Bora Bora is synonymous with stunning overwater bungalows and turquoise lagoons, but its culinary scene deserves equal attention. Beyond the breathtaking views, a delicious adventure awaits, filled with unique Polynesian flavors. I spent a week immersed in Bora Bora’s food culture, sampling everything from traditional Tahitian feasts to modern interpretations of classic dishes. This is my honest, no-holds-barred ranking of Bora Bora’s most iconic Polynesian delicacies, designed to guide your own taste bud adventures.
The Allure of Poisson Cru: Tahitian National Dish
Let’s start with Poisson Cru, arguably the most famous dish in all of French Polynesia. It’s essentially raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk. Sounds simple, right? But the magic is in the freshness of the ingredients and the balance of flavors. I sampled Poisson Cru at several locations. Ranging from the fancy overwater bungalow restaurants to the simple cafes in Vaitape, and the experience varied significantly.
My top pick? The Poisson Cru at Bloody Mary’s. Yes, that Bloody Mary’s. While known for its celebrity sightings and lively atmosphere, their Poisson Cru was surprisingly the most authentic. The fish (typically tuna or mahi-mahi) was impeccably fresh, the lime juice was perfectly tart, and the coconut milk was rich and creamy. They also added finely chopped vegetables, like tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions, providing a welcome crunch and a burst of flavor. The key to this dish is the quality of the fish. If the fish isn’t fresh, the dish is inedible. At Bloody Mary’s, the fish was clearly caught that day.
Another noteworthy version was at La Matira Beach Restaurant. Their presentation was beautiful, served in a half coconut shell, but the flavor profile leaned a bit too heavily on the lime. It was still good, but lacked the subtle sweetness that I appreciated in Bloody Mary’s version. Price-wise, expect to pay around 2500-3500 XPF (around $25-$35 USD) for Poisson Cru, depending on the restaurant.
Pro-tip: Don’t be afraid to try Poisson Cru from smaller, local cafes. These are often the most authentic and affordable. Just make sure the place looks clean and the fish is properly refrigerated.
The Earth Oven Experience: Exploring ‘Ahima’a Feasting
‘Ahima’a, the traditional Polynesian earth oven, is more than just a cooking method; it’s a cultural experience. Meats and vegetables are wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked in an underground oven filled with hot stones. The result is incredibly tender, smoky, and flavorful food.
Several resorts offer ‘Ahima’a feasts as part of their Polynesian nights. I attended one at the InterContinental Bora Bora & Thalasso Spa by IHG Resort & Thalasso Spa. While the setting, complete with traditional music and dance, was spectacular, the food itself was good but not exceptional. The slow cooking process means that many things taste very similar; smoky and tender, but without a distinctive flavor profile.
At the intercontinental Bora Bora Resort, the Fei (plantain) was delicious and very starchy. The pig was fork-tender and fell apart but was not crispy. The variety was excellent, but the overall flavor profile was not as pronounced as I hoped. Still, experiencing an ‘Ahima’a feast is a must-do in Bora Bora for its cultural significance alone.
What the Intercontinental lacked in complex flavors, they made up in the show. The unearthing of the oven is so much more than a display of food–but a symbol of how significant the earth is to Polynesian culture.
Expect to pay anywhere from 15,000 to 25,000 XPF (approximately $150-$250 USD) for an ‘Ahima’a feast, depending on the resort and what’s included. Be sure to check the menu beforehand.
Fafa: A Taste of Taro Leaves
Fafa is a traditional dish made from taro leaves cooked with coconut milk and either chicken, corned beef, or fish. It’s a humble dish, often overlooked by tourists, but it represents a staple of Polynesian cuisine. I found Fafa to be a bit of an acquired taste. The taro leaves have a slightly earthy and sometimes bitter flavor, which can be off-putting if you’re not expecting it. But when prepared well, the bitterness is balanced by the richness of the coconut milk and the savory meat.
The best Fafa I had was at a small, family-run restaurant in Vaitape called “Fare Manuia.” The owner, a sweet Tahitian woman named Mama Roro, made it with chicken and plenty of coconut milk. The taro leaves were tender and the chicken was flavorful. It felt like a truly authentic, home-cooked Polynesian meal. The restaurant itself is very simple, with plastic tables and chairs, but the food is incredibly affordable and delicious. A generous portion of Fafa cost me only around 1000 XPF (about $10 USD).
