I had heard so much about Bonaire, the “Diver’s Paradise,” and finally got to experience it for myself. It’s a place that truly lives up to its reputation, not just underwater but on land too. One of the most striking things about Bonaire is its commitment to conservation, both of its incredible reefs and its unique wildlife.
Exploring Bonaire’s underwater world
Diving at Small Wall
One of my absolute favorite dive sites was Small Wall, located right in front of the Black Durgon Inn. It’s a popular spot for boat dives, and it’s easy to see why. The reef drops down to about 33 meters, and you can drift along at around 18 meters, surrounded by so much marine life. It felt like swimming through a living aquarium.
During one dive here, I was lucky enough to be part of a special underwater ceremony honoring a true pioneer of diving. It was a deeply moving experience to witness such recognition for someone who has dedicated so much to marine conservation. A small green sea turtle even joined us, as if to witness the occasion.
Conservation efforts
It’s inspiring to know that anchoring is forbidden on Bonaire. This simple rule, established by the island’s early diving pioneers, is crucial for protecting the coral. Seeing this dedication firsthand makes you appreciate the pristine condition of the reefs even more.
I received a special medal during my visit, awarded for contributions to marine conservation. It was designed for an international poster contest for youth, established many years ago to highlight marine conservation issues. It’s an honor to join a list of recipients that includes legendary figures in the diving world.
Land-based adventures and unique encounters
Black Durgon Inn
My stay at the Black Durgon Inn was a highlight. This place has a really special atmosphere, and it’s clear why it has a 95% return guest rate. It feels like stepping back in time to the “Old Bonaire,” a more relaxed and less commercial version of the island. Eating breakfast with feet propped up, facing the water, felt so peaceful.
The inn has been run with Captain Don Stewart’s original methods in mind, focusing on a non-commercial, authentic experience. It’s wonderful to know that this legacy will continue with Al’s family, including his daughter Rona and his grandchildren, ensuring the same ambiance for generations to come.
Saving Bonaire’s donkeys
Beyond the diving, Bonaire’s commitment to its wild donkey population was fascinating. Al Catalfumo, a diving pioneer and owner of the Black Durgon Inn, is a passionate advocate for these animals. He’s dedicated to protecting the historic Bonairian Nubian donkeys, which have been on the island for about 500 years, brought over by the Spanish.
These donkeys were traditionally used for transport and helped clear dry undergrowth, preventing fires. Now, they face a threat from plans to eliminate them by 2030, which Al and the Bonaire Donkey Protection League are actively fighting. It’s a stark reminder of the challenges conservation faces, even on a protected island.
Spending time observing these gentle creatures was a memorable part of my visit. It’s important to remember that Bonaire’s appeal isn’t just underwater; its terrestrial wildlife also holds significant value for visitors.
What can I expect from the donkeys
You’ll often see these inquisitive donkeys wandering freely. They are generally docile and have become a recognized part of Bonaire’s landscape.
Their presence contributes to the island’s unique character. It’s a chance to see a piece of Bonaire’s living history up close.
Diving history and legacy
Pioneering spirits of Bonaire
Bonaire’s reputation as a diving mecca was built by dedicated individuals. Captain Don Stewart, who established Bonaire’s dive operations, and Al Catalfumo are two such figures. It’s incredible to think about the adventures they embarked on to make Bonaire the diving destination it is today.
I had the chance to learn about Al’s early days, from his childhood in Brooklyn to his time in the army and his first dive shop in New Jersey. His journey eventually led him to Bonaire, where he became a crucial figure in shaping its dive tourism.
Captain Don’s Habitat and Bonaire Tours
When the dive operation at Hotel Bonaire needed a new operator, Al was instrumental in stepping up. He founded Bonaire Tours and became a major wholesaler for ALM Airlines, significantly boosting visitor numbers to the island.
Later, in 1980, Al, along with partners Ady Evertz and Eddy Statia, opened Bonaire Scuba Centre. This was a significant step in developing the island’s diving infrastructure, handling a large number of divers weekly even back then.
The “Old Bonaire” experience
Al’s decision to purchase the property that is now Black Durgon Inn in 1982 was a deliberate one. He aimed to maintain a small, non-commercial operation that honored Captain Don’s methods and preserved the essence of “Old Bonaire.”
This commitment to authenticity is what draws so many visitors back. It’s a rare find in today’s travel landscape, offering a genuine connection to the island’s past and its natural beauty.
What is Bonaire like today
Bonaire continues to be a premier diving destination, with license plates still proudly proclaiming “Bonaire Divers Paradise.” The underwater reefs remain pristine, carefully protected for economic and ecological survival.
The island has seen growth with an influx of expatriates, adding to its population of just over 20,000 residents. As international travel restrictions ease, divers are returning to enjoy the island’s relaxed lifestyle and natural beauty, both above and below the water.
Family connections and future of diving
Generational legacies
It’s heartwarming to see how Bonaire’s legacy is being passed down through families. Al’s daughter, Rona, plays a significant role in managing the Black Durgon Inn.
I was touched to hear Rona share her first diving experience at age 10, right off the porch of Hotel Bonaire with one of the island’s first dive guides. It speaks to the enduring magic of this island.
Future divers
The continuity of this passion is evident with Al’s granddaughter, Eloise, now also 10 years old. It’s clear she will soon be exploring the underwater world with her grandfather, continuing the family’s profound connection to Bonaire.
This commitment from the people and the dedication of divers like Al and his family are what has preserved Bonaire’s natural wonders for everyone to enjoy.
My visit to Bonaire was more than just a diving trip; it was an immersion into a culture that deeply values its natural heritage. I left with a profound appreciation for the conservation efforts and the enduring spirit of this unique Caribbean island.