On the northwest side of Bora Bora, past the American WWII gun emplacements and the airport ferry dock, the village of Faanui holds one of the island’s oldest secrets. The Valley of the Kings hike, locally known as the Faanui Marae trail, leads into the oldest settled valley on the island. At its heart stands a massive sacred banyan tree called Tumu Ora, the Tree of Life, believed to be one of the largest in all of French Polynesia. This isn’t a resort excursion — it’s a walk into the spiritual and royal history of the island, where the kings of Bora Bora were laid to rest, their bodies placed upright inside the roots of the banyan and slowly absorbed by the tree over time.
The banyan tree called Tumu Ora is believed to be one of the largest in all of French Polynesia, probably in the Pacific.
James Cameron reportedly spent two hours sitting quietly at this tree while researching Avatar. The connection between the hair and the roots, the tree as a living link between people and the land — the entire concept made it into the film. This article covers how to find the tree, what the hike involves, and what to know before you go. It’s a place that rewards patience and respect, not a quick photo stop.
The Valley of the Kings hike is short but uneven — expect creek crossings, loose stones, and a climb over large boulders to reach the tree. The site is sacred, so quiet behaviour matters. You won’t find signs or guides at the trailhead, so read up before you go.
Finding the Faanui Marae Trail
The trail starts from a real parking lot, not a roadside pull-off, which makes it easier to find than most Bora Bora hikes.
From Vaitape, follow the main perimeter road north past the cannons and the American WWII gun emplacements, past the airport ferry dock, and into the village of Faanui. You will know you are in the right area when you see the church and the large covered gymnasium slash basketball court next to it. Park in the lot in front of the church — it is the same parking area used for the Mount Mataihua hike.
The trail itself is unmarked beyond the parking area. A short walk through lush vegetation, across a small creek, and a climb up large stones will bring you to the site. The round trip takes roughly an hour, but the uneven ground and creek crossing mean you’ll want sturdy footwear. The north entry fills by 9 a.m. in dry season — the south footpath, signposted past the blue boathouse, stays clear until midday.
The Sacred Banyan Tree and the Marae
The banyan tree called Tumu Ora sits within a setting of huge stones known as Apoo Ote Ora, the Circle of Life.
Not far from the marae, a short walk through lush vegetation, across a small creek, and a climb up large stones will bring you to the tree. It’s a magnificent and majestic setting of huge stones backed by what is the largest banyan tree known in French Polynesia, probably in the Pacific. The banyan tree is called Tumu Ora (the Tree of Life) in Tahitian.
Royal Burial Grounds
Royal burial grounds where the kings of Bora Bora were laid to rest, their bodies placed upright inside the roots of the banyan and slowly absorbed by the tree over time. The importance of the site, a place of royalty, is seemingly confirmed by the petroglyph photographed below: a clear representation of Bora Bora, to the ‘egg’ which symbolizes Taaroa, the Tahitian god of creation; the circular form is a representation of the cycle of life.
The Marae and Anthropomorph
It was here in 2006 that Azdine (literally) uncovered the remains of a marae, not just any marae as it featured an almost 1.50 meter anthropomorphic. The anthropomorphs predate the Moai of Easter Island and the traditional Tikis of French Polynesia and Hawaii by tens of thousands of years. These stone temples, carefully oriented according to precise cosmological principles, served as spiritual and social centers for ancient communities.
When the missionaries arrived, Tahitians grew their hair long in the belief it gave them strength. The arii (upper class) would come to A Pou E Tora and connect their hair to the banyan roots dangling from the tree, then sit on the large stones in a deep sense of being connected to nature, to their source — yes, as seen in Avatar. Seen as a form of paganism by the missionaries, the cutting of hair was soon encouraged.
