Heiau hopping in Hawaii isn’t just about sightseeing; it’s a journey into the heart of Hawaiian culture, a chance to connect with the ‘āina (land) and the spirits of the past. These ancient temples, or heiau, were much more than just places of worship; they were centers of power, medicine, and community. Exploring them offers a tangible link to the rich history and enduring spiritual beliefs of the Hawaiian people. They hold profound significance, offering insights into a complex and sophisticated society that thrived for centuries.
Understanding Heiau: More Than Just Ruins
Before embarking on your heiau hopping adventure, it’s essential to understand what a heiau is and its purpose. Heiau were sacred sites ranging in size and function from simple family shrines to massive state temples dedicated to the war god Kū. They were constructed for various reasons: to ensure abundant harvests, heal the sick, bring success in war, or honor the ali’i (chiefs). The type of heiau dictated the rituals performed there, the offerings made, and the types of people who were allowed to enter. Some heiau were strictly off-limits to women and commoners. Imagine a complex system of spiritual infrastructure integral to the functioning of ancient Hawaiian society.
A Respectful Approach: Guidelines for Visitors
Visiting a heiau is not like visiting a typical tourist attraction. These are sacred sites, and it is crucial to approach them with respect and humility. Here are some guidelines:
Dress modestly: Avoid wearing revealing clothing. Think comfortable, respectful attire.
Ask permission: Before entering a heiau, it’s considered respectful to ask permission from the spirits of the place. A simple silent request is sufficient.
Be mindful of your actions: Avoid loud talking, running, or climbing on the walls. Treat the site with reverence.
Leave no trace: Pack out everything you pack in. Do not disturb or remove any rocks or artifacts.
Learn about the site: The more you know about the heiau’s history and significance, the deeper your connection will be.
Photography: While photography may be allowed, be mindful and respectful. Avoid using flash photography or drones without permission. It’s always considered polite, even mandatory for some locations, to ask if you can take pictures. If it’s a smaller, less visited heiau, check for signs indicating rules.
O’ahu: Navigating Ancient Power
O’ahu, the gathering place, offers a diverse range of heiau to explore. Let’s delve into some notable examples:
Pu’u o Mahuka Heiau State Historic Site: Situated on the North Shore, this is the largest heiau on O’ahu. Its commanding views offer spectacular panoramas of Waimea Bay. Pu’u o Mahuka played a key role in O’ahu’s history and likely involvement in human sacrifices. Explore the site respectfully, imagining the ceremonies that once took place here. The site is free to visit, and directions are easily accessible online. It’s recommended to go in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat.
Ulupō Heiau State Historic Site: Located near Kailua, Ulupō Heiau is associated with the Menehune, a legendary race of small people said to have built the heiau in a single night. This heiau is dedicated to agriculture and fertility. This site provides a glimpse into the agricultural practices of ancient Hawaiians. It is also free and easily accessible.
Kane’aki Heiau: Nestled in the lush Lū’au Garden of the Paradise Cove Lū’au on the west side of O’ahu, Kane’aki Heiau offers a unique blend of history and entertainment. Unlike the more remote heiau, Kane’aki is located within a commercial luau setting. This heiau was dedicated to Lono, the god of agriculture, peace, and prosperity. It’s been carefully restored and offers an interesting contrast to other heiau experiences. Of course, visiting this site will require purchasing a Paradise Cove Lū’au ticket. The price varies, so check their website for details. Be aware that your experience will be integrated with a large commercial lū’au, so if you’re seeking a purely solitary, reflective experience, this may not be the best choice.
Kūkaniloko Birthstones State Monument: While not a heiau in the traditional sense, this site holds immense spiritual significance as the royal birthing place for O’ahu ali’i. It is thought that chiefs sought that their child would be born on those stones to gain royal status. The site is open to the public and free to visit.
Maui: The Valley Isle’s Sacred Spaces
Maui, known as the Valley Isle, is home to some of the most impressive and historically significant heiau in Hawaii. The island’s rich history and diverse landscapes have fostered a vibrant spiritual landscape.
Pi’ilanihale Heiau: Located in the remote and beautiful northeastern corner of Maui in Kahanu Garden and part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden system, Pi’ilanihale Heiau is the largest heiau in Polynesia. This massive structure, dedicated to the god Lono, is a testament to the engineering capabilities and spiritual dedication of the ancient Hawaiians. To reach the heiau, you’ll need to pay an admission fee to Kahanu Garden (check their website for current pricing). The garden itself is worth exploring, adding to the overall experience. Consider wearing sturdy shoes for traversing the somewhat uneven terrain.
