Our recent trip to French Polynesia was an unforgettable journey, far exceeding expectations. We embarked on this adventure, celebrating a significant milestone, and found ourselves immersed in a landscape that resonated deeply with past memories while creating entirely new ones. What follows is a personal account of our experience, filled with insights and recommendations gleaned from our travels.
Arrival and Initial Impressions of Tahiti
We landed on a Friday evening, anticipating a lengthy customs process given the peak season and the influx of travelers. However, to our surprise, clearing customs was remarkably swift, taking only about 30-40 minutes from arrival to stepping out of the airport. This quick transition set a positive tone for the trip ahead.
Our first stop was an Airbnb in Papeete, a short cab ride from the airport. Papeete, 50 years later, presented a more developed yet charming facade than anticipated. While our initial impression of the immediate neighborhood around the Airbnb was less than ideal—a dark lane and noisy surroundings—the city itself gradually grew on us, revealing its unique character over the course of our stay. Our helpful cab driver, Shougon, skillfully navigated us through the city, eventually leading us to a local eatery, Chez Mamy, for our first Polynesian meal. Despite the lack of alcoholic beverages, the Chinese food and friendly atmosphere provided a warm welcome.
A minor hiccup emerged with a delayed flight on Air Tahiti, prompting a quick decision. Valuing every moment of our vacation, we opted to switch to an earlier ferry to Huahine. This required an early start and an additional expense, but the time zone change proved advantageous, easing the transition.
Huahine and the Start of Our Sailing Adventure
The next morning began with a delightful discovery: Boulangerie Firmin. Papeete is dotted with fantastic bakeries, but this one stood out for its incredible array of breads, pains au chocolat, and savory sandwiches. It was the perfect start to a day that would lead us towards Huahine. Shougon, our cab driver from the previous night, picked us up, and the opportunity to practice a bit of French and share stories from our past experiences in the region added a personal touch to the journey to the ferry terminal. A useful tip for anyone traveling in French Polynesia is to utilize WhatsApp for communication; it’s universally used and incredibly convenient for texting and calling.
The ferry journey to the Leeward Islands was seamless. We had purchased our tickets online, receiving QR codes within minutes, and streamlining the boarding process. A crucial piece of advice for this leg of the trip, and indeed for all of French Polynesia travel, is to pack light. Airlines and ferries alike are not conducive to excess luggage, and navigating multiple checked bags can be cumbersome. One bag per person for checked luggage was our approach, and it proved to be wise.
The ferry itself was a modern, fast catamaran, equipped with a café offering an enticing selection of food, including delicious pastries and savory dishes. The ride was smooth, though we heard it could be rougher during other seasons. Arriving in Huahine, the stunning blue and green waters of the harbor immediately evoked fond memories of past sailing adventures in the South Pacific. The beauty was truly breathtaking, captivating everyone in our group.
It was at this point that any lingering stress from organizing the trip began to dissipate. We were met at the dock by our crew, Steve, Benji, and Maeva, who led us to our catamaran, an older 50-foot Lagoon. Kicking off our shoes as we boarded, we embraced a week of barefoot living, which added an unexpected layer of freedom and enjoyment to the experience.
Life Aboard: Crewed Chartering in the Leeward Islands
Our choice to embark on a crewed charter was a deliberate one, a decision stemming from past experiences with bareboat charters. While sailing is a passion, the responsibilities of navigation, maintenance, and ensuring everyone’s enjoyment can be demanding. A crewed charter removed these stresses, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the beauty of French Polynesia. We found an independent captain with his own boat, which proved to be a more cost-effective option than larger charter companies.
The experience on board was exceptional. The crew, particularly Captain Steve, provided an almost perfect journey. For those interested in more details, his boat can be found on Click&Boat. Being on a boat allowed for unparalleled access to pristine snorkeling spots, remote rum farms, and the luxury of tailor-made experiences. An added benefit was the complete absence of mosquitoes, and the onboard meals, prepared by Maeva, were consistently superior to many restaurant experiences.
Huahine, our first stop, enchanted us with a beach that rivaled some of the most stunning we had ever seen, coupled with excellent snorkeling opportunities. From there, we sailed to Raiatea. The journey was met with light to medium seas, providing an authentic sailing experience. A highlight, though challenging, was hooking a 120-pound tuna. Though it ultimately snapped the line close to the boat, the excitement was palpable. Given that some in our group were experiencing seasickness, reaching the calm waters within the reef was a priority. We soon entered the spectacular lagoon surrounding both Raiatea and Taha’a, another incredible display of natural beauty.
Our days in this region included a memorable shark snorkeling adventure, where we found ourselves in the midst of 20 sharks in shallow waters, a truly exhilarating experience. We then sailed to Taha’a, visiting a pearl farm that sparked an interest in the local pearls. The food on board throughout this leg of the journey was consistently outstanding, featuring incredibly fresh fish prepared in numerous ways, earning Maeva humorous comparisons to Michelin-starred chefs for her culinary prowess.
