Tapping into Tradition: Learn About Toddy Tapping Culture in the Maldives

On a quiet island in the Maldives, I watched a man climb a coconut palm with nothing but a rope looped around his feet. He moved with the kind of practiced ease that only decades of repetition can build. At the top, he carefully adjusted a small container made from a coconut shell — a gudi — to catch the sap dripping from a cut in the flower bud. This is raa verikan, the art of toddy tapping, a tradition that dates back centuries and was once one of the most respected professions in the country. Today, fewer than a handful of men still practice it, and the knowledge is at risk of disappearing entirely.

This article covers what toddy tapping is, how the sap transforms into the mildly alcoholic brew known as ruku raa, the many surprising uses of toddy in Maldivian cooking, and where you might still encounter this fading tradition. It also explains why the government has started stepping in to preserve it.

What Is Toddy Tapping? The Tradition of Raa Verikan

Toddy tapping, known locally as raa verikan or ru erun, is the practice of collecting sap from coconut palm flowers to produce a sweet, mildly alcoholic drink.

The tapper, called a raa veriyaa, first ripens the unopened flower bud of a coconut palm. Using a chisel-like knife, he carefully cuts the tip of the bud, then wraps it with dry screw pine leaves. Once prepared, the palm is referred to as a raa rui — a tree that will produce sap. A specially crafted pot made from coconut shells, the gudi, is attached to the cut and covered with more screw pine leaves. The container is left overnight to fill.

Twice daily, the tapper climbs each palm — once in the morning to collect the sap, and again later in the day. The sap harvested in the evening is widely regarded as the sweetest. The liquid is then transferred to a larger container called a raa badhi, made from two or three joined coconut shells. Because the sap begins fermenting immediately upon contact with air — thanks to natural yeasts — the sweetness varies depending on how long it’s left to collect.

One honest limitation: you won’t see this on any resort excursion board. The practice has almost entirely disappeared, and the only people still tapping are older men who have done it their whole lives. If you want to witness it, you’ll need to visit a local inhabited island and ask around — and even then, there’s no guarantee you’ll find someone still working.

From Sap to Table: The Many Uses of Toddy

Toddy isn’t just a drink. In Maldivian households, it transforms into sweeteners, desserts, pickles, and even vinegar.

Dhiyaa Hakuru — The Maldivian Maple Syrup

When toddy is heated, it reduces into a thick, golden, honey-like syrup called dhiyaa hakuru. It has more than a passing resemblance to maple syrup and is used as a sweetener for rice, roshi (local flatbread), and desserts. It’s also a key ingredient in sweet cakes and traditional snacks. One of the most practical qualities of dhiyaa hakuru is that it doesn’t spoil — it can be stored for months without refrigeration or added preservatives.

Karu Hakuru and Toddy Vinegar

If you cook dhiyaa hakuru even further over low heat with a pinch of sugar and a particular form of coral, it eventually turns into a creamy-white paste called karu hakuru. Locals use it as a dipping sauce for breadfruit chips and other snacks. When toddy is left to ferment for a long time, it becomes vinegar with a strong acidic flavour. This vinegar is used as a preservative in local pickles and to add depth to other dishes.

Bondi Haluwa — A Historical Export

Early in the 20th century, toddy played a significant role in the Maldivian economy. One of the most famous exports was bondi haluwa, a sweetened toddy product. Direct trade between three atolls and Sri Lanka was once common, with toddy products being sold abroad and also used as provisions on long sea voyages lasting two to three months.

Practical Planning for the Curious Traveller

If you want to experience toddy culture firsthand, you need to plan around where and when to look — and accept that you might not find it at all.

Getting There: Which Islands Still Have Tappers?

The practice has faded so much that there’s no official list of active tappers. Historically, tappers from Dhonakulhi and Maroshi islands supported Mohamed Thakurufaan during the Maldives’ struggle for independence from the Portuguese. Today, the remaining tappers are scattered across a few islands, mostly older men who learned from their fathers. Your best bet is to visit a local guesthouse on an inhabited island and ask your host — they’ll often know if anyone in the community still taps.

Best Time to Visit

Toddy tapping happens year-round, but the collection schedule is twice daily: early morning and late afternoon. The evening collection produces the sweetest sap, so if you can arrange to be on an island in the late afternoon, that’s your best window. The dry season (November to April) makes travel between islands easier, but the practice itself isn’t seasonal.

On the Ground: What to Know Before You Go

Toddy culture is deeply tied to local life, and understanding a few basics will help you navigate the experience with respect.

Packing for Local Island Visits

If you’re heading to an inhabited island rather than a resort, you’ll need to dress modestly — shoulders and knees covered, especially for women. A lightweight sarong is useful for both men and women. The sun is intense, so a reef-safe mineral sunscreen is essential. You’ll also want a reusable water bottle, as single-use plastics are increasingly discouraged on local islands.

Local Etiquette Around Toddy

Toddy tapping is a skill passed down from father to son, and the tools and techniques are considered family knowledge. If you’re lucky enough to meet a tapper, don’t assume you can photograph or film freely — always ask first. The word ruku raa literally means “coconut tree wine,” and while the drink is mildly alcoholic, it’s consumed as a daily beverage in many households, not as a party drink. Treat it with the same casual respect you’d give a glass of fresh juice.

The Government’s Role in Preservation

Recognising that the occupation could die out entirely, the Maldivian government has introduced toddy tapping courses on some islands. It’s a small-scale effort, but it signals that the cultural value of raa verikan is being taken seriously at a national level. Whether it will be enough to reverse the decline remains to be seen.

Questions About Toddy Tapping in the Maldives

Is toddy tapping still practised in the Maldives?

Barely. The number of active tappers has dwindled to a handful of older men who learned from their fathers. The government has started offering courses to try to revive the practice, but it’s not yet clear if younger generations will take it up.

Can tourists try fresh toddy in the Maldives?

It’s very unlikely at a resort. Your best chance is on a local inhabited island where a tapper still works. Ask your guesthouse host — they’ll often know who to talk to. Just be aware that the sap ferments quickly, so the flavour changes by the hour.

What does toddy taste like?

Fresh toddy is white, sweet, and slightly grassy — think of a mild coconut water with more body. As it ferments, it becomes tangy and mildly alcoholic. The evening collection is the sweetest; morning toddy has a sharper edge.

Is toddy the same as palm wine?

Close, but not identical. Toddy is the fresh sap, which is non-alcoholic when first collected. Palm wine is the fermented version. In the Maldives, the term ruku raa covers both, depending on how long it’s been left to ferment.

Why is toddy tapping disappearing?

Modernisation and changing lifestyles are the main reasons. Younger Maldivians are pursuing education and jobs in tourism and other industries. Climbing palms twice daily for a modest return isn’t appealing when resort jobs pay more consistently.

One Last Thought

What struck me most about watching a raa veriyaa work wasn’t the climbing — it was the quiet patience. He didn’t rush. He checked each gudi with the same care, adjusted the screw pine coverings, and descended without a word. That kind of unhurried competence is rare anywhere, and in the Maldives, it’s becoming rarer still. If you get the chance to see it, take it. The ingenuity behind island living is worth understanding before it’s gone.

Sources and further reading

A glass of history: Toddying through generations in the Maldives. The Arrival, 2024.

Maldivian Toddy tapper. Maldives My Islands, 2024.

Ruku Raa: The Versatile Maldivian Brew. Travel Trade Maldives, 2024.