The Exuma Cays run 120 miles southeast of Nassau, a chain of 365 islands that most people see one at a time on day trips. A sailing charter changes that — you wake up in a new anchorage each morning, and the only schedule worth keeping is the tide table for Thunderball Grotto. This article maps a seven-day route through the Exuma Cays aboard a crewed sailing yacht, covering the permits, passage logistics, and where you can skip or linger if the wind changes direction.
The Exuma Cays string 365 islands across roughly 120 miles of the clearest water in the Bahamas.
A sailing charter week gives you private access to marine reserves and remote beaches that day-trip boats cannot reach, but the trip requires advance permit filing, a Nassau departure point, and realistic expectations about passage times between cays that are farther apart than they look on a chart.
| Day | Where | What | Time Needed | Key Tip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Nassau → Allan’s Cay | Iguanas, first anchorage | 4–5 hrs passage + afternoon | Bring lettuce for the iguanas from a Nassau grocery |
| 2 | Allan’s Cay → Norman’s Cay | Plane wreck, Twinkie Beach | Full day | Snorkel the DC-3 at slack tide for best visibility |
| 3 | Norman’s Cay → Compass Cay | Nurse sharks, Rachel’s Bubble Bath | Full day | Arrive before 2pm for dock availability |
| 4 | Compass Cay → Big Major Cay / Staniel Cay | Swimming pigs, Thunderball Grotto | Full day | Grotto accessible ~30–45 min after low tide |
| 5 | Staniel Cay → Warderick Wells | Park HQ, Boo Boo Hill | 3–4 hrs passage + afternoon | Hike Boo Boo Hill before sunset for the widest view |
| 6 | Warderick Wells → Shroud Cay | Mangrove creeks, Washing Machine | Full day | Run the Washing Machine on a rising tide |
| 7 | Shroud Cay → Rose Island → Nassau | Final passage, lunch at Sandy Toes | 6–7 hrs total | Pre-book a customs slot at Nassau for re-entry |
The route follows the west coast of the Exuma Cays, keeping the Great Bahama Bank’s shallow water under the keel for most of the week. A sailing catamaran drawing around four feet can tuck into anchorages that deeper-draft monohulls have to skip, which matters more here than in the British Virgin Islands — the banks average only about 10–15 feet deep.
Day 1: Nassau to Allan’s Cay — Iguanas and the First Night at Anchor
Clearing customs and immigration at Lynden Pindling International Airport in Nassau is the only bureaucratic hurdle before the wind takes over. Once the yacht is provisioned, the 34-nautical-mile passage southeast to Allan’s Cay takes most of the afternoon under sail at 8–10 knots. Allan’s Cay is the northernmost of the Exuma chain worth stopping at, and its claim to fame is the endangered Northern Bahamian rock iguana — locals call them Bahamian dragons — that shuffle out of the scrub when they hear a dinghy approach.
Board at Palm Cay Marina by 10am. The taxi ride from LPIA runs about 25 minutes. Clear customs in Nassau before departing — all foreign-flagged vessels need a cruising permit filed through the Bahamas Customs digital portal before arrival.
Drop anchor off the northwest side of the cay. Bring lettuce from the Nassau grocery — there is no food for sale on the island and the iguanas will eat fruit and vegetables out of your hand. The beach is undeveloped, so pack everything you need for the afternoon ashore.
Settle in for the first night on the hook. The anchorage is protected from easterly trades, but a compact drone with a 4K camera is worth launching from the deck at golden hour — the water clarity over the white-sand bank turns the anchorage into a postcard that no phone shot quite captures.
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If you are short on time, skip the iguana beach and push straight to Norman’s Cay on Day 1 — the extra two hours of daylight buys you a full morning at the plane wreck the next day.
Day 2: Allan’s Cay to Norman’s Cay — A Plane Wreck in Crystal Water
The 17-nautical-mile run south to Norman’s Cay is one of the shortest passages of the week, so the morning is yours to linger over coffee on the trampoline. Norman’s Cay carries a strange history — it served as a refueling stop for Medellín cartel drug flights in the 1970s and 1980s, and the rusted remains of one of those planes, a DC-3, sit in shallow water just off the west side of the island.
