Bora Bora isn’t just about overwater bungalows and fancy cocktails. Peel back the glossy veneer and you’ll find a heart beating with authentic Polynesian culture in its villages. This guide will take you beyond the resorts, showing you how to experience the real Bora Bora, from local life to hidden gems.
Vaitape: The Island’s Bustling Heart
Vaitape is Bora Bora’s main village and is located on the western side of the main island. It’s the most populated area and serves as the administrative and commercial hub. Walking through Vaitape gives you a true sense of local life that you won’t find in the resorts. You’ll hear French and Tahitian spoken, smell the fragrant local cuisine cooking, and see daily routines unfold.
What to See and Do:
- Shop at Chin Lee Supermarket: This is the main supermarket. It’s a great place to buy snacks, drinks, and essentials at local prices. Check out the local snacks and produce sections for a taste of Polynesian flavors.
- Visit the Vaitape Market: Open mainly in the mornings, the local market is a vibrant hub. You’ll find fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers, and handcrafted souvenirs. It’s a fantastic spot for meeting locals and learning about their crafts.
- Stroll Along the Waterfront: Enjoy a leisurely walk along the waterfront where you can watch the boats coming and going. The views of Mount Otemanu from here are spectacular, especially during sunrise or sunset.
- Eat at a Local Restaurant: Skip the resort restaurants for a meal in Vaitape. Several small eateries offer authentic Polynesian dishes at affordable prices. Look for places frequented by locals for the most genuine experience.
- Explore the Pearl Shops: Bora Bora is famous for its black pearls. Several pearl shops in Vaitape offer a range of pearls at different prices. Be sure to do your research and understand pearl quality before making a purchase.
Getting There: Vaitape is easily accessible by taxi, Le Truck (the local bus), or rental car from most points on the island. Many resorts offer shuttle services to Vaitape as well. Le Truck costs around 200-300 XPF (about $2-3 USD) per ride.
Practical Tip: Learning a few basic French phrases can go a long way in Vaitape. While many people speak some English, locals appreciate the effort to communicate in their language. Bonjour (hello), Merci (thank you), and Au revoir (goodbye) are good starting points.
Anau: The Manta Ray Sanctuary
Located on the eastern side of Bora Bora, Anau is a quieter village known for its incredible snorkeling and diving spots, particularly its manta ray cleaning station. Unlike the bustle of Vaitape, Anau offers a tranquil escape and a chance to connect with nature.
What to See and Do:
- Manta Ray Snorkeling or Diving: This is the main draw. Numerous tour operators run excursions to the manta ray cleaning station in Anau. This spot is where manta rays gather to have parasites removed by smaller fish. Witnessing these majestic creatures gliding gracefully through the water is an unforgettable experience.
- Visit the Anau Church: A small and charming church that offers a glimpse into the local religious life. It is a simple yet beautiful building with a serene atmosphere.
- Relax on the Beaches: Anau boasts several secluded beaches perfect for relaxing and soaking up the sun. These beaches are less crowded than Matira Beach and offer a more peaceful experience.
- Explore the Coastal Road: Rent a bicycle or scooter and explore the coastal road that winds through Anau. You’ll pass by traditional homes, lush vegetation, and stunning lagoon views.
- Have a Picnic Lunch: Pack a picnic and find a scenic spot along the coast to enjoy a leisurely lunch. Several small shops in Anau sell snacks and drinks.
Getting There: Anau is best reached by boat or taxi. Some resorts offer boat transfers. You can also hire a taxi from Vaitape. Consider renting a car if you want maximum flexibility to explore the island. The road to Anau is paved but can be narrow in places.
Cost: Manta ray snorkeling tours generally range from 8,000 to 12,000 XPF (approximately $70-$110 USD) per person. Taxis from Vaitape will vary depending on your negotiation skills, but expect to pay around 5,000 – 7,000 XPF for round trip. Rental cars are a relatively cheaper option if you can afford 8,000 to 10,000 XPF per day.
Faanui: History and Heritage
Sitting on the northern side of Bora Bora, Faanui is a village steeped in history. It’s home to the remains of American WWII installations and ancient Polynesian sites, offering a fascinating contrast to the island’s more glamorous attractions.
