Exploring The Historic Wreck Of The Rhone Off Salt Island

Diving the wreck of the RMS Rhone is arguably the premier diving experience in the British Virgin Islands (BVI), and for good reason. This historic shipwreck, lying just off Salt Island, offers a unique blend of history, marine biodiversity, and intriguing underwater topography that caters to both novice snorkelers and experienced scuba divers. It’s not just a dive; it’s a journey back in time, a chance to swim through the ghostly remains of a once-grand Royal Mail Steamer.

A Tragic Tale: The Sinking of the Rhone

The story of the Rhone is as captivating as the wreck itself. Built in 1865 in England, the RMS Rhone was a state-of-the-art Royal Mail Steamer, boasting both sail and steam power. On October 29, 1867, a devastating hurricane swept through the BVI. The Rhone, anchored off Salt Island alongside the HMS Conway, faced the full fury of the storm. Initially, the Rhone seemed to weather the storm, but as the eye passed, the barometric pressure dropped dramatically. Captain Robert Wooley decided to cut the anchor cable and attempt to steam to open water. Tragically, the Rhone struck a reef and broke in two. Shortly after, the second half of the wreck exploded, sinking rapidly. The Conway also sank, but with significantly less loss of life due to being closer to shore. Over 120 souls were lost on the Rhone, making it one of the BVI’s worst maritime disasters. Historical accounts detail the chaotic scene and the valiant efforts of the crew to save passengers, efforts that tragically proved largely futile.

Location, Location, Location: Finding the Rhone

The wreck sits in approximately 20-80 feet of water off the western end of Salt Island. Salt Island itself is a small, sparsely populated island southeast of Road Town, Tortola. The easiest way to access the Rhone is by boat. Numerous dive operators based in Tortola, Virgin Gorda, and other islands offer daily trips to the site. You can also charter a private boat, giving you more flexibility in your schedule and diving options. The geographical coordinates of the Rhone are approximately 18°24.4′ N, 64°31.9′ W. Almost every local captain knows how to find the location.

Diving the Rhone: A Detailed Exploration

The wreck is essentially in two main sections, the bow and the stern, separated by about 80 feet. The bow section is more intact and begins at around 20 feet, making it easily accessible for snorkelers. Divers can explore down to around 80 feet at the stern. The wreck is teeming with marine life, transforming the Rhone into an artificial reef. Imagine swimming through schools of colorful fish, encountering barracudas, and maybe even spotting a nurse shark sleeping under a piece of wreckage.

The Bow Section

The bow is the shallower of the two sections and offers incredible visibility. You can swim through the main deck, observing the remains of the cargo hold. Keep an eye out for the Rhone’s iconic bowsprit, still pointing towards the deep. The iron hull is encrusted with coral and sponges, creating a vibrant ecosystem. Snorkelers can easily see the bow, the forward mast, and much of the upper deck from the surface.

The Stern Section

The stern is a bit deeper and more challenging, but even more rewarding for experienced divers. This is where you’ll find the propeller, the engine room, and the captain’s quarters. The engine room is particularly impressive, showcasing the massive size of the machinery that once powered this vessel. The propeller is largely intact and is a favorite spot for underwater photography. It’s a must see!

The “Lucky Porthole”

One of the most iconic features of the Rhone is the “lucky porthole.” This porthole, located near the engine room, is said to bring good luck to those who swim through it. It’s a tight squeeze, so make sure you’re comfortable with your buoyancy skills before attempting it. Most divers and dive masters are excited to help you swim through this porthole. Ask your local dive master for tips to swim easily through this porthole.

Marine Life Abundance: An Underwater Paradise

The Rhone boasts a vibrant ecosystem with a breathtaking number of fishes. The wreck and the surrounding reefs are home to a diverse array of marine life, making it a true underwater paradise. Expect to see large schools of yellowtail snapper, grunts, and goatfish swarming around the wreck. Look out for barracuda lurking in the shadows, and keep an eye on the reef for moray eels. You might also encounter tarpon, jacks, and even some larger pelagic species. The coral and sponges provide shelter for countless smaller creatures, like nudibranchs, sea worms, and small crustaceans. Look closely at the coral formations to discover these hidden gems.

Dive Conditions: What to Expect

The BVI generally enjoys excellent diving conditions year-round. Water temperatures typically range from 78°F (26°C) in the winter to 85°F (29°C) in the summer. That means you will need a light wetsuit. Visibility is usually very good, often exceeding 50 feet, allowing for stunning views of the wreck. Currents can vary, but are typically mild, especially on the shallower sections of the wreck. However, it’s important to check with your dive operator for the latest conditions before heading out. The best time to visit for diving the Rhone is generally during the dry season, which runs from December to June. During this period, you can expect calmer seas and clearer skies.

Choosing a Dive Operator: Making the Right Choice

Selecting a reputable dive operator is key to a safe and enjoyable experience. Numerous dive operators in the BVI offer trips to the Rhone. Consider factors such as the size of the boat, the experience of the crew, and the type of diving offered. Look for operators who are certified by recognized diving organizations and who prioritize safety. Check online reviews and ask for recommendations from other divers. Some reputable operators include Dive BVI, Sunchaser Scuba, and Blue Water Divers. Consider the type of dive trip offered. Some operators offer dedicated Rhone dive trips, while others include it as part of a larger dive itinerary. Consider also the type of boat used—some are smaller and faster, while others are larger and more comfortable.

