Beyond Surfing: Exploring the Ancient Hawaiian Sport of He’e Nalu
Heʻe nalu — the Hawaiian art of wave-sliding — is often reduced to a single word in English: surfing. But the sport that now draws millions to coastlines worldwide began as a deeply spiritual, class-bound practice reserved for Hawaiian aliʻi (chiefs), governed by kapu (sacred laws), and accompanied by chants, rituals, and offerings. This article traces heʻe nalu from its origins in pre-contact Hawaiʻi through its near-erasure after Western contact, its 20th-century revival, and the ongoing efforts to reclaim its cultural roots in a globalized sport. In the early 1900s in San Mateo, California, three young aliʻi — princes