Bora Bora isn’t just about overwater bungalows and turquoise lagoons; it’s a culinary adventure waiting to happen, especially if you’re willing to venture beyond the resort buffet. Forget the predictable–prepare your palate for unexpected flavors and unique dining experiences that reveal the true taste of this Tahitian paradise.
The Roulettes: Food Truck Fiesta on Wheels
Imagine vibrant food trucks, affectionately called “roulettes,” lining the main road of Vaitape, Bora Bora’s largest town. This isn’t your average roadside grub. Each roulette offers a distinct culinary personality, from traditional Polynesian dishes to surprisingly authentic Chinese and French-inspired fare. Think of it as a constantly evolving, delicious street food festival. The prices at roulettes are significantly lower than resort restaurants, making it a wallet-friendly way to sample a wide variety of cuisines. You can easily find a main dish for around 1500-3000 XPF (approximately $15-$30 USD), a steal compared to resort prices that can easily triple that amount. The atmosphere is relaxed and convivial, often filled with locals and adventurous tourists alike. It’s a fantastic opportunity to mingle and experience the real Bora Bora.
Practical tip: Most roulettes operate in the evenings, starting around 6 PM and staying open until late. Walk or rent a scooter to explore them along the main road through Vaitape. Don’t be afraid to ask locals for recommendations; they always know the best spots! Look for the trucks with the longest lines – that’s usually a good indicator of delicious food. However, be mindful that some roulettes might only accept cash, so be sure to withdraw enough XPF beforehand.
One of my favorite experiences was at a roulette specializing in poisson cru, a Tahitian staple. The chef prepared it fresh to order, marinating the raw tuna in lime juice and coconut milk right before my eyes. The burst of citrus, the creamy richness, and the perfectly fresh tuna – it was an explosion of flavors I’ll never forget. Compared to having poisson cru at a fancy resort restaurant, this was half the price and twice the authentic experience.
Bloody Mary’s: More Than Just a Tourist Trap
Yes, Bloody Mary’s is famous (or infamous, depending on your perspective) and definitely caters to tourists. But dismissing it as purely a tourist trap would be a mistake. It offers an experience, and if you embrace it, it can be a lot of fun. The restaurant is known for its sand floor, its quirky atmosphere, and its display of fresh seafood and meats from which you choose your dinner. This is where you’ll get to see a variety of local fish, often including parrotfish, mahi-mahi, and tuna, along with steak and chicken options.
The prices are higher than the roulettes, but you are paying for the ambiance and the showmanship of the restaurant. Expect to pay between 5000-9000 XPF (approximately $50-$90 USD) for a main course. While it can be crowded, especially during peak season, the restaurant often has live music and a lively atmosphere. The food is generally good, though some argue it’s not the best on the island. However, the unique selection process, the rustic setting, and the chance to mingle with other travelers make it a worthwhile experience for many.
To get there, Bloody Mary’s offers a free shuttle service from most hotels and resorts on the main island. Just call them to arrange a pick-up. Keep in mind that reservations are highly recommended, especially during the high season. I recommend going early to browse the whole selection of fresh catches! Don’t be shy to ask the staff about each fish and how it’s traditionally cooked.
Snack Mattei: Local Flavors by the Lagoon
Tucked away on the north side of the island, overlooking the lagoon, is Snack Mattei. This unassuming spot is a favorite among locals, and for good reason. It offers unpretentious, delicious Polynesian cuisine at incredibly reasonable prices. If you are looking for a cheap eat in Bora Bora, this is one not to miss.
Here, you can indulge in dishes like firi firi (Tahitian doughnuts), poisson cru (raw fish marinated in coconut milk and lime), and grilled fish served with rice and local vegetables. The food is simple but incredibly flavorful, prepared with fresh ingredients and a lot of love. Expect to pay around 1000-2500 XPF (approximately $10-$25 USD) for a complete meal. The atmosphere is relaxed and casual, with picnic tables overlooking the water. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a leisurely lunch and soak in the stunning views.
