If you’re looking for an island that’s more about what’s underwater than the sandy beaches you might imagine, Bonaire is your spot. Forget lush jungles; this Dutch municipality offers a stark, beautiful landscape with its divi divi trees, thorny bushes, and cacti. The real magic happens beneath the waves, where an incredible reef system, stretching all 111 square miles of the island itself, rivals the Great Barrier Reef. I’ve visited this diving paradise many times, most recently before travel restrictions began to impact the world. As of my last visit, Bonaire had managed to avoid any confirmed COVID-19 cases, a testament to its swift border control measures, though it came at a significant economic cost for its tourism-dependent population. Even with the cost, the allure of its underwater world is undeniable.
Shore Diving Paradise
Bonaire truly shines as a haven for shore divers. My dive buddies and I completed 38 shore dives over a 12-day trip, a clear indicator of how accessible and rewarding this type of diving is here. You set your own pace and pick your own sites, which is fantastic when you have young children like Lily and Ethan. With shore diving, you aren’t rushed by the slowest diver in a group. The reef is often just a short swim from the shore, allowing for seventy minutes of incredible exploration on your own schedule. It’s a freedom you can’t get on every dive trip.
Entry and exit points for shore dives can be a bit challenging, as most aren’t sandy beaches but rather rocky coral formations. While the west side of the island, known as the lee side, usually has calm waters, you still need to be mindful of the surge, which can make getting in and out a bit of a tumble sometimes. But the effort is absolutely worth it for the unspoiled beauty you encounter.
Exploring the Bonaire Marine National Park
The entire aquatic ecosystem surrounding Bonaire and the islet of Klein Bonaire is protected as the Bonaire Marine National Park, a designation since 1975. To dive here, you must purchase a $45 park stamp, which directly contributes to the preservation of this vital marine environment. Park rangers are vigilant, ensuring everyone adheres to the rules designed to keep the reef pristine. You’ll notice that boats don’t use anchors, which can damage the coral; instead, they tie off to buoys. Divers are also strictly forbidden from wearing gloves, carrying knives, spearfishing, or touching the reef in any way.
I learned this firsthand one windy afternoon when the visibility was poor. While trying to photograph a drum fish near the Invisibles dive site, I inadvertently kicked the reef with my fins multiple times. Suddenly, I was pulled back and found a divemaster behind me, shaking his finger in a clear “no-no” gesture. While initially annoyed at being interrupted, I quickly understood. This commitment to protecting the reef is precisely why Bonaire’s underwater world remains so spectacular, despite challenges like coral bleaching from rising water temperatures related to climate change. The community here feels a deep responsibility, and they’re unafraid to enforce it.
Abundant Marine Life
The reef is teeming with hundreds of species of fish, from the vibrant queen angelfish and French grunts to the more elusive spotted trunkfish and frogfish. You’ll see sea turtles gracefully gliding by, neon-bright squid, and a variety of eels. Keep an eye out for seahorses and majestic eagle rays. Sharks are rare, though whale sharks do visit the region in early spring, a truly spectacular sight if you’re lucky enough to be there. Even the resorts often have their own resident marine life; Buddy Dive has a tarpon named “Charlie” who frequently accompanies night divers, a surprising encounter when a 5-foot fish swims between your legs in the dark!
Beyond the Dive Sites
While Bonaire is predominantly known for its diving and snorkeling, there are other historical and natural points of interest. On the southern end of the island, you can see small mud huts, a somber reminder of the island’s past as a stop for slavers. Centuries ago, donkeys were introduced to help with salt and aloe harvesting, and their descendants now roam freely, much like sacred cows. There’s even a protected donkey sanctuary inland, a worthwhile visit on this compact island that measures only about 24 miles long.
If you’re looking for some evening entertainment, Bonaire has a casino. I haven’t personally visited, but it’s an option. The island also boasts a good collection of restaurants offering diverse cuisines, from Argentinean steakhouses to authentic French bistros. One notable eatery, Pasa Bon Pizza, has the island’s only traffic light, which is purely for decoration. Instead, Bonaire’s main intersections are managed by European-style roundabouts. Don’t be shy in them, but be aware that locals tend to merge with very little space – surprisingly, I’ve never witnessed a traffic accident here in all my visits.
A Need for Island Exploration
What activities are there besides diving
While diving is the main draw, there are definitely other things to explore. You can visit the historical salt pans and the slave huts on the southern tip of the island. It’s a poignant historical site that offers a different perspective on Bonaire’s past. The wild donkeys roaming the arid landscape are also a unique sight. For a bit of local flavor, you can find good restaurants showcasing international cuisine and boutique shops for souvenirs.
The island’s driveability itself is part of the experience. With its unique roundabout system and surprisingly efficient traffic flow, exploring by car is straightforward. We found that renting a small truck made it easy to access various shore diving spots and also gave us the freedom to take the kids on little excursions to see the donkeys or stop for a casual lunch at a local eatery. Even a simple drive can reveal the rugged beauty of the island.
Preserving Bonaire’s Future
The forced pause in tourism due to the global pandemic, while economically challenging, offers a unique opportunity for Bonaire’s fragile ecosystem. This enforced “rest” from the constant influx of divers could be a significant boon for the reef’s recovery. As I plan my next visit for 2026, I’m hopeful that the conservation efforts, combined with this period of reduced human impact, will ensure Bonaire’s underwater wonders continue to thrive for generations to come. It’s a place that truly captures your heart, both above and below the water.
I truly hope you get to experience Bonaire for yourself soon.