The DC-3 wreck lies in 10–15 feet of water and is visible from the surface on a calm day. Snorkel at slack tide when the current drops to zero — the wreck is surrounded by sand and small coral heads, and the fish hold tight to the fuselage for cover. Bring a waterproof action camera with 8K video to capture the clarity without needing a dive light.
Twinkie Beach sits on the eastern side of Norman’s Cay and earns its name from the white-sand strip that glows against the turquoise water. The beach is public and usually quiet on weekdays. Anchor off the beach and dinghy in — the shoreline drops off gradually, so wading ashore is easy even for weaker swimmers.
The anchorage off Norman’s Cay can get rolly if the wind swings northeast, so check the forecast before committing to a second night. MacDuff’s restaurant on the island serves lunch and dinner, but reservations are recommended during high season (December through April).
Day 3: Norman’s Cay to Compass Cay — Nurse Sharks and a Natural Jacuzzi
Compass Cay sits roughly 15 nautical miles south of Norman’s Cay, just inside the boundary of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. The marina here is one of the few full-service docks along the route, with fuel, water, ice, and a small grocery. More importantly, the resident nurse sharks glide around the dock pilings and allow wading among them — no cage, no barrier, just shallow water and habituated sharks.
The marina has limited dock space and fills up quickly in season. Call ahead on VHF channel 16 to confirm availability. Once tied up, walk to the dock where the nurse sharks congregate — the staff sell small buckets of fish, but wading without food is just as rewarding and keeps the sharks from associating hands with feeding.
A short dinghy ride from the marina leads to a natural rock formation where surge from the incoming tide creates a churning pool of foam — the Bubble Bath. The nearby Rocky Dundas Grotto is a sea cave with a hole in the ceiling that shafts light onto an underwater sand floor. Both are accessible only by dinghy or tender.
The marina at Compass Cay charges a docking fee (typically $2–$3 per foot per night), and the restaurant has limited hours — check the dinner service time when you check in so you are not left eating granola bars on deck.
Day 4: Compass Cay to Big Major Cay and Staniel Cay — Pigs and James Bond
This is the day most people build a whole Exuma trip around. Big Major Cay, better known as Pig Beach, hosts a colony of around 20 free-roaming pigs and piglets that swim out to greet approaching boats. Five nautical miles south, Staniel Cay holds the Thunderball Grotto, the sunlit underwater cave featured in the 1965 James Bond film. Stacking both in one day is ambitious but doable if you hit the grotto at the right tide.
Anchor off the beach and dinghy in. Feed the pigs only fruit and vegetables — bread and processed food harm their digestion. The pigs swim year-round but are most active in the cooler morning hours before the sun drives them into the shade.
The grotto is accessible roughly 30–45 minutes after low tide when the current slackens enough to swim in safely. Enter through the main opening on the west side — the interior fills with shafts of sunlight that illuminate the sand floor and the schools of glassfish that pulse through the cave. A 360-degree action camera with an invisible selfie stick effect captures the full cave interior in one shot without needing to frame each light shaft separately.
The yacht club serves burgers, conch fritters, and cold Kalik beers on a waterfront deck. It accepts credit cards but has a minimum spend for card payments. Dinghy dockage is free for yacht club patrons.
If the tide timing does not work for the grotto, trade it for a second afternoon at Compass Cay or push it to the following morning — Staniel Cay is only 10 nautical miles from Warderick Wells, so you can loop back early.
Day 5: Staniel Cay to Warderick Wells — The Heart of the Park
Warderick Wells is the headquarters of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, a 176-square-mile no-take marine reserve established in 1958 as the first land-and-sea park in the world. The park covers 112,640 acres and has been a fully protected area since 1986, which means the conch, grouper, and lobster populations here are noticeably denser than anywhere else on the route. Moorings are managed by park rangers, and anchoring is prohibited in the mooring fields.
Check in at the park office on Warderick Wells to pay the mooring fee and receive a map of hiking trails and snorkel sites. Moorings are first-come, first-served and fill up by early afternoon in season; arrive before 1pm to secure a spot.
