You can find yourself standing on the edge of a cliff, about 25 feet above clear, turquoise water, thinking about what it means to “just do.” Bonaire offers these kinds of moments. It’s the “B” in the ABC islands, south of Aruba and Curaçao, and it’s more about the outdoors than typical tourist spots. With about 20,000 residents spread between the capital, Kralendijk, and the older Rincon, a large part of the island is protected by Washington-Slagbaai National Park, home to dramatic landscapes and breathtaking views.
Explore Washington-Slagbaai National Park
One incredible spot is Boka Slagbaai bay. The trail leading to a cliff overlooking it is lined with cacti and could easily feel like a desert, but the sounds of the ocean and the sights of iguanas and flamingos grazing in salt pans make it distinctly Caribbean. The park itself is vast and offers trails, such as the hike up Mount Brandaris, the island’s highest peak. You can also find hidden coves like Boka Kokolishi, perfect for wading in the tide pools. It’s a place where rugged terrain meets the sea, with mountain goats climbing hillsides and ocean geysers erupting.
Experience Bonaire’s Marine Life
The waters surrounding Bonaire are a protected marine park, stretching out nearly a thousand feet from the shore. This underwater realm is teeming with life, boasting 470 species of fish and 60 types of coral. Its ease of access has earned Bonaire the title of “shore diving capital of the world.” You can simply walk into the water from many points along the coast to begin exploring. This hasn’t happened by accident; a Californian named Captain Don Stewart recognized the reef’s value early on. In 1962, he stopped for repairs and was so moved by the underwater beauty that he stayed. He championed the protection of the reefs, leading to the installation of moorings to prevent anchor damage and the banning of spearfishing. His efforts culminated in the creation of the Bonaire National Marine Park in 1979. Today, all divers must complete a reef preservation course and pay a $25 nature fee to enter the park’s waters.
Diving and Snorkeling Adventures
Captain Don’s legacy lives on at Captain Don’s Habitat, a popular PADI resort he founded in 1976. It offers certification and specialty courses, with access to over 50 dive sites via custom boats. For those who prefer to stay closer to land, you can get equipment from a dive shop and head to spots like the famous 1,000 Steps, which actually has fewer than 70 steps leading down to the water, or the Oil Slick, where you can step directly off a small cliff into the sea. Even if you don’t dive, snorkeling offers a wonderful way to see the colorful fish and coral just below the surface.
Other Resorts
Beyond Captain Don’s Habitat, you’ll find other accommodations like and Grand Windsock. For a more budget-friendly option, there’s the Caribbean Club. If luxury is what you seek, Harbour Village offers a private beach, a rare find on the island. These resorts provide various amenities, but the island’s incredible underwater world is accessible to most visitors, regardless of where they stay.
Embrace the Island Winds
Bonaire’s consistent trade winds are not just ideal for sailboats but also for a variety of wind-powered sports. Lac Bay is a popular spot for windsurfing lessons, with champions sharing their expertise. The Frans Brothers, featured in the documentary “Children of the Wind,” run a windsurfing school and wing foil center on Sorobon Bay. Elton “Taty” Frans, one of the brothers, even holds a record for the fastest windsurfing journey from Bonaire to Curaçao. If you prefer a more relaxed pace while still enjoying the wind, Jibe City offers rentals, classes, and comfortable seating areas to simply watch the action or relax in a hammock.
Kiteboarding and Landsailing
Kiteboarding is another exciting activity, with opportunities at Atlantis Beach through schools like Kiteboarding Bonaire and Bonaire Kiteschool. For a unique land-based adventure, Bonaire is the only Caribbean island where you can try landsailing. Using a Blokart, a New Zealand-designed wind-powered vehicle, you can race around a track dotted with cacti. It’s an exhilarating way to experience the island’s breezes, just remember to watch out for the occasional iguana crossing your path.
Discover Underground Wonders
Bonaire’s geology is a fascinating blend of volcanic rock and limestone karst, creating a landscape riddled with caves. There are over 400 caves across the island, with many protected by the Bonaire Caves & Karst Nature Reserve. While most require a guide, a few are accessible for exploration. Companies like Go Caving Bonaire and Caves Tour Bonaire offer guided tours into these subterranean worlds. You might find yourself rappelling into dry caves with intricate formations or entering wet caves to discover clear pools, stalactites, stalagmites, and even actual bats. It’s a stark contrast to the arid surface, offering a glimpse into a hidden, ancient environment.
