The Art of Lei Making: A Step-by-Step Guide to Hawaiian Flower Traditions

In 1928, territorial governor Wallace Rider Farrington signed a proclamation that would, over the next century, transform a private gesture of affection into a public holiday. Lei Day, celebrated annually on May 1, was conceived by poet Don Blanding as a way to honor the garlands that had been part of Hawaiian life for centuries. But the lei itself is far older than any official proclamation — and far more complex than the tourist-brochure image of a flower necklace draped over a arriving visitor.

What exactly is a lei, and what does it mean to make one? The word refers to any garland or wreath worn around the neck or head, but the practice encompasses dozens of materials, techniques, and regional variations across the Hawaiian islands. This guide traces the tradition from its ancient roots through its evolution under colonization and tourism, then walks through the actual process of making a lei — because understanding the craft is inseparable from understanding the culture it comes from.

Quick Reference: Major Lei Types and Their Meanings

This table captures the most common categories, but regional variation is significant. On Niʻihau, for example, shell leis are the dominant form and can take months to complete. On the Big Island, feather leis historically carried the highest status. The material available on each island shaped what artisans made.

Where the Tradition Began

The practice of wearing garlands arrived in Hawaiʻi with the first Polynesian voyagers, likely from the Marquesas Islands and later Tahiti, between 400 and 800 CE. These early settlers brought with them the concept of wearing woven plant materials for religious ceremonies, celebrations, and as markers of social standing. In ancient Hawaiʻi, leis were not merely decorative — they communicated rank, lineage, and spiritual connection.

Feather leis, known as lei hulu, were particularly significant. They were made from the feathers of native birds like the ʻiʻiwi, ʻōʻō, and mamo, which were carefully collected and woven onto a netted base of olonā fiber. These leis were reserved for aliʻi (chiefs) and were considered symbols of divine power. The yellow feathers of the mamo bird were so prized that a single lei could require the feathers of thousands of birds. The practice declined sharply after European contact, when introduced diseases decimated native bird populations and Western materials became available.

The arrival of Captain James Cook in 1778 and subsequent Western contact introduced new materials — glass beads, silk ribbons, metal wire — that expanded what leis could be made from. But it also disrupted the social structures that had governed lei use. The overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893 and the annexation by the United States in 1898 further marginalized many traditional practices. Leis, however, persisted as a form of quiet cultural resistance and community bonding.

How Colonization and Tourism Reshaped the Practice

The 19th and 20th centuries brought profound changes to lei-making. Western missionaries discouraged what they viewed as pagan adornment, and many Hawaiians were pressured to abandon traditional dress and practices. At the same time, the growing sugar and pineapple plantations brought immigrant workers from China, Japan, Portugal, and the Philippines, who introduced their own floral traditions that blended with Hawaiian practices.

The real turning point came with the rise of tourism in the early 20th century. Hotels and steamship companies began promoting leis as a welcoming gesture for arriving visitors. The image of a smiling woman placing a plumeria lei around a tourist’s neck became a marketing staple. This commercialization created economic opportunities for lei makers but also risked flattening the tradition into a transaction.

Lei Day, first celebrated in 1928, was partly an attempt to reclaim the practice as a genuine cultural expression rather than just a tourist attraction. Today, the holiday is observed across the islands with hula performances, lei-making contests, and community gatherings. The Maui Ocean Center, for example, hosts Lei Day events that include cultural plant tours and hands-on lei-making workshops.

The Materials and Their Meanings

Choosing the right material is the first and most culturally significant step in making a lei. Different flowers, leaves, shells, and fibers carry different symbolic associations, and these can vary by island and family tradition.

This is not an exhaustive list. Contemporary lei makers also use non-traditional materials like ribbon, yarn, plastic flowers, candy, and even currency — especially for graduation leis, where money leis have become a popular way to give a practical gift within a traditional form. The key is that the intention behind the gift matters as much as the material.

How to Make a Basic Flower Lei: The Kui (Stitching) Method

The kui method is the most common technique for making a flower lei and the one most visitors encounter in workshops. It involves threading flowers onto a needle and string, one after another, to create a continuous garland. There are other methods — hili (braiding), wili (twisting), and haku (weaving) — but kui is the most accessible for beginners.