The trail climbs to a ridge overlooking the park from the west side. The tradition is to leave a piece of driftwood carved with your boat’s name on the cairn at the summit. The whale skeleton washed up on the beach below is visible from the trail and worth a detour on the way down.
The park enforces a strict no-take policy — no fishing, no lobster catching, no conch harvesting. The fine is substantial, and park rangers patrol regularly by boat. Buy dinner provisions before arriving.
Day 6: Warderick Wells to Shroud Cay — Mangrove Creeks and the Washing Machine
Shroud Cay, 12 nautical miles north of Warderick Wells, is uninhabited and undeveloped — no docks, no restaurants, no houses. Its interior is a network of mangrove creeks that empty into a natural current ride locals call the Washing Machine. The cay sits within the park boundary, so the marine life in the creeks is protected and prolific: juvenile nurse sharks, sea turtles, and schools of baitfish that flush out of the mangroves as you drift past.
Launch the dinghy at the beach on the west side of the cay and motor into the main creek channel. The mangroves create a shaded tunnel that opens onto sandbars on the east side. Go at high tide when the water is deep enough to float the dinghy through the tightest bends.
At the mouth of the main creek on the east side, the outflow creates a natural current that spins you in circles before pushing you out into the open water. Run it on a rising tide when the flow is strongest. Life jackets are a good idea here — the current is playful but persistent.
Shroud Cay has no moorings and no all-weather anchorage — if the forecast calls for strong easterly winds, skip it and spend a second night at Warderick Wells instead. The park rangers can advise on conditions by VHF.
Day 7: Shroud Cay to Rose Island to Nassau — The Run Home
The final passage covers roughly 40 nautical miles back to Nassau, with a lunch stop at Rose Island to break the journey. Rose Island sits at the northern edge of the Exuma chain, close enough to Nassau that day-trippers from the capital reach it in 30 minutes by powerboat, but the island’s west side feels empty on weekdays when the tour boats have gone home. Sandy Toes restaurant and beach club operates on the island’s northern shore and offers a last taste of Exuma turquoise before the Nassau skyline rises on the horizon.
Weigh anchor by 7am for the 25-nautical-mile run north. The route stays inside the bank in 10–15 feet of water, which keeps the sea state manageable even if the trade winds are up. Sandy Toes anchors off the northern beach — call ahead on VHF to confirm they have space for your tender at their dock.
Order the conch salad and a Kalik while the kids take one last snorkel off the beach. Sandy Toes has a small gift shop and changing rooms, but no deep-water dock for the yacht itself — anchor in the sand off the west side of the island and dinghy in.
The last 15 nautical miles from Rose Island to Nassau Harbour takes roughly 1.5–2 hours under sail. Pre-book a customs appointment at the Bahamas Customs digital portal for re-entry — arriving without a slot can mean waiting at the dock for an available officer.
If your flight departs early the next morning, consider spending the final night at Palm Cay Marina rather than anchoring in Nassau Harbour — the marina has secure parking, showers, and a 25-minute taxi ride to the airport.
Practical Planning for an Exuma Sailing Charter
The biggest logistical hurdle for an Exuma charter is the permit system, which changed in April 2026. A 30-day cruising permit for a vessel between 51 and 100 feet costs $350, with an additional $350 anchoring permit if you plan to stay outside marinas. Filing happens through the Bahamas Customs digital portal, and arriving without an approved permit risks losing charter time at the dock.
Choosing Your Embarkation Point
Nassau is the most practical starting point for first-time Exuma charterers — 63 megayacht slips and a 20-minute taxi ride from LPIA make the transition from plane to boat straightforward. Staniel Cay works for repeat visitors who want to skip the northern cays and spend all seven days in the marine-park zone, but vessels over 70 feet have to anchor and tender because the dock cannot accommodate deep draft. Fort Lauderdale departures suit multi-week itineraries that include Bimini and the Gulf Stream crossing.
Permit Costs for 2026
The current fee structure applies to all foreign-flagged vessels entering Bahamian waters. A 30-day permit for a 51-to-100-foot vessel runs $350, while vessels over 100 feet pay $600. The six-month permit at $750 for 51-to-100-foot vessels includes one free reentry. An anchoring permit adds $350 for vessels between 50 and 99 feet. The Frequent Digital Cruising Card, at $2,500 for vessels 50–99 feet, covers up to two years and is worth the investment if you plan a return trip.
