The first time you round the corner into Virgin Gorda’s The Baths, the scale of the granite boulders catches you off guard. House-sized rocks, stacked like a giant’s forgotten game of marbles, create a maze of grottos and tide pools that feels more like a natural sculpture park than a beach. It’s the kind of place that sets the tone for a week of island hopping in the British Virgin Islands — a chain where each island has a distinct personality, and the water between them is as much a part of the journey as the land.
The British Virgin Islands span roughly 60 islands and cays, with Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, and Anegada forming the core of most itineraries.
This guide covers a 7-day sailing route that hits the four main islands, with options for ferry travelers and families. It’s built for first-time visitors who want a balanced mix of iconic stops, quiet anchorages, and local food — without packing every hour full. If you’re traveling with kids, I’ve included the pacing and logistics that worked for us when Michael, Lily, and Ethan joined a similar trip.
A 7-day BVI itinerary works best when you treat the boat as your hotel and let the Sir Francis Drake Channel be your highway. The route below covers the essentials without feeling rushed, but be honest about your group’s tolerance for daily sailing — not every island is a short hop.
First-time BVI visitors
Sailing or charter groups
Families with older kids (8+)
Before diving into the day-by-day, here’s a quick overview of the main stops and what each offers.
| Day | Where You’re Going | What You’re Doing | Time Needed | Key Tip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tortola to Virgin Gorda | The Baths, Devil’s Bay, Spanish Town | Full day | Moor at Devil’s Bay before 10 a.m. to avoid the cruise ship crowds |
| 2 | Virgin Gorda to Anegada | Loblolly Bay, Flamingo Point, lobster dinner | Full day + overnight | Book a mooring ball at Setting Point in advance — space is limited |
| 3 | Anegada to Trellis Bay, Tortola | Dog Islands snorkel, Aragorn’s Studio, full moon party (if timing aligns) | Full day | Pick up provisions at Trellis Bay Market before heading west |
| 4 | Tortola to Jost Van Dyke | Monkey Point, White Bay, Soggy Dollar Bar | Full day | Anchor at the east end of White Bay for calmer water overnight |
| 5 | Jost Van Dyke to Norman Island | Smuggler’s Cove, The Bight, Willie T | Full day | Snorkel the reef at the eastern edge of The Bight before the afternoon wind picks up |
| 6 | Norman Island to Brandywine Bay | Little Harbour (Peter Island), Brandywine Estate dinner | Half-day sailing + evening | Reserve a mooring ball at Brandywine Bay early — it fills by late afternoon |
| 7 | Brandywine Bay to Scrub Island | East End Bay, Scrub Island Resort | Half-day sailing | Clear customs at Scrub Island if flying out of Tortola the next morning |
Day 1: Tortola to Virgin Gorda — The Baths and Devil’s Bay
Most BVI trips start on Tortola, the largest island and the main entry point via the Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport on Beef Island. From there, you’ll sail east across the Sir Francis Drake Channel toward Virgin Gorda. The crossing takes roughly 90 minutes under power, a bit longer under sail, and the channel is well-marked with buoys.
If you’re chartering from the U.S. Virgin Islands, stop at Soper’s Hole on Tortola’s west end for customs clearance. The marina has pastel-colored buildings with a small grocery and a few shops. Allow 45 minutes for the process. If you’re starting from Tortola, pick up provisions at the Rite Way supermarket in Road Town — it’s the largest on the island.
Head for the southern tip of Virgin Gorda, where The Baths sit. Moor at Devil’s Bay — the National Parks Trust maintains mooring balls here, and anchoring is prohibited. The swim ashore is short, and the trail through the boulders takes about 45 minutes to explore fully. Go early: cruise ship tenders start arriving around 11 a.m.
A short walk from the top of The Baths trail, Mad Dog Cafe serves burgers, sandwiches, and cold drinks. It’s basic — picnic tables, no frills — but the location saves you from packing a lunch. Expect to spend around $15–20 per person.
From The Baths, sail north along Virgin Gorda’s west coast to Spanish Town. The Yacht Harbour offers full facilities — showers, laundry, and fuel. Dinner at CocoMaya is a 10-minute walk from the marina and serves Asian-Caribbean fusion. Reservations recommended on weekends.