This method produces a classic single-strand lei. More complex variations include double-strand leis (two parallel strings of flowers) and three-strand leis (braided together). The skill level increases with each additional strand, but the basic technique remains the same.

How the Tradition Differs Across the Islands

Lei-making is not uniform across Hawaiʻi. Each island has its own preferred materials, techniques, and occasions, shaped by local ecology and history.

These regional distinctions are not rigid — a lei maker on Oʻahu might use mokihana brought from Kauaʻi, and a Niʻihau shell lei might be purchased by someone on Maui. But the island-specific traditions reflect a deeper principle: lei-making is rooted in place. The materials come from the land and sea of a specific location, and the techniques have been shaped by what grows there.

Preservation and Care

A fresh flower lei has a short lifespan — typically one to three days, depending on the flowers used and how they are stored. Proper care can extend this slightly.

Transport the lei in a rigid box or container to avoid crushing. Keep it refrigerated when not wearing it, ideally in a plastic bag with a damp paper towel to maintain humidity. Mist the flowers periodically with water, but avoid soaking them. If the lei begins to wilt, you can hang it to dry and preserve it as a dried garland, though the colors will fade. Some people disassemble dried leis and press the flowers in a shadowbox frame as a keepsake.

Feather and shell leis, by contrast, can last for generations with proper care. Store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, which can fade colors. Shell leis should be handled gently to avoid breaking the delicate threads.

Questions Readers Ask

Can I take a lei home from Hawaiʻi?

Yes, but with restrictions. Fresh flower leis must be declared at agricultural inspection when leaving the state. Some flowers and plant materials are prohibited from entering the U.S. mainland or other countries. Dried leis, shell leis, and feather leis generally face fewer restrictions. Check with the U.S. Department of Agriculture or your airline before packing.

Is it okay to refuse a lei?

Refusing a lei is considered rude in most contexts. If you have a genuine reason — severe allergies, for example — explain politely and accept the lei briefly before setting it aside. The giver’s intention is to honor you, and rejecting that intention outright can cause offense.

What is the difference between a lei and a lūʻau?

A lei is a garland; a lūʻau is a feast or party. Leis are often given at lūʻaus as a symbol of hospitality and welcome, but the two are separate traditions. The confusion arises because both are heavily marketed to tourists, sometimes as a package deal.

Can men wear leis?

Yes. In ancient Hawaiʻi, men wore leis as markers of rank and achievement. Today, men wear leis at graduations, weddings, and formal events. The style may differ — shorter leis or those made from more masculine materials like maile vine or kukui nuts — but the practice is not gender-restricted.

Are money leis traditional?

Money leis are a modern adaptation, not an ancient practice. They became popular in the 20th century, particularly for graduations, as a way to give a practical gift within a traditional form. Some families consider them a creative evolution; others view them as a departure from the craft’s roots. Both perspectives are valid within the living tradition.

The Living Thread

What makes lei-making endure is not the flowers or the technique but the act of giving. A lei is a physical manifestation of a relationship — between the giver and receiver, between the maker and the land, between the present moment and the generations who threaded flowers before. The materials will wilt, the shells may crack, the feathers will fade. But the gesture, if made with intention, outlasts the object.

For a deeper look at how Hawaiian cultural practices carry history and meaning, read our guide to the ancient art of hula, another tradition that is far more than performance.

Sources and further reading

Maui Ocean Center. “The Art of Lei-Making: A Hawaiian Tradition.” 🔗

NPIFund. “Hawaiian Leis: Understanding Their Rich Tradition, Cultural Symbolism, and the Art of Lei Making.” 🔗

Related reading on IslandHopperGuides

Lei Making: The Art of Giving and Receiving Aloha — A focused guide on the etiquette and social meaning of giving and receiving leis.

Experience the Joy of the Makahiki Festival in Hawaii — Another seasonal celebration with deep cultural roots, including games, offerings, and community gathering.

Rediscovering Traditional Hawaiian Music: From Oli Chants to Slack Key Guitar — Music and chant often accompany lei-giving ceremonies and hula performances.