The Seychelles’ Outer Islands: Adventure to Remote and Untouched Atolls

The Seychelles Outer Islands, a sweep of 72 coral atolls and sand cays scattered across the western Indian Ocean, feel less like a travel destination and more like a geographical oversight. Astove, one of the southernmost of these islands, is 647 miles and two plane rides from the capital, Victoria, on Mahé—closer, in fact, to Madagascar than to its own country’s seat of government.

This article covers the practical realities of reaching and experiencing these remote atolls—the flight logistics, the conservation framework, the accommodation options, and the trade-offs that come with travelling to places where “one island, one resort” is government policy. For the traveller who wants to go beyond the granite boulders of Mahé and Praslin, the Outer Islands demand serious planning but reward with something increasingly rare: genuine isolation.

Zil Elwannyen Sesel: Understanding the Outer Islands’ Geography and Access

The Outer Islands are divided into five geographical groups and are called Zil Elwannyen Sesel in the archipelago’s local creole. The Inner Islands—43 of the total 115 islands—constitute about 175 square miles of land surrounded by roughly 529,000 square miles of ocean territory. The remaining 72 coral atolls and sand cays make up the Outer Islands, where just two percent of the roughly 120,000 Seychellois live. Mahé’s airport first opened in the early 1970s, and tourism took off from there, but the Outer Islands remained largely inaccessible to anyone without a private vessel until the last decade.

The Islands Development Company (IDC) manages development across the Outer Islands and enforces a strict “one island, one resort” policy. That means each inhabited atoll typically has a single accommodation operator, which simplifies choice but eliminates competition. Blue Safari, a low-impact ocean-adventure company founded in 2012 by Murray Collins and Keith Rose-Innes, took over the lone accommodation on Alphonse Island in 2012 and now runs operations across Alphonse, Astove, and Cosmoledo atolls. A 16-seater Beechcraft jet ferries passengers to Alphonse, 400 kilometres south of Mahé, and from there onward connections to Astove and Cosmoledo involve smaller aircraft or boat transfers.

Astove, Cosmoledo, and Alphonse: Three Atolls, Three Experiences

Astove: Abandoned Copra and a Ghost Yacht

Astove is a tiny atoll with an abandoned copra plantation, and its land encircles eight square miles of lagoon. Giant tortoises roam the plantation grounds, and migratory birds use the atoll as a landing strip. On Astove’s northwesterly shore, a ghost yacht named the Shangri-La lies beached—a visible reminder of the tempestuous waters of the western Indian Ocean, formerly called the Sea of Zanj and feared by medieval Arab explorers. The reef surrounding Astove has a vertical drop of 900 metres and is considered one of the world’s least-explored dive sites. Jacques Cousteau filmed some of his 1956 documentary The Silent World at Astove’s reef, which pioneered underwater colour photography. The reef contains sharp blades of fossilized coral called champignon that make wading treacherous without footwear.

Cosmoledo: Temporary Pods on a Peel of Sand

Cosmoledo is a thin two-square-mile peel of sand whose ring encloses a lagoon 28 times its size. Blue Safari sets up eight temporary eco-pod rooms on Cosmoledo—elegantly converted shipping containers and research-style camp tents designed to be disassembled with little trace. The atoll comprises 20-odd islands, and the eco-pods are positioned to minimise visual impact. Green turtles nest on the beaches, and the Aldabra Group, which includes Cosmoledo, hosts some of the planet’s largest seabird colonies. The temporary nature of the accommodation means a shorter season and fewer available slots than at Alphonse.