One of the most remarkable snorkeling experiences was at Coral Gardens, between two tiny islands north of Taha’a. This drift snorkel, through shallow, vibrant coral, was as enjoyable and memorable as any we had experienced. The advantage of a sailboat meant we could visit these spots early, avoiding the crowds. Excursions to a charming rum factory and a vanilla farm on Taha’a offered a glimpse into the local industries before we set sail for Bora Bora.
Bora Bora: A Timeless Beauty
Approaching Bora Bora after 50 years, we were prepared for significant development, and indeed, luxurious resorts abound. However, the island has managed to retain an incredible charm, and its natural beauty remains breathtaking. What distinguishes Bora Bora, in our view, is the vast expanse of its shallow lagoon, creating an unbelievable palette of bright greens and blues. This contrasts with other volcanic islands and atolls where the lagoons are often much deeper.
We moored near the Bora Bora Yacht Club, a place known for its lively atmosphere. Our sailing route was around the northern tip of the island to the other side, as the southern waters are too shallow for navigation. An anticipated highlight was a manta ray sighting. Our captain, Benji, warned us that sightings could be hit or miss. To our delight, spotting two manta rays as we sailed provided an immediate opportunity. We quickly deployed the Zodiac, and within moments, we were in the water. We were incredibly fortunate to witness two majestic manta rays gliding gracefully below us. The plankton-rich waters, while not crystal clear, did not diminish the awe of the encounter. Then, in an astonishing turn of events, one of the mantas launched itself 12 feet out of the water directly in front of us, leaving us speechless. Capturing this incredible moment on camera, despite the wide-angle lens making it appear further than it was, solidified it as an unforgettable memory.
Later that day, we encountered a school of approximately 34-40 spotted eagle rays in deeper waters, another incredible spectacle. Our remaining time in Bora Bora included more snorkeling adventures, a brief squall that led us to shelter on a deserted motu, and a final shark dive near the Conrad hotel, where sharks swam gracefully through our group. Our last evening meal on the boat was at St. James, a beautiful waterside restaurant, though the food, unfortunately, did not impress as much as the setting.
Transitioning from the boat, we checked into an Airbnb, Villa Moana, in Vaitape. Its waterfront location offered an amazing view and was an excellent value. We then embarked on a fun excursion around the island in an electric jeep, affectionately dubbed the “Jeep de Barbie,” enjoying stunning views from the hill near the TV tower before heading to Matira Beach. We enjoyed a meal at the Bora Bora Beach Club, which, while pricey, boasted an unbeatable location. Circumventing the island, we eventually dropped off our friends at the airport ferry.
Our final dinner in Bora Bora, just the two of us, was at another restaurant also called Villa Moana, south of Vaitape. This meal proved to be the culinary highlight of our trip. With only seven tables, it offered an intimate dining experience, and the prix fixe menu with wine pairings was a splurge well worth it. Though not on the water, the food was exceptional, solidifying its place as potentially the best dining experience on the island.
Rangiroa: An Atoll Adventure
Our next destination was Rangiroa, a welcome change of scenery to an atoll. While we had primarily been on the water during our sailing trip, Rangiroa offered a completely different island experience. We opted for the Kia Ora, an excellent value with a beachfront bungalow, a hot tub, and an unobstructed lagoon view, including a fantastic buffet breakfast.
The hotel’s overwater bar was charming, and while service could be leisurely, the relaxed pace of French Polynesia had already set in. The simple yet delicious baguette sandwiches for lunch were a bargain. We had pre-booked excursions with Orana Excursions and 6 Passengers Diving, both highly recommended.
Guidebooks often highlight the tranquility and beauty of Rangiroa’s Blue Lagoon. However, what is often overlooked is the pervasive wind, transforming the vast lagoon into something resembling open ocean at times. Our excursion across the lagoon was an adventure in itself. A 34-foot boat, carrying about 15 people, battled strong winds and waves for a significant portion of the journey. While never dangerous, the ride was certainly exhilarating, with salt spray hitting our faces and frequent “levitations” from the bow.
Our first stop, Reef Island, was a serene and picturesque oasis, with calm waters and exposed coral structures. A wonderful barbecue lunch prepared by the crew further enhanced the experience. We decided to press on to the Blue Lagoon, which, while visually beautiful with its baby sharks, was churned up by the wind, making snorkeling less ideal. Had we known, a full day at Reef Island would have been our preference.
The journey back was equally eventful, with the Tahitian crew playing loud EDM-Tahitian music as the boat bounced over the waves. Our last stop before returning was the Aquarium, a popular diving and snorkeling spot near Tiputa Pass. Despite our exhaustion from the challenging ride, it offered a glimpse of its underwater wonders.
