Hawaiian saying holds that when you give a lei, you weave your own mana — spiritual energy and intention — into every stitch and flower. The garland isn’t decoration; it’s a physical extension of the giver’s feelings, carried around the neck of the recipient. But the lei you buy at a hotel gift shop, mass-produced overseas with plastic blooms, shares little with that tradition beyond the shape. Lei Day, celebrated every May 1 across the Hawaiian Islands, was created in 1927 specifically to push back against that kind of cultural drift.
Plastic imitation lei mass-produced overseas detaches the garland from its cultural and spiritual significance — a problem Lei Day was designed to address.
The holiday was first proposed by Don Blanding, an author and poet in Honolulu, and officially established in 1927, with the first formal celebration taking place in 1928 in downtown Honolulu. Grace Tower Warren suggested the May 1 date and coined the phrase “May Day is Lei Day in Hawaiʻi.” The Hawaiʻi Legislature made it official in 1929. The goal was to preserve Native Hawaiian identity and traditions during a period of rapid modernization and tourism growth. Ninety-seven years later, the question remains: when a practice becomes a symbol for visitors, what happens to the practice itself?
Yes, leis represent love, honor, welcome, and celebration — but they’re not a single thing. The meaning shifts depending on the material, the technique, the occasion, and who makes it. Understanding those differences matters more than knowing the “correct” way to wear one.
The eight major Hawaiian islands each have a representative flower and color — a system that emerged alongside Lei Day itself. Oʻahu uses the yellow ʻilima; Hawaiʻi Island claims the red lehua; Maui the pink lokelani rose; Kauaʻi the green-and-purple mokihana berry; Molokaʻi the white pua kukui; Lānaʻi the yellow-orange kaunaʻoa; Niʻihau the white pūpū shell; and Kahoʻolawe the silver-gray hinahina. These pairings are taught in schools, worn at graduation, and featured in the annual Lei Day Court, where a queen and royal court represent each island.
The eight island flowers and colors, established alongside Lei Day, reflect regional identity as much as botanical availability.
| Island | Representative Flower/Material | Color | Primary Occasion | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oʻahu | ʻIlilma | Yellow-orange | Welcomes, graduations | Small, delicate petals; time-intensive to string |
| Hawaiʻi Island | Pua lehua | Red | Celebrations, ceremonies | Associated with Pele, volcano goddess |
| Maui | Lokelani rose | Pink | Romantic occasions | Non-native but naturalized in upcountry Maui |
| Kauaʻi | Mokihana berry | Green, purple | Formal events | Fragrant, leathery texture; only grows on Kauaʻi |
| Molokaʻi | Pua kukui | White | Peace offerings | From the candlenut tree, also used for light oil |
| Lānaʻi | Kaunaʻoa | Yellow-orange | Weddings | A native vine, parasitic on other plants |
| Niʻihau | Pūpū shell | White | Heirloom gifts | Shells collected from Niʻihau beaches; no fresh flowers |
| Kahoʻolawe | Hinahina | Silver-gray | Commemoration, restoration | Uninhabited island; used symbolically in Lei Day Court |
But the island-flower system, while beloved, is a 20th-century innovation layered onto a much older tradition. Leis in various forms — made from flowers, leaves, seeds, shells, feathers, and even greenstone — existed long before Lei Day, brought by the same Polynesian voyagers who first settled the islands. Ancient leis served as peace offerings between tribes and were worn by aliʻi (chiefs) to signify status and divine connection. That’s a different weight than a graduation lei, though both carry the same word.
From ancient practice to modern holiday
Lei making dates back to the earliest Polynesian settlements in Hawaiʻi, but the written record of specific techniques comes largely from the 19th and 20th centuries. Kamehameha Schools describe over a dozen distinct methods, including hili (braiding), haku (weaving), kui (piercing and stringing), wili (twisting), and hilo (twisting two strands together). Each stitch carries intention — the maker’s mana is literally woven into the piece. That’s not metaphor; it’s the stated belief of many practitioners, and it explains why giving a lei is never casual.
Traditional lei makers use only natural, biodegradable materials — flowers, leaves, seeds, shells, or feathers. Plumeria, orchids, pikake (jasmine), maile leaves, and mokihana berries are among the most common. Seasonality matters; some flowers are available only during certain months.
