Big Major Cay is home to the famous swimming pigs of The Bahamas, who wade through crystalline waters and lounge on white sands, making this one of the country’s most visited attractions. Legend has it that pirates let pigs colonize the island to create their own personal food source, but now their Instagrammability draws a steady stream of day-trippers from Nassau. Reaching Big Major Cay typically takes about two to three hours by high-speed boat from Nassau or around 90 minutes from Great Exuma.
Snorkeling here is like swimming in a naturally-formed aquarium, where you’ll see the black and white stripes of banded butterfly fish, silver bar jacks, yellowtail snappers, multi-colored parrotfish, and yellow-tinted, striped sergeant majors.
This guide covers the essential Exumas — from swimming with pigs at Big Major Cay and nurse sharks at Compass Cay to snorkeling the James Bond-filmed Thunderball Grotto. You’ll get the practical details on how to reach these remote cays, where to stay, and what to pack so you can plan a trip that actually works on the ground.
The Exumas are incredible, but they’re not a spontaneous day trip from Nassau. You need a solid plan for boat transport, and the pigs get swarmed by midday. Go early, bring cash for park fees, and expect crowds at the most famous spots — the quieter cays are where the real magic is.
Orienting yourself in the Exumas
The Exumas stretch for over 100 miles, a chain of 365 cays and islands that start roughly 35 miles southeast of Nassau.
Most visitors base themselves on Great Exuma (where the airport, George Town, and most hotels are) or fly directly into Staniel Cay, which has its own airport (TYM) with daily direct service from Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport (FXE) via Makers Air. From Great Exuma, the famous swimming pigs at Big Major Cay are about a 90-minute boat ride north. From Staniel Cay, you’re only 15 minutes away.
The tradeoff is clear: Great Exuma has more accommodation and dining options, but you’ll spend more time on the water each day. Staniel Cay puts you closer to the action but has limited lodging and supplies. I spent a week based on Great Exuma with Michael and the kids, and while the daily boat rides felt long, having a proper grocery store and restaurant variety made evenings much easier with children who get hungry at unpredictable hours.
First-time visitors wanting convenience
Boaters and private island seekers
Snorkelers and wildlife enthusiasts
Where to go: the essential Exumas experience
Big Major Cay — swimming with the pigs
The pigs at Big Major Cay are the main draw, and they deliver on the spectacle. They swim out to meet boats as they approach, snorting and paddling in water so clear you can see their hooves working beneath the surface. The island itself is uninhabited, just white sand and scrub brush, but the pigs have made it their own. Visitors should keep in mind that due to the island’s remote location, reaching Big Major Cay typically takes about two to three hours by high-speed boat from Nassau or around 90 minutes from Great Exuma.
The pigs are fed by tour operators, so they’re conditioned to approach boats. That means you’ll likely have company — sometimes dozens of people wading in the same stretch of water. Go early, ideally before 10 a.m., to avoid the worst of the crowds. The pigs are generally docile, but they can get pushy around food. Keep small children close; Ethan was a bit startled when a large sow nudged his leg looking for a treat.
Compass Cay — nurse sharks in tide pools
Just a short boat ride from Big Major Cay, Compass Cay offers a completely different animal encounter. Friendly nurse sharks stalk tropical fish near natural tide pools, and visitors can wade right in with them. These sharks are accustomed to people and generally harmless, but they’re still wild animals — they can reach up to 14 feet long, and they will bump into your legs as they cruise past.
The staff at Compass Cay charge a small entry fee (around $10 per person, cash only) and provide a briefing on how to interact with the sharks. The water is shallow and clear, making it easy to see the sharks’ every movement. It’s a genuinely thrilling experience, and far less crowded than the pig beach. Michael, who is usually skeptical of animal attractions, admitted it was the highlight of his trip.
Bring cash for entry fees at Compass Cay and other private cays — there are no ATMs on the smaller islands, and card readers are unreliable. The $10 fee at Compass Cay is well worth it for the uncrowded shark experience.
Thunderball Grotto — snorkeling in a James Bond cave
Low tides near Staniel Cay reveal an otherwise hidden entrance to the “almost cathedral-like interior” of a secretive underwater cave known as Thunderball Grotto. The grotto is so striking that it has appeared in not one but two different James Bond movies: “Thunderball” and “Never Say Never Again.” Snorkeling here is like swimming in a naturally-formed aquarium, where you’ll see the black and white stripes of banded butterfly fish, silver bar jacks, yellowtail snappers, multi-colored parrotfish, and yellow-tinted, striped sergeant majors.
Timing is everything. You need to visit at low tide to access the main entrance, which is partially submerged. At high tide, the cave fills completely and you can only enter by diving under the rock lip. The interior is dark and echoey, with shafts of sunlight piercing through holes in the ceiling. A good snorkel set with a clear mask makes a real difference here — the fish are close, and you want to see every detail.
Practical planning for your Exumas trip
Getting to the Exumas and moving between the cays requires more planning than a typical beach vacation. Here’s what you need to know.
| Route | Travel time | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Nassau to Big Major Cay (by boat) | 2–3 hours | Day trips from Nassau |
| Great Exuma to Big Major Cay (by boat) | ~90 minutes | Those based on Great Exuma |
| Staniel Cay to Big Major Cay (by boat) | ~15 minutes | Those staying on Staniel Cay |
| Fort Lauderdale to Staniel Cay (by air) | ~1.5 hours | Direct access to the northern cays |
Getting there: by air and sea
Most international visitors fly into Nassau (NAS) or George Town on Great Exuma (GGT). From Nassau, you can book a day tour that includes boat transport to the cays, but expect a very long day — you’ll be on the water for four to six hours round trip. From Great Exuma, private boat charters and group tours are widely available. If you’re staying on Staniel Cay, Makers Air offers daily direct service from Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport (FXE), which cuts travel time significantly.
