Unwind In The Serenity Of Big Whale Cay

From a distance, Big Whale Cay looks like a low green line on the horizon, its 4,000-foot airstrip the only obvious landmark as you cross the Berry Islands. Up closer, the 565-acre private island reveals something rarer than a runway: a silence that feels almost deliberate. The estate buildings—The Great House, the Guest Cottage, the Music Room—date from the 1930s through the 1970s, built by English writer Marion Carstairs, who valued seclusion above everything else. That same quiet defines the place today, even if you’re only passing by on the water.

If you’re planning a sailing itinerary through the Berry Islands, Big Whale Cay lies along the natural cruising route between Great Harbour Cay to the north and Chub Cay to the south. It’s roughly thirty miles north of Nassau and close enough to Florida for a longer weekend passage. The island itself isn’t a destination you can book, but the waters around it — and the nearby islands you can visit — make this stretch of the Berry chain worth your time.

Below I’ve broken down what makes Big Whale Cay worth knowing about — its location, history, natural setting, and how it fits into a Berry Islands cruising route. Each section draws directly from the available research, with nothing embellished.

Strategic Location: Where the Banks Meet the Deep

Big Whale Cay’s position is its defining feature. The island sits at 25.4500°, -77.7900°, precisely on the line where the shallow Great Bahama Bank drops into the Tongue of the Ocean — a mile-deep trench that runs along the western edge of the Berry Islands. That means the western shoreline faces open deep water, giving larger vessels direct access, while the eastern side fronts the shallower bank waters, offering more protected conditions in certain winds.

For cruisers, this dual exposure matters. If you’re coming south from Great Harbour Cay, you’ll pass within sight of the island’s airstrip — the longest private runway in the Berry Islands — and can use it as a visual marker before turning toward Chub Cay. The passage between popular anchorages around Hoffman’s Cay and the marina at Chub Cay runs right past Big Whale Cay’s eastern bank side.

Chub Cay Marina, roughly 6.5 nautical miles to the west, is the nearest full-service facility. That’s where you’ll find fuel, customs clearance, restaurants, and basic supplies. Great Harbour Cay Marina to the north offers similar services. Both are reliable stopovers whether you’re heading toward Nassau or pushing further into the Exumas.

Historic Estate: Marion Carstairs’ Island Retreat

Big Whale Cay’s built history starts in the 1930s, when wealthy adventurers were drawn to the Berry Islands for the fishing and the seclusion. The estate’s most notable figure is Marion Carstairs, an English writer who built the core of what stands today — The Great House, the Guest Cottage, and the Music Room — between the 1930s and 1970s. The structures reflect several eras of development, with some support buildings dating from the later period.

The 4,000-foot paved airstrip came after the main residences and remains serviceable for private aircraft today. It’s the longest private runway in the Berry Islands, which hints at the kind of access the property was designed for — fly-in, boat-in, and otherwise invisible to the general public.

The property has been listed for sale at various points, most recently at $19,995,000. The listing mentions a 2.5-mile natural waterway on the northern side — about 25 feet wide and 1.5 to 4 feet deep — that could be dredged to create a marina. For now, though, the island remains in private hands, with no public access.

Natural Features: Rocky Shorelines, Pocket Beaches, and Wetlands

The 565 acres cover a range of Bahamian landscapes. Rocky shorelines alternate with small pocket beaches, while the interior holds scrubland and wetlands. The western side, facing the Tongue of the Ocean, has deeper water right up to the shore, while the eastern bank side is shallower and more protected.

For boaters, the practical implication is straightforward: the western side works for larger vessels making a brief pass or fishing stop; the eastern side offers better anchorage in settled weather, though you’ll need to watch your draft. The bank waters around the island are home to bonefish and permit, while the deep water on the west side holds blue marlin, wahoo, and tuna.

Cruising Context: Passing By vs. Stopping In

For most cruisers, Big Whale Cay is a navigational reference rather than a stop. The island lies between popular anchorages around Hoffman’s Cay and the marina facilities at Chub Cay, so you’ll pass it naturally if you’re transiting the Berry Islands. Those making the passage south toward Nassau or the Exumas will see the island’s distinctive airstrip from a distance.

That said, the area around Big Whale Cay is worth slowing down for. The fishing is excellent, the views of the old estate from the water are striking, and the sense of isolation — even from a boat deck — is hard to match. Just don’t plan on going ashore. Whale Cay is privately owned, and permission from the owners is required for any visit.

If you’re looking for a longer Berry Islands itinerary, the area around Big Whale Cay fits naturally into a week-long loop. You can start at Chub Cay for fuel and customs, head north past Whale Cay to Great Harbour Cay, then work your way back through the anchorages around Hoffman’s Cay and the smaller cays. The 7-day Berry Islands sailing itinerary from Sail Abacos covers this route well.

Nearby Facilities: Chub Cay and Great Harbour Cay

Chub Cay, 6.5 nautical miles west of Big Whale Cay, is the main port of entry for this part of the Berry Islands. The marina offers fuel, customs clearance, restaurants, and basic supplies. It’s a reliable stop for cruisers coming from or heading to Nassau.

Great Harbour Cay to the north provides similar services, plus a more developed settlement with additional dining options and a small grocery. Both marinas can handle vessels up to around 50 feet, and both are popular stops for boats transiting the Berry chain.

Before You Go — Berry Islands Cruising

Can I visit Big Whale Cay?

No. The island is privately owned and not open to the public without permission from the owners. You can view it from the water, but landing is not allowed.

Where do I clear customs for the Berry Islands?

Chub Cay Marina, about 6.5 nautical miles west of Big Whale Cay, is the primary port of entry. It has customs facilities, fuel, and supplies.

Is the fishing around Whale Cay worth stopping for?

Yes. The deep water on the western side holds blue marlin, wahoo, and tuna. The bank side offers bonefish and permit. Bring appropriate gear and watch your drift near the drop-off.

What’s the nearest place to anchor overnight?

Popular anchorages near Hoffman’s Cay and the lee side of Chub Cay offer decent holding in settled weather. The eastern bank side of Whale Cay itself can work if conditions are calm, but it’s exposed to certain wind directions.

Is there a risk of being asked to leave if I anchor too close?

Anchoring in the waters around Big Whale Cay is generally fine, but avoid approaching the shoreline or attempting to land. The island’s owners and any caretakers on site are within their rights to enforce the private property boundary.

Closing

Big Whale Cay doesn’t need to be a destination you set foot on to leave an impression. Its real value is as a landmark — a quiet, historic presence on the edge of the Tongue of the Ocean that marks the transition between the shallow banks and the deep water beyond. For cruisers who appreciate the space between stops, that’s exactly the kind of serenity worth unwinding into. If you’re building a Berry Islands itinerary, you might also enjoy Long Island’s untouched beauty for a completely different pace of Bahamian escape.

References

Sail Abacos. “Whale Cay, Berry Islands.” Sail Abacos, 2024. ↗

The Bahamas MLS. “Whale Cay, Berry Islands.” The Bahamas MLS, 2024. ↗

For more Bahamas cruising ideas, check out our guides on a week in Nassau, Junkanoo Beach celebrations, and unique animal encounters in the Bahamas. Each one offers a different angle on island-hopping through this incredible region.