The next day, we explored the motu by scooter, a delightful experience with minimal traffic. We visited the Gauguin Pearl Farm, where we found the prices to be significantly higher than anticipated. While the staff were lovely, it underscored a common observation about prices in certain remote parts of the islands. Snack August and Antoinette offered a delicious and generously sized chicken burger and fish sandwich, a testament to the Polynesian fondness for good food.
That evening was spent watching dolphins at the pass before a truly memorable dinner at Relais de Josephine, a charming B&B with a restaurant offering unparalleled views of the pass. The owners, particularly Colloire, were incredibly welcoming. Upon learning it was our 25th wedding anniversary, complimentary aperitifs appeared as if by magic, and her husband even offered us a ride back in his unique, tent-covered pickup truck. This unforgettable night, with its single, delicious menu, stood out as a favorite.
Our time in Rangiroa also included an impressive scuba diving experience with 6 Passengers. The dive at the Aquarium was fantastic, and the dive at the pass, while challenging due to currents, offered incredible vistas for experienced divers. Our final day in Rangiroa involved a boat taxi to Tiputa, the neighboring motu, where we enjoyed a stroll through the quaint, timeless town, followed by fresh ahi carpaccio and Hinano beer at Chez Lili, overlooking the pass.
Return to Tahiti and Final Reflections
Our flight back to Faaa International was smooth and efficient. It was a testament to the convenient local travel infrastructure that we were picked up by bus just an hour before our flight, with ample time to spare. The genuine warmth from the airport staff, wishing us a swift return, left a lasting impression.
We rented a car from Tahiti Easy Car, an expense that highlighted the importance of booking transportation well in advance for better rates. Our final two nights were spent in Punaauia, at a lovely tiny home with a great view. This area, which held childhood memories for one of us, has grown considerably, with increased traffic during rush hour. Crossing the busy road to our driveway presented a minor challenge, a stark contrast to the quiet streets of 50 years ago.
Our last full day included a visit to Tahiti Pearl Market, where we finally found a perfect pearl. The staff, particularly Cleo, were exceptional, offering a wide selection and fair prices. Fate then led us to a profound personal moment when we recognized the elementary school attended as a child. The current principal, initially wary of our unannounced visit, was incredibly gracious after a brief conversation in French, providing a tour. This emotional return to a place of early memories, filled with gratitude for the kindness of a past teacher and the warmth of the Tahitian people, made the entire trip even more special.
A final tip for any traveler: learning a few phrases in French goes a long way. The effort to communicate, no matter how imperfect, is always appreciated and enhances the travel experience, fostering deeper connections with the local culture.
FAQ Section
Is French Polynesia an expensive destination?
French Polynesia can be an expensive destination, especially for luxury accommodations and specialized excursions. However, there are ways to manage costs, such as opting for Airbnbs or local guesthouses, choosing independent charter captains over large companies, and seeking out local eateries. Packing light can also save on baggage fees, and booking car rentals and certain excursions in advance can secure better rates.
What was the most surprising aspect of the trip?
One of the most surprising aspects was the efficiency of customs upon arrival, which was much quicker than anticipated. Another was the sheer natural beauty of places like Bora Bora’s shallow lagoon, which was even more stunning than remembered, and the unexpected challenges presented by the wind in Rangiroa’s vast lagoon.
Do I need to speak French to enjoy a trip to French Polynesia?
While English is spoken in many tourist areas, having some basic French phrases can significantly enhance your experience. Locals genuinely appreciate the effort to communicate in their language, fostering warmer interactions and potentially opening doors to more authentic experiences. There are many opportunities to learn French both before and during your trip.
What are some essential packing tips for French Polynesia?
Packing light is highly recommended. Airlines and inter-island ferries can charge extra for multiple checked bags, and constant moving between islands means you’ll be carrying your luggage frequently. Focus on versatile, lightweight clothing, swimwear, and essential toiletries. Don’t forget reef-safe sunscreen, insect repellent (though not an issue on boats), a wide-brimmed hat, and comfortable footwear for walking and exploring.
How did the sailing experience compare to other modes of travel?
The crewed sailing charter offered an unparalleled experience, allowing for flexible itineraries, access to remote snorkeling spots and local farms, and the luxury of having meals prepared onboard. It removed the stress of bareboat chartering, enabling full immersion in the destination. It provided a unique perspective of the islands that land-based travel might not.
References List
- Michelin Guide
- Click&Boat
French Polynesia offers an extraordinary journey, a tapestry of vibrant cultures, breathtaking landscapes, and unforgettable experiences. Whether you seek thrilling adventures, serene relaxation, or profound personal connections, this destination delivers. We encourage you to plan your own immersive journey to these enchanting islands and discover the unique magic that awaits.