Best time to visit
The dry season from December to April offers the calmest seas and most reliable weather, but it’s also peak tourist season with higher prices and more crowds. The shoulder months of November and May can be excellent — fewer boats at the pig beach and still good conditions. Hurricane season runs June through November, with the highest risk from August to October. If you’re traveling then, book refundable accommodations and watch the forecast closely.
The pig beach at Big Major Cay is busiest between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m., when multiple tour boats from Nassau and Great Exuma converge. If you arrive after 10 a.m., expect 30–50 people in the water with the pigs. The pigs can become stressed and less interactive by afternoon.
Costs and local friction
The Exumas are expensive. A day boat charter from Great Exuma runs $500–$800 for a private group, and even group tours cost $150–$250 per person. Food and supplies are marked up significantly on the smaller cays — a gallon of milk can cost $10. Bring as much as you can from Nassau or the mainland. Cash is king on the smaller islands; many places don’t accept cards, and ATMs are scarce outside of George Town.
On the ground: what to know before you go
Packing for the water
You’ll spend most of your time on or in the water, so pack accordingly. A reef-safe mineral sunscreen is essential — the Bahamas has banned sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, which damage coral reefs. A waterproof dry bag protects your phone, wallet, and camera from salt spray and accidental dunks. For snorkeling, a full-face snorkel mask makes it easier for kids to breathe naturally while watching fish at Thunderball Grotto.
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Lily and Ethan each used a kids snorkel set with a dry-top snorkel, which prevented water from getting in when waves splashed over them. It made a noticeable difference in how long they stayed in the water at Compass Cay. A waterproof phone pouch is useful for taking photos of the pigs without risking your phone — just test the seal before you go in.
Where to eat and stay
Staniel Cay Yacht Club has become one of the most beloved Bahamian destinations for boaters, who dock at its marina before cosying into one of its collection of cottages and bungalows. The restaurant serves solid Bahamian fare — conch fritters, cracked conch, and cold Kalik beer — and the dock is a social hub where you’ll meet other travelers. For a more upscale stay, Fowl Cay Resort stands out as the pioneer of the private island experience in the region. Each lodging also comes with its own powerboat, perfect for exploring nearby islets and hopping over to the marinas at nearby cays.
On Great Exuma, Grand Isle Resort & Residences marries a private island feel with a more convenient location and resort-level amenities. For a no-fuss option, Paradise Bay is one of a few decidedly more chill places to stay on the island, but its long stretch of beach and clear waters make this spot feel as charming as any other. For food, born and raised in the Exumas and now the director of the Exuma Chamber of Commerce, Emmett Saunders suggests dining at local favorite Shirley’s at the Fish Fry for a masterclass in island cuisine. Saunders also recommends making a reservation at Blu on the Water, one of Great Exuma’s few fine-dining spots, for sweeping views over the water.
- Book boat transport in advance — private charters fill up weeks ahead during peak season, and last-minute options are limited and expensive.
- Bring cash in small denominations for entry fees, tips, and small purchases on the cays — cards are rarely accepted outside of resorts and George Town.
- Pack reef-safe sunscreen and a dry bag as non-negotiable items — the sun is intense, and salt spray will ruin electronics without protection.
Your Exumas questions, answered
Can you swim with the pigs without a tour?
Yes, if you have your own boat or charter a private one. Big Major Cay is uninhabited and public, so you can anchor and swim with the pigs independently. Just be aware that tour boats arrive in waves, so you’ll still encounter crowds unless you arrive very early or late in the day.
Are the nurse sharks at Compass Cay dangerous?
Nurse sharks are generally docile and not aggressive toward humans, but they are wild animals with powerful jaws. The sharks at Compass Cay are accustomed to people and are fed by staff, which keeps them nearby. Keep your hands to yourself and avoid sudden movements — the risk is low, but it’s not zero.
What’s the best time of day to visit Thunderball Grotto?
Low tide is ideal because the main entrance is exposed and you can wade in rather than dive. Check tide tables for Staniel Cay before you go. Midday sun also helps — light streams through the ceiling holes and illuminates the fish and coral inside the cave.
Is the Exumas trip worth it for families with young children?
It depends on your kids’ tolerance for boat rides. The journey from Great Exuma to the northern cays is 90 minutes each way in an open boat, which can be rough in choppy seas. The swimming pigs and nurse sharks are huge hits with children, but the long days on the water can exhaust them. Plan for shorter days and bring plenty of snacks and entertainment.
What’s the biggest downside of visiting the Exumas?
The cost and logistics. Everything is expensive — boat charters, food, accommodation — and getting around requires advance planning. The famous spots are crowded, and the weather can disrupt boat schedules. If you’re looking for a cheap, easy beach vacation, the Exumas are not it. But if you’re willing to invest time and money, the experiences are genuinely unlike anywhere else.
One last thing before you go
The Exumas reward the prepared traveler. The pigs will swim out to meet you, the sharks will glide past your legs, and the grotto will feel like a secret world beneath the sea — but only if you’ve sorted the boat, the timing, and the cash. For a deeper dive into the region’s unique animal encounters, read more about swimming with pigs and beyond.
Sources and further reading
Collection of 365 islands: Bahamas swimming pigs and more. AOL, 2025.
Collection of 365 islands: Bahamas swimming pigs and more. AOL UK, 2025.
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