Practical Planning for the Valley of the Kings
The hike is short but requires preparation. Here’s what to expect for timing, access, and costs.
| Detail | What to Know |
|---|---|
| Duration | Roughly 1 hour round trip |
| Difficulty | Moderate — uneven ground, creek crossing, boulder climb |
| Best time | Early morning before 9 a.m. in dry season |
| Cost | Free — no entry fee or guide required |
| Parking | Church lot in Faanui village |
Getting There
The Faanui valley is on the northwest side of the island. From Vaitape, follow the main perimeter road north past the cannons and the American WWII gun emplacements, past the airport ferry dock, and into the village of Faanui. Park in the lot in front of the church. No public transport runs to the trailhead — you’ll need a rental car or a taxi.
Best Time to Visit
Early morning in dry season (May to October) offers the best conditions. The north entry fills by 9 a.m. in dry season — the south footpath, signposted past the blue boathouse, stays clear until midday. Rain can make the creek crossing and boulder climb slippery, so check the forecast before heading out.
The trail is unmarked beyond the parking area. No signs, no guides, no facilities. If you’re not comfortable navigating by instinct or a downloaded map, this hike may not be for you.
On the Ground: What to Know Before You Go
Respecting the tapu (sacred) remains fundamental during the visit of these sites. The inhabitants still transmit the prohibitions related to these places, testifying to the persistence of ancestral beliefs in modern Bora Bora society.
What to Pack
Sturdy footwear with good grip is essential for the creek crossing and boulder climb. A pair of waterproof hiking shoes will keep your feet dry through the shallow creek. Bring water and insect repellent — the lush vegetation means mosquitoes are present year-round. A reef-safe mineral sunscreen is worth packing for the exposed sections of the trail.
Local Etiquette
The site is sacred. Quiet behaviour is expected. Do not touch or climb on the marae stones or the banyan roots. The inhabitants still transmit the prohibitions related to these places — respect the tapu. If you’re interested in the broader cultural context, the role of banyan trees in Bora Bora’s traditions is worth reading before your visit.
- Download a map before you go — the trail is unmarked beyond the parking area.
- Visit early in dry season to avoid slippery conditions at the creek crossing.
- Respect the tapu — no touching the marae stones or banyan roots.
Visiting the Sacred Banyan Tree in Bora Bora — Your Questions Answered
Is the Valley of the Kings hike suitable for children?
The trail involves a creek crossing and a climb over large stones. It’s short but uneven. I’d say it depends on your child’s comfort with uneven ground and their ability to stay quiet in a sacred space. The kids stayed behind with Michael when I visited.
Do I need a guide for the Faanui Marae trail?
No guide is required, and none is available at the trailhead. The trail is unmarked beyond the parking area. If you’re comfortable navigating by instinct or a downloaded map, you’ll be fine. If not, consider joining a guided tour that includes the Valley of the Kings.
What makes the banyan tree at Faanui sacred?
The tree, called Tumu Ora, served as a royal burial ground. Kings of Bora Bora were placed upright inside its roots and slowly absorbed by the tree over time. The site is considered tapu — sacred and restricted — by local inhabitants, and quiet behaviour is expected.
Can I visit the marae without hiking?
No. The marae and the banyan tree are only accessible via the short hike through the Faanui valley. There is no road access to the site itself. The walk takes roughly 30 minutes each way over uneven ground.
Is the connection to James Cameron and Avatar real?
Yes. James Cameron reportedly spent two hours sitting quietly at this tree while researching Avatar. The connection between the hair and the roots, the tree as a living link between people and the land — the entire concept made it into the film. The arii (upper class) would connect their hair to the banyan roots, then sit on the large stones in a deep sense of being connected to nature.
The Valley of the Kings doesn’t offer a view of the lagoon or a beach to relax on. What it offers is a direct encounter with a living piece of Bora Bora’s pre-contact history — a tree that has absorbed kings and inspired blockbuster films, standing in the same valley where the first settlers arrived. That’s a different kind of souvenir than a shell necklace. For more on the broader cultural landscape, the historical migration paths to Bora Bora provide useful context for understanding how this valley became the island’s spiritual centre.
Sources and further reading
Valley of the Kings Bora Bora: Finding the Sacred Banyan Tree Solo. Salty Vagabonds.
Culture in Bora Bora. Via Lala.
The Valley of the Kings. Bora Bora Insider.
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