If you’re short on time, skip the hike to Gorda Peak on this day and save your energy for Anegada. The Baths alone are worth the stop, and the kids in our group spent more time scrambling between boulders than we expected — pack water shoes.
Day 2: Virgin Gorda to Anegada — Lobster and Flamingos
Anegada is the outlier of the BVI — flat, coral-based, and surrounded by the Horseshoe Reef, one of the largest barrier reefs in the Caribbean. The sail from Spanish Town takes about two to three hours, passing the Dog Islands along the way. Unlike the volcanic peaks of the other islands, Anegada rises only about 28 feet above sea level, so you’ll spot it by the color change in the water rather than a skyline.
On the way north, stop at Saba Rock, a private island resort between Virgin Gorda and the Dog Islands. The restaurant serves lunch and the snorkeling off the beach is decent. Mooring balls are available on a first-come basis. If you’re on a tight schedule, skip this and push straight to Anegada.
Setting Point is the main mooring area on Anegada’s south shore. The BVI National Parks Trust manages the moorings, and you’ll need to pay a fee — typically around $30 per night. Space is limited, so calling ahead on VHF channel 16 is smart during peak season (December to April).
Rent a golf cart or taxi on the island to reach Flamingo Point, where you can spot Caribbean flamingos in the salt ponds. Loblolly Bay, on the north shore, has a wide beach and good snorkeling on the reef. The water is shallow and clear — ideal for kids who are still building confidence in the ocean.
Anegada is famous for its spiny lobster, often called the best in the Caribbean. Several restaurants near Setting Point serve it grilled with butter and sides. Expect to pay around $30–40 per lobster. The island’s conch fritters are also a solid bet.
Anegada’s isolation is its biggest draw and its biggest limitation. There are no large supermarkets, and the mooring field fills up fast. If you can’t get a spot, consider anchoring off Loblolly Bay, though the holding ground is sand and can be less secure in a swell.
Day 3: Anegada to Trellis Bay, Tortola
The sail back south from Anegada takes you past the Dog Islands again, which are worth a stop for snorkeling. The underwater terrain here is rocky with coral heads, and you’ll often see sea turtles grazing on seagrass. From the Dog Islands, curve around the east end of Tortola into Trellis Bay.
Anchor off the western side of the largest Dog Island. The reef drops off quickly, so keep an eye on currents. Snorkeling here is best in the morning before the wind picks up. Allow about an hour.
Trellis Bay has fewer mooring balls than it did before Hurricane Irma, so arrive by early afternoon. The bay is protected and calm. Onshore, you’ll find Aragorn’s Studio, an arts center with metal sculptures and a small gallery, and the Loose Mongoose Café for casual food.
The market here is small but well-stocked with basics — produce, canned goods, beer, and wine. It’s a good spot to restock before heading west. If you’re visiting during a full moon, the Trellis Bay full moon party features fire dancers and local food stalls.
If you’re not interested in the arts scene, you can skip Trellis Bay and sail directly to Jost Van Dyke, but the reprovisioning stop is useful if you’re running low on supplies.
Day 4: Tortola to Jost Van Dyke — White Bay and Soggy Dollar Bar
Jost Van Dyke is the smallest of the main BVI islands, but it punches above its weight in beach-bar culture. White Bay, on the south shore, is the main draw — a long stretch of white sand lined with casual spots. The sail from Trellis Bay takes you west past Little Camanoe and Guana Island, with a stop at Monkey Point for snorkeling.
Monkey Point is the southernmost tip of Guana Island, an ecological preserve. The National Parks Trust maintains a mooring buoy here — anchoring is prohibited. The snorkeling is excellent, with coral formations and a variety of reef fish. Allow 30–45 minutes.
White Bay has a sandy bottom with good holding. Anchor toward the east end for calmer water overnight. The beach is public, and you can dinghy ashore directly. The Soggy Dollar Bar, famous for inventing the Painkiller cocktail, is at the western end of the bay.
