Rum Runners’ Route: Following the History and Flavors of BVI’s Spirit

Embark on a spirited journey through the British Virgin Islands (BVI) and retrace the steps of daring rum runners! This involves exploring historic landmarks, savoring local rums, and immersing yourself in the vibrant culture. This guide provides a detailed route, revealing the secrets and flavors of BVI’s rum heritage.

The Golden Age of Smuggling and its Spots in BVI

The era of Prohibition in the United States, from 1920 to 1933, transformed the tranquil islands of the BVI into a hotbed of illicit activity. With alcohol outlawed stateside, entrepreneurial individuals saw a lucrative opportunity in supplying thirsty Americans with Caribbean rum. The BVI’s strategic location, numerous secluded coves, and proximity to the US made it the perfect staging ground for rum smuggling operations. Picture fast boats laden with Caribbean spirits dodging the authorities under the cloak of darkness – it’s an adventurous history indeed!

The local population was significantly impacted by the rum-running trade. BVI residents found employment as sailors, navigators, and dockworkers, dramatically increasing the islands’ cash flow. The era brought prosperity but also moral dilemmas, as the community balanced the allure of easy money with the awareness of illegal activities. Buildings and infrastructure were constructed, some of which still stand today, that had links to this era. It’s not always marked on tour guides, so asking locals or doing proper research is a plus here. One story has it that some parts had secret cellars where “business” was taken care of and goods were hidden from the authorities.

Following the Rum Runners’ Route: Key Spots and Experiences

Let’s dive into some of the key spots in the BVI where you can relive this fascinating history and sample the flavors of rum.

Tortola: The Hub of Operations

Tortola, the largest of the BVI islands, was at the heart of rum-running activity. Road Town, the capital, was a bustling port where ships loaded and unloaded their cargo. Head to the Callwood Rum Distillery, one of the oldest continuously operating pot distilleries in the Caribbean. Here, you can witness the traditional rum-making process firsthand, using methods that have remained largely unchanged for centuries. The Callwood Distillery provides tours and tastings, allowing you to sample their unique rums. Be sure to try their signature “Aged Rum”. The taste is different because they use old methods that create stronger flavors that are not seen in the mass production distilleries. For directions, simply search “Callwood Rum Distillery directions” on Google Maps or ask your hotel concierge. The tours are usually around $10–$15 per person.

Another great spot in Tortola is Cane Garden Bay. During the Rum Running Era it was a popular spot to hide ships and now it is a hot tourist location due to the bars near its gorgeous beach. Several bars and restaurants line the beach, offering a variety of rum-based cocktails. Stop by Quito’s Gazebo for live music and a laid-back atmosphere or enjoy a Painkiller at Myett’s Garden and Grill. The Painkiller cocktail is a well-known trademarked beverage invented on nearby Jost Van Dyke. It is a must-drink for any rum enthusiast.

Practical Tip: Consider renting a car for at least a day to explore Tortola’s various rum-related sites. Rental cars are readily available at the airport and in Road Town. Prices typically range from $40 to $60 per day. Alternatively, you can hire a taxi or arrange for private transportation.

Jost Van Dyke: The Party Island

Jost Van Dyke is a small island that played a significant role in the rum smuggling trade. Its secluded bays and coves provided ideal hiding places for ships. Today, it’s famous for its beach bars and lively atmosphere. The real highlight is The Soggy Dollar Bar on White Bay. This iconic bar is said to be the birthplace of the Painkiller cocktail, a delicious blend of Pusser’s Rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, cream of coconut, and grated nutmeg and trademarked. The name “Soggy Dollar” comes from the fact that patrons often swim ashore from their boats, paying for their drinks with wet dollar bills. The Soggy Dollar Bar is famous for its relaxed attitude and the sheer beauty of White Bay. Expect to spend around $10-$12 for a Painkiller. The Pusser’s Rum shop in Road Town on Tortola showcases the history of Pusser’s Rum and its ties to the British Navy, and is worth a short visit. If you are a rum enthusiast it’s a cool place to purchase Pusser’s Rum.

Practical Tip: Take a ferry from Tortola to Jost Van Dyke. The ferry ride takes about 20-30 minutes. Be sure to check the ferry schedule in advance, as they may vary depending on the season. You can usually book a ferry for around $35 with return.

Another popular bar on Jost Van Dyke is Foxy’s Tamarind Bar. Foxy’s is famous for its New Year’s Eve parties, but it’s worth visiting any time of year. They offer a range of rum drinks and often have live music. Foxy himself is a local legend and you should consider yourself lucky If you get the chance to meet him. Its long history comes from Foxy being a prominent figure in the local music community. He also has knowledge of the local folklore surrounding the island.

Norman Island: Treasure Island and Smugglers’ Caves

Norman Island is believed to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel Treasure Island, and it’s easy to see why. The island features several hidden coves and caves that were once used by pirates and, later, rum runners. The Caves at Treasure Point are a popular snorkeling and diving spot. While snorkeling or diving you can imagine the rum runners hiding their contraband in these very spots. Today, the caves are home to colorful marine life, so don’t forget your underwater camera.

The William Thornton Floating Bar and Restaurant (also known as “The Willy T”) is permanently moored off Norman Island. It is a unique and iconic bar. While not directly tied to the history of rum running, its proximity to the caves and its party atmosphere make it a must-visit for anyone exploring the area. The Willy T is known for its lively (and sometimes raucous) atmosphere. Patrons come to enjoy the drinks and jump off the top deck. The drinks are typically around $8-12.

