Hula is not a performance you watch; it is a text you read in motion. Every hand gesture, foot placement, and hip shift corresponds to a word or idea in the accompanying mele (song or chant), creating a layered narrative that communicates genealogy, mythology, and political history simultaneously. The Merrie Monarch Festival, held annually in Hilo since 1971, draws sell-out crowds and live television coverage to watch hālau hula (hula schools) compete in what locals call the Olympics of hula. A 2025 public health study found that a quarter of Hawaii’s residents have danced or still dance hula — a figure that underscores how deeply the practice remains embedded in daily life, not just ceremonial occasions.
King David Kalākaua called hula the “language of the heart and therefore the heartbeat of the Hawaiian people.”
This article covers the two major styles of hula — ancient Hula Kahiko and modern Hula ʻAuana — the cultural and political history that shaped them, and the practical realities of experiencing hula as a visitor. It also examines the growing body of research into hula’s health benefits, which has turned the dance into a tool for cardiac rehabilitation and hypertension management. The goal is to help you distinguish between a tourist-floor show and a genuine cultural transmission, and to understand why that distinction matters.
Hula is Hawaii’s primary vehicle for transmitting Indigenous knowledge across generations — a disciplined practice requiring years of study, not a casual activity. Visitors can observe authentic hula at the Merrie Monarch Festival or at smaller hālau performances, but should understand that commercial luaus often present a simplified version stripped of sacred context. The caveat: even abbreviated performances can serve as a legitimate entry point if you know what to look for.
Understanding Hula Kahiko and Hula ʻAuana
Hula divides into two broad categories that reflect different eras, purposes, and aesthetics. Hula Kahiko is the ancient form, dedicated to the goddess Laka, and requires dancers to master intricate rituals and prayers before performing. It was traditionally performed within heiau (temples) for aliʻi (chiefs) and priests, using percussion instruments like the pahu (sharkskin drum) and ʻiliʻili (smooth lava stones clicked together). The movements are angular, the facial expressions serious, and the oli (chant) carries the primary narrative weight.
Hula ʻAuana emerged after Western contact and incorporates melodic instruments like the ʻukulele and guitar. Its themes are often more secular — love songs, place names, contemporary events — and its movements are flowing, with greater emphasis on hip sway and arm extensions. This is the style most visitors encounter at resort luaus, though the version performed there is frequently shortened and stripped of its mele context. The distinction matters because Hula Kahiko is not simply older; it is a sacred practice with protocols around who may learn it, when it may be performed, and what may be worn.
First-time visitors wanting cultural context
Return visitors seeking deeper understanding
Practitioners studying dance ethnology
have danced or still dance hula, according to a 2025 University of Hawaiʻi public health study.
What I’d do: skip the generic resort show and look for a performance by a hālau that includes an oli before the dance. The chant establishes the intention and the relationship between dancer, story, and audience — without it, you are watching movement without meaning.
Where to See Hula: From Competition to Community
The Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo
The Merrie Monarch Festival, named after King David Kalākaua, takes place each spring at the Edith Kanakaʻole Stadium in Hilo. Invited hālau hula compete in front of a panel of judges, sell-out crowds, and live television cameras. The competition is divided into Kahiko and ʻAuana divisions, and the level of precision is staggering — a single misplaced hand gesture can cost points. Tickets are notoriously difficult to obtain; locals often line up hours before the box office opens, and many sessions sell out within minutes. The festival also includes a parade and a traditional Hawaiian arts and crafts fair, which are free and more accessible.
Community Performances and Hālau Openings
Throughout the year, hālau across the islands hold public performances, often tied to school graduations, cultural center events, or the Makahiki season. These events typically include an explanation of the mele and the gestures used to interpret it, which is something commercial shows rarely provide. The Bishop Museum on Oʻahu and the Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island both host regular hula demonstrations with cultural practitioners who take questions afterward. These are smaller, quieter, and far more informative than a luau stage show.
At the Bishop Museum, hula demonstrations often include a brief lesson on hand gestures — ʻauwae (chin touch for “think”), hāloa (arm extension for “long”) — so you can follow the story being told. Arrive 15 minutes early to sit near the front; the practitioners speak at a normal volume and outdoor wind can carry their words.
What I’d do: check the calendar for the Makahiki festivals, which often include hula as part of the seasonal celebrations. These events are community-oriented, not tourist-oriented, and the dancing is performed in its proper ritual context.
Planning Your Visit: Timing, Access, and Realistic Expectations
The Merrie Monarch Festival occurs in the spring, typically late March or early April, but the exact dates shift annually. If you are not attending the competition, the surrounding week still offers cultural events, including the parade and the arts fair. For general hula viewing, the dry season (April through October) provides more outdoor performance opportunities, though indoor venues like the Bishop Museum run year-round.
| Experience | Cost | Authenticity Level | Accessibility |
|---|---|---|---|
| Merrie Monarch competition | $25–$60 per session | Highest — judged, competitive, full protocol | Very low — sells out instantly |
| Bishop Museum demonstration | Included with museum admission ($25) | High — led by cultural practitioners | High — weekly schedule, no reservation needed |
| Resort luau | $100–$200 | Low — abbreviated, Westernized, often no oli | High — book online, multiple venues |
Some commercial luaus advertise “authentic hula” but use recorded music, skip the opening chant, and have dancers who are not trained in a hālau. If the performance does not begin with an oli or the dancers do not wear paʻu (wrapped skirts) for Kahiko, you are watching entertainment, not cultural transmission.
