In 1927, a newspaper illustrator named Don Blanding proposed something that seemed almost frivolous to Honolulu’s establishment: a day dedicated entirely to the flower garland Hawaiians called lei. Within two years, the territory’s governor had signed it into official recognition, and by 2008, the City and County of Honolulu’s annual celebration had produced a single lei measuring 5,336 feet — the world’s longest. What began as a quiet, deeply personal craft carried by Polynesian voyagers more than 1,000 years ago had become a public holiday, a tourism draw, and a flashpoint for questions about who gets to define a tradition.
Lei making arrived in Hawaiʻi with Polynesian voyagers more than 1,000 years ago, yet the practice remains alive and contested — a living tradition, not a preserved relic.
This article is for anyone who has ever received a lei at an airport or luau and wondered what it actually means — and for those who want to engage with the craft beyond the souvenir counter. The question isn’t “how do you make a lei?” but rather: what does the act of making and giving a lei reveal about Hawaiian values, and how has that meaning shifted over time?
Lei making is a practice rooted in reciprocity, not decoration. The short answer is that a lei communicates aloha — but that word itself is contested and layered, encompassing love, hospitality, and mutual responsibility. The form the lei takes, the materials used, and the occasion all carry specific messages that vary by island, family tradition, and even political stance. There is no single “correct” way to make or wear a lei, but there are widely agreed-upon protocols for showing respect when you receive one.
Below is a quick-reference overview of the eight main Hawaiian islands and the plant materials that serve as their official symbols. These are not just decorative motifs — they reflect each island’s ecology, history, and the specific stories communities tell about themselves.
| Island | Official Material | Type | Origin / Status | Notable Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hawaiʻi (Big Island) | Red lehua | Blossom from ʻōhiʻa tree | Native; legend ties it to Pele | Symbolizes resilience; grows on new lava |
| Maui | Pink lokelani rose | Damask rose | Introduced from Asia in 1800s; official in 1923 | Only nonnative plant among island symbols |
| Oʻahu | Yellow ʻilima | Thin orange blossoms | Native; requires 500–1,000 blossoms per lei | Historically worn by high chieftains |
| Kauaʻi | Purple mokihana berry | Fragrant endemic berry | Endemic to Kauaʻi | Worn over clothing due to skin irritation |
| Molokaʻi | Green kukui nut | Candlenut tree | Polynesian canoe plant | Used for oil, illumination, tattoo dye, medicine |
| Lānaʻi | Orange kaunaʻoa | Native dodder (parasitic vine) | Native; grows on windswept beaches | Chosen for beauty and identity |
| Kahoʻolawe | Gray hinahina | Beach heliotrope | Native; island was military bombing range | Symbolizes restoration after 1994 return |
| Niʻihau | Shell lei (pūpū) | Small seashells | Privately owned island; Niʻihau shell leis are rare | Highly valued; passed down as heirlooms |
Note: Niʻihau is not always listed in official island-flower rosters, but its shell lei tradition is among the most prized in Hawaiʻi. The table above reflects the most commonly cited designations from the 1920s onward, though some communities contest specific choices.
From Polynesian Voyagers to Lei Day: A Living Tradition with a Fixed Origin Story
The earliest lei makers were Polynesian voyagers who brought the practice to Hawaiʻi more than 1,000 years ago. These were not casual garlands. Early leis were worn as markers of rank: high-ranking aliʻi (chiefs) were identified by specific lei types and patterns. Feathered leis, or lei hulu, were reserved for the ruling class, while a whale-tooth pendant lei called lei niho palaoa symbolized royalty itself. Leis marked births, deaths, peace settlements, and war victories. The mana, or spiritual power, of the maker was understood to be woven into each strand — giving a lei meant giving a part of yourself.
That cosmology didn’t disappear when Western contact began, but it did transform. By the early 20th century, leis were already being sold to tourists, and the practice had become a symbol of Hawaiian identity in a territory under U.S. control. Enter Don Blanding, a mainland transplant who had seen the play The Bird of Paradise in Kansas City in 1915 and moved to Hawaiʻi soon after. In late 1927, he floated the idea of a dedicated lei day to the Honolulu Star-Bulletin. Writer Grace Tower Warren paired it with the slogan “May Day is Lei Day in Hawaiʻi.” Governor Wallace R. Farrington made it official in 1929, and Princess Helen Kawananākoa lent her support — a gesture that helped legitimize the holiday among Native Hawaiian communities wary of commercial appropriation.