The method determines the lei’s appearance and durability. Kui (stringing) is the simplest for beginners. Haku (weaving) creates a flat, braided band. Wili (twisting) produces a dense, spiral effect. The choice depends on the material and the occasion.
Practitioners say the maker’s thoughts and emotions enter the lei during construction. This is why a lei given in anger or haste is considered spiritually different from one made with care. The final stitch often includes a silent prayer or blessing.
The giver places the lei gently over the recipient’s shoulders and around the neck. The recipient should not remove it in the giver’s presence — doing so signals rejection of the affection and mana woven into it.
Lei Day itself grew out of anxiety about cultural loss. By the 1920s, tourism was reshaping Honolulu, and Native Hawaiian traditions were being commercialized or abandoned. Don Blanding and Grace Tower Warren saw the holiday as a way to recenter Hawaiian identity through a practice that visitors could also participate in — but on Hawaiian terms. The first Lei Day celebration in 1928 included a lei contest, hula performances, and a court. The 2026 theme, Mai ka hoʻokuʻi i ka hālāwai (from zenith to horizon), connects to Polynesian voyaging tradition, a deliberate nod to the deeper roots of the practice.
Materials, meanings, and regional variation
Not all leis are made of flowers. The pūpū shell leis of Niʻihau are among the most prized — strung from tiny shells collected on the beaches of the Forbidden Island, they can take months to complete and are often passed down as heirlooms. Feather leis, once reserved for aliʻi, use the bright yellow feathers of the ʻōʻō bird (now extinct) or the red feathers of the ʻiʻiwi. Maile leaves, braided into a fragrant green lei, are used at weddings and formal ceremonies as a symbol of respect and honor. Pikake (jasmine) signifies romantic love. Each material carries its own register.
If you’re buying a lei on Oʻahu, visit the lei stands at Honolulu International Airport or the Neal S. Blaisdell Center on Lei Day. Ask the maker what flowers they used and why. Most will explain the meaning behind their choices — and that conversation is part of the experience.
Regional variation isn’t just about island flowers. On the Big Island, lehua blossoms are associated with Pele, the volcano goddess, and are sometimes avoided during certain ceremonies. On Maui, the lokelani rose — a non-native flower naturalized in upcountry farms — has become a symbol of the island’s plantation-era history. On Niʻihau, where no fresh flowers grow in abundance, the shell lei tradition developed out of necessity. These differences matter, and they’re often invisible to visitors who see only “a Hawaiian lei.”
Still debated: whether the island-flower system was a Lei Day invention or a codification of existing regional preferences. The available evidence points to the former — the system appears to have been formalized alongside the holiday in the late 1920s — but some practitioners argue it reflects older, unwritten traditions. The question may never be fully resolved, and both positions have sincere advocates.
Context and comparison: Leis across the Polynesian triangle
The Hawaiian lei is not an isolated tradition. Similar garlands appear throughout Polynesia: the hei in Tahiti and the Cook Islands, ula in Samoa, kahoa in Tonga, salusalu in Fiji, and lei (cognate) in Aotearoa New Zealand. Each carries its own protocols, materials, and meanings. Comparing them reveals both shared roots and distinct evolutions.
| Region | Garland name | Common materials | Primary occasions | Notable difference from Hawaiian lei |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tahiti / Cook Islands | Hei | Tiare (gardenia), frangipani, coconut fronds | Welcomes, dance performances, tourism | Often worn as head garlands (hei poʻo) more than neck |
| Samoa | Ula | Seeds, shells, feathers, dried berries | Formal ceremonies, chiefly titles, church | More often strung as necklaces than woven; less flower-based |
| Tonga | Kahoa | Feathers, shells, pandanus, flowers | Weddings, funerals, royal occasions | Feather kahoa were historically reserved for royalty |
| Fiji | Salusalu | Flowers, leaves, masi (bark cloth) strips | Welcomes, farewells, ceremonies | Often longer and heavier, worn over both shoulders |
| Aotearoa (Māori) | Lei / Rei | Greenstone (pounamu), bone, shells, feathers | Heirloom gifts, status markers, ceremonial | Not typically fresh flowers; carved pendants or woven |
| Hawaiʻi | Lei | Fresh flowers, leaves, seeds, shells, feathers | Welcomes, graduations, weddings, Lei Day, daily wear | Strongest association with tourism and Lei Day holiday |
The most common outsider misconception is that a lei is simply a “flower necklace” — a souvenir or costume accessory. In Hawaiian culture, the lei is a deliberate, personal gift that carries the giver’s mana. Mass-produced plastic leis sold at party supply stores actively undermine this tradition. If you’re attending a luau or event, ask whether the lei you’re given is fresh and locally made. That distinction matters to many practitioners.