Sailing vs. Power Catamaran in the Exumas
Power catamarans dominate the Exuma charter fleet because the cays are spread across 120 miles with open-water crossings between clusters. A sailing catamaran drawing 4–5 feet can still access the same shallow anchorages, but passage times are longer — budget 8–10 knots under sail versus 15–20 knots on a power cat. If you are deciding which first-week Bahamas itinerary suits your group, factor in whether the kids (or the adults) have the patience for half-day sails between stops. If you are still weighing which side of the island to sleep on, this interactive map of the Exumas’ marinas and anchorages makes it easier to compare access to the park boundary against proximity to the grocery run at Staniel Cay.
The park moorings at Warderick Wells fill by early afternoon in January through April. If you arrive after 2pm without a mooring, you will have to anchor outside the park boundary and dinghy in — which means a longer, darker ride back after sunset. Call the park rangers on VHF channel 16 before you leave Staniel Cay to ask about availability.
Before You Go: Exuma Sailing Charter Questions Answered
How much does a crewed sailing charter cost per week?
Weekly rates for a crewed sailing catamaran in the Exumas typically start around $25,000 for four guests and climb with yacht size and crew count. The rate includes the vessel, crew, fuel, and basic provisions, but does not cover the cruising permit, anchoring fees, or meals ashore at marinas.
What is the best month for wind and weather?
November through May offers the most reliable trade winds and the lowest hurricane risk. February and March deliver steady 15–20 knot easterlies that keep the sailing fast and the anchorages cool, but those same months also bring the highest demand for moorings and marina slips.
Can I do this itinerary on a bareboat charter?
Yes, but the Exumas require confident navigation on shallow banks with unmarked channels. The Great Bahama Bank averages 10–15 feet deep, and running aground on a falling tide can strand you for hours. Hire a skipper for the first trip unless you have previous Bahamas bank experience.
What is the one thing that goes wrong most often?
Permit delays. The Bahamas Customs digital portal requires vessel documentation, insurance, and crew manifests uploaded before arrival. If any document is missing or incorrectly formatted, approval takes 24–48 hours — and that is time you cannot spend sailing. Submit everything at least one week before departure.
Is this route family-friendly for kids under ten?
The shallow water snorkeling at Thunderball Grotto and the nurse sharks at Compass Cay work well for children who are comfortable in the water. The 34-nautical-mile first-day passage is the longest stretch — a multigenerational Bahamas trip that includes young kids typically trades the northern run for a Staniel Cay departure to cut the first day’s sail time in half.
The Chain Works as a Whole, Not a Checklist
A week on the water in the Exumas reshuffles your sense of distance. A cay that looked close on the chart turns out to be three hours away when the wind drops, and a stop you almost skipped — the iguanas at Allan’s Cay, the Washing Machine at Shroud — becomes the story you tell most. The charter works best when you treat the itinerary as a loose thread rather than a schedule. For more Bahamas routes that skip the cruise-ship crowds, spend some time with this guide to planning an out-islands trip instead of a Nassau-based vacation.
References
Vital Charters. “Exuma Cays Yacht Charter Guide.” Vital Charters, 2025. ↗
Bahamas National Trust. “Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.” Bahamas National Trust, 2026. ↗
The Moorings. “7-Day Exumas Itinerary.” The Moorings, 2026. ↗
Trillionaire Daily. “Bahamas Yacht Charter Guide 2026.” Trillionaire Daily, 2026. ↗
If the underwater photography from the plane wreck and the grotto has you thinking about capturing more than just phone shots, the photographer’s route through the Bahamas’ most photogenic corners strings together the best sunrise anchorages and reef formations for drone and camera work. For a deeper dive into the marine life that makes the no-take park worth the permit fee, the dive-focused itinerary for underwater obsessives maps the best reefs and blue holes in the same region. Both routes pair well with a week on the water.
If you are still weighing which side of the Exumas to anchor for the night, this interactive map of the Exumas’ marinas and anchorages makes it easier to compare access to the park boundary against proximity to the grocery run at Staniel Cay.