Lei Day is still celebrated across the islands, and it remains a point of contention. Some Native Hawaiian practitioners see it as a watered-down, tourist-friendly version of a sacred practice. Others defend it as a genuine expression of cultural pride that keeps the craft alive. Both positions are valid, and the tension itself is part of the story. For a deeper look at how oral traditions carry these kinds of contested histories, see our guide to Hawaiian storytelling and moʻolelo.
The Language of Flowers and Materials: What Different Leis Say
Every lei communicates something specific. The material, color, and construction method all carry meaning, and reading that meaning requires local knowledge — not just a color-coded chart. Plumeria leis, with their sweet fragrance and bright petals, are often associated with grace, charm, and beauty. Orchid leis, admired for their exotic appearance, signal luxury and rarity. Fern leis are delicate and add an understated elegance, often used for ceremonies rather than casual gifting. Maile leaves, which are woven rather than strung, symbolize unity and friendship and are traditionally used in weddings and peace-making rituals.
Colors add another layer. Bright shades like yellow or pink generally suggest joy and celebration. White commonly signals purity and respect, which is why white leis are frequent at graduations and memorials. But these associations are not rigid — many families have their own color logic based on what grows in their region or what a particular flower meant to a grandparent. The safest approach is to let the occasion guide your choice and ask a local florist or workshop instructor for advice.
| Material | Common Meaning | Typical Occasion | Construction Method | Status Today |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plumeria | Grace, charm, beauty | Welcomes, celebrations | Stringing with needle and thread | Very common; widely available |
| Orchid | Luxury, rarity | Formal events, gifts | Stringing or wiring | Common; often imported |
| Maile | Unity, friendship | Weddings, peace-making | Weaving (no needle) | Traditional; less common commercially |
| Feather (lei hulu) | Rank, status | Ceremonial, chiefly | Tying individual feathers | Rare; historically reserved for aliʻi |
| Shell (pūpū) | Endurance, heirloom | Significant life events | Stringing, often on silk thread | Valued; Niʻihau shell leis are prized |
| Kukui nut | Enlightenment, protection | Blessings, graduations | Stringing polished nuts | Common; also used for oil and medicine |
One of the most persistent misconceptions visitors bring is that any flower lei is appropriate for any occasion. In practice, a lei meant for a wedding might feel out of place at a funeral, and vice versa. If you are unsure, a simple maile lei or a single-strand plumeria in a neutral color is a safe choice. For more on how plant materials connect to broader Hawaiian craft traditions, read about the art of tapa making, which uses similar plant-sourcing principles.
Learning the Craft: What a Workshop Actually Looks Like
Lei-making workshops are offered on Oʻahu, Maui, and the Big Island, typically in community centers, botanical gardens, or cultural centers. Most run two to three hours and include all materials. The experience is less about producing a perfect lei and more about understanding the patience and intentionality the craft requires. A single ʻilima lei, for example, can require 500 to 1,000 individual blossoms — each one threaded by hand.
Instructors guide you to choose fresh, unblemished flowers. You remove excess leaves and trim stems to 2–3 inches. The choice of flower is discussed in terms of both aesthetics and meaning — what message does this color send? Is this flower native or introduced?
Using a needle and waxed linen thread or floral wire, you thread the flowers, alternating sides and spacing them roughly 2 inches apart for balance. The instructor explains why the thread should be neither too tight nor too loose — a tight lei can break; a loose one loses its shape.
You knot the lei, add a ribbon bow if desired, and mist it with water. The instructor explains how to keep it fresh: refrigerate in a sealed bag, avoid direct sun, and never leave it in a hot car. A lei is a living thing, and treating it as disposable is seen as disrespectful.
When booking a workshop, look for classes taught by Native Hawaiian practitioners rather than large hotel-run activities. Organizations like the Hawaiian Lei Making workshops featured on This Week Hawaii list community-based options. Ask whether the instructor is from the island you are visiting — each island has distinct techniques and material preferences.