One point of connection across the Polynesian triangle: the garland is almost never self-given. You do not buy yourself a lei. You receive it from someone else, and that act of giving is what completes the gesture. This is consistent from Tahiti to Tonga to Hawaiʻi, though in practice, airport lei stands and tourist shops have blurred the line for visitors.
- Leis carry the giver’s mana (spiritual energy) — the act of making is as significant as the act of giving.
- The eight island flowers are a 20th-century system, not an ancient tradition, but they’re taught and treated as canon today.
- Never refuse a lei, never remove it in front of the giver, and return wilted natural leis to the earth — not the trash.
- Hawaiian leis share roots with garlands across Polynesia, but each region has distinct protocols and materials.
Common questions about leis and their meaning
Can anyone wear a lei, or is it only for Hawaiians?
Leis are frequently given to visitors as a sign of welcome. Non-Hawaiians can wear them, and doing so is generally seen as a sign of respect if the recipient understands the tradition. The issue is not who wears it, but how it’s treated. Wearing a lei as a costume or discarding it carelessly is what draws criticism, not the wearing itself.
What does it mean if a lei is closed versus open-ended?
According to Hawaiian custom, a closed (tied) lei should not be given to a pregnant woman, as it is believed to symbolize a closed path or difficult birth. An open-ended lei is preferred. This is a specific belief, not universal, but it’s widely observed among practitioners who follow traditional protocols. The distinction is taken seriously enough that lei makers often ask about the recipient before choosing the style.
What should I do with a lei after it wilts?
Return natural lei to the earth. Hang it on a tree, bury it in a garden, or return the flowers to the ocean. Remove any strings, wire, or non-biodegradable materials first. Never throw a lei in the trash — that is considered deeply disrespectful, as it discards the mana woven into the garland.
Is it okay to refuse a lei if I’m allergic to flowers?
Refusing a lei is traditionally seen as rejecting the person’s affection and respect. If you’re allergic, accept the lei, thank the giver, and explain the situation briefly. Most people will understand. You can then place the lei somewhere visible — on a table, a hook, or a door — rather than wearing it. The key is to honor the gesture, not the material.
Why do some leis cost hundreds of dollars?
Niʻihau shell leis can take months to create and are considered heirloom pieces. Feather leis using rare or historically significant feathers are similarly valuable. The price reflects labor, material scarcity, and cultural significance — not a tourist markup. A fresh flower lei from a local florist, by contrast, costs $10–$30 and is meant to be worn and returned to the earth within a few days.
What Lei Day reveals about cultural continuity
Lei Day was invented in 1927 as a defensive measure — a way to keep a tradition alive while the islands were being reshaped by tourism and outside influence. Nearly a century later, it’s become one of the most visible expressions of Hawaiian culture, celebrated in schools, parks, and community centers across the state. That success raises its own questions: when a practice becomes a public holiday, does it belong to everyone, or does it still belong to the community that created it? The answer, for now, is both — and that tension is what keeps the tradition alive rather than frozen. For a deeper look at how Hawaiian culture has adapted and persisted, see our guide to navigating Hawaiian protocol and respecting local customs.
Sources and further reading
Remitly. “Lei Day: Meaning, Traditions, and the Spirit of Aloha.” 2024. 🔗
Polynesian Cultural Center. “Lei Day in Hawaiʻi.” 2025. 🔗
This Week Hawaii. “Hawaii Culture & History: Lei Making.” 2024. 🔗
NPIFund. “Hawaiian Leis: Flowers, Customs, and Respect.” 2023. 🔗
Related reading on IslandHopperGuides
The Rich Traditions of Hawaiian Hula Dance — Leis and hula are closely connected; this guide explores how lei poʻo (head leis) feature in dance performance.
ʻOhana: The Heart of Hawaiian Culture and Its Enduring Values — The concept of family and community that underpins the act of giving a lei.
Celebrating Tradition: How Mele (Chants) Connect Us — Chants often accompany lei-giving ceremonies; learn about the oral traditions that frame the practice.
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