The Big Island of Hawaii offers a truly unique experience, and at its heart lies Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. It’s one of the few places globally where you can safely witness active volcanoes. The island is home to four, but Kilauea, the youngest, is the star attraction, known for its spectacular and often consistent shows.
Volcanoes National Park
While Mauna Loa and Kilauea are both within the park, most visitor experiences center around Kilauea. It used to offer fairly predictable lava flows from 1984 to 2018, making it easy to see from various vantage points—hiking, by boat, or even from a helicopter. Since 2018, its activity has become less predictable, with some periods of incredible displays and others with very little surface activity.
Recent Volcanic Activity
In December 2024, Kilauea began a series of “fountaining episodes,” dramatic bursts of lava shooting into the air. These episodes typically last less than twelve hours and occur about once a week. For instance, episode 35 recently concluded on October 18th. When these fountaining events happen, they are usually contained within a specific viewing area, which can lead to significant crowds. If you plan to visit during an active episode, be prepared for potentially hours-long waits to enter the park. You might also need to walk a considerable distance to the viewing spots, so dressing in layers, including warm clothing, is essential, especially if you’ll be there after dark. If you’re not keen on waiting or “camping out” in the cold, it might be best to avoid the park on these days altogether. Always check with the National Park Service for the latest updates and follow their guidance.
Park Exploration
Beyond the main eruptions, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is brimming with other natural wonders. My recent visit focused on revisiting favorite spots, discovering new ones, and gathering details to help you plan your own adventure. The park is literally “alive,” and what you see can change in an instant.
Getting There and Around
When I visited from Kona, I opted for an early start, leaving around 4:00 AM. While I initially drove south on Highway 19, I’d now recommend taking Saddle Road across the island. It’s a more straightforward drive with easier conditions, and since you’re traveling in the dark anyway, the scenic views won’t be missed. The drive takes roughly the same amount of time.
Arriving at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park around 6:15 AM, I was eager to see the crater glow. Since the entrance station wasn’t open yet, it took a little figuring out. The best spot for viewing the glow is Kilauea Overlook at the end of Crater Rim Drive. Unfortunately, the crater had stopped glowing the day before my arrival, and the eruption officially ceased the following day. Still, the sight of steam rising from the crater was beautiful. For the best view of a lava lake in Halemaʻumaʻu crater at Kilauea’s summit, plan to visit when it’s dark, either before sunrise or after sunset.
After spending about 30 minutes at the overlook, I headed back towards Volcano House, stopping briefly at the steam vents along the way.
Volcano House and Breakfast
Around 7:00 AM, I stopped at Volcano House, the park’s original lodge, for breakfast. It offers a glimpse into the past, with a feel of a grand, historic national park lodge. While I didn’t stay overnight this time, the proximity to the park might make it appealing during a spectacular eruption. The buffet breakfast, at around $24 per person including a drink, was surprisingly good, especially the omelet bar, though some items like the waffles weren’t very warm. I enjoyed the chance to relax after the early start and the long drive. It’s worth noting how quickly the weather can change here; clouds rolled in and obscured the crater view while I was eating.
Exploring the lodge’s lobby and hallways, I discovered the historic men’s steam room. Built in 1941, it once utilized natural steam vents below, but an earthquake in 1984 shifted the vents, and the rooms have been closed since. The views from Volcano House are similar to Kilauea Overlook, just from a different angle.
Thurston Lava Tube
By 8:00 AM, I was heading to the Thurston Lava Tube, a popular spot within the park. Arriving early paid off, as parking was still readily available. This 500-year-old lava tube, discovered in 1913, is a highlight. Formed by underground rivers of molten lava, it’s essentially a long cave left behind when the lava recedes. The tube is lit from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM; otherwise, a flashlight is needed. The walk through the tube itself takes only about 15 minutes, but the surrounding paved pathway through the lush, tropical rainforest, filled with ferns and bird songs, is a beautiful part of the experience.
Scenic Drives and Overlooks
My exploration continued at 8:30 AM with a stop at the Puʻupuaʻi overlook and a short walk down Devastation Trail, which had been a viewing point for the Mauna Loa eruption. By 8:45 AM, I turned onto Chain of Craters Road, a route that winds down to the coast, showcasing numerous craters and lava flows from past eruptions, all clearly marked with their eruption years.
