Curieuse Island sits just off the north coast of Praslin, a speck of granitic land that the Seychelles Parks and Gardens Authority (SPGA) has been quietly counting tortoises on since the late 1970s. The second round of the Giant Aldabra Tortoise census on Curieuse in 2023 identified only 86 free-roaming individuals across Baie Laraie, Anse Papaie and Grand Anse, a far cry from the 250 originally introduced between 1978 and 1982. What happened to the rest — and whether the island can sustain a stable population — is a more complicated story than most day-trippers realise.
Between 1978 and 1982, 250 Aldabran giant tortoises were released on Curieuse. By 1990, only 117 remained.
This article covers the real state of Curieuse’s tortoise population, the history of the island as a leper colony, the walk to the Doctor’s House, and the practical logistics of a day trip from Praslin. It also explains why the so-called “Curieuse Experiment” — the original reintroduction — is considered by conservation biologists to have largely failed, and what that means for visitors who come expecting a tortoise sanctuary.
Curieuse is worth a half-day visit for its mangrove trail and the Doctor’s House, but the tortoise encounter is less reliable than advertised. The free-roaming population has never recovered from poaching and rat predation, and the SPGA nursery — where hatchlings are kept until age five — is the only place you are guaranteed to see them. Go for the landscape, not the animals.
Curieuse Island: Geography, Access, and What to Expect
The island covers roughly 2.9 square kilometres and is reachable only by boat — a ten-minute ride from Praslin’s Côte d’Or or a longer crossing from Baie Ste Anne. A wooden jetty at Baie Laraie is the main landing point, and from there a single trail crosses the island to Anse José on the south coast, passing through a mangrove forest that connects to the Doctor’s House.
Photographers (mangrove boardwalk)
History enthusiasts (leper colony site)
Short day trips from Praslin
What the glossy brochures do not say: the trail from Baie Laraie to the Doctor’s House takes roughly 40 minutes on foot through exposed sections with little shade, and the tortoises you might see en route are almost entirely male. The SPGA’s own census data shows a heavily skewed sex ratio — the vast majority of the 86 tortoises identified in 2023 were males — which limits natural breeding outside the nursery.
Free-roaming tortoises identified during the first round of the 2023 census, down from an estimated 250 introduced four decades earlier.
The Tortoise Story: Reintroduction, Poaching, and the Nursery
The Aldabra giant tortoise (Aldabrachelys gigantea) is endemic to the Seychelles and originates from Aldabra Atoll, the largest atoll in the world, where more than 150,000 specimens live. Curieuse had no native tortoise population before humans arrived — the species was absent from the granitic islands for reasons that remain unclear. In 1978, the Seychelles government launched a national campaign to reintroduce them, releasing roughly 250 animals near the Ranger’s House at Baie Laraie.
The experiment did not go as planned. A 1994 study in Biological Conservation evaluating the translocation found that by 1990 only 117 animals remained, with low growth and reproductive rates suggesting saturation of resources even at low density. Poaching was a known problem — as recently as July 2016, 23 of 28 juvenile giant tortoises were stolen from the national park. Feral predators, particularly rats, eat hatchlings before they reach five years old. The study concluded that the “Curieuse Experiment” failed to establish a wild colony partly because the reasons for the original absence of tortoises were never understood.
The SPGA has run a rat control programme since 2023, and the 2023 census — supported by staff from H.Savy Insurance and Absa Bank Seychelles — identified 86 free-roaming tortoises in the first round. Head of the Terrestrial Research Unit Nathalie Dusfrene stated that the SPGA would “be happy with 170 tortoises” as a stable target. Should redistribution be needed, the SPGA plans to gradually translocate a maximum of 50 tortoises from Frégate Island, where the reintroduction has been comparatively successful.
For a deeper look at conservation efforts across the archipelago, the Seychelles eco-tourism experience covers how protected areas manage species recovery across multiple islands.
The Aldabra giant tortoise can reach more than 1.20 metres and up to 300 kg. A specimen named Jonathan, living on the island of Saint Helena, was born in 1832 and is considered the oldest known land animal on Earth at 191 years old. Several tortoises on Curieuse, La Digue, and other Seychelles islands surpass a century of life.
Planning a Day Trip: Timing, Access, and Practical Friction
Boat transfers to Curieuse depart from Praslin’s Côte d’Or and Baie Ste Anne, as well as from some hotels on the north coast. Most operators combine Curieuse with a stop at St Pierre Islet for snorkelling or a visit to Anse Lazio, meaning you typically get two to three hours on the island. Independent boat hire is possible but expensive.
| Departure point | Transfer time | Typical land time |
|---|---|---|
| Côte d’Or, Praslin | 10–15 min | 2–3 hours |
| Baie Ste Anne, Praslin | 20–25 min | 2–3 hours |
| Mahé (via Praslin) | 1 hr ferry + 10 min boat | 2–3 hours |
Getting There
Ferries from Mahé to Praslin run several times daily from Victoria. Once on Praslin, taxis or local buses connect to the boat departure points. The shortest crossing is from Côte d’Or, where small skiffs operate on demand during daylight hours. No scheduled public boat exists — all transfers are arranged through tour operators or hotels.
