Diving the RMS Rhone in the British Virgin Islands (BVI) is an unforgettable experience, consistently ranking among the world’s best wreck dives. Prepare to explore a 19th-century Royal Mail Steamer, teeming with marine life and steeped in history, offering an adventure suitable for both novice and experienced divers.
A Shipwreck Story: The RMS Rhone’s Tragic Tale
The RMS Rhone wasn’t just any ship; she was a symbol of Victorian engineering and luxury. Launched in 1865, this Royal Mail Steamer was designed to transport passengers, mail, and cargo across the Atlantic. Imagine the opulent interiors, the bustling decks, and the stories held within her iron hull. However, on October 29, 1867, a devastating hurricane struck the BVI, and the Rhone, caught in the storm’s fury, tragically sank off Salt Island. What makes this wreck so accessible and intriguing is that it lies in relatively shallow waters, allowing many divers to explore her remains. The storm that sank the Rhone also damaged the nearby HMS Conway, adding another layer of maritime history to the area.
Two Incredible Dive Sites in One
Actually, “site” is a bit of a misnomer. The Rhone is typically dived in two parts: the bow and the stern. This is because the storm effectively broke the ship in half. This split creates two distinct dive experiences, each with its own character and allure. Getting to the Rhone is usually done by boat from various points in the BVI, including Tortola, Virgin Gorda, and even some of the smaller islands. Many dive operators offer daily trips to the site. The journey offers stunning views of the BVI coastline, setting the stage for the underwater adventure to come.
Diving the Bow Section
The bow section is often the first part of the wreck that divers explore. It sits upright in about 80 feet of water, making it an excellent dive for advanced open water divers or those with wreck diving experience. Visibility is usually excellent, often exceeding 60 feet, which allows for breathtaking views of the ship’s structure.
One of the highlights of the bow is the ship’s anchor, still resting in its hawsepipe. You can also explore the forward cargo hold, now home to a variety of marine life. Look closely at the coral encrusting the hull; you’ll find sea fans, sponges, and a kaleidoscope of colorful fish. The bow section offers great opportunities for underwater photography, capturing the grandeur of the wreck against the backdrop of the clear Caribbean Sea.
Don’t miss the famous “lucky porthole.” Legend says that rubbing this porthole brings good luck. Whether or not you believe the legend, it’s a fun detail to look out for during your dive. However, be aware of the current. It can be strong at times, especially at the surface. Your dive operator will provide a thorough briefing on the conditions before you enter the water.
Exploring the Stern Section
The stern section lies in shallower water, around 30-50 feet, making it accessible to less experienced divers. This section of the wreck is arguably more dramatic, with the propeller and engine room clearly visible. The massive propeller, still attached to the driveshaft, is a sight to behold, offering a tangible connection to the Rhone’s powerful past.
The engine room is an intricate maze of pipes, valves, and machinery, providing a glimpse into the ship’s inner workings. While penetration is generally discouraged for less experienced divers, even viewing the engine room from the outside is a fascinating experience. The stern section is also home to a vibrant array of marine life. Schools of fish swarm around the wreck, and you might spot barracuda, moray eels, and even the occasional nurse shark.
Look out for the “Captain’s bathtub,” a feature famously used in the movie “The Deep.” This bathtub, still intact, adds a touch of whimsy to the dive. The stern section is an excellent place to observe smaller creatures as well. Keep an eye out for nudibranchs, sea slugs, and various species of crabs and shrimps. It’s a macro photographer’s paradise!
The Aquatic Inhabitants: A Living Reef
The RMS Rhone isn’t just a shipwreck; it’s a thriving artificial reef, teeming with life. Over the years, coral has colonized the wreck, creating a vibrant ecosystem that attracts a diverse range of marine species. From tiny reef fish to larger predators, the Rhone is a microcosm of the Caribbean Sea’s biodiversity.
You’re likely to encounter schools of grunts, snappers, and jacks swirling around the wreck. Keep an eye out for barracuda lurking in the shadows, and moray eels peeking out from crevices. The wreck is also home to a variety of invertebrates, including sea fans, sponges, and crustaceans. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a sea turtle gliding gracefully through the water. Nurse sharks are also known to frequent the area, adding an element of excitement to the dive. Divers should remember to maintain neutral buoyancy to avoid damaging the delicate coral and disturbing the marine life. Respect the environment, and you’ll be rewarded with an unforgettable underwater experience.
Planning Your Dive Trip: Practical Advice
Diving the RMS Rhone requires careful planning to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. Here’s what you need to consider:
Certification and Experience
While the stern section is accessible to open water divers, diving the bow section requires advanced open water certification or equivalent due to its depth. Wreck diving experience is highly recommended. If you’re new to wreck diving, consider taking a wreck diving specialty course before your trip. This course will teach you essential skills, such as proper buoyancy control, navigation within a wreck, and awareness of potential hazards. Many dive operators in the BVI offer these courses.
