On the island of B. Thuladhoo, a single family might hold the knowledge of a craft that has shaped Maldivian interiors for centuries. Lacquerwork, known locally as liye-laajehumaa, combines wood carving (liyun) with the application of heated, colored lacquer (laajehumaa) onto items like bowls, vases, and rolling pins. It’s a skill so specific that, according to the Dhivehi dictionary, the word itself is a compound of those two distinct actions.
The most skilled artisans of this craft were found in B. Thuladhoo, where it was reportedly introduced by a man called Fares Don Moosa Bey, who learned it from Indian craftsmen.
This article walks through how the craft works, where to see it today, and what makes Maldivian lacquer distinct from the traditions that influenced it. If you’re heading to the Maldives and want to bring back something that isn’t a mass-produced souvenir, understanding this art form changes what you look for.
Maldivian lacquerwork is genuinely beautiful, but it’s not something you’ll stumble across at every resort gift shop. The only island where the craft is still actively practiced is Thulhaadhoo, and even there, the number of skilled artisans is small. If you want a piece, you’ll likely need to seek it out deliberately — and pay a fair price for the hours of handwork involved.
Understanding Liye-Laajehumaa: Geography and Technique
The craft is concentrated in one place, but its roots spread across oceans.
Lacquerwork in the Maldives is believed to have arrived through trade routes from China, Indonesia, and India. But Maldivian artisans developed their own style, using specific colors, designs, and patterns that make their work immediately recognizable. The process starts with a piece of wood mounted on a lathe — traditionally a manual one called Dhigu Haru or Bomakan’dhu Haru, operated by a cord wound around a spindle, though electric motors are increasingly common.
The lacquering stage, laa-fenkurun, involves applying heated lacquer to the carved item. After an initial coat and polish, different colored lacquer is heated, stretched into thin layers, arranged on the piece, and patterned using wooden knives. The surface is then polished with dried banana leaves. Historically, black, red, and yellow were the dominant colors, with green used occasionally. The yellow came from Fashurisseyo, a Maldivian herbal medicine; red from a substance called Uguli; and black from heating a ceramic tile with an oil lantern and collecting the tar.
Cultural travelers
Souvenir hunters seeking authenticity
Artisans and craft enthusiasts
One honest limitation: the craft is fragile. Lacquer can chip if handled roughly, and the traditional pieces aren’t designed for daily kitchen use the way modern ceramics are. They’re decorative, ceremonial, or intended for light use — a detail worth knowing before you buy.
Where the Craft Lives: Thulhaadhoo and Beyond
One island carries the tradition; the rest of the country shows its legacy.
Thulhaadhoo: The Last Active Workshop
Village Thulhaadhoo in Baa Atoll is the only island where lacquerwork is still actively practiced. Knowledge has been passed down through generations within several families. The scarcity of practitioners on other islands meant the craft simply wasn’t transmitted. If you visit, you’ll see artisans working on lathes, layering colors, and carving patterns from memory — no stencils, no pre-drawn guides. The designs are predominantly floral, with a slight abstract quality, potentially inspired by patterns observed in Chinese ceramics.
Getting to Thulhaadhoo requires a domestic seaplane or speedboat from Malé, then a local dhoni transfer. It’s not a quick resort day trip. Plan for a full day, and arrange your visit through a local guesthouse or guide who can connect you with a working artisan.
Historic Mosques: Lacquer in Architecture
Before Thulhaadhoo became the last stronghold, lacquerwork was used to preserve wooden architectural elements in some of the oldest coral stone mosques across the country. The carved and lacquered pillars, beams, and ceilings demonstrate that Maldivians have been practicing this craft for centuries. These mosques aren’t open to casual tourists in the way a museum is, but if you’re interested in the historical scope of the craft, they’re worth knowing about. The lacquer provided a protective glossy sheen that helped preserve the wood in the tropical climate.
The technique used on mosque beams is called Laa Fenkurun, an alternative style where lacquer is simmered with a substance called Rankaru, left under the sun for three days, and then poured onto the workpiece. It’s a different process from the lathe-based method used for smaller items.
What to Look For in a Piece
Authentic Maldivian lacquerwork uses specific color combinations — traditionally black, red, and yellow. Some contemporary artisans use oil colors for a wider range, but the traditional palette is a marker of heritage. The patterns are carved using a sharp implement, occasionally without prior planning, revealing the vibrant underlying layers in a process called Laa Negun. Gold and silver dust are sometimes incorporated into select pieces for extra allure. If you see a piece that looks mass-produced or uses synthetic paints without any hand-carved layering, it’s not the real thing.
Planning Your Visit: Timing, Access, and Costs
Seeing the craft requires more than just showing up.
| Factor | Thulhaadhoo Visit | Resort Gift Shop |
|---|---|---|
| Authenticity | Handmade by known artisans | Often mass-produced imports |
| Cost | Higher (fair artisan price) | Variable, often lower |
| Access | Requires planning and transport | Convenient but limited selection |
| Experience | Watch the process, meet the maker | Just a transaction |
Getting to Thulhaadhoo
From Malé, you can take a domestic flight to Dharavandhoo Airport in Baa Atoll, followed by a short speedboat ride. Alternatively, book a shared speedboat directly from Malé — it takes around 2–3 hours depending on sea conditions. Once on Thulhaadhoo, the island is small enough to walk. Ask at the local guesthouse or island council office for directions to an active workshop.