While the road offers many points of interest, I focused on enjoying the sweeping views. I made a stop at the Kealakomo viewing platform, where the landscape opens up, offering expansive vistas of the island. I was fortunate to see a rainbow, which made the earlier cold weather feel worthwhile. The drive concludes at the ocean, where the Holei Sea Arch stands. Beyond the arch, the road is blocked by a lava flow. A short walk past the barricade leads to the sea arch, offering opportunities to observe different lava flow patterns and scenic lookout points.
Back to the Rim and Visitor Center
By 10:15 AM, I was back at the upper section of the park and stopped at the Kilauea Iki overlook. Walking a portion of the Crater Rim Trail provided more impressive views. For those with more time, hiking down to the crater floor on the Kilauea Iki trail is highly recommended and takes about an hour to an hour and a half. If parking is tight at Kilauea Iki overlook, using the Thurston lava tube parking for the trailhead offers a shorter approach.
My visit to the park concluded around 11:00 AM with a stop at the visitor center, which I missed on my initial early arrival. It’s a great place to pick up National Park Passport stamps and browse merchandise. Ranger programs are also often scheduled here. By 11:45 AM, as I was leaving, I saw a very long line of cars waiting to enter the park, reinforcing the benefit of an early start.
Beyond the Park
After spending nearly six hours in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, I felt I had a good overview, though more time could easily be spent hiking or exploring areas like the Sulfur Banks. If heading back towards Kona, you have a couple of options: drive north to Hilo for lunch and waterfalls before returning via Saddle Road, or head south to Punaluʻu Beach to see the black sand and turtles, potentially visiting the green sand beach at Papakōlea, and then drive back along the coast. I chose the southern route for this itinerary.
Southern Coastal Drive
If you opt for the southern route, make sure to visit Punaluʻu Beach for its dramatic black sand and the chance to see sea turtles. For lunch, Hana Hou in Naʻalehu is a good option, but note that it’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Visiting the green sand beach requires a significant hike, so a shuttle service, if available, is recommended to make it logistically feasible within a single day.
Planning Your Visit
If the crater isn’t actively glowing, seeing it in daylight is still beautiful, and an early start helps avoid crowds. Consider a sunset visit if a 4:00 AM departure isn’t for you. Don’t miss the Sulfur Banks, located near the visitor center, as they are an easily accessible attraction.
For food, pack a picnic lunch or explore food trucks in the nearby town of Volcano, as dining options within the park are limited to Volcano House. If you have the time, the Kilauea Iki trail hike is a must-do. Always monitor current volcanic conditions; sometimes, the best viewing spots are outside the park, but park rangers will provide the most up-to-date information for viewing within the park boundaries. Remember, viewing lava from a distance is always more impressive in the dark, so if planning for nighttime viewing, bring warm clothing, blankets, and flashlights.
What to Wear
The main area of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is at a higher elevation, making it cooler than the coastal areas. The weather can be rainy, windy, and chilly, especially after dark. I found that layering was key. When I started my day around 6:00 AM at the crater, I wore sweatpants, a t-shirt, a flannel shirt, a packable puffer coat with a hood, and thick socks with sandals. I was comfortable standing outdoors, though a hat and gloves would have been welcome. The temperature was around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, but the wind and rain made it feel colder. For comparison, it’s not as cold as a Haleakala sunrise or Mauna Kea summit. As the day warmed up, especially as I drove down Chain of Craters Road toward the ocean where the elevation drops, I shed layers. By the time I reached the sea arch, I was comfortable in just my flannel shirt. Later, back at the main park area with steady rain, a rain jacket was sufficient. By the time I left, pants and a t-shirt or even shorts would have been fine. Comfortable, waterproof walking or hiking shoes are also essential.
What are the best times to see Kilauea erupt?
The most spectacular views of Kilauea’s lava lake are typically seen when it’s dark, so aim for a visit just before sunrise or after sunset. Recent “fountaining episodes” can also be very dramatic, but these are unpredictable and can lead to large crowds.
What should I pack for a day trip to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park?
Layers are crucial. Bring a base layer, a mid-layer like a fleece or flannel, and a waterproof and windproof outer jacket. Comfortable walking shoes, a hat, gloves, and possibly a scarf are advisable, especially if visiting during cooler morning or evening hours. Don’t forget a reusable water bottle and snacks, as food options inside the park are limited.
Explore Places to Stay
Feel free to zoom in and out of the map to explore the area and find the best place to stay for your trip.