Choosing a Dive Operator
Selecting a reputable dive operator is crucial. Look for operators with experienced instructors, well-maintained equipment, and a strong safety record. Research different operators and read reviews online to get a sense of their reputation and service quality. Some popular and well-regarded dive operators in the BVI include Dive BVI, Blue Water Divers, and Sunchaser Scuba. These operators typically offer a range of dive packages, including single dives, multi-day dive trips, and wreck diving specialty courses. When booking your dive trip, be sure to inquire about the operator’s safety protocols, equipment maintenance procedures, and emergency response plan.
Equipment Essentials
Ensure you have the right equipment for your dive. This includes a well-fitting wetsuit (3mm is usually sufficient for the Caribbean), fins, mask, snorkel, BCD (buoyancy control device), regulator, and dive computer. A dive light is essential for exploring the darker areas of the wreck. If you don’t own your own equipment, most dive operators offer rentals. However, it’s always a good idea to check the condition of rental equipment before your dive. A safety sausage or surface marker buoy (SMB) is also recommended, especially if you plan to drift away from the wreck. An SMB allows boats to easily spot you on the surface, ensuring a safe ascent.
Best Time to Dive
The best time to dive the RMS Rhone is generally during the dry season, which runs from December to May. During these months, the weather is typically sunny and the seas are calm, providing excellent visibility. The water temperature remains relatively constant year-round, averaging around 80°F (27°C). However, the BVI can experience hurricanes during the Atlantic hurricane season (June to November), so it’s essential to check the weather forecast before your trip. Even during the dry season, occasional rain showers can occur, but they rarely last for long and usually don’t impact diving conditions significantly.
Getting There and Staying There
The easiest way to get to the BVI is by flying into Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS) on Beef Island, Tortola. Many major airlines offer connecting flights through Puerto Rico, St. Thomas, or Antigua. Once you arrive in Tortola, you can take a ferry or water taxi to other islands in the BVI, such as Virgin Gorda or Jost Van Dyke.
Accommodation options in the BVI range from luxury resorts to budget-friendly guesthouses. Tortola offers the widest variety of accommodations, while Virgin Gorda is known for its upscale resorts and villas. Consider staying near a dive operator to minimize travel time to the dive site.
Some popular accommodations in Tortola include Long Bay Beach Resort and Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina, Spa & Marina. In Virgin Gorda, you might consider Rosewood Little Dix Bay or Bitter End Yacht Club. For budget-conscious travelers, there are also several guesthouses and smaller hotels available throughout the BVI. Booking your accommodation in advance is highly recommended, especially during peak season.
Cost Expectations
Diving in the BVI, including the RMS Rhone, can be relatively expensive compared to some other Caribbean destinations. The cost of a single dive trip to the Rhone typically ranges from $150 to $200 per person, including equipment rental and boat transportation. Multi-day dive packages can offer better value if you plan to dive multiple times during your trip.
The cost of accommodation in the BVI varies widely depending on the type of accommodation and the time of year. Budget-friendly guesthouses can cost around $100 to $150 per night, while luxury resorts can charge upwards of $500 per night. Food and drinks in the BVI can also be expensive, especially at tourist-oriented restaurants. Consider purchasing groceries and cooking some of your meals to save money.
Transportation costs within the BVI can also add up. Ferries between islands typically cost around $20 to $30 per person, while taxis can be quite expensive. Renting a car can be a good option if you plan to explore the islands extensively, but be aware that driving is on the left side of the road. Overall, you should budget at least $300 to $500 per day for your trip to the BVI, depending on your accommodation and activity choices. Prices for guided wreck dives average around $175, and boat charters cost around $1200 per day. Entry to the RMS Rhone Marine Park costs about $10 per person.
Safety First: Essential Precautions
Diving the RMS Rhone is an incredible experience, but safety should always be your top priority. Here are some essential precautions to keep in mind:
Dive Within Your Limits
Be honest about your skills and experience level. Don’t attempt dives that are beyond your capabilities. If you’re not comfortable diving in strong currents or at depth, choose a different dive site or opt for a shallower section of the Rhone.
Listen to Your Dive Briefing
Pay close attention to the dive briefing provided by your dive operator. They will provide important information about the dive site, potential hazards, and safety procedures. Ask questions if anything is unclear.
Maintain Neutral Buoyancy
Good buoyancy control is essential for wreck diving. Maintain neutral buoyancy to avoid damaging the wreck and disturbing the marine life. Practice your buoyancy skills in a pool or shallow water before your dive.
Watch Your Air Supply
Monitor your air supply closely and ascend with plenty of reserve. It’s always better to end the dive early than to run out of air underwater. Communicate your air consumption to your dive buddy and the dive master.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings
Stay aware of your surroundings and avoid touching or disturbing the wreck. The metal can be sharp and unstable in places. Also, be mindful of the marine life and avoid harassing or feeding the animals. The British Virgin Islands National Parks Trust imposes strict fines for damaging coral or disturbing marine life within the park.