What to See and Do:
- Visit the Faanui Bay: This is the largest bay on Bora Bora and played a significant role during World War II when the US Navy used it as a supply base. Explore the remnants of the American presence, including old cannons and bunkers.
- Explore the Marae Fare Rua: This is one of the most important ancient Polynesian sites on Bora Bora. Marae were sacred places used for religious and social ceremonies. Marae Fare Rua offers a glimpse into the island’s pre-European history.
- Hike to a Viewpoint: Several hiking trails around Faanui offer stunning views of the bay and surrounding mountains. Ask locals for recommendations on the best trails. However, be aware that many trails are unmarked and could be challenging on a humid day.
- Meet Local Artisans: Faanui is known for its talented artisans. Visit local workshops to see craftspeople creating traditional Polynesian crafts, such as wood carvings and pareos.
- Try Local Specialties: Look for small food stalls or family-run restaurants in Faanui offering local specialties like poisson cru (raw fish marinated in coconut milk and lime juice) or kaikai (local delicacies).
Getting There: Faanui is accessible by road. You can drive there in your own car, take a taxi, or hop on Le Truck. The road leading to Faanui is generally in good condition.
Historical Context: During World War II, the U.S. built a naval base in Bora Bora (Operation Bobcat) as a supply depot. The base was eventually dismantled in June 1946, but you can still find remnants of this operation in the area. This provides context for some of the unexpected features you’ll encounter.
The Untold Stories of the People
Beyond the specific villages, interacting with the people of Bora Bora is key to experiencing its authentic culture. Remember that respect and openness go a long way.
Tips for Respectful Interaction:
- Learn a Few Words of Tahitian: Even a simple “Ia Orana” (hello) or “Mauruuru” (thank you) will be appreciated.
- Dress Modestly When Visiting Villages: Avoid wearing revealing clothing, especially when visiting religious sites.
- Ask Permission Before Taking Photos: Always ask for permission before taking photos of people, especially in more traditional settings.
- Support Local Businesses: Shop at local stores, eat at local restaurants, and hire local guides to support the local economy.
- Be Mindful of Customs: Polynesians value slow pace. Be patient and avoid rushing people.
Attending Local Events:
Keep an eye out local events and festivals. These celebrations are a great way to experience Polynesian culture firsthand. Heiva is a good example. While it takes place in July, its effects are felt across the entire island, with traditional music, dance, and crafts.
Practical Tips for Exploring Beyond the Resort
Venturing beyond the resorts takes a little planning, but the rewards are well worth the effort. Here’s a detailed practical guide to help you do so:
Transportation:
Le Truck: The local bus, “Le Truck”, is a colorful and affordable way to get around Bora Bora. It travels a circular route around the main island. The cost is generally 200-300 XPF per ride or journey (prices fluctuate). Check with local vendors for the most reliable and up-to-date timetable. It’s not as frequent as a regular bus service, but offers a unique localized experience.
Rental Car: Renting a car gives you the most flexibility to explore at your own pace. Several rental agencies operate in Bora Bora. Be sure to book in advance, especially during peak season. You can easily rent a car from Avis at the Bora Bora Airport. Driving is a great way to explore many locations and to see the beautiful landscapes of Bora Bora. Expect to pay from 8,000 to 10,000 XPF per day.
Scooter or Bicycle: A scooter or bicycle is a fun and eco-friendly way to explore the villages and coastal roads. Be aware of traffic and road conditions and always wear a helmet. Many hotels or guest houses have rentals available, but the daily charges would be similar to that of a rental car. Also, be highly mindful of the weather conditions as the sun is intense.
Taxi: Taxis are readily available, especially in Vaitape. However, they can be expensive. Be sure to negotiate the fare before getting in. Many resorts also call up and book taxis for you. This ease of access definitely adds slightly to the final price. It is best to learn a few phrases in French so you can haggle and negotiate the price.
Boat: For reaching certain areas, or nearby motus (islets), boat is essential as some resorts are only accessible by boat.