Practical Tip: Rent a boat or join a boat tour to explore Norman Island. Many tours include snorkeling or diving at The Caves and a stop at The Willy T. Boat rentals typically start around $200-$300 per day, plus fuel.

Anegada: The Hidden Gem

Anegada, a flat coral island distinct from the volcanic islands of the BVI, with its remote location and hidden anchorages made it a perfect spot to land and hide shipments. Today, it is a paradise for scuba divers and nature lovers. While Anegada may not have specific rum-related historical sites, its isolation made it a favored location for secretive activities.

Cow Wreck Beach Bar, located on the North shore of Anegada, is a great spot to relax and enjoy a rum punch. (Consider that “rum punch” is a very broad term. Every bar has its own version.) Known for its laid-back atmosphere and stunning views, this bar is a must-visit on Anegada. The name “Cow Wreck” comes from a shipwreck filled with cow bones that washed ashore long ago.

Practical Tip: Fly or take a ferry from Tortola to Anegada. Flights are available from Beef Island Airport (EIS) and are the quickest way to get there (approximately a 15-minute flight). Ferries are more affordable but take longer (approximately 1.5-2 hours). Ferry tickets are around $30.

Understanding BVI Rum: A Taste of the Islands

No rum runner’s route is complete without appreciating the local rums. BVI rum is more than just a drink—it’s a part of the island’s heritage. Here’s what to look for: Callwood Rum offers a taste of tradition, distilled using techniques passed down for generations. Brands like Pusser’s Rum have a strong historical connection to the British Royal Navy and were often consumed in the region. If you prefer cocktails, be sure to try the Painkiller on Jost Van Dyke and other local variations on classic rum drinks.

When purchasing rum, be mindful of the local laws regarding alcohol export. There may be restrictions on the quantity of alcohol you can bring back to your home country. Ask at the local shops when in doubt!

Respecting the Culture and Environment

As you explore the rum runner’s route, remember to be respectful of the local culture and environment. Support local businesses, be mindful of the natural surroundings, and learn about the history of the islands. BVI relies heavily on tourism, so consider taking steps to give back to the communities you visit. Buy locally made products, eat at family-owned restaurants, and engage with the local people.

BVI is keen on environmental conservation. Be sure to avoid single-use plastics and properly dispose of trash. Consider volunteering for a local environmental organization or contributing to a conservation fund.

Practicalities of Planning your Rum Runner’s Route

Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit the BVI is during the dry season, from December to April, when the weather is sunny and pleasant. Transportation: Ferries, taxis, and rental cars are the main modes of transportation within the BVI. For inter-island travel, ferries are a popular and affordable option. Accommodation: BVI offers a range of accommodations, from luxury resorts to budget-friendly guesthouses. Consider staying in accommodations close to Road Town or Cane Garden Bay for better access to dining and attractions. Currency: The official currency of the BVI is the US dollar. Credit cards are widely accepted, but it’s a good idea to have some cash on hand for smaller establishments and tips.

Plan your route in advance to make sure you see all of the spots that appeal to you most. Be sure to check opening hours and tour schedules. Book accommodation and transportation in advance, especially during the high season.

FAQ Section

What is the best way to get around the British Virgin Islands? You can get around the BVI by ferry, taxi, or rental car. Ferries are the most common way to travel between islands, while taxis and rental cars are ideal for exploring individual islands. If you have a lot of islands to visit, consider chartering a boat. Private charters can be expensive. Consider day sail charters if budget is a consideration. These allow you to experience multiple islands with lunch and an open bar, but they can be crowded.

Are the British Virgin Islands safe for tourists? Yes, the BVI are generally safe for tourists. However, it’s always wise to take precautions against theft and to be aware of your surroundings, particularly at night.

What should I pack for a trip to the British Virgin Islands? Pack light, breathable clothing, swimwear, sunscreen, insect repellent, and comfortable walking shoes. If you plan to snorkel or dive, bring your own gear or rent it locally.

Can I drink the tap water in the British Virgin Islands? It’s best to drink bottled water or use a water filter. Tap water is generally safe, but the taste can vary.

How much does a trip to the British Virgin Islands cost? The cost of a trip to the BVI can vary greatly depending on your travel style and budget. Accommodation, dining, and activities can be expensive, especially during the high season. Look to budget around $200-$500 per day per person, but this can vary widely.

What are the local customs and etiquette in the British Virgin Islands? BVI is a friendly and welcoming place. Dress modestly when visiting towns and villages, and avoid loud or disrespectful behavior. Tipping is customary in restaurants and for services such as taxi rides and boat tours. 10-15% is typical.

References

“Callwood Rum Distillery Official Website”. Callwood Rum Distillery, Tortola, BVI.

“Soggy Dollar Bar Official Website”. Soggy Dollar Bar, Jost Van Dyke, BVI.

“Pusser’s Rum Official Website”. Pusser’s Rum Ltd.

Ready to embark on your own rum-fueled adventure through the British Virgin Islands? Start planning your trip today and prepare to uncover the secrets of the rum runners, savor authentic Caribbean flavors, and create unforgettable memories in this tropical paradise. Book your flights, reserve your accommodations, and prepare for an exhilarating experience.