Delve into Cultural History
The island’s cultural heritage is rich, a blend of Indigenous Arawak roots and influences from Dutch and African traditions. The Caiquetios were the original inhabitants, but the Spanish and later the Dutch profoundly shaped its history. The Dutch arrived in 1636 primarily for salt, a vital commodity for preserving herring. Today, the iconic pink salt flats, marked by massive white salt pyramids, remain a striking feature in the south of the island, part of one of the Caribbean’s largest solar salt facilities. Samples of salt crystals are available for tasting at the flats.
Remnants of the Past
In the late 1600s, the Dutch implemented the slave trade to work the salt flats. Near the salt pans, you can see nearly identical square white houses, built from coral stone around 1850. These were once shelters for enslaved people brought from West Africa. Their homes were typically inland in Rincon, but these structures allowed for extended work periods at the flats. Slavery was abolished in the Dutch Antilles in 1863. Until then, Bonaire operated as a large plantation. In Kralendijk, historical walking tours can guide you past Dutch colonial buildings like the Protestant church and Wilhelmina Park, named in honor of the Netherlands’ Queen Wilhelmina.
Mangazina di Rei
To truly understand the island’s cultural history and the contributions of those who toiled the land, visit the Mangazina di Rei in Rincon. Once a government building used to store rations for the enslaved, it now serves as a museum. It showcases the island’s agricultural and geological makeup and efforts to preserve its culture. The center hosts monthly “Nos Ziljea” festivities, celebrating local crafts, agriculture, music, and food. You can sample traditional dishes like Funchi, goat curry, and even iguana stew. From February to May, you might catch Simadan events, harvest festivals featuring traditional music and dance, culminating in the Dia di Rincon celebration on April 30.
Encounter Island Wildlife
A cruise around Bonaire, whether by car or on foot, often leads to wildlife encounters. You’ll frequently see iguanas, waterfowl, caracaras, and parrots. The island is also home to wild goats. Flamingos, their distinctive pink hue mirroring the salt flats, are a common sight, often seen feeding on shrimp in the briny waters. Bonaire Wild Bird Rehab is a sanctuary dedicated to these elegant birds, and it’s said that flamingos outnumber the human population.
Donkey Sanctuary Bonaire
Donkeys, first introduced by the Spanish in the 1500s, now roam freely across the island, with an estimated population of around 1,100. Donkey Sanctuary Bonaire provides a haven for donkeys that are injured or orphaned. Approximately 750 animals receive care here from volunteers, offering them food, shelter, and medical attention for the rest of their lives. Visitors can take a self-guided safari through the sanctuary, using a car, golf cart, or scooter. Purchasing grass pellets will likely result in a lively swarm of donkeys eager for a treat. You can even sponsor or “adopt” a donkey from afar, or watch their daily activities via livestream.
Experience Bonaire’s Nightlife
While Bonaire is known for its daytime adventures, its nightlife offers a growing scene. Live music can be found at places like Little Havana, and salsa parties often happen at Cuba Compagnie. For cocktails with a view, head to Karel’s Beach Bar in Kralendijk, or enjoy more upscale dining at restaurants like Sebastian’s or Ingridiënts at Buddy Dive. Rum Runners at Captain Don’s Habitat is another favorite, especially for sunset drinks. For a truly memorable evening, consider a sunset dinner cruise aboard a wooden schooner from Melisa Sailing.
Craft Cocktails and Music
For expertly crafted cocktails, Tiki & Co. is a must-visit. The owner, Eddy Trenidad, offers a range of well-balanced drinks, often presented with a flair for theatrics. Be prepared for potent concoctions, like the “Sorobon Zombie,” which can be quite a memorable experience. The bar provides a lively atmosphere to cap off an evening after a day of exploring the island’s natural beauty and cultural sites.
Bonaire offers a unique blend of natural wonders and rich history, providing a different kind of Caribbean experience. It’s a place where you can truly connect with the environment and delve into local culture, making it a memorable destination for any traveler.