Bora Bora Trip Report: Two Weeks in Paradise

Our recent journey through French Polynesia was an absolute dream, a truly unforgettable escape that felt even more special than I had imagined. It was a chance to revisit cherished memories while creating entirely new ones, a delicate balance that this magical place manages to strike with effortless grace. Every moment felt like a gift, and I’m so excited to share what I discovered and loved.

Tahiti Arrival and City Vibes

We arrived on a Friday evening, expecting the usual hustle and bustle of a busy airport, especially during peak season. To our delight, clearing customs was remarkably smooth and quick, taking less than an hour. This speedy transition set a wonderfully relaxed tone for the rest of our trip.

Our initial plan was an Airbnb in Papeete, just a short taxi ride from the airport. Honestly, the immediate street around our rental wasn’t the most picturesque, a bit dark and noisy. But Papeete itself, even with its modern developments, has this enchanting character that really grew on me. The city just radiates a unique Polynesian charm.

Our kind taxi driver, Shougon, was brilliant, navigating us through the streets and even taking us to a local spot, Chez Mamy, for our first taste of Polynesian cuisine. They didn’t serve alcohol, but the Chinese food was delicious, and the atmosphere was so warm and welcoming. It felt like a true local experience.

We had a slight hiccup with a delayed flight on Air Tahiti, which meant a quick reshuffle. Since every moment counts when you’re traveling, we decided to catch an earlier ferry to Huahine. It meant an early start, but the time difference helped us ease into the island rhythm.

Island Hopping Kickstart

The next morning began with a delightful discovery: Boulangerie Firmin. Papeete is full of amazing bakeries, but this one truly stood out. The selection of breads, pastries, and sandwiches was incredible. It was the perfect prelude to our journey towards Huahine.

Shougon, our taxi driver from the night before, picked us up again. It was a lovely chance to practice my French and share stories about our past adventures in the region as we headed to the ferry terminal. A little tip I’ve found so useful across French Polynesia is using WhatsApp for all communication; everyone uses it, and it makes staying in touch so easy.

The ferry trip to the Leeward Islands was surprisingly seamless. We booked our tickets online beforehand and received QR codes almost immediately, which made boarding a breeze. A crucial piece of advice for this journey, and really for all travel in French Polynesia, is to pack light. Airlines and ferries are quite strict, and managing heavy luggage is a real hassle. We stuck to one checked bag per person, which worked out wonderfully.

The ferry itself was a modern, fast catamaran. It had a lovely café onboard with delicious pastries and savory options. The ride was quite smooth, though I’ve heard it can get a bit rougher depending on the season. Arriving in Huahine, the vibrant blue and green hues of the harbor instantly brought back wonderful memories of sailing trips in the South Pacific. The beauty was just breathtaking.

In that moment, all the pre-trip planning stress just melted away. We were met by our crew – Steve, Benji, and Maeva – who welcomed us aboard our catamaran, a beautiful 50-foot Lagoon. The moment we stepped onto the deck, we kicked off our shoes, embracing a week of barefoot living. It added such a wonderful sense of freedom and joy to the entire experience.

Sailing in Paradise

Choosing a crewed charter was a deliberate decision, based on my past experiences with bareboat charters. While I adore sailing, being the one responsible for navigation, maintenance, and ensuring everyone has an amazing time can be quite demanding. A crewed charter meant we could truly relax and soak in the incredible surroundings of French Polynesia.

We found an independent captain with his own boat, which felt like a more personal and cost-effective option compared to some of the larger charter companies. The experience on board was absolutely stellar. Our captain, Steve, and the crew orchestrated an almost perfect week for us.

Being on a sailboat gives you access to the most incredible, secluded spots. We found ourselves at pristine snorkeling locations and remote rum farms, enjoying experiences tailored just for us. And a huge bonus? Absolutely no mosquitoes! The meals prepared by Maeva were consistently divine, often surpassing many restaurant meals we’ve had.

Huahine was our first stop, and it truly enchanted us with a beach that rivaled some of the most stunning I’ve ever seen, not to mention the fantastic snorkeling. From there, we sailed to Raiatea. The journey involved sailing in light to medium seas, which was a wonderful, authentic sailing experience.

A thrilling moment, though quite challenging, was hooking a 120-pound tuna! It managed to snap the line near the boat, but the excitement was electric. Since some in our group were feeling a bit seasick, reaching the calm waters within the reef was a welcome relief. We soon entered the spectacular lagoon that encircles both Raiatea and Taha’a, another absolutely mesmerizing display of nature’s artistry.

Our days in this region included a truly exhilarating shark snorkeling adventure. We found ourselves swimming with about 20 sharks in shallow, clear waters – an experience that was both thrilling and humbling. Afterwards, we sailed to Taha’a and visited a pearl farm. It sparked such an interest in the local pearls.

The food on board throughout this part of the journey was consistently outstanding. Incredibly fresh fish prepared in so many delicious ways earned Maeva humorous comparisons to Michelin-starred chefs. Her culinary skills were truly remarkable.