Besides Soggy Dollar, you’ll find several other bars and restaurants along the beach. Foxy’s Taboo serves food and drinks at the eastern end. The vibe is relaxed — expect reggae music, sand floors, and a mix of cruisers and day-trippers.
White Bay can get crowded on weekends and during cruise ship days. If you prefer quieter surroundings, anchor at Great Harbour on the north side of the island, where Foxy’s Bar is located. The water is less calm, but you’ll have more space.
Order a Painkiller at Soggy Dollar Bar before 4 p.m. — the bar gets packed after that, and the wait for drinks can stretch to 20 minutes during high season.
Day 5: Jost Van Dyke to Norman Island — Caves and a Floating Bar
Norman Island, at the southern edge of the BVI, is known for its sea caves and its association with Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. The sail from Jost Van Dyke takes you south past Tortola’s West End, with a stop at Smuggler’s Cove for lunch.
Smuggler’s Cove is a quiet beach on Tortola’s southwest tip with a couple of casual restaurants. It’s a good spot for a swim and a cheap lunch — roti and fish sandwiches run around $10–12. The beach is less developed than others, so don’t expect lounge chairs or umbrellas.
The Bight is a large, protected harbor on Norman Island’s north side. The holding is good in sand, and the National Parks Trust maintains mooring balls. The reef at the eastern edge of the harbor offers decent snorkeling — swim out early before the wind stirs up the water.
The sea caves at Norman Island’s western tip are accessible by dinghy. Go at low tide when the water is calmest. Later, the Willie T, a floating bar and restaurant moored in The Bight, is a social hub. It serves food and drinks, and the atmosphere is lively — not ideal for young kids after dark.
Norman Island is one of the busier anchorages in the BVI. If you want a quieter evening, skip the Willie T and anchor at Privateer Bay on the island’s south side — it’s less protected but far more peaceful.
Day 6: Norman Island to Brandywine Bay — Peter Island and a Fine Dinner
Day six is lighter on sailing, with a short hop to Little Harbour on Peter Island and then across the channel to Brandywine Bay on Tortola’s south coast. This day is designed for a relaxed pace and a special dinner.
Little Harbour is a quiet anchorage on the southeast side of Peter Island. Ashore, you’ll find the ruins of an abandoned cigar factory and a few 1920s-era mansions. The trail is short and easy — good for stretching your legs after days on the water.
Brandywine Bay is a small, protected bay on Tortola’s south side, just east of Road Town. The mooring field is managed by the Brandywine Estate Restaurant, and you’ll need to reserve a ball in advance — the bay fills quickly, especially on weekends.
The restaurant sits on a hill overlooking the channel and serves French-Caribbean cuisine. The lobster thermidor and moules marinière are popular choices. Mains run around $30–50. The terrace has views of the Sir Francis Drake Channel — arrive before sunset to catch the light.
If Brandywine Bay is full, head to Road Town instead. The mooring field there is larger, and you can eat at one of the restaurants in town, though the setting is less dramatic.
Day 7: Brandywine Bay to Scrub Island — Final Sail and Celebration
The last day is a short sail east along Tortola’s south coast to Scrub Island, a private island resort with a marina, spa, and several restaurants. It’s a fitting end to the trip — comfortable, polished, and easy for clearing customs if you’re flying out the next morning.
East End Bay, near Parham Town, has a few casual spots for lunch. It’s also a good place to spot yachts anchored off the coast. Allow an hour for a quick meal.
Scrub Island Resort and Spa has a full-service marina with power, water, and fuel. Mooring fees are higher here — expect around $100–150 per night for a 40-foot boat. The resort’s restaurant serves dinner on a terrace overlooking the water.
If you’re flying out of Tortola the next morning, clear customs at Scrub Island’s office. The process takes about 30 minutes. The resort can also arrange a taxi to the airport.
If your budget doesn’t stretch to Scrub Island, moor at Trellis Bay instead — it’s a 15-minute taxi ride to the airport and the fees are significantly lower.
Practical Tips for Island Hopping the BVI
Getting the logistics right makes the difference between a smooth trip and a stressful one. Here’s what to prioritize.
