Polynesia trip became special.

Thirty-four years ago, Tahiti was a distant dream, a backpacker’s adventure with my then-boyfriend. We were fresh out of university, delaying the inevitable job hunt for a year of travel. French Polynesia was our first stop. Our budget was tight: baguettes and vitamins, foraged coconuts, sleeping on a cargo ferry deck to avoid diesel fumes, and camping on Bora Bora’s beaches. Now, we’re back, older, married, and wondering what happened to those carefree kids. This trip is an attempt to reconnect with our first grand adventure.

The Sound of Drums

The best advice for anyone visiting French Polynesia? Always follow the sound of the drums. It’s a lesson I learned much later. When drums beat, enchantment follows. This understanding eluded me during my initial visit. Now, I know their rhythm signals something significant, something engaging.

This time, our journey began not on a cargo ferry, but on the luxurious m/s Paul Gauguin. This 330-passenger ship was specifically designed to navigate the intricate coral breaks surrounding these islands. Its name honors the French painter, Paul Gauguin, whose work was so inspired by this region. The ship sails all year round, exploring the Society Islands, Cook Islands, Marquesas, Tuamotu atolls, Fiji, and Tonga.

A Legacy of Art

A small museum on Deck 6 of the Paul Gauguin showcases the painter’s connection to the islands. It features a menu on which Gauguin sketched to pay for meals when he was short on cash. Alongside this, visitors can admire carved wooden paddles, statues, and other cultural artifacts, offering a glimpse into Polynesian history.

The Paul Gauguin was acquired by the French cruise company Ponant in 2019 and has since undergone a significant refurbishment. Staterooms now feature soft furnishings in shades of green and blue, mirroring the stunning lagoons outside. The pool deck, with its bar and Le Grill restaurant, has been updated with new decor and comfortable loungers. Beneath the decks, upgraded technology has improved energy efficiency, including better filtration systems to convert seawater into drinking water. Ponant was eager to showcase these improvements to travel writers, and this was an assignment I simply couldn’t refuse.

Conversations with Captain

Early in our seven-night Society Islands journey, my husband and I had dinner with Captain René-Paul Boucher. Surrounded by inquisitive writers, he good-naturedly answered our questions, barely pausing to eat his steak. He explained that the Paul Gauguin’s shallow draft allows it to get incredibly close to the coral-fringed islands. When asked about the noticeable ocean swells between islands, he smiled, referring to the islands as “needles in the ocean,” with “nothing between Antarctica and Tahiti” to break the long swells.

Learning that my husband and I were Canadian, his eyebrows shot up. Navigating the coral shoals here is challenging, he admitted, but nowhere near as demanding as the overnight transit through the Welland Canal, connecting Lake Ontario and Lake Erie. He had spent a season captaining Ponant’s Great Lakes sailings, and those eight long, narrow locks, with less than a foot of clearance on either side of a multi-million dollar ship, still haunted him.

The Rhythmic Pulse

One evening, I followed the sound of drums aboard the ship and discovered the ship’s cultural troupe performing. The rhythmic thrumming, clacking, and booming intensified and softened, leading the Gauguin dancers through choreography that narrated tales of navigation, struggle, warfare, and love. Years ago, as a backpacker, I’m not sure I would have had the patience to fully immerse myself in stories told through movement and sound that resonated through my entire being.

The costumes, made from woven palm leaves and flowers, embellished with shells, expertly tied pareos, and even coconut-shell bras, transformed from mere stereotypes into cultural touchstones as I began to comprehend their significance and usage. Women of all ages moved their hips with incredible fluidity, making it seem effortless, while the men stomped and cried out with raw intensity.

Sharing the Mana

Matairea Kui Sang, a member of the ship’s cultural troupe, shared a profound insight. He explained that when he performs the haka, he wants to convey that Polynesians are not just a “happy people,” but also recognized as “famous warriors.” Sang, who grew up on Huahine, initially did not learn his ancestral traditions due to his parents being Christian, part of a larger group influenced by missionaries who arrived in Polynesia in the late 18th and 19th centuries.

However, after joining the ship’s crew, Sang delved into his country’s history, adopting traditional dress and learning historic dances. He is often seen shirtless, wearing a pareo slung over his hips, adorned with shell necklaces and accoutrements, and Polynesian tattoos extending down one arm. What might appear as a costume to visitors is, for Sang, an integral part of his identity. He meticulously explains the meaning behind each piece and every tattoo, sharing the “mana”—the sacred energy force believed to exist in all living things in Polynesia. He describes it as a “big feeling” that brings strength and happiness, which is sustained by sharing it with others.

I observed this “mana” in action during an onboard ukulele class one afternoon. My husband’s last encounter with a ukulele was a battered instrument discovered at our camping hostel in Bora Bora. Under the guidance of one of the Gauguin staff, he quickly grasped the three strings and learned a few local folk songs. When the teacher ran out of music, she allowed him to keep the ukulele for the remainder of the cruise, during which he entertained himself by transposing Led Zeppelin’s “The Battle of Evermore.”

Island Life and Food

Each day, the ship anchors close enough to a new island that the crowing of roosters is audible, and the varied shades of green in the palm and pine trees climbing the volcanic cliffs are clearly visible. With two restaurants offering outdoor dining, even without taking one of the many excursions, the lunch views are spectacular.

A major highlight of this trip is undoubtedly the food, which features French influences with Tahitian twists. Poisson cru, a delicious tuna ceviche with coconut milk and slivered vegetables, is a particular treat. The French wines and cheeses are much appreciated, as is the sublime Bordier butter, generously spread on fresh bread. The m/s Paul Gauguin sails year-round throughout French Polynesia.