Alphonse: The Established Eco-Resort

Alphonse Island is a tiny ray-shaped island of less than a square mile. Blue Safari turned Alphonse Island Lodge into a 29-key eco-resort that is mostly solar-powered, runs desalination and sewage treatment plants, and operates rainwater harvesting and recycling programs. The lodge’s farm is roughly 430,000 square feet and produces four tons of crops a month, supplying up to 90 percent of plant-based food across all of Blue Safari’s Outer Islands accommodations. Blue Safari sources fish only from the open ocean, never the reef, and supports the Alphonse Foundation, an NGO that funds the presence of Seychelles’s Island Conservation Society on Alphonse. The foundation surveys the atoll’s reef, migratory-bird, and fish populations; last year it tagged about 20 manta rays and 32 sharks, including lemon, grey, reef, silvertip, and bull species.

Planning Your Outer Islands Trip: Logistics, Timing, and Cost

Getting There: Two Plane Rides Minimum

Reaching Astove requires two plane rides from Mahé. The first leg lands at Alphonse; the second leg is a smaller aircraft or charter flight onward. Astove is 647 miles and two plane rides away from Mahé, making it one of the farthest south of the Outer Islands. The 16-seater Beechcraft jet to Alphonse operates on a fixed schedule, and weather cancellations happen during the November–March northwest monsoon when squalls roll in quickly. Blue Safari coordinates all inter-island transfers, so independent booking is not possible—you book the package, not the flight segments.

Best Time: Southeast Trade Winds vs. Northwest Monsoon

The western Indian Ocean rolls and roars in summer, whipped up by the southeast trade winds from May to September. This period offers the calmest lagoon conditions for diving and fly-fishing but also brings stronger winds on exposed shorelines. The northwest monsoon from November to March brings calmer seas but higher humidity and more frequent rain squalls. The Outer Islands fall within a 162,000-square-mile protection zone funded by Seychelles’ Blue Bond—the world’s first, launched in 2018, which raised $15 million from global investors to write off part of the national debt in exchange for protecting 30 percent of its waters. Diving visibility peaks in the trade wind season when plankton is pushed offshore.

Cost: The Price of Exclusivity

Accommodation rates at Alphonse Island Lodge and Blue Safari’s Outer Islands properties are not published publicly and require direct inquiry. The “one island, one resort” policy means no budget alternatives exist—the only option on Alphonse is the 29-key lodge. The flight costs from Mahé are bundled into the package price. For comparison, the Cheval Blanc Seychelles opened in 2024 and the Waldorf Astoria Seychelles Platte Island opened in the article’s publication year, both signalling a shift toward ultra-luxury development in the Outer Islands. The Four Seasons opened its second Seychelles property in 2018 on Desroches Island. Budget travellers should consider that a day trip to the Outer Islands is not feasible; the minimum stay is typically three to five nights due to flight schedules.

On the Ground: Conservation, Food, and Practical Realities

Conservation in Practice

Seychelles has become a role model Blue Economy and is one of the few nations on track for its UN Sustainable Development Goals. About 60 percent of Seychelles’ land is protected. In 1994 the Seychelles government banned turtle hunting, and Aldabra is now home to one of the largest green turtle breeding populations in the western Indian Ocean. The Aldabra atoll, a UNESCO site, hosts more than 150,000 giant tortoises. The Alphonse Foundation surveys the atoll’s reef, migratory-bird, and fish populations, and last year tagged about 20 manta rays and 32 sharks. For the visitor, this means strict rules: no reef fishing, no touching marine life, and no removal of shells or coral. Blue Safari’s guides enforce these rules consistently, and guests who do not comply may be asked to leave the island.

What to Pack and What to Expect

The farm at Alphonse Lodge is roughly 430,000 square feet and produces four tons of crops a month, but fresh provisions beyond what the farm grows arrive by supply barge. Dietary restrictions should be communicated well in advance; the kitchen can accommodate most requests, but ingredient availability is limited by what the barge brings. The lodge’s farm supplies up to 90 percent of plant-based food across all of Blue Safari’s accommodations, including the guesthouse on Astove and the eco-camp on Cosmoledo. Pack reef-safe sunscreen—standard sunscreens are banned on all Outer Islands to protect the coral. Insect repellent is essential, especially at dawn and dusk on