Best Time to Visit
April to October brings the southeast trade winds, which mean calmer seas for the crossing but also stronger currents around the island. November to March is wetter and hotter, with more frequent rain squalls that can muddy the trail to the Doctor’s House. The mangrove boardwalk is accessible year-round, but after heavy rain the wooden sections can be slippery.
The trail to the Doctor’s House has no shade for long stretches. Bring water, sunscreen, and insect repellent — sandflies are active near the mangroves, especially in the late afternoon. There are no food vendors on the island, so pack what you need.
Costs and Local Friction
Entrance to Curieuse is included in most boat tours, but independent visitors must pay a park fee at the ranger station near Baie Laraie. Cash only — there is no card terminal. Tours range from €40 to €80 per person depending on inclusions. The island has no accommodation, no shops, and no phone signal outside the ranger station area. If you miss the agreed pick-up time, there is no way to call for a boat.
For broader guidance on island logistics across the inner islands, the ultimate guide to island hopping Seychelles covers ferry schedules, recommended stopovers, and how to chain multiple islands without backtracking.
On the Ground: The Doctor’s House, Mangroves, and What to Know
The Doctor’s House
The Doctor’s House is a colonial-era building on the south coast that served as a shelter for the British leper colony, which operated on Curieuse until 1968. The building has been restored as a small museum with exhibits on the island’s history as a leper colony and the tortoise reintroduction. The walk from Baie Laraie takes about 40 minutes along a trail that passes the beach, enters the forest, and crosses a boardwalk through mangroves. The house itself is modest — two rooms with informational panels — but the setting, overlooking Anse José beach with no other structures in sight, is the real draw.
Mangrove Trail
The boardwalk through the mangrove forest connects the Baie Laraie side to the Doctor’s House. The mangroves are healthy and dense, with interpretive signs identifying species. The walk is flat and takes roughly 20 minutes one way. It is the best section of the island for birdwatching — look for Seychelles fodies and sunbirds in the canopy. The boardwalk ends at a sandy path that leads up to the Doctor’s House.
What to Pack and Local Etiquette
The trail is sandy and exposed. Sturdy sandals or trainers are better than flip-flops. Mosquito repellent is essential near the mangroves. There is no rubbish disposal on the island — carry out everything you bring in. The Seychelles Parks and Gardens Authority asks visitors not to feed or touch the tortoises, and to keep at least two metres distance from any nesting sites. If you encounter a tortoise on the trail, wait for it to move rather than walking around it — disturbing their movement pattern can disorient them, especially during hot hours.
- Book a boat tour from Praslin’s Côte d’Or for the shortest crossing and maximum land time.
- Visit the SPGA nursery near Baie Laraie immediately after landing — it is the only guaranteed tortoise encounter.
- Carry cash for the park entry fee and all food and water; there are no vendors on the island.
- Time the walk to the Doctor’s House for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the hottest part of the day.
Curieuse Island Visitor Questions
How do I get to Curieuse Island from Praslin?
The crossing takes 10 to 15 minutes from Côte d’Or or 20 to 25 minutes from Baie Ste Anne. No public ferry exists — all transfers are arranged through tour operators or hotel excursion desks. Independent boat hire is possible but must be arranged in advance.
Can I see giant tortoises on Curieuse Island?
Yes, but the encounter is less reliable than on Aldabra or Frégate. The free-roaming population numbers only around 86 individuals, and most are males. The SPGA nursery near Baie Laraie keeps hatchlings and juveniles in enclosures, which is where most visitors see them. Expect to see two to three tortoises on the trail, not dozens.
Is the Doctor’s House worth visiting?
The building itself is a modest two-room museum with panels on the leper colony and tortoise reintroduction. The setting — a restored colonial house on an empty beach — is the main attraction. The 40-minute walk through mangroves to reach it is arguably more memorable than the house itself. Allow one hour round trip from the jetty.
What should I bring for a day trip to Curieuse?
Water, sunscreen, insect repellent, and cash for the park entry fee. There are no food vendors, no shops, and no phone signal outside the ranger station. The trail is exposed and sandy — wear footwear that can handle both conditions. Carry out all rubbish; there is no disposal on the island.
Why did the tortoise reintroduction on Curieuse fail?
The 1994 study in Biological Conservation identified poaching, rat predation on hatchlings, and resource saturation as the main causes. The male-to-female ratio is also heavily skewed, limiting natural breeding. The SPGA now operates a nursery and a rat control programme to stabilise the population, but the free-roaming numbers remain far below the original 250.
Closing Thoughts
The walk through the mangroves to the Doctor’s House is one of the quietest experiences in the inner Seychelles — no jet skis, no beach bars, no announcements. Curieuse is not a tortoise sanctuary in the way most visitors imagine, but it is one of the few places in the archipelago where a conservation failure is visible and honestly documented. For travellers who want the unvarnished version of island ecology — including the parts that did not work — Curieuse offers something most day trips do not: a chance to see what recovery looks like when it is still in progress.
Sources and further reading
Translocation of Aldabran giant tortoises to Curieuse Island. Biological Conservation, 1994.
Census on giant tortoise population on Curieuse under way. Seychelles Nation, 2023.
Curieuse Island: a haven for giant tortoises. Got2Globe, 2023.
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