Reaching Snack Mattei can be a bit tricky without your own transportation. Renting a scooter or car is the easiest option. Alternatively, you can take a taxi, but make sure to arrange a pick-up time beforehand, as taxis are not always readily available in that area. The directions are pretty straightforward: head north along the main road, and you’ll see signs for Snack Mattei. It’s a little off the beaten path, but entirely worth the effort. One dish that I frequently suggest is the grilled Mahi Mahi. Cooked simply with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon, the natural flavor of the fish shines through.
Restaurant St. James: Elevated Polynesian Cuisine
For a more upscale dining experience that still celebrates local flavors, head to Restaurant St. James. Located over the water with incredible views of Mount Otemanu, this restaurant offers a sophisticated take on Polynesian cuisine. The ambiance is elegant and romantic, making it perfect for a special occasion.
The menu features dishes like grilled lobster with vanilla sauce, seared tuna with coconut risotto, and Tahitian-style marinated lamb. The ingredients are fresh and locally sourced, and the presentation is impeccable. Expect to pay between 7000-15000 XPF (approximately $70-$150 USD) for a main course. While it’s more expensive than other options, the quality of the food, the stunning setting, and the impeccable service make it a worthwhile splurge.
Restaurant St. James offers a complimentary shuttle service from most hotels on the main island. Reservations are essential, as it is a popular spot, especially for sunset dinners. I personally advise that you order the vanilla infused Mahi Mahi. The subtle sweetness of the vanilla enhances the natural flavor of the fish, creating a delightful and unforgettable dish. Also, dress code is smart casual.
Fare Manuia: Hidden Gem with Lagoon Views
Nestled away from the main tourist drag, Fare Manuia offers a truly authentic and intimate dining experience. This family-run restaurant is known for its warm hospitality, its stunning lagoon views, and its delicious homemade Polynesian cuisine. You may struggle to find this, so be prepared to ask quite a few locals.
The menu features dishes like poulet fafa (chicken cooked with taro leaves), taro breadfruit (local breadfruit cooked with taro), and fish cooked in banana leaves. The ingredients are fresh and sourced directly from the family’s garden. Expect to pay around 2000-4000 XPF (approximately $20-$40 USD) for a meal. What makes it truly special is the personal touch and the feeling of being welcomed into their home. It’s the perfect place to experience the true warmth and hospitality of the Polynesian people.
Getting to Fare Manuia requires a bit of effort. It’s best to rent a car or scooter, or take a taxi and arrange for a return trip. Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted with open arms and treated like family. It’s cash only, just an FYI. Try the poulet fafa, as it’s a true local delicacy. The chicken is incredibly tender and flavorful, and the taro leaves add a unique earthy note.
Tupuna Safari Bora Bora: Motu Picnic and Cultural Immersion
For a truly unforgettable dining experience, consider booking a motu picnic tour with Tupuna Safari Bora Bora. This tour combines a cultural immersion with a delicious Polynesian feast on a private motu (small islet). It’s more than just a meal; it’s an adventure.
The tour typically includes a demonstration of traditional Polynesian crafts, a visit to a local pearl farm, and a snorkeling session in the lagoon. The highlight, of course, is the motu picnic. You’ll feast on grilled fish, chicken, and pork, along with local fruits, vegetables, and traditional Polynesian dishes. The food is cooked over an open fire, adding a smoky and delicious flavor. Prices range from 15,000 XPF to 25,000 XPF (approximately $150 to $250 USD) per person, depending on the specific tour and inclusions.
Tupuna Safari Bora Bora provides transportation from your hotel to the departure point. The entire day is filled with unforgettable experiences, culminating in a delicious and authentic Polynesian feast. This is a terrific way to deeply immerse yourself in the culture and appreciate fresh foods prepared using island heritage practices.
Bora Bora Yacht Club: Sunset Cocktails and Casual Bites
While technically a yacht club, this establishment is open to the public and offers a relaxed atmosphere, stunning sunset views, and a menu of casual bites and refreshing cocktails. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring the island.
The menu features items like burgers, salads, sandwiches, and pizzas, along with a selection of seafood dishes. The cocktails are creative and well-made, and the view of the sunset over the lagoon is simply breathtaking. Prices are moderate, with main courses ranging from 3000-6000 XPF (approximately $30-$60 USD) and cocktails around 1500 XPF (approximately $15 USD). Expect to spend a laid back late afternoon here watching the vessels bobbing on the water and savoring something unique, like their poisson cru salad.