Tip: If you’re unsure about the taste of taro leaves, start with a small portion. Ask your server for a recommendation on where to find the best Fafa in town. You can also ask for it with extra coconut milk if you are timid about trying it the first time.
Po’e: Sweet Potato Pudding
Po’e is a traditional Polynesian dessert made from mashed fruits, usually sweet potatoes, pumpkin, or bananas, mixed with tapioca and coconut milk, then baked in an earth oven. It results in a dense, pudding-like consistency with a subtle sweetness. It’s also often topped with extra coconut cream for added richness.
I tried Po’e at several different restaurants, and the quality varied significantly. Some versions were dry and bland, while others were moist, flavorful, and downright addictive. The key is to find a Po’e that is freshly made with high-quality ingredients.
My favorite Po’e came from a local bakery in Anau. This bakery does not really have a name (only what Bora Borans call them), but they supply the entire island with bread and desserts. It was moist, slightly sweet, and had a subtle hint of cinnamon. The coconut cream topping was rich and decadent. This Po’e melted in my mouth and left me wanting more. The cost was very reasonable, around 500 XPF (about $5 USD) for a decent-sized portion.
Tip: Ask locals for recommendations on where to find the best Po’e in town. Bakeries and small cafes are often your best bet. Always try a fresh batch, as Po’e tends to dry out quickly. Po’e also comes in a wide range of fruits, so ask about sampling them.
The Intrigue of Breadfruit: Utu
Breadfruit, or ‘Uru in Tahitian, is a large, starchy fruit that’s a staple of Polynesian cuisine. It can be prepared in various ways – baked, fried, grilled, or even boiled. The flavor is often described as being similar to a potato or bread, hence the name. The texture can be starchy and dense, but when cooked properly, it can be quite delicious.
I wasn’t initially impressed with breadfruit. The first time I tried it, it was boiled and quite bland. However, during a cooking demonstration at the St. Regis Bora Bora Resort, I had the opportunity to sample grilled breadfruit with a drizzle of coconut oil and sea salt. It was a revelation! The grilling process brought out the natural sweetness of the breadfruit, and the coconut oil added a subtle richness.
For an adventurous foodie who wants to try more breadfruit, I would recommend going to a local market. In general, markets can be a great place to sample some local fare. Be sure to bring cash. The price of breadfruit is very affordable, and it depends on the size. You can find a breadfruit for approximately $3 USD and up.
Tip: Don’t judge breadfruit until you’ve tried it grilled or baked. Ask your server about breadfruit preparations. Explore it with different toppings. A little salt goes a long way!
Beyond the Classics: Unique Culinary Encounters
While Poisson Cru, ‘Ahima’a, Fafa, Po’e, and breadfruit are the cornerstones of Polynesian cuisine in Bora Bora, be sure to venture beyond these classics. The island also boasts a thriving restaurant scene with chefs who are creatively blending traditional ingredients with modern techniques.
One of my most memorable dining experiences was at the Lagoon Restaurant by Jean-Georges at the St. Regis Bora Bora Resort. This restaurant offers a sophisticated take on French and Polynesian cuisine, with stunning views of Mount Otemanu. While the prices are high (expect to pay upwards of $100 USD per person), the quality of the food, the impeccable service, and the breathtaking ambiance justify the splurge. The restaurant’s architectural design is so unique that guests can see marine life swimming below while dining.
While fine dining is usually a highlight, visiting a “roulottes” should be on your list. “Roulottes” are mobile food trucks that gather in certain areas, typically in the evening. They offer a wide variety of affordable and delicious food, ranging from pizzas and burgers to crepes and local specialties. It’s a great way to experience the local culture and cuisine without breaking the bank. The roulottes in Vaitape are particularly popular.
Drinks of Paradise: Experiencing Local Beverages
No culinary journey is complete without exploring the local beverages. In Bora Bora, there are plenty of options to quench your thirst, from refreshing fruit juices to potent cocktails.
Hinano beer is the most popular local beer. This light, crisp, and refreshing beer is the perfect accompaniment to a sunny day on the beach or a delicious Polynesian meal. Many bars and restaurants in Bora Bora have some type of happy hour around sunset. The cocktail menus are usually pretty extensive at the resorts, with many fruity options. Some resorts host rum-tasting events that take an educated swig at the Polynesian history. If you don’t drink alcohol, fresh coconut water can be a sweet treat! No matter what, be sure to stay hydrated!