Best Time to Go
The dry season (December to April) offers calmer seas and more reliable transport. During the wet southwest monsoon (May to November), seaplane and speedboat schedules can be disrupted. If you’re visiting a resort in Baa Atoll, a day trip to Thulhaadhoo is logistically easier than from Malé or South Malé Atoll.
Some shops in Malé and at resorts sell items labeled as “Maldivian lacquerwork” that are actually imported from India or Sri Lanka. The real pieces are heavier, have visible hand-carved patterns, and use the traditional red-black-yellow palette. If the price seems too low for the amount of detail, it probably is.
What It Costs
A small hand-carved bowl or vase from a Thulhaadhoo artisan typically ranges from $30 to $100, depending on size, complexity, and the number of colors used. Larger, more intricate pieces with gold or silver dust can cost several hundred dollars. There’s no fixed pricing — you’re buying directly from the maker, so the price reflects the hours of labor.
On the Ground: What to Know Before You Go
Packing, etiquette, and a few practical realities.
Packing for a Craft-Focused Trip
If you’re planning to visit Thulhaadhoo or explore Malé’s craft scene, you’ll want a lightweight daypack for travel to carry any pieces you buy — lacquer items are fragile and shouldn’t be tossed into a suitcase without padding. A packable tote bag for souvenirs gives you an extra layer of protection. For the boat ride, a waterproof phone pouch for boating keeps your electronics safe from spray.
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Local Etiquette and Customs
Thulhaadhoo is a local island, not a resort island. Dress modestly — women should cover shoulders and knees, and men should wear shirts rather than walking around bare-chested. Ask permission before photographing artisans at work. A simple greeting in Dhivehi, like “Kihineh?” (How are you?), goes a long way. Avoid visiting during Friday prayers (12:30–2:30 PM) when most shops and workshops are closed.
Food and Accommodation
Thulhaadhoo has a few small guesthouses and local cafés serving Maldivian staples like mas huni (shredded smoked tuna with coconut and onion) and roshi (flatbread). Don’t expect resort-level dining. If you’re staying at a resort in Baa Atoll, your best bet is to arrange a day trip with a packed lunch. The island’s traditional practices for preserving the Maldives extend to how they manage waste and water — it’s a good reminder to bring a reusable water bottle.
- Thulhaadhoo is the only island where lacquerwork is actively practiced — plan your visit around that.
- Authentic pieces use a traditional red-black-yellow palette and are hand-carved from memory, not stenciled.
- Prices reflect hours of labor; a small bowl costs $30–$100, and larger pieces run higher.
- Respect local dress codes and prayer times on inhabited islands.
Thulhaadhoo and Maldivian Lacquerwork: Your Questions Answered
What is Maldivian lacquerwork called?
It’s called liye-laajehumaa, a compound word from liyun (carving) and laajehumaa (lacquering). The process involves shaping wood on a lathe and applying heated, colored lacquer in layers.
The term covers both the carving and the finishing — you can’t have one without the other. If you hear someone refer to laa-fenkurun, that’s specifically the lacquer-application stage.
Where can I buy authentic Maldivian lacquerware?
Your best bet is Thulhaadhoo in Baa Atoll, where you can buy directly from the artisan. Some shops in Malé also carry genuine pieces, but you’ll need to know what to look for — the traditional palette and visible hand-carving are key markers.
The tradeoff is convenience: Thulhaadhoo requires a full-day trip, while Malé is easier to reach but has a higher chance of mixed-quality goods.
Is Maldivian lacquerwork the same as Chinese or Indian lacquerware?
No. While the craft likely arrived via trade from China, Indonesia, and India, Maldivian artisans developed their own distinct style with specific colors (black, red, yellow) and floral patterns carved from memory. The use of Fashurisseyo for yellow pigment and Uguli for red is unique to the Maldives.
The result is immediately recognizable as Maldivian — it doesn’t look like a Chinese export or an Indian bangle.
Can I watch lacquerwork being made?
Yes, on Thulhaadhoo. Artisans work in open workshops, and most are happy to demonstrate if you ask politely. There’s no formal visitor center, so arrange your visit through a local guesthouse or guide.
Be prepared for a working environment — it’s not a polished tourist attraction. The lathes are manual or electric, and the lacquer is heated on-site, so the workshop can be warm and smell of resin.
Is lacquerwork still a living tradition in the Maldives?
Barely. Thulhaadhoo is the only island where the craft is actively practiced, and the number of skilled artisans is small. On other islands, the knowledge simply wasn’t passed down. The craft is considered endangered, which makes buying a piece directly from a Thulhaadhoo artisan a meaningful way to support its survival.
The tension is real: the craft survives because of tourism interest, but the demand is still low enough that young people on the island often choose other careers.
One Last Thing
The next time you see a lacquered beam in a 17th-century Maldivian mosque, remember that the same hands that carved it could have been the same ones layering red and yellow onto a vase in Thulhaadhoo last week. The craft hasn’t changed much — but the number of people who can do it has. That’s worth thinking about when you’re deciding whether to make the trip out to the island. For more on the cultural context that shapes these traditions, read about Maldivian folklore and the stories passed down through generations.
Sources and further reading
Liyela Jehun: Traditional Maldivian lacquer work. Maaldif, 2024.
Exploring the Art of Maldivian Lacquer Work. Pradhanmantri Sangrahalaya, 2024.
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