Bora Bora’s Charm

Our itinerary included two full days in Bora Bora, often called the “siren song” of French Polynesia. Its incredibly clear waters, pristine white sandy coastlines, and idyllic motus (offshore islands) live up to every travel-writing cliché. For many guests, it’s the voyage’s pinnacle, and we were no exception, though we also had some personal business to attend to in this “pearl of the Pacific.”

On the first day, I spent my time on the water, snorkeling with stingrays and blacktip reef sharks. I glided above the mysterious undulations of a manta ray and navigated through a vibrant coral garden where maxima clams displayed their flashy, iridescent lips in shades of pink, green, and blue. More than once, fish enveloped me in a cloud of color.

The next day, we explored the island independently. Feeling a bit too old for hitchhiking, we negotiated with a taxi driver. He was just 12 years old when we first visited over three decades ago, but he knew the exact spot where we had camped. As we reminisced in his backseat, noting the many changes (he quipped that the only thing grown on Bora Bora now is hotels), he became increasingly captivated by our story. He made more unscheduled stops than agreed upon, eager to showcase his island. (More mana at play, I suspect.) Eventually, we found our old beach and posed for photos, grinning widely.

Rhythm of Community

Back in Vaitape, Bora Bora’s capital, we bid our driver farewell and once again heard the drums. Following the beat, we stumbled upon a coconut hulling competition in full swing. Men and women, clad in pareos and flip-flops, wielded axes with astonishing abandon, expertly halving the tough coconuts. They then tossed the pieces to two teammates who used metal tools to extract the coconut meat.

Each of the six teams was drenched in coconut water, surrounded by hundreds of discarded shells and massive mounds of coconut meat ready to be shoveled into sacks. The drums maintained a lively tempo, as residents gathered to cheer for their favorites. Slow-moving participants were playfully harangued by a large man who expressed his displeasure by ripping the husk off a coconut with his teeth. We couldn’t understand the words, but the crowd’s roars of delight were universal. The energy was infectious.

We exchanged grins, thrilled to have unexpectedly stumbled upon such a vibrant and joyful event. We laughed along with everyone else, cheering just as loudly for the winners. We had found the “mana” again, and this time, it flowed through us too.

Embark on Your Adventure

Consider experiencing the magic of French Polynesia for yourself. The m/s Paul Gauguin offers year-round voyages, including the seven-night Tahiti and Society Islands cruise that includes stops at Huahine, Bora Bora, Moorea, Raiatea, and Taha’a, providing a private island beach day experience. Prices typically start around US$4,450 per person. During summer and school holidays, the ship’s Moana Explorer program provides complimentary naturalist-led excursions and activities specifically for children aged 6 to 13. Some Paul Gauguin sailings even feature post-cruise bus tours of Tahiti, including visits to historical sites like the home of author James Norman Hall, known for “Mutiny on the Bounty.” If you travel in July, you might catch the exciting Heiva festivals across the islands, where locals engage in competitions involving traditional dance, costume, singing, drumming, and skills.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the m/s Paul Gauguin?
The m/s Paul Gauguin is a luxury cruise ship designed specifically for exploring French Polynesia. It carries 330 passengers and is named after the French painter inspired by the islands.

What makes the Paul Gauguin unique for Polynesian cruises?
The ship has a shallow draft, enabling it to navigate closer to the coral reefs and islands than larger cruise ships. It also offers a dedicated cultural troupe and activities focused on Polynesian heritage.

What kind of a dining experience can I expect on board?
The dining experience on the Paul Gauguin is French-influenced with Tahitian elements. Expect fresh local dishes like poisson cru, alongside French wines, cheeses, and quality ingredients like Bordier butter.

Are there activities for children on the Paul Gauguin?
Yes, during summer and school holidays, the ship offers the Moana Explorer program for children aged 6-13. This program provides complimentary naturalist-led excursions and activities designed for younger guests.

What is “mana” in the context of Polynesian culture?
“Mana” refers to a sacred energy force believed to exist in all living things in Polynesian culture. It brings strength and happiness, and its power is sustained through sharing.

How long is a typical cruise on the Paul Gauguin to the Society Islands?
A typical cruise to the Society Islands is seven nights, visiting islands such as Huahine, Bora Bora, Moorea, Raiatea, and Taha’a.

What is the best time to visit French Polynesia for cultural festivals?
Traveling in July offers the opportunity to experience the Heiva festivals, where local communities compete in traditional dance, costume, singing, drumming, and skills competitions across the islands.

Are excursions included in the cruise fare?
While some activities and programs are complimentary (like the Moana Explorer program), many excursions offered at each port are typically available at an additional cost.

What kind of cabins are available on the Paul Gauguin?
The staterooms on the Paul Gauguin have been recently refurbished, featuring soft furnishings in shades of green and blue to reflect the surrounding lagoons. Specific cabin categories vary.

Can I learn about Polynesian culture on board the ship?
Absolutely. The ship features a cultural troupe that performs traditional dances and tells stories. There are also opportunities to participate in activities like ukulele classes and learn about ancient Polynesian traditions and the meaning behind cultural artifacts.

Plan Your Timeless Escape

Are you ready to trade the everyday for a journey of discovery and enchantment? Imagine yourself basking in the sun, surrounded by crystal-clear waters, and immersed in a culture rich with history and vibrant traditions. Now is the perfect time to explore the allure of French Polynesia. Take inspiration from a journey that spanned decades and discover how some experiences, like the call of the drums, remain timeless. Set sail on the m/s Paul Gauguin and create your own unforgettable memories. Whether you’re reconnecting with a loved one, seeking adventure, or simply desiring unparalleled luxury, this is your invitation to experience the true mana of the Pacific.

References

Tim McKenna/Paul Gauguin

Jason Xu/Paul Gauguin

Catherine Dawson March/The Globe and Mail