Workshops typically welcome absolute beginners, and the emphasis is on personal expression rather than strict rules. That said, the best instructors will also explain the kapu (prohibitions) around certain materials — for example, picking lehua from an ʻōhiʻa tree without permission is considered disrespectful in some districts because of the tree’s association with the volcano goddess Pele. For a look at another Hawaiian practice that blends performance, skill, and cultural protocol, see our article on fire knife dancing.
Lei Etiquette and Cultural Sensitivity: What to Do and What to Avoid
Receiving a lei is a moment that carries more weight than many visitors realize. The etiquette is straightforward but meaningful. When someone offers you a lei, bow your head slightly so they can place it around your neck. Do not remove it in front of the giver — that signals that you do not value the gift. If you must take it off, wait until you are out of sight. Refusing a lei is considered rude unless you have a genuine allergy, in which case a polite explanation is accepted.
A common misconception is that leis are only for tourists or special occasions. In fact, leis are given at graduations, weddings, birthdays, funerals, anniversaries, luaus, and as everyday welcomes or farewells. Assuming a lei is a “tourist thing” misses the point entirely — it is a working tradition that continues to mark the most important moments in Hawaiian life. The version you receive at a hotel check-in may be simplified, but the practice itself is not.
When to give a lei is equally specific. Leis are appropriate at graduations, weddings, anniversaries, luaus, festivals, and as welcomes or farewells. They are also given at funerals, though the flower choice matters — white or muted colors are preferred, and fragrant flowers like plumeria are sometimes avoided because their sweetness can feel out of place. If you are attending a funeral and want to bring a lei, ask a local florist who understands the protocols.
If you receive a lei and want to keep it as a souvenir, press it between the pages of a heavy book, changing the paper every few days. For shell or fabric leis, store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Never throw a lei in the trash — in Hawaiian tradition, discarding a lei carelessly is seen as discarding the relationship it represents. Return it to the land by burying it or hanging it in a tree.
Learning these protocols is part of a broader effort to engage with Hawaiian culture on its own terms. For more on how language preservation intersects with cultural respect, read our guide to preserving the Hawaiian language.
Context and Comparison: How Lei Types Differ Across Cultures and Eras
Lei making is not a single practice but a family of related techniques that vary by region, era, and social context. The table below compares the major lei types still made today, with attention to who traditionally wore them and what their status is now.
| Lei Type | Primary Material | Traditional Wearer | Construction Time | Status Today |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lei hulu (feather) | Bird feathers (tied individually) | Aliʻi (chiefs) | Weeks to months | Rare; ceremonial only |
| Lei niho palaoa | Whale tooth pendant | Royalty | Varies (pendant carved) | Extremely rare; museum pieces |
| Lei pūpū (shell) | Small seashells | All classes (Niʻihau shells prized) | Days to weeks | Valued heirloom; sold as art |
| Lei hua (seed/nut) | Kukui nuts, seeds | All classes | Hours | Common; also used for medicine |
| Lei lau (leaf) | Maile, fern, ti leaves | All classes | 1–2 hours | Common; used in weddings and ceremonies |
| Lei pua (flower) | Fresh blossoms | All classes | 30 min–2 hours | Most common; both traditional and commercial |
| Lei ʻāʻī (fabric/ribbon) | Fabric, ribbon, yarn | Modern adaptation | 30 min–1 hour | Common in schools and craft fairs |
The distinction between “traditional” and “modern” leis is not as clear as it might seem. Fabric and ribbon leis, for example, emerged in the early 20th century as a way to include children and people with allergies in the practice. Some families now consider them every bit as meaningful as flower leis. The category “modern” is itself a contested label — what counts as authentic depends on who you ask.
- Lei making is a Polynesian tradition that arrived in Hawaiʻi more than 1,000 years ago and has evolved continuously since — it is not a static cultural artifact.
- Each island has a designated plant material, but these designations date largely to the 1920s and reflect territorial-era politics as much as ecology.
- Materials communicate specific meanings: plumeria for grace, maile for unity, feather for rank. Color and construction method add further layers.