A Word About Expense: Bora Bora on a Budget
Let’s be honest: Bora Bora is not a cheap destination. Dining out, especially at the resorts, can be expensive. However, there are ways to experience the local cuisine without blowing your budget.
As mentioned earlier, the roulottes offer a budget-friendly dining option. Also, consider visiting local markets to buy fresh fruits, vegetables, and snacks. Eating at smaller, family-run restaurants can also be more affordable than dining at the resorts. You can also purchase ingredients from local grocery stores to make your own lunches and simple meals as well.
You should also check if your hotel or resort includes breakfast in your package. This can help you save money. Many hotels have a convenience store that supplies food and drinks as well.
Embrace the Adventure: Stepping Outside Your Comfort Zone
The best way to experience the culinary delights of Bora Bora is to embrace the adventure and step outside your comfort zone. Don’t be afraid to try new foods, ask locals for recommendations, and explore the less-touristy parts of the island.
Talk to your server or hotel staff about their favorite dishes or restaurants. They are often happy to share their local knowledge and point you in the right direction. Be open to trying foods that you’ve never heard of before, and don’t be afraid to ask questions about the ingredients and preparation methods.
Respect the Culture: Mindful Eating in Bora Bora
Food is an integral part of Polynesian culture. As you explore the culinary scene of Bora Bora, be mindful and respectful of local traditions and customs.
When dining at local restaurants, dress respectfully. Be polite and courteous to the staff. Learn a few basic Tahitian phrases, such as “Ia Orana” (hello) and “Mauruuru” (thank you). Showing respect for the local culture will enhance your experience and make you feel more connected to the community.
Be aware and ask about the tipping policies. In most cases, the tip is already included at many restaurants.
FAQ Section:
What is the most popular food in Bora Bora?
Poisson Cru (raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk) is arguably the most popular and iconic food in Bora Bora. It is considered the national dish of French Polynesia, and you’ll find it served everywhere from high-end restaurants to small, local cafes. Its refreshing and flavorful profile makes it a perfect dish for the tropical climate.
Is the water safe to drink in Bora Bora?
It’s generally recommended to drink bottled water in Bora Bora, especially if you have a sensitive stomach. While tap water may be treated, the quality can vary, and bottled water is widely available at hotels, restaurants, and grocery stores.
Do I need to tip in Bora Bora?
Tipping is not customary in Bora Bora. Many restaurants and hotels already include a service charge (usually around 10-15%) in the bill. If you feel that the service was exceptional, you can leave an additional tip, but it is not expected.
What is the local currency in Bora Bora?
The local currency in Bora Bora is the French Pacific Franc (XPF). It’s also sometimes referred to as the CFP Franc. While credit cards are widely accepted at resorts and larger establishments, it’s a good idea to have some cash on hand for smaller businesses, local markets, and tipping (if desired).
What are the common dining hours in Bora Bora?
Dining hours in Bora Bora are generally similar to Western countries. Lunch is typically served from 12:00 PM to 2:00 PM, and dinner is usually served from 7:00 PM to 10:00 PM. However, some restaurants may have slightly different hours, so it’s always best to check in advance, especially if you’re planning to dine outside of these peak hours.
What’s the best way to get around to sample local food in Bora Bora?
The best way to get around and sample the full experience is to have a car rental. Be creative! Venture out to sample as much as you can around the island! You also may have your resort set up different transportation options. You can utilize bikes or set up transportation via tour companies or your hotel!
How do I learn more about the local culture?
Be sure to attend events or Polynesian nights. Also keep an eye out at local restaurants for traditional music and fire dancers. Take a visit to the markets or other cultural sites around Bora Bora.
References List:
- InterContinental Bora Bora & Thalasso Spa by IHG Resort & Thalasso Spa
- Lagoon Restaurant by Jean-Georges at the St. Regis Bora Bora Resort
- Bloody Mary’s Restaurant Bora Bora
- La Matira Beach Restaurant
Ready to embark on your own flavorful adventure in Bora Bora? Don’t just dream about the turquoise waters—taste them, feel them, and immerse yourself in the Polynesian culture. Book that trip! Research restaurants! Chat with the locals! Your taste buds will thank you, and you’ll return home with memories that go far beyond just the picture-perfect scenery. Ia Orana!