Accommodation:
While overwater bungalows are iconic, consider staying in a local guesthouse or pension for a more immersive experience. These accommodations are often more affordable and provide a chance to interact with local families.
Food and Drink:
Embrace the local cuisine! Seek out smaller restaurants and food stalls offering traditional Polynesian dishes. Don’t be afraid to try something new. Poisson cru, taro, and fresh seafood are all must-tries.
Safety:
Bora Bora is generally a safe island. However, it’s always wise to take precautions. Be aware of your surroundings, especially at night. Lock your valuables in your accommodation. Drink bottled water to avoid stomach issues that may arise from drinking tap water.
Where to Stay for an Authentic Experience
Choosing the right accommodation can dramatically enhance your experience of Bora Bora’s authentic side. While the resorts offer luxury, staying in local guesthouses or pensions provides a more intimate glimpse into island life.
Pensions and Guesthouses:
Pensions and guesthouses are small, family-run accommodations that offer a more personal experience. You’ll often have the chance to interact with the owners, learn about their culture, and even share meals with them. Several pensions are located in the villages, providing easy access to local life.
Rental Homes:
Renting an apartment or house can be a great option if you want more space and privacy. You can find rental homes on sites like Airbnb or VRBO, often at a fraction of the cost of a resort room. This also gives you the chance to live like a local, shopping at markets and cooking your own meals.
Examples of Local Accommodations:
To provide a more targeted list, I am listing out some examples of well-reviewed accommodations around Bora Bora.
- Pension Alice et Raphael: A highly-rated pension with a family that are well-known for sharing home-cooked meals, offering tours, and overall hospitality.
- Rohotu Fare Lodge: A well-known guesthouse that offers more high-end accommodation for those with a bigger budget. The views are stunning offering serenity for its customers.
- Fare Toka Home: A home rental that offers free parking and WiFi access, with a fully equipped kitchen.
Booking Tips:
When booking accommodations, read reviews carefully and look for those that mention interactions with the owners and local experiences. Be sure to confirm what amenities are included, such as Wi-Fi and breakfast—and check if they also help with boat shuttle arrival and departure.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is Bora Bora only for honeymooners and luxury travelers?
No, while Bora Bora is known for its romantic appeal and high-end resorts, it also has a lot to offer budget travelers and those interested in experiencing the local culture. Staying in guesthouses, eating at local restaurants, and exploring the villages are all ways to experience Bora Bora without breaking the bank.
What is the best way to get around Bora Bora without renting a car?
Le Truck (the local bus) is an affordable option for getting around the main island. Taxis are also available, but they can be expensive. Alternatively, you can rent a bicycle or scooter for a more eco-friendly way to explore.
What should I pack when visiting Bora Bora?
Pack light, breathable clothing, swimwear, sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses. If you plan on hiking, be sure to bring sturdy shoes. It’s also a good idea to bring insect repellent, especially if you’re visiting during the rainy season.
Is it safe to drink the tap water in Bora Bora?
It’s generally recommended to drink bottled water to avoid any potential stomach issues.
What are some must-try local dishes in Bora Bora?
Some must-try local dishes include poisson cru (raw fish marinated in coconut milk and lime juice), taro, fresh seafood, and kaikai (local delicacies).
What is the local currency in Bora Bora?
The local currency is the CFP franc (XPF). Credit cards are widely accepted, but it’s always a good idea to have some cash on hand, especially when visiting local markets or smaller establishments.
Do I need to speak French or Tahitian to visit Bora Bora?
While French and Tahitian are the official languages, many people in Bora Bora speak some English, especially in tourist areas. Learning a few basic phrases in French or Tahitian can enhance your experience and be appreciated by locals.
What are the best months to visit Bora Bora?
The best months to visit Bora Bora are generally April, May, September, and October, when the weather is pleasant and the crowds are smaller.
References
Lonely Planet. French Polynesia.
Rough Guides. The Rough Guide to French Polynesia.
Bora Bora Tourism Authority. Official website.
Ready to discover the real Bora Bora? Pack your bags, leave the resort behind, and immerse yourself in the island’s vibrant culture. Explore the villages, meet the locals, and create memories that will last a lifetime. Your authentic Polynesian adventure awaits.