Hidden Histories: Exploring Underground Slave Routes in the British Virgin Islands

The Ram Head trail on St. John ends at a cliff where, in May 1734, eleven freedom fighters chose ritual suicide over recapture. A plaque placed there in recent years now marks the spot, but the story of enslaved people escaping into the islands’ hills—and the routes they used—stretches across the British Virgin Islands too, just a few miles across the Sir Francis Drake Channel.

This guide covers the physical sites, historical context, and practical logistics for exploring the underground slave routes and maroon settlements connected to the BVI. You’ll find where to look for traces of this history, how the geography shaped resistance, and what to expect when visiting these often-overlooked locations.

Understanding the BVI’s Underground Routes and Maroon Landscapes

The geography of the British Virgin Islands—steep hills, dense dry forest, hidden coves—made marooning a viable form of resistance.

Marooning, the practice of enslaved people escaping plantations into thick vegetation, was the most common form of resistance across the Virgin Islands, according to the National Park Service overview of the African diaspora. In the BVI, escaped individuals and small groups often spent months living in the dense thickets of Tortola, Virgin Gorda, and Anegada, relying on knowledge of edible plants, rainwater catchments, and the cover of night to move between settlements.

The proximity to the Danish West Indies—St. Thomas and St. John are visible from Tortola on a clear day—added another layer. After 1834, many enslaved people from the Danish islands attempted to escape to the freedom of the British Islands, crossing the Sir Francis Drake Channel in small boats under cover of darkness. That channel crossing, roughly four miles at its narrowest point, became one of the most significant underground routes in the region.

What I’d do: Start with a map of Tortola’s north shore. The hills above Cane Garden Bay and Brewer’s Bay still hold sections of dry forest where maroon camps were likely located. You won’t find signs, but the terrain itself tells the story—steep enough to discourage pursuit, close enough to the coast for fishing and boat escape.

Key Sites and Experiences for Tracing Slave Routes

Fortsberg and the 1733 Akwamu Rebellion

Though Fortsberg sits on St. John in what is now the U.S. Virgin Islands, its story is inseparable from the BVI. The 1733 Akwamu rebellion began here when a group of enslaved people, under the guise of delivering firewood, brandished concealed cane knives and killed all but one Danish soldier. They then fired the fort’s cannon as a signal that the revolution had begun, as documented by National Geographic’s account of the insurrection.

The rebellion controlled St. John for about six months. British reinforcements from Tortola arrived on a warship but could not subdue the freedom fighters. It took 200 French forces from Martinique to finally end the revolt in April 1734. For anyone tracing slave routes in the BVI, Fortsberg is the logical starting point—visible from Tortola’s south coast and reachable by a short ferry ride from Road Town to Cruz Bay.

Ram Head and Mary’s Point

The Ram Head trail on St. John’s southeast coast ends at a plaque commemorating the 11 freedom fighters who committed ritual suicide there rather than face recapture. Hikers can park at the Salt Pond Bay trailhead, hike a quarter mile to Salt Pond Beach, and find the Ram Head trailhead on the southern end of the beach. The hike is 0.9 miles each way over exposed rock—bring water and sun protection.

Mary’s Point, on St. John’s north side, is where local lore places the discovery of 24 additional bodies of freedom fighters who chose the same fate on May 23, 1734. Dr. Sprauve, a St. Johnian with ancestral ties dating to the mid-18th century, recalls an elder pointing to the area from a boat and telling the story of Africans who, instead of facing slavery again, took their own lives. For almost 40 years, locals have held annual pilgrimages to key sites like Fortsberg every Friday after Thanksgiving.

The Sir Francis Drake Channel Crossing

The channel between St. John and Tortola was more than a scenic waterway—it was a route to freedom. After 1834, enslaved people from the Danish islands attempted the crossing in small boats, often at night, navigating by the lights of Tortola’s north shore settlements. The distance is roughly four miles at the narrowest point, but currents in the channel can be strong. A modern crossing by ferry takes about 30 minutes; by small boat, it would have taken an hour or more, with significant risk of detection or drowning.

What I’d do: Take the early ferry from Road Town to Cruz Bay and spend the morning at the Ram Head trail. The crossing itself gives you a visceral sense of the distance those escapees covered—open water, no cover, and the constant threat of patrol boats. On the return, stop at the maritime heritage exhibits in Road Town to see traditional boat-building techniques that would have been used for these crossings.

Practical Planning for a History-Focused Visit

Timing, access, and local knowledge matter more here than at typical beach-and-sail BVI destinations.