One of the most memorable snorkeling experiences was at Coral Gardens, a spot nestled between two tiny islands north of Taha’a. This drift snorkel through shallow, vibrant coral was as enjoyable and unforgettable as any I’ve experienced. The beauty of having a sailboat meant we could arrive early and enjoy these gems before the crowds.

We also took excursions to a charming rum factory and a vanilla farm on Taha’a, offering a lovely insight into the island’s local industries, before setting sail for the iconic Bora Bora.

Bora Bora’s Enduring Charm

As we approached Bora Bora after all these years, I braced myself for extensive development. While luxurious resorts are certainly present, the island has miraculously retained its incredible charm, and its natural beauty remains utterly breathtaking. What truly sets Bora Bora apart, in my opinion, is the sheer vastness of its shallow lagoon. It creates an unbelievable spectrum of vibrant greens and blues, unlike any other place I’ve seen.

We moored near the Bora Bora Yacht Club, which is known for its lively and welcoming atmosphere. Our sailing route took us around the northern tip of the island, hugging the coast, as the southern waters are incredibly shallow and not navigable for our boat.

One of the moments I was most looking forward to was a manta ray sighting. Our captain, Benji, had cautioned us that sightings could be unpredictable. To our absolute delight, we spotted two manta rays as we sailed! We quickly deployed the Zodiac, and within moments, we were in the water, watching these magnificent creatures glide effortlessly below us.

The plankton-rich waters, while not as crystal clear as one might imagine, did not diminish the sheer awe of the encounter. Then, in an absolutely astonishing twist, one of the mantas launched itself nearly 12 feet out of the water directly in front of us, leaving us completely speechless! Capturing this incredible moment on camera, even with a wide-angle lens making it appear further away than it was, made it an absolutely unforgettable memory.

Later that same day, we encountered a school of approximately 34-40 spotted eagle rays in deeper waters – another breathtaking spectacle. Our remaining time in Bora Bora included more delightful snorkeling, a brief squall that led us to seek shelter on a deserted motu, and a final shark dive near the Conrad hotel, where the sharks swam so gracefully around our group.

Our last evening meal on the boat was at St. James, a beautiful waterside restaurant. While the setting was stunning, the food, unfortunately, didn’t quite live up to the incredible views.

Transitioning from the boat, we checked into an Airbnb, Villa Moana, in Vaitape. Its waterfront location offered an amazing view and was exceptionally good value. We then embarked on a fun island excursion in an electric jeep, which we playfully nicknamed the “Jeep de Barbie.” It offered stunning vistas from the hill near the TV tower, and we made our way to the famous Matira Beach.

We enjoyed a meal at the Bora Bora Beach Club. Although it was a bit pricey, the location was simply unbeatable. Driving around the island, we eventually dropped off our friends at the airport ferry, their journey continuing.

Our final dinner in Bora Bora, just the two of us, was at another restaurant also named Villa Moana, located south of Vaitape. This meal turned out to be the culinary highlight of our entire trip. With only seven tables, it offered an intimate dining experience, and the prix fixe menu with wine pairings was an indulgence that felt entirely worthwhile. Even though it wasn’t on the water, the food was simply exceptional, cementing its place as perhaps the best dining experience on the island.

Rangiroa’s Atoll Wonders

Our next destination was Rangiroa, a fantastic change of scenery to an atoll. After spending most of our time on the water, Rangiroa offered a completely different, yet equally captivating, island experience. We chose to stay at the Kia Ora, which offered excellent value. Our beachfront bungalow came with a hot tub and an unobstructed lagoon view, and the buffet breakfast was simply fantastic.

The hotel’s overwater bar was incredibly charming. While the service could be a little leisurely at times, we had already fully embraced the relaxed pace of French Polynesia. The simple yet delicious baguette sandwiches for lunch were a real bargain.

We had pre-booked our excursions with Orana Excursions and 6 Passengers Diving, both of which I highly recommend. Guidebooks often rave about the tranquility and beauty of Rangiroa’s Blue Lagoon. However, what’s often not emphasized enough is the persistent wind, which can transform the vast lagoon into something that feels remarkably like the open ocean at times.

Our excursion across the lagoon was an adventure in itself. A 34-foot boat, carrying about 15 people, battled strong winds and waves for a good portion of the journey. It was never dangerous, but the ride was certainly exhilarating, with salt spray a constant companion and the boat frequently lifting off the waves.

Our first stop, Reef Island, was a serene and picturesque oasis, with incredibly calm waters and beautifully exposed coral structures. A wonderful barbecue lunch prepared by the crew made the experience even more delightful. We decided to press on to the Blue Lagoon. While visually stunning, with its abundant baby sharks, the wind had churned up the water, making snorkeling a bit less ideal.

Looking back, if we had known, we might have opted for a full day spent at Reef Island. The journey back was equally eventful, with the Tahitian crew playing loud EDM-Tahitian music as our boat bounced over the waves. Our last stop before heading back to the hotel was the Aquarium, a popular spot for diving and snorkeling near Tiputa Pass. Despite our exhaustion from the challenging boat ride, it offered a tantalizing glimpse of the wonders beneath the surface.

