French Polynesia had been a dream destination, and last August, it finally became a reality. My partner and I spent 16 unforgettable days exploring this breathtaking French overseas territory. We immersed ourselves in six islands within the Society Islands archipelago, a small part of French Polynesia’s 118 Pacific islands. Even during peak season, the islands never felt crowded, offering pristine white-sand beaches and vibrant turquoise lagoons that truly live up to their reputation. While our trip was incredible, there are five key things I would do differently next time to elevate the experience even further.
Sonya Moore
Navigating the Islands: Ferries vs. Flights
I wasted a lot of time meticulously planning flights between islands. My initial mistake was not consulting a map of the Society Islands first to identify routes where ferries would be a better option. I also found the Air Tahiti website a bit overwhelming, with too many choices. Honestly, their “Book” feature is all you need for flight times and prices.
Ferries proved to be incredibly reliable, comfortable, and significantly more affordable for shorter journeys. Think routes like Tahiti to Moorea, or connecting Huahine, Raiatea, Taha’a, and Bora Bora. Realizing this sooner would have saved me so much planning stress.
Some islands, like the enchanting Taha’a, don’t even have an airport. Often called “Vanilla Island” for its fragrant plantations, Taha’a is only accessible by boat via Raiatea. You can hop on a 45-minute Apetahi Express ferry or opt for a quicker 30-minute water taxi. Making the trip to Taha’a was a highlight; we had one of our most magical experiences there, swimming completely alone with six majestic manta rays in the open ocean.
Sonya Moore
For longer distances, flights are definitely the way to go. We once took the Maupiti Express 2 ferry from Bora Bora to Maupiti because flights didn’t fit our schedule. I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s much less comfortable, and the rough two-and-a-half-hour ride isn’t for everyone. Seriously, it’s a test of even the strongest stomachs!
A crucial tip: always check ferry and flight schedules before booking your accommodation. Ferries don’t run daily, and flight prices can swing wildly. We saw one ticket jump from $120 on a Monday to $327 on a Saturday! Being mindful of these factors made a tremendous difference in how smoothly our trip unfolded.
Mind the Time Warp
The time change caught me off guard, especially when flying east into Tahiti. Since we traveled through Australia and New Zealand, we essentially traveled back in time, landing a day before our departure! Our flight left Auckland on the afternoon of August 17th but arrived in Papeete on the evening of August 16th. I mistakenly booked our hotel in Papeete for the 17th, thinking that’s when we would arrive.
Thankfully, this mix-up is quite common. Booking.com sent a message double-checking the date, which allowed me to correct my mistake well in advance. Crisis averted!
Sonya Moore
Budgeting for Delicious (and Pricey) Food and Wine
Let’s be real: food and wine in French Polynesia are not cheap. For example, a simple hummus appetizer cost us $17, and the local coconut milk ceviche, known as poisson cru, was about the same. Main dishes frequently exceeded $30. French wine, by the bottle, typically ranged from $30 to $65 or more. If we had indulged in a bottle of Veuve Clicquot at a restaurant, it would have set us back $146. On the upside, everything we ate was absolutely delicious!
Sonya Moore
My Huahine Heartbeat: More Time There, Less in Bora Bora
We absolutely fell head over heels for Huahine, and frankly, four nights simply weren’t enough. We stayed in a beautiful Airbnb villa right on a private beach, overlooking a stunning lagoon, and the snorkeling was out of this world. I would have loved more days to just unwind in a hammock with a good book in that little slice of paradise. The villa itself was $250 a night, which felt like an incredible value for the experience.
Bora Bora, while undeniably beautiful, was less memorable for us. If I were to do it again, I wouldn’t mind skipping it altogether. Of course, if luxurious $2,000 overwater bungalows had been within our budget, perhaps Bora Bora would have stolen my heart completely!
Sonya Moore
Packing for Cooler Winds
French Polynesia doesn’t see dramatic temperature shifts throughout the year. August, which falls in the cooler season, typically has highs around 82°F and lows of 73°F. Average highs for the rest of the year are only slightly warmer, usually around 86°F. We packed light, tropical attire, assuming we’d be perfectly comfortable. What we didn’t fully appreciate was how windy this part of the world can be!
With the windchill factor, there were times we found ourselves shivering! We ended up having to buy some long-sleeved shirts. It’s worth noting that June to August is also the driest period, although we still encountered occasional light showers and overcast skies during our visit.
French Polynesia is truly an enchanting destination, and I’m already dreaming of a return trip. Next time, armed with these lessons learned, I’ll plan an even more perfectly tailored and unforgettable adventure!
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best way to travel between islands in French Polynesia?
For shorter routes, especially between nearby islands like Tahiti and Moorea or the islands within the Leeward Society Islands (Huahine, Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora), ferries are often more reliable, comfortable, and much cheaper. For longer distances or when specific schedules are needed, flights are the better option. Always check both ferry and flight schedules before finalizing accommodation plans.
Is it necessary to book inter-island travel in advance?
Yes, absolutely. Ferry services do not run daily on all routes, and flight prices can fluctuate dramatically. Booking well in advance helps secure your preferred times and often better prices, and it allows you to coordinate with your accommodation bookings.
How should I budget for food and drinks in French Polynesia?
Food and alcoholic beverages in French Polynesia can be quite expensive. Be prepared for main dishes often exceeding $30, appetizers around $17, and bottles of French wine generally ranging from $30 to $65. If you plan to dine out frequently or enjoy fine wines, allocate a generous budget for meals and drinks.
What should I pack for French Polynesia, beyond typical tropical clothes?
While tropical attire is standard, it’s highly recommended to pack some warm layers, such as long-sleeved shirts or a light jacket. French Polynesia, especially during the cooler, drier season (June to August), can be surprisingly windy. The windchill factor can make evenings and boat trips feel chilly, even with warm air temperatures.
Is Bora Bora always the best island to visit, or should I consider alternatives?
While Bora Bora is famous for its beauty, other islands like Huahine offer a different, often more tranquil and authentic experience. Huahine is known for its stunning lagoons and excellent snorkeling, often with more budget-friendly accommodation options than Bora Bora’s luxurious overwater bungalows. Consider spending more time on less touristy islands if you’re seeking a more relaxed and immersive cultural experience.
References
Air Tahiti
Apetahi Express