Getting There and Moving Between Sites

Road Town on Tortola is the main hub. Ferries to Cruz Bay, St. John run multiple times daily and cost around $60 round trip per person. From Cruz Bay, taxis to the Salt Pond Bay trailhead cost roughly $25 one way. For Tortola’s north shore hills, you’ll need a rental car or a pre-arranged driver—public transport is limited and the roads are steep and winding.

Best Time to Visit

The dry season from December to April offers the most reliable weather for hiking and boat crossings. Rain can make the Ram Head trail slippery and reduce visibility for channel crossings. Hurricane season (June through November) brings the risk of ferry cancellations and trail closures. If you’re visiting during the annual pilgrimage weekend—the Friday after Thanksgiving—you’ll find guided walks and community events that aren’t available at other times of year.

Costs and Local Friction

Ferry fares, taxi fares, and park entry fees add up. Budget around $100–$150 per person for a day trip from Tortola to St. John, including ferry, taxis, and a meal. The Virgin Islands National Park on St. John has no entry fee, but parking at Salt Pond Bay is limited and fills by 9 a.m. in dry season. On Tortola, the north shore hills are free to explore but require a guide to identify historical features—ask at the BVI Tourist Board office in Road Town for recommended local historians.

On the Ground: What to Know Before You Go

Packing and Preparation

The combination of exposed hiking, ferry travel, and tropical sun demands specific gear. A lightweight hiking daypack with a hydration sleeve makes the Ram Head trail manageable. For the ferry crossings, a waterproof phone pouch protects against spray and accidental drops. The trails are rocky and uneven—sturdy closed-toe shoes with good grip are essential; flip-flops are a bad idea on the Ram Head trail.

Local Etiquette and Cultural Sensitivity

These sites are not tourist attractions in the conventional sense. For many Virgin Islanders, they are sacred ground. Speak quietly at the Ram Head plaque. Do not climb on the Fortsberg ruins. If you’re visiting during the annual pilgrimage, ask permission before taking photographs of participants. The local community has been leading commemorations for nearly 40 years—respect their protocols.

What I’d do: Before visiting, read the BVI Freedom Day traditions guide to understand how emancipation is celebrated locally. It gives context for why these sites matter beyond their historical significance.

Hidden Histories in the British Virgin Islands: Visitor Questions

What is marooning and where did it happen in the BVI?

Marooning was the practice of enslaved people escaping plantations into dense forest. In the BVI, it happened most frequently in the hills above Tortola’s north shore and on the undeveloped interior of Virgin Gorda. The National Park Service notes that marooned individuals often spent months living in these thickets, relying on rainwater and wild food.

Can you visit the actual slave route sites in the BVI?

Some sites are accessible, but most are unmarked. The Ram Head trail on St. John has a commemorative plaque. Fortsberg in Coral Bay is visible from the road but on private land. Tortola’s north shore hills have no formal trails—you’ll need a guide to identify potential maroon camp locations.

How long does it take to see the main historical sites?

A day trip from Tortola to St. John covers Fortsberg and the Ram Head trail, but it’s a full day—ferry, taxi, hike, and return. Add a second day for Tortola’s north shore hills and the maritime museum in Road Town. The annual pilgrimage weekend in late November is the most efficient way to see multiple sites with expert guides.

Is the Ram Head trail suitable for children?

It depends on the child. The trail is 0.9 miles each way over exposed rock with no shade. Kids who are comfortable hiking on uneven terrain and can handle heat will manage fine. Bring more water than you think you need—there’s no source on the trail. The plaque itself is small and requires reading, so prepare to explain the history in age-appropriate terms.

What’s the biggest challenge of visiting these sites?

The lack of infrastructure. No visitor centers, no interpretive signs at most locations, and limited public transport between sites. You have to do your research beforehand and be comfortable with a self-guided approach. The tradeoff is that you’ll often have these places almost entirely to yourself.

Closing

The Sir Francis Drake Channel that most visitors see as a backdrop for sailing and sunset photos was, for a brief window after 1834, a route to freedom that people risked their lives to cross. That reality doesn’t diminish the beauty of the water—it adds a layer of meaning that changes how you see the horizon. The culinary traditions that followed emancipation tell part of that story too, but the landscape itself holds the rest.

Sources and further reading

African Diaspora in the Virgin Islands. National Park Service.

The 1733 Akwamu Rebellion and the Ram Head Commemorative Plaque. National Geographic, 2025.

Slavery, Emancipation, and the Continued March Toward Liberation in the Virgin Islands. St. Thomas Source, 2025.