Snorkeling the Rhone for Non-Divers

Even if you’re not a scuba diver, you can still experience the magic of the Rhone. The shallower sections of the wreck are perfectly accessible for snorkelers. Most dive operators also offer snorkeling trips to the Rhone, providing snorkel gear and guidance. The bow section of the wreck is easily visible from the surface, and you can get a great view of the marine life as well. Remember to use reef-safe sunscreen to protect the delicate coral ecosystems. Also, be respectful of divers who are exploring deeper sections of the wreck.

Photography Tips: Capturing the Underwater Magic

The Rhone is a photographer’s dream, offering endless opportunities to capture stunning underwater images. To get the best shots, use a wide-angle lens to capture the scale of the wreck and the abundance of marine life. A strobe or underwater light will help to bring out the colors and details. Get close to your subject to minimize the amount of water between you and the camera. This will reduce backscatter and improve image clarity. Experiment with different angles and compositions to create unique and interesting photographs. Be patient and take your time, and you’ll be rewarded with amazing images that you’ll cherish for years to come.

Safety First: Diving Responsibly

Diving the Rhone is a rewarding experience, but it’s important to prioritize safety. Always dive within your limits and follow the instructions of your dive guide. Be aware of your air consumption and depth, and never exceed the maximum depth for your certification level. Avoid touching or disturbing the coral and marine life. Respect the wreck and its history. Remember, the Rhone is a protected historical site, and it’s important to preserve it for future generations. Make sure you have adequate diving insurance coverage before your trip. A DAN (Divers Alert Network) membership is highly recommended.

Cost Considerations: Planning Your Budget

The cost of diving the Rhone can vary depending on the dive operator, the type of trip, and the time of year. A typical two-tank dive trip to the Rhone will cost around $150-$200 per person. This usually includes boat transportation, dive gear rental, and the services of a dive guide. Snorkeling trips are generally less expensive, costing around $75-$100 per person. If you are chartering a private boat, the cost will be significantly higher, but you will have more flexibility in your schedule. Consider purchasing a package deal that includes multiple dives or activities. This can often be a more cost-effective option. Remember to factor in the cost of accommodation, meals, and transportation on the islands. The BVI are a relatively expensive destination, so plan your budget accordingly.

Beyond the Rhone: Other Dive Sites in the BVI

While the Rhone is the star attraction, the BVI offers a wealth of other amazing dive sites. The Indians is a popular site known for its colorful coral reefs and abundant fish life. The Caves off Norman Island offer a unique opportunity to explore underwater caverns and tunnels. Alice in Wonderland off Ginger Island is known for its unique rock formations and diverse marine life. The Chikuzen is a sunken refrigerator ship located in the north side of Tortola. It’s an advanced dive due to the depth and currents. A day trip to Anegada also comes highly recommended if time permits.

Respecting the Wreck: Conservation Efforts

The wreck of the Rhone is a precious historical and ecological resource. Efforts are being made to conserve the wreck and protect it from damage. The BVI government has designated the Rhone as a marine park, which helps to regulate diving activities and protect the site. Dive operators play a crucial role in promoting responsible diving practices and educating divers about the importance of conservation. Divers can contribute to conservation efforts by avoiding touching or disturbing the wreck, using reef-safe sunscreen, and participating in underwater clean-up initiatives. Sustainable tourism practices are essential to ensure that future generations can enjoy the beauty and history of the Rhone.

FAQ Section

What certification level is required to dive the Rhone?

While portions of the wreck are suitable for Open Water divers, accessing the deeper sections requires Advanced Open Water certification or equivalent. Snorkeling is available for non-certified individuals.

Is there a current at the Rhone wreck?

Currents can vary, but are generally mild to moderate. It’s always best to check with your dive operator for the latest conditions.

What kind of marine life can I expect to see at the Rhone?

The Rhone is teeming with marine life, including barracuda, snapper, grunts, eels, turtles, small sharks, and a variety of colorful reef fish, as well as vibrant coral and sponges.

How long does it take to get to the Rhone from Tortola?

The boat ride from Tortola to the Rhone usually takes 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the departure point and the type of boat.

Can I rent dive gear at the dive site?

No, you cannot rent dive gear at Salt Island. All dive gear must be obtained from your chosen dive operator before departing for the site.

What are the regulations for diving the Rhone?

The Rhone is a marine park, and there are regulations in place to protect the wreck. Divers must respect the site, avoid touching or disturbing the wreckage, and follow the instructions of their dive guide. Collecting souvenirs is strictly prohibited.

References

Crooks, K. (2003). The Rhone: The Full Story of the Royal Mail Steamer Rhone. Adlard Coles Nautical.

Potter, J. (2008). Diving the Caribbean: The Ultimate Guide to the Caribbean’s Best Dive Sites. New World Publications.

Information gathered from various local dive operators websites.

Ready to embark on an unforgettable underwater adventure? Don’t just dream about the RMS Rhone—experience it firsthand! Contact one of the reputable dive operators mentioned, book your trip, pack your bags (and your underwater camera!), and prepare to be mesmerized by the history and beauty that awaits beneath the waves. The wreck of the Rhone is calling your name. Answer it and create memories that will last a lifetime!