Getting to Hilo for the Merrie Monarch requires advance planning. Flights into Hilo International Airport are limited compared to Kona on the other side of the island, and rental cars book out months in advance during festival week. Accommodation in Hilo itself is sparse — most visitors stay in hotels along Banyan Drive or book vacation rentals in nearby Keaʻau. The stadium has no dedicated parking lot; attendees park on surrounding streets or in designated lots a 10-minute walk away.
What I’d do: if you cannot get Merrie Monarch tickets, plan a trip to the Big Island during the same week anyway. The parade, the arts fair, and the informal hālau performances that pop up around Hilo during festival week offer more genuine interaction than the competition itself, and you will not be fighting for a seat.
On the Ground: Etiquette, Dress, and What to Expect
Watching Hula as a Visitor
Hula is not a passive spectacle. During a Kahiko performance, the audience is expected to remain silent — no applause between sections, no talking, no photography without permission. The oli that opens the performance is a prayer, and disrupting it is considered disrespectful. At the Merrie Monarch, the audience often rises when a hālau from their own district performs, and they may join in the oli if they know it. Visitors who do not know the protocol should follow the lead of the local audience members around them.
What to Wear and Bring
For outdoor performances, dress for sun and wind. The Edith Kanakaʻole Stadium has no shade, and the trade winds can be strong enough to knock over a water bottle. Closed-toe shoes are advisable if you are standing for long periods. For indoor demonstrations, no special dress code applies, but removing your hat before entering is a standard Hawaiian courtesy. Do not wear a lei unless you are prepared to explain its significance — wearing one casually can be read as performative.
At the Bishop Museum, the hula demonstration takes place on the lawn near the Hawaiian Hall. The grass is often damp in the morning — bring a sit-upon or a towel if you plan to sit on the ground. The museum provides folding chairs, but they go quickly.
The Health Research Behind the Dance
Researchers at the University of Hawaiʻi John A. Burns School of Medicine have spent two decades studying hula as a health intervention. Dr. Todd Seto, a cardiologist at Queen’s Medical Center, helped design a study using hula for cardiac rehabilitation. The results were striking: participants in a hypertension study dropped their systolic blood pressure significantly, and three months after the study ended — when participants were entirely on their own — they maintained that improvement. Other scientists are now examining hula-based programs for breast cancer survivor recovery and Parkinson’s disease physical therapy. From a physiological standpoint, hula qualifies as moderate to vigorous physical activity, equivalent to fast walking or a competitive basketball game depending on the skill level.
- Hula is a cardiovascular workout — the Kahiko style, with its deep knee bends and rapid footwork, raises heart rate significantly. Do not underestimate the physical demand.
- If you want to learn basic hula movements, look for a hālau that offers beginner workshops, not a resort class. The difference in instruction quality is substantial.
What I’d do: if you have a heart condition or high blood pressure, ask your doctor whether a hula-based program might be appropriate. The research out of UH is robust enough that some Hawaiian health clinics now prescribe hula classes alongside medication.
Hula: Common Questions
Is hula only performed by women?
No. Men have always danced hula, both in Kahiko and ʻAuana styles. In ancient times, men trained in hālau alongside women, and some of the most prestigious kumu hula (master teachers) have been men. The Merrie Monarch competition includes men’s divisions, and male dancers are often celebrated for their strength and precision in Kahiko.
Can tourists learn hula without offending local practitioners?
Yes, if you approach it with humility. Many hālau offer introductory workshops that teach basic steps and the meaning behind them. The key is to treat it as a cultural practice, not a workout class — learn the mele, understand the gestures, and do not perform it publicly without permission. The community-first ethos of Hawaiian culture means that showing respect for the practice matters more than technical skill.
Why was hula outlawed in the 19th century?
Queen Kaʻahumanu, who converted to Christianity, outlawed hula in 1830 because missionaries viewed it as pagan. The ban remained in effect until after her death in 1832, and hula was driven underground for decades. King David Kalākaua revived it publicly at his 1883 coronation, but the American overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom in 1893 again suppressed the practice as a symbol of royalist resistance.
What is the difference between a luau hula show and a real hula performance?
A luau show typically presents Hula ʻAuana with recorded music, abbreviated choreography, and no oli (chant). A real performance — whether at Merrie Monarch or a hālau event — includes an opening chant, live percussion, and dancers who have trained for years. The luau version is entertainment; the hālau version is cultural transmission. Both have their place, but they are not the same thing.
Does hula have health benefits beyond physical fitness?
Yes. A University of Hawaiʻi study found that hula participants in a hypertension program maintained their blood pressure improvements three months after the study ended — something few medication-only interventions achieve. Researchers are now studying hula for breast cancer survivor recovery and Parkinson’s disease therapy. The combination of physical movement, memorization of mele, and social connection appears to create benefits that exercise alone does not.
Beyond the Stage
The Hawaiian Renaissance of the 1970s did not invent hula — it reclaimed it. The philosophy of reciprocity with the environment, expressed through the Aloha ʻĀina movement, gave rise to political protests against military bombing of Kahoʻolawe and telescope construction on Mauna Kea, and hula was part of that resistance. When you watch a hālau perform, you are watching a practice that survived a ban, an overthrow, and a century of suppression. The dance itself is the archive. Like the martial art of lua, hula encodes knowledge that was never meant to be written down — only moved through.
Sources and further reading
Hula: Hawaii’s storytelling in motion. History.com, 2024.
The ancient and often sacred dance indigenous to Hawaii. The New York Times, 2023.
Health research brings science and culture together under hula. Hawaii Public Radio, 2025.
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