The following day, we rented scooters to explore the motu. This was a delightful experience with minimal traffic. We visited the Gauguin Pearl Farm. We found the prices here to be significantly higher than we anticipated. While the staff were lovely, it did reinforce a common observation about prices in certain remote island locations.

Snack August and Antoinette offered a delicious and generously portioned chicken burger and fish sandwich, a testament to the local love for great food. That evening, we spent time watching dolphins play at the pass before a truly memorable dinner at Relais de Josephine. This charming B&B also boasts a restaurant with unparalleled views of the pass. The owners, especially Colloire, were incredibly welcoming.

Upon discovering it was our 25th wedding anniversary, complimentary aperitifs appeared as if by magic. Her husband even offered us a ride back in his unique, tent-covered pickup truck! This unforgettable night, with its single, exquisite tasting menu, stood out as one of my absolute favorites.

Our time in Rangiroa also included an incredible scuba diving experience with 6 Passengers. The dive at the Aquarium was simply fantastic, and the dive at the pass, while challenging due to the currents, offered breathtaking vistas for experienced divers. Our final day in Rangiroa involved a boat taxi to Tiputa, the neighboring motu. We enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the quaint, timeless village, followed by fresh ahi carpaccio and a cold Hinano beer at Chez Lili, overlooking the pass.

Tahiti Farewell

Our flight back to Faaa International was remarkably smooth and efficient. It really highlighted the convenience of the local travel infrastructure; we were picked up by bus just an hour before our flight and still had plenty of time to spare. The genuine warmth from the airport staff, wishing us a swift return, left a lasting, positive impression.

We rented a car from Tahiti Easy Car. This was an expense that truly underscored the importance of booking transportation well in advance to secure better rates. Our final two nights were spent in Punaauia, at a lovely little house with a fantastic view. This area holds some childhood memories for me, and it has certainly grown considerably, with increased traffic during rush hour.

Crossing the busy road to reach our driveway presented a minor challenge, a stark contrast to the quiet streets I remembered from 50 years ago. Our last full day included a visit to the Tahiti Pearl Market, where I finally found the perfect pearl. The staff, especially Cleo, were exceptional, offering a wonderful selection and fair prices.

Then, in a moment of pure serendipity, we recognized the elementary school I attended as a child. The current principal, initially a bit hesitant about our unannounced visit, was incredibly gracious after a brief conversation in French. He even gave us a tour. This emotional return to a place of early memories, filled with gratitude for the kindness of a past teacher and the enduring warmth of the Tahitian people, made the entire trip even more profoundly special.

A final tip for any traveler venturing to this beautiful part of the world: learning even a few basic French phrases can make a world of difference. The genuine effort to communicate, no matter how imperfect your accent, is always deeply appreciated and significantly enhances the travel experience, fostering much deeper connections with the local culture.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is French Polynesia an expensive destination?
French Polynesia can indeed be an expensive destination, particularly if you opt for luxury accommodations and specialized excursions. However, there are many ways to manage costs effectively. Consider alternatives like Airbnbs or local guesthouses, choose independent charter captains over larger companies, and seek out authentic local eateries for dining. Packing light can also save on baggage fees, and booking car rentals and certain excursions in advance can often secure better rates.

What was the most surprising aspect of the trip?
One of the most delightful surprises was how remarkably quick and efficient customs was upon arrival; it was far quicker than anticipated. Another surprise was the sheer, overwhelming natural beauty of places like Bora Bora’s shallow lagoon; it was even more stunning than my memories suggested. I was also surprised by the significant impact of the wind on Rangiroa’s vast lagoon, which transformed it into a dynamic, energetic body of water.

Do I need to speak French to enjoy a trip to French Polynesia?
While English is commonly spoken in many tourist areas, having a few basic French phrases can significantly enrich your travel experience. The local people genuinely appreciate the effort to communicate in their language, which often leads to warmer interactions and can unlock access to more authentic cultural experiences. There are numerous resources for learning French both before your trip and during your stay.

What are some essential packing tips for French Polynesia?
Packing light is highly recommended. Airlines and inter-island ferries can impose extra charges for multiple checked bags, and the frequent movement between islands means you’ll be handling your luggage often. Focus on versatile, lightweight clothing, plenty of swimwear, and essential toiletries. Don’t forget reef-safe sunscreen, insect repellent (though this wasn’t an issue on our boat trips), a wide-brimmed hat for sun protection, and comfortable footwear suitable for walking and exploring.

How did the sailing experience compare to other modes of travel?
The crewed sailing charter offered an unparalleled experience, providing immense flexibility with our itinerary, granting access to remote snorkeling spots and local farms, and offering the luxury of having delicious meals prepared onboard. It completely removed the stresses associated with bareboat chartering, allowing for complete immersion in the destination. It provided a truly unique perspective of the islands that land-based travel simply cannot match.

Further Resources

• Michelin Guide
• Click&Boat

French Polynesia offers an extraordinary journey, a vibrant tapestry of rich cultures, awe-inspiring landscapes, and truly unforgettable experiences. Whether you are seeking thrilling adventures, serene moments of relaxation, or profound personal connections, this destination promises to deliver. I wholeheartedly encourage you to plan your own immersive journey to these enchanting islands and discover the unique magic that awaits you there.