- Workshops offer genuine cultural engagement if you seek out Native Hawaiian instructors rather than hotel-run activities.
- Etiquette is not optional — how you give, receive, wear, and dispose of a lei signals your respect for the relationship it represents.
Questions Readers Ask About Lei Making
Can anyone learn to make a lei, or is it reserved for Native Hawaiians?
Workshops across the islands welcome beginners of any background. Lei making is taught as a cultural practice, not a closed ritual. The key is to approach it with humility and to learn from a Native Hawaiian instructor when possible.
Some families do have private techniques passed down through generations, but the basic methods — stringing, weaving, tying — are widely shared. The question is not who can learn, but whether learners treat the practice with respect.
What is the significance of Lei Day, and is it still widely observed?
Lei Day (May 1) was officially recognized in 1929 and is still celebrated across the islands with events, workshops, and hula performances. The largest celebration is at Kapiʻolani Park on Oʻahu.
Some Native Hawaiian practitioners criticize Lei Day as a commercialized version of a sacred practice, while others defend it as a genuine expression of cultural pride. The debate itself is a reminder that traditions are never static.
How do I choose the right flower for a specific occasion?
White flowers (white plumeria, pikake) signal purity and respect — suitable for graduations, memorials, and formal events. Bright colors (yellow, pink, orange) suggest joy and celebration — good for birthdays, welcomes, and luaus.
If you are unsure, ask a local florist who understands Hawaiian customs. A simple maile lei is a safe choice for almost any occasion and carries the meaning of unity and friendship.
What should I do with a lei after the event is over?
Never throw a lei in the trash. In Hawaiian tradition, a lei represents the relationship between giver and receiver. Return it to the land: bury it, hang it in a tree, or press it in a book.
Shell and fabric leis can be stored in a cool, dry place and reused. If you want to preserve a flower lei, air-dry it or refrigerate it in a sealed bag, but understand that its beauty is partly in its impermanence.
Are leis only for tourists, or do locals still wear them?
Leis are a living tradition in Hawaiian communities. They are given at graduations, weddings, funerals, birthdays, and other milestones. The idea that leis are “only for tourists” is a misconception that stems from airport greetings and hotel check-ins.
What has changed is the scale: commercial lei making supplies the tourism industry, but the practice remains deeply meaningful for locals. The two coexist, sometimes uncomfortably.
The Thread That Connects: What Lei Making Teaches About Hawaiian Values
Lei making is not primarily about flowers. It is about reciprocity — the act of giving a part of yourself, woven into a physical form, and receiving it with the understanding that you are now connected to the giver. That connection is what the word aloha actually describes in practice: not a greeting or a feeling, but a mutual obligation to care for each other and for the land that provides the materials. When you make a lei, you are not just arranging petals. You are participating in a system of relationships that has sustained Hawaiian communities for centuries, and that continues to evolve under the pressures of tourism, commercialization, and cultural revival. For another Hawaiian craft tradition that weaves together history, identity, and resilience, read about Hawaiian quilting.
Sources and further reading
This Week Hawaii. “What Makes Hawaiian Lei So Special? Understanding Their History and Cultural Meaning.” 🔗
NPIFund. “Hawaiian Leis: Understanding Their Rich Tradition, Cultural Symbolism, and the Art of Lei Making.” 🔗
Mauka Warriors Luau. “Hawaiian Flowers and Lei: The Meaning Behind Lei Day in Hawaiʻi.” 🔗
Related reading on IslandHopperGuides
A Deep Dive into Hawaiian Storytelling: Moʻolelo Wisdom for Modern Travelers — Explores the oral tradition that carries many of the same cultural values embedded in lei making.
The Art of Tapa: Connecting Cultures in Hawaiʻi — Another plant-based craft tradition that reveals similar principles of sourcing, reciprocity, and cultural transmission.
Fire Knife Dancing: A Fiery Tradition of Hawaiian Heritage — A performance practice that, like lei making, blends skill, protocol, and cultural identity.
Preserving the Hawaiian Language: A Story of Resilience and Revival — Language preservation as a parallel effort to keep cultural practices like lei making alive.
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