Beyond Tourism: Understanding the Challenges and Resilience of Maldivian Communities

The Maldives economy leans heavily on tourism — tourism accounts for up to 18.7% of gross domestic product, according to the Maldives Bureau of Statistics. That single-sector dependence creates real vulnerability, something the pandemic made painfully clear. But on the islands of Horsburgh Atoll, a different story is unfolding — one where local communities are building a tourism model that puts their own priorities first.

This article looks at how the Horsburgh Atoll Tourism Alliance (HATA) is reshaping what tourism means for Maldivian communities. You’ll learn how the traditional resort model left most islanders out, what community-owned tourism looks like in practice, and why this shift matters for anyone who travels here.

How the Maldives tourism model left communities behind

Since the 1970s, the Maldives has operated on a “one island, one resort” model that targets foreign operators and luxury travellers.

Resorts still dominate, accounting for more than 71% of total bed capacity in 2020. A 2015 World Bank report noted that this model lacks inclusivity and threatens social, environmental, and fiscal sustainability because the benefits of tourism are not shared equally. Guesthouse tourism, introduced in 2009, now accounts for 19% of bed capacity with 638 registered guesthouses, mainly on local inhabited islands. These small, family-owned accommodations offer culturally immersive experiences and channel more money directly into local economies.

What I’d do: Skip the resort-only itinerary and spend at least a couple of nights on a local island. The difference in how your money moves through the community is substantial.

Horsburgh Atoll: Where community-led tourism is taking shape

The Horsburgh Atoll, also known as Goidhoo Atoll, sits within Baa Atoll — a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve recognised in 2011 for its exceptional natural value.

The atoll includes three inhabited islands: Goidhoo (population roughly 835), Fehendhoo (around 318), and Fulhadhoo (about 391). Goidhoo thrives on agriculture — watermelon farming, fishing, rope making, and thatch weaving — while Fehendhoo and Fulhadhoo rely mainly on fisheries. The tourism economy here is growing, with 17 registered guesthouses and a rising number of restaurants and tour operators.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, the Maldivian government allowed foreign resort owners to accept tourists but indefinitely delayed reopening local guesthouses. Tourism business owners in Horsburgh Atoll organised. When the Ministry of Tourism permitted a slow reopening starting October 15, 2020, the informal coalition — now called the Horsburgh Atoll Tourism Alliance (HATA) — saw smaller communities reopening while theirs remained closed. They fought for and won the right to reopen.

Following their victory, HATA set their sights on developing a tourism model that prioritises community resilience and environmental stewardship. In January 2023, the USAID Climate Adaptation Project and Solimar International began supporting this initiative. Together, they produced a Sustainable Tourism Destination Management Plan covering mangrove restoration, visitor education campaigns, and strategies to ensure tourism contributes positively to both natural resource preservation and community well-being.

What I’d do: If you’re interested in community tourism, base yourself on one of the Horsburgh Atoll islands. The guesthouses are locally owned, and your stay directly supports the cooperative model.

Practical planning for community-based travel in the Maldives

Travelling to local islands requires a different approach than booking a resort. Here’s what to expect.

Getting there and getting around

Reaching local islands typically involves a domestic flight or speedboat transfer from Malé. Horsburgh Atoll is accessible via Baa Atoll connections. Once there, walking is the main mode of transport — islands are small. Guesthouse owners often arrange transfers and excursions.

Best time to visit

The dry season (November to April) offers the most reliable weather for island-hopping and water activities. The wet season (May to October) brings stronger winds and more rain, but also fewer tourists and lower prices. Either way, pack for humidity and sudden showers.

What I’d do: Travel during shoulder months (November or April) for decent weather and smaller crowds. Book guesthouse transfers in advance — they’re not as frequent as resort speedboats.

On the ground: What to know before you go

Staying on a local island means adapting to a different rhythm. Here’s what that looks like in practice.

Cultural expectations and dress code

The Maldives is a Muslim country. On local islands, modest dress is expected outside your guesthouse — shoulders and knees covered. Bikinis are fine on resort islands or designated “bikini beaches,” but not on public beaches. Locals in Horsburgh Atoll have discussed challenges in educating guests about Muslim beliefs and appropriate dress, which can lead to cultural friction. HATA has created a common forum to address these issues with the community.

Food and daily life

Guesthouse meals are typically family-style and feature local staples: fresh fish, coconut, rice, and curries. Don’t expect resort buffets. Meals are served at set times, and options may be limited. It’s a good idea to carry snacks, especially if you have kids — Lily and Ethan found the gap between lunch and dinner longer than they were used to, so we started keeping dried fruit and crackers in the room.

Packing essentials for local islands

Beyond the usual tropical gear, a few items make a real difference. A reef-safe mineral sunscreen protects both your skin and the coral. A waterproof dry bag is essential for boat transfers — spray can soak everything in seconds. A quick-dry travel towel is useful since guesthouse laundry services are limited. And a reusable insulated water bottle helps cut down on plastic waste while keeping water cool in the heat.

What I’d do: Pack light but smart. A sarong, reef-safe sunscreen, and a dry bag cover most of the practical gaps between resort and local-island travel.

Frequently asked questions about community tourism in the Maldives

Can I drink alcohol on local islands in the Maldives?

No. Alcohol is not permitted on local inhabited islands, which are Muslim communities. Resorts and liveaboard vessels serve alcohol, but guesthouses on local islands do not. If a drink with dinner matters to you, a resort or safari boat is the better option.

Is it safe to stay on a local island with children?

Yes, generally. Local islands are quiet and family-oriented. The main adjustment is the lack of resort-style amenities — no kids’ clubs, limited dining hours, and fewer organised activities. Ethan spent most of his time chasing hermit crabs on the beach, which he loved, but we had to plan our own entertainment.

How do I get from Malé to Horsburgh Atoll?

You’ll fly from Malé to Dharavandhoo Airport in Baa Atoll, then take a speedboat to your guesthouse island. Guesthouse owners typically arrange the full transfer. It’s less frequent and less predictable than resort speedboats, so build in buffer time.

What’s the biggest downside of community-based tourism here?

Infrastructure strain. Local islands often lack fresh water and waste management systems. More visitors mean more pressure on these resources. The tradeoff is real: your stay directly supports local families, but you’re also contributing to resource demand that the islands weren’t designed to handle.

Do I need to speak Dhivehi to visit local islands?

Not at all. English is widely spoken in guesthouses and tour operations. Learning a few words — like shukuriyaa (thank you) — goes a long way, but it’s not necessary for a smooth visit.

Beyond the resort bubble

The Horsburgh Atoll Tourism Alliance proves that Maldivian communities don’t have to be bystanders in their own tourism industry. The cooperative model gives residents voting rights and dividends, and the Sustainable Tourism Destination Management Plan addresses real problems — mangrove restoration, visitor education, cultural friction — that resorts rarely touch. It’s not a perfect system, and the challenges of water scarcity and waste management aren’t going away. But for travellers willing to trade infinity pools for something less polished, this is where the story of the Maldives gets more interesting. Read more about how Maldivian cultural heritage is being preserved alongside tourism development.

Sources and further reading

Tourism Resilience in Small Island Economies: The Case of the Maldives. MDPI, 2025.

Pioneering Community-Owned Tourism in the Maldives. Destination Stewardship Center, 2024.