Getting Between Islands
The most common way to island hop in the BVI is by chartering a sailboat or catamaran. Bareboat charters (no skipper) require a sailing resume or a charter certification. If you’re not comfortable handling a boat yourself, skippered charters are widely available and cost roughly $250–400 per day for the skipper, plus the boat fee. Ferries also connect the main islands — Tortola to Virgin Gorda takes about 30 minutes and costs around $30 per person one way — but they run on fixed schedules and won’t reach Anegada as easily.
Booking Windows and Costs
High season runs from December through April, when weather is driest and winds are most consistent. Charter prices peak during this period — a 40-foot catamaran can run $4,000–7,000 per week. Low season (May to November) offers lower rates but brings higher humidity and the risk of tropical storms. Mooring balls at popular spots like The Baths and The Bight cost around $30 per night and can’t be reserved in advance — arrive early to claim one.
What to Pack for a Sailing Trip
Space on a boat is limited, so pack light. Reef-safe sunscreen, a rash guard, water shoes, and a dry bag are essentials. If you’re prone to seasickness, bring medication — the channel between islands can get choppy in the afternoon. For families, a small underwater camera or action camera is worth the space; the kids in our group loved reviewing the snorkeling footage each evening.
Afternoon winds in the Sir Francis Drake Channel regularly pick up to 15–20 knots between December and April. If you’re prone to seasickness, plan your longer crossings — like the sail to Anegada — for the morning when the water is flattest.
- Book your charter and mooring balls well in advance for December–April travel — availability drops sharply during high season.
- Prioritize The Baths and Anegada as non-negotiable stops; everything else can be adjusted based on weather and energy levels.
- Pack for the boat, not the beach — limited storage means every item should serve at least two purposes.
Before You Go: BVI Island Hopping Questions Answered
Do I need a passport for the British Virgin Islands?
Yes. All visitors need a valid passport with at least six months of validity remaining. U.S. citizens don’t need a visa for stays up to 30 days, but you’ll go through customs and immigration upon arrival.
Is the BVI safe for families with kids?
Generally, yes. The islands are low-crime compared to many Caribbean destinations, and the sailing community is tight-knit. The main risks are sun exposure and water safety — keep life jackets on younger kids during crossings and reef-safe sunscreen on everyone.
Can I island hop without a boat?
Yes, but you’ll be limited to Tortola, Virgin Gorda, and Jost Van Dyke. Ferries run regularly between these islands. Anegada is harder to reach without a charter — the ferry from Tortola runs only a few times per week and books up fast.
What’s the one thing not worth the hype?
The Willie T on Norman Island is fun for a drink, but the food is average and the crowd can be rowdy. If you’re traveling with kids or looking for a quiet evening, skip it and cook on board instead.
Why the BVI Rewards the People Who Show Up Prepared
The British Virgin Islands aren’t a spontaneous destination — at least not if you want to see more than one island. The logistics of mooring balls, provisioning, and weather windows require advance planning. But that preparation pays off in a way that all-inclusive resorts can’t match. You trade the convenience of a poolside bar for the freedom to anchor in a quiet bay, cook your own catch, and wake up to a different view each morning. For our family, that trade was worth every bit of planning.
If you’re still deciding on the details, the guide to seven secret beaches in the BVI covers quieter alternatives to the main stops that pair well with this itinerary.
References
JetMunk. “Island Hopping in the British Virgin Islands: The Ultimate Itinerary.” JetMunk, 2024. ↗
The Culture Trip. “How to Spend 7 Days Island Hopping Around the British Virgin Islands.” The Culture Trip, 2024. ↗
Sailing Barefoot Cowboy. “7 Day Charter Itinerary.” Sailing Barefoot Cowboy, 2024. ↗
If you’re looking for more detail on specific islands, the guide to Tortola’s hidden gems digs into lesser-known spots on the main island. For families watching their budget, BVI on a budget covers affordable accommodation and free activities that work well alongside a sailing trip.
Explore Places to Stay in BVI
Feel free to zoom in and out of the map to explore the area and find the best place to stay for your trip.