Dive with a Buddy
Always dive with a buddy and stay within visual contact. Communicate with your buddy throughout the dive and be prepared to assist each other in case of an emergency.
Proper Ascent and Safety Stops
Ascend slowly and make a safety stop at 15 feet for 3-5 minutes. This allows your body to release excess nitrogen and reduces the risk of decompression sickness. Use a safety sausage or SMB to signal your location to the boat.
Capturing the Memory: Underwater Photography
The RMS Rhone is a photographer’s dream, offering countless opportunities to capture stunning underwater images. Here are some tips for taking memorable photos and videos:
Use a Wide-Angle Lens
A wide-angle lens is essential for capturing the grandeur of the wreck and the surrounding marine life. It allows you to get close to your subject while still capturing a wide field of view.
Bring a Dive Light
A dive light is crucial for illuminating the darker areas of the wreck and bringing out the colors of the coral and fish. A powerful light can also help improve visibility in murky water.
Shoot in RAW Format
Shooting in RAW format gives you more flexibility when editing your photos. RAW files contain more information than JPEG files, allowing you to adjust the exposure, white balance, and other settings without losing image quality.
Get Close to Your Subject
Water absorbs light and reduces visibility, so it’s important to get as close as possible to your subject. This will help you capture sharper, more colorful images.
Use Natural Light
Whenever possible, use natural light to illuminate your subject. Position yourself so that the sun is behind you, and avoid shooting directly into the sun. This will help you capture more vibrant colors and reduce backscatter.
Practice Your Buoyancy
Good buoyancy control is essential for underwater photography. Practice your buoyancy skills so that you can stay steady and avoid disturbing the wreck or the marine life.
Edit Your Photos
Use photo editing software to enhance your photos and correct any imperfections. Adjust the exposure, white balance, and contrast to bring out the colors and details of your images.
Beyond the Rhone: Other Dive Sites in the BVI
While the RMS Rhone is undoubtedly the star attraction, the BVI offers a wealth of other fantastic dive sites worth exploring. Here are a few notable mentions:
The Indians
Located off Norman Island, The Indians are a series of four rocky pinnacles that rise dramatically from the sea. These formations offer excellent snorkeling and diving, with colorful coral, abundant fish life, and swim-throughs. This site is perfect for beginner to intermediate divers.
The Caves
Also located off Norman Island, The Caves are a series of underwater caves and grottoes that are teeming with life. Snorkelers and divers can explore these fascinating formations and encounter a variety of marine species, including lobster, crabs, and schooling fish. Bring a dive light to fully appreciate the caves’ interior.
Alice in Wonderland
Located off Ginger Island, Alice in Wonderland is a vibrant reef known for its diverse coral formations and abundant fish life. This site is suitable for divers of all levels and offers excellent opportunities for underwater photography.
Wreck of the Chikuzen
Located off Beef Island, the Chikuzen is a sunken refrigerator vessel that has become an artificial reef. The wreck is home to a wide variety of marine life, including barracuda, sharks, and sea turtles. This is a deeper dive, suitable for advanced divers.
FAQ Section
What is the best time of year to dive the RMS Rhone?
The best time to dive the RMS Rhone is generally during the dry season, from December to May, when the weather is sunny and the seas are calm, offering excellent visibility. However, diving is possible year-round.
What level of diving certification is required to dive the RMS Rhone?
The stern section of the Rhone is suitable for open water certified divers, while the deeper bow section is recommended for advanced open water certified divers due to the depth (around 80 feet).
Are there any currents to be aware of when diving the RMS Rhone?
Yes, currents can be present, especially around the bow section. It’s essential to listen to the dive briefing and be aware of the conditions before entering the water. Your dive operator will advise you on current conditions on the day.
What marine life can I expect to see at the RMS Rhone?
The RMS Rhone is a thriving artificial reef, teeming with marine life. You can expect to see schools of fish, barracuda, moray eels, nurse sharks, sea turtles, and a variety of coral and invertebrates.
How do I get to the RMS Rhone dive site?
The RMS Rhone is accessible by boat from various points in the BVI, including Tortola, Virgin Gorda, and other smaller islands. Most dive operators offer daily trips to the site, and the boat ride itself offers stunning views of the BVI coastline.
How much does it cost to dive the RMS Rhone?
The cost of a dive trip to the Rhone typically ranges from $150 to $200 per person, including equipment rental and boat transportation. Multi-day dive packages may offer better value if you plan on several dives.
References
- British Virgin Islands National Parks Trust
- Various dive operator websites in the British Virgin Islands
Ready to experience the magic of the RMS Rhone firsthand? Don’t just dream about it – book your dive trip today! Contact one of the reputable dive operators mentioned earlier, pack your bags, and prepare for an underwater adventure you’ll never forget. The RMS Rhone awaits, promising a journey through history and a glimpse into the vibrant marine life of the Caribbean. What are you waiting for? Explore the depths, discover the beauty, and create memories that will last a lifetime!