The Bora Bora Yacht Club is located near Vaitape and is easily accessible by car, scooter, or taxi. It tends to get very busy for sunset, so be sure to arrive early to snag a good table. I recommend the local Hinano beer with lime while watching the sunset. It’s the quintessential Bora Bora experience.
The InterContinental Bora Bora & Thalasso Spa by IHG Le Moana Resort’s Tama’a Maitai: Polynesian Fire Dancing and a Feast
Even resort restaurants can offer unique experiences. The InterContinental Bora Bora & Thalasso Spa by IHG Le Moana Resort hosts a Polynesian dinner show, called Tama’a Maitai, that is worth attending. It’s a night of fire dancing, traditional music, and a buffet featuring a wide array of Polynesian dishes.
You’ll be treated to dishes like roasted pig, grilled fish, chicken with coconut milk, and various local delicacies. The food is plentiful and flavorful, and the entertainment is captivating. While significantly more expensive than eating at the roulettes, it’s an all-inclusive experience that provides a glimpse into Polynesian culture. Expect to pay between 12,000-18,000 XPF (approximately $120-$180 USD) per person.
The InterContinental provides transportation for guests staying at their resort. If you are not staying there, you may still be able to book a reservation and arrange transportation. Make sure to book in advance, as it is a popular event. This is a great option if you don’t want to venture far from the resort, but still crave cultural immersion.
Many resorts will also offer cooking classes. While these might not be unexpected eats, they certainly equip you to recreate your favorite dishes at home.
Super U: A Supermarket for Local Provisions (and Picnic Supplies!)
While not technically a restaurant, Super U (a supermarket) can be a culinary goldmine, especially for adventurous eaters looking to create their own experiences. This is where locals shop for their groceries, and you can find a wide array of local ingredients, snacks, and drinks at much lower prices than you’ll find at resort shops.
You can stock up on fresh fruits, local cheeses, baguettes, and Hinano beer to create your own picnic lunch to enjoy on the beach. You might also find unique snacks like dried mango, coconut chips, or local candies. The bakery section offers freshly baked bread and pastries, perfect for a quick and affordable breakfast. This is also where you can find essentials like bottled water, sunscreen, and insect repellent.
Super U is located in Vaitape and is easily accessible by car, scooter, or taxi. It’s open seven days a week, making it a convenient stop for stocking up on supplies. Take the time to wander the aisles and discover some new and interesting local products. This is where I stumbled upon Monoï oil, a fragrant oil infused with coconut and Tiare flowers, traditionally used for skincare. While not edible, it certainly added to my sensory experience of the island!
Exploring the Markets: Fresh Produce and Handcrafted Delights
Immerse yourself in the local culture by visiting the markets in Vaitape. Here, you can find fresh produce, handcrafted goods, and a glimpse into the daily life of the Bora Boran people. It’s a sensory experience that will awaken your appetite and your appreciation for local traditions.
The market often features vendors selling fresh fruits and vegetables, locally caught fish, and handcrafted souvenirs. It’s a great place to sample local delicacies, such as fresh coconut water, grilled bananas, or poe, a traditional Tahitian dessert made from taro, pumpkin, or banana. Prices are generally reasonable, and bargaining is often expected. It is also a brilliant chance to try and interact with the local people. However, they may not be willing to communicate in English.
The Vaitape market is usually held in the mornings, so it’s best to visit early to get the freshest produce and avoid the crowds. It’s easily accessible by foot, car, or scooter. Take your time to explore the stalls, interact with the vendors, and discover the unique flavors of Bora Bora.
Practical Tips for Adventurous Eating in Bora Bora
- Learn a few basic French phrases: While many people in tourist areas speak English, knowing a few basic French phrases can go a long way in making connections with locals and enhancing your dining experiences. “Bonjour” (hello), “Merci” (thank you), and “S’il vous plaît” (please) are good starting points.
- Embrace the local customs: Polynesians are known for their warm hospitality and laid-back attitude. Be respectful of their customs and traditions, and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Remember that you are a guest in their home. Be mindful of church services and refrain from being loud or disruptive on Sundays. Also, dress modestly when visiting local villages or attending cultural events.