Haleki’i-Pihana Heiau State Monument: Overlooking the ‘Īao Valley, these twin heiau hold strategic importance. Haleki’i was restored to honor fertility and prosperity, while Pihana was used for sacrifices. Explore the structures and take in the panoramic views. This is a free site to visit but requires a short hike up a paved path. It offers stunning views of Iao Valley and is easily accessible from Wailuku.
Honokōhau Settlement: Located along the west Maui coast, the Honokōhau Settlement is an archaeological site that showcases a pre-contact Hawaiian village. It includes a heiau within the larger settlement. You can combine your heiau visit with an exploration of traditional Hawaiian life. It’s free to explore, but be prepared for a walk and potential sun exposure as there’s limited shade.
Hawai’i Island (Big Island): Volcanoes and Ancient Rites
The Big Island, with its active volcanoes and dramatic landscapes, is rich in heiau, reflecting a powerful connection to the natural world and the gods.
Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park (Place of Refuge): This is not strictly one heiau, but rather a complex of temples and sacred grounds. This incredible site served as a place of refuge for lawbreakers and defeated warriors. If someone could reach Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau, they would be granted sanctuary and absolved of their crimes. Exploring the heiau, the fishponds, and the reconstructed village offers a profound glimpse into ancient Hawaiian life and the concept of forgiveness. There’s an entrance fee to the National Historical Park (check the National Park Service website for updated pricing). Plan to spend several hours here to fully appreciate the site. Park rangers offer guided tours, which are highly recommended.
Mo’okini Heiau State Historic Site: Said to be one of the oldest and most sacred heiau in Hawaii, Mo’okini Heiau is associated with human sacrifice. Located on the northern tip of the Big Island, it offers breathtaking views but it can be windy. While exploring Mo’okini Heiau is free, getting there can be challenging. The road is unpaved and can be rough. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is highly recommended. Be prepared for a potentially bumpy ride.
Ahu’ena Heiau: Located in Kailua-Kona, Ahu’ena Heiau was rebuilt by King Kamehameha I and served as an important center for religious and political power. This well-preserved heiau offers insights into the reign of Kamehameha and the unification of the Hawaiian Islands. It is accessible within the grounds of the King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Although you can view it without being a guest, booking a tour will provide access to more areas and information.
Kaua’i: The Garden Isle’s Hidden Temples
Kaua’i, the Garden Isle, hides many ancient heiau amidst its lush landscapes. Exploring these sites offers a sense of discovery and connection to the island’s deep history.
Polihale Heiau: Located near the stunning Polihale State Park, this remote heiau overlooks the vast Pacific Ocean. This heiau is a powerful reminder of the connection between the Hawaiian people and the sea. Getting to Polihale requires navigating a long, unpaved road. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is highly recommended. This site offers a deeply immersive experience, far from the crowds.
Wai’ale’ale Heiau: While access to the summit of Mount Wai’ale’ale and the heiau is extremely difficult and often restricted due to weather and environmental concerns, understanding its significance is crucial. This mountain is one of the wettest places on Earth, and its sacredness is woven into Hawaiian mythology. While you may not be able to physically visit the heiau, learn about its importance in Hawaiian stories.
Heiau at Keahua Arboretum: The arboretum itself if located near Kapa’a, and features a few ancient heiau which have been preserved alongside more modern native Hawaiian structures. It’s free to enter and explore.
Tips for Planning Your Heiau Hopping Trip
1. Research: Before you go, research the heiau you plan to visit. Learn about their history, significance, and any specific rules or restrictions.
2. Check Accessibility: Some heiau are easily accessible, while others require hiking or driving on unpaved roads. Check the accessibility before you go and plan accordingly.
3. Pack Appropriately: Wear comfortable shoes, bring water and sunscreen, and pack a hat. Be prepared for sun, rain, or wind.
4. Respect the Land: Remember that these are sacred sites. Treat them with respect and leave no trace.
5. Engage with Local Culture: Consider taking a guided tour or attending a cultural event to learn more about the history and significance of heiau.
6. Check for Closures: Before heading out, check if the site is open to the public to avoid any disappointments. This is especially important if you are planning to visit during holidays.
Cost Considerations
The cost of heiau hopping varies greatly depending on the sites you choose to visit. Many heiau are free to access, particularly those maintained by state parks. However, some sites may require प्रवेश fee, like Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park or Kahanu Garden where the Pi’ilanihale lies hidden. Budget for transportation costs, especially if you need to rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle to reach remote locations. Also, consider the cost of guided tours, which can enrich your experience. Finally, be mindful of potential costs for accommodations and food, particularly if you are traveling to different islands or remote areas.
Understanding Kapu
The ancient Hawaiian concept of kapu (sacred, forbidden) played a crucial role in managing resources and maintaining social order. Kapu governed access to certain places, things, and activities, protecting them from misuse and ensuring their sustainability. Heiau were often governed by strict kapu, restricting access to certain individuals or during specific times. While the formal kapu system was abolished in 1819, its underlying principles of respect, responsibility, and conservation remain relevant today. When visiting heiau, it’s important to be mindful of the spirit of kapu and to act in a way that honors the sacredness of the place.
Impact of Western Contact
With Western contact came significant changes to Hawaiian society, including the decline and abandonment of many heiau. The introduction of new diseases, the overthrow of the monarchy, and the suppression of traditional practices all contributed to the erosion of Hawaiian culture. Many heiau were neglected, vandalized, or even repurposed for other uses. However, in recent decades, there has been a growing movement to preserve and restore heiau, to revitalize Hawaiian culture, and to reconnect with the spiritual heritage of the islands. By visiting these sites and learning about their history, you can contribute to this important effort.
The Significance of Mana
Mana is a powerful spiritual force believed to reside in all things, living and non-living. Heiau were considered to be places of concentrated mana, where the connection between the earthly realm and the spiritual realm was strongest. The presence of mana imbued heiau with their power and sacredness. Ancient Hawaiians believed that the proper rituals and offerings could enhance mana and bring blessings to the community. Take your time, and soak it all in. Feel the mana, if you’re open to it.
FAQ Section
What is the best time of year to visit heiau in Hawaii?
The best time to visit heiau in Hawaii is during the shoulder seasons, spring (April-May) and fall (September-October). The weather is generally pleasant, and the crowds are smaller than during the peak summer and winter months. However, you can visit heiau year-round, as the climate in Hawaii is relatively stable. Just be prepared for potential rain showers, especially in the mountains.
Are there any guided tours of heiau?
Yes, there are a number of guided tours of heiau offered on different islands. These tours can provide valuable insights into the history, significance, and cultural context of the sites. Check with local tour operators or cultural centers to find a tour that suits your interests and budget. National Parks also offer guided tours for a more enriching experience.
Is it okay to take souvenirs from heiau?
No. Taking anything from a heiau is considered disrespectful and is strongly discouraged. These sites are sacred, and removing anything, even a small rock, robs the place of its integrity, its mana, and its history. Admire the beauty and significance of the heiau, but leave everything where you found it.
What should I do if I see someone disrespecting a heiau?
If you see someone disrespecting a heiau, the best course of action is to politely and respectfully explain the significance of the site and the importance of treating it with reverence. If the person continues to be disrespectful, you can report the incident to local authorities or park rangers.
Are there any heiau that are off-limits to visitors?
Yes, some heiau are off-limits to visitors due to their fragile condition, cultural sensitivity, or private ownership. Always respect posted signs and boundaries, and do not enter any area that is marked as restricted. If you are unsure about access to a particular heiau, check with local authorities or cultural centers.
References
Kirch, P. V. (2010). How Chiefs Became Kings: Divine Kingship and Social Evolution on the Hawaiian Islands. University of California Press.
Kamakau, S. M. (1976). The Works of the People of Old: Na Hana a ka Po’e Kahiko. Bishop Museum Press.
National Park Service. (n.d.). Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park. Retrieved from (https://www.nps.gov/puho/index.htm)
Sterling, E. P., & Summers, C. C. (1978). Sites of Oahu. Bishop Museum Press.
Ready to Embark on Your Heiau Journey?
Exploring Hawaii’s heiau is more than just a sightseeing trip. It’s an opportunity to connect with the soul of the islands, to understand the depth and complexity of Hawaiian culture, and to honor the legacy of the ancestors. Plan your trip, do your research, and approach these sacred sites with respect and humility. You’ll be rewarded with a deeper understanding of Hawaii and a renewed appreciation for the enduring power of the ‘āina.