- Be mindful of the sun and heat: Bora Bora is a tropical paradise, but the sun can be intense. Drink plenty of water, wear sunscreen, and seek shade during the hottest parts of the day. Also, be aware that the humidity can be high, so dress accordingly.
- Rent a scooter: Renting a scooter is a fantastic way to explore the island at your own pace and discover hidden gems. Just be sure to wear a helmet and drive safely.
- Bring some extra cash: While many establishments accept credit cards, some smaller restaurants and shops may only accept cash. It’s always a good idea to have some XPF (the local currency) on hand.
- Don’t be afraid to venture off the beaten path: Some of the best dining experiences in Bora Bora are found in small, family-run restaurants that are off the beaten path. Don’t be afraid to explore and discover hidden gems.
Island Night Extravaganza at various Resorts
Many of the larger resorts throughout Bora Bora put on an “Island Night” once or twice a week. These can range from formal buffets with Polynesian dance shows to casual affairs with live music and a la carte menus. While the quality and authenticity can vary quite a bit, many are worth checking out, especially if you’re staying at the resort. This is probably going to be your most expensive and tourist-focused eating experience, but you can’t deny the festive environment it provides! Ask your hotel concierge for what each nearby location offers and read reviews before going.
FAQ Section
Q: Is it safe to eat at the roulettes?
A: Yes, generally it is safe to eat at the roulettes. They are licensed and inspected by the local authorities. However, as with any street food, it’s important to observe basic hygiene practices. Look for trucks that are clean and well-maintained. Choose food that is freshly cooked and served hot. And if in doubt, ask the locals for their recommendations.
Q: How much does it cost to eat in Bora Bora?
A: Dining costs in Bora Bora can vary widely depending on where you eat. Resort restaurants tend to be the most expensive, with main courses ranging from $50-$150 USD. Roulettes offer a more affordable option, with main courses costing around $15-$30 USD. Local restaurants and cafes typically fall somewhere in between, with main courses ranging from $20-$50 USD.
Q: What are some must-try dishes in Bora Bora?
A: Some must-try dishes in Bora Bora include poisson cru (raw fish marinated in coconut milk and lime), poulet fafa (chicken cooked with taro leaves), firi firi (Tahitian doughnuts), and grilled fish with local vegetables.
Q: Do I need to make reservations at restaurants in Bora Bora?
A: It’s always a good idea to make reservations, especially during peak season. Popular restaurants, such as Restaurant St. James and Bloody Mary’s, can fill up quickly. Making a reservation ensures that you’ll have a table and avoid disappointment.
Q: Is tipping customary in Bora Bora?
A: Tipping is not customary in Bora Bora, as service charges are usually included in the bill. However, if you feel that the service was exceptional, you can leave a small tip as a gesture of appreciation. This is at your discretion and by no means a requirement.
Q: What are the best ways to get around Bora Bora?
A: The best way to get around Bora Bora depends on your budget and preferences. Taxis are readily available, but they can be expensive. Renting a car or scooter offers more flexibility and can be a more cost-effective option. Alternatively, you can take the public bus, which is a budget-friendly way to explore the island. Many hotels also offer shuttle services to popular attractions.
Q: Can I drink the tap water in Bora Bora?
A: While the tap water in Bora Bora is generally considered safe to drink, it’s recommended to drink bottled water to avoid any potential stomach upset. Bottled water is readily available at supermarkets and convenience stores.
Q: Is there a dress code for restaurants in Bora Bora?
A: The dress code is generally casual in Bora Bora. However, some upscale restaurants may require smart casual attire. It’s best to check with the restaurant beforehand to be sure.
References
Lonely Planet Bora Bora & Tahiti Guidebook
Fodor’s Essential France
Conde Nast Traveler – Bora Bora Travel Guide
Ready to ditch the predictable and dive into the real flavors of Bora Bora? Don’t let your taste buds get stuck in a resort rut! Rent a scooter, grab your sense of adventure, and explore the island’s hidden culinary treasures. You might just discover your new favorite dish – and a whole new side to this Polynesian paradise. What are you waiting for? Your Bora Bora food adventure awaits!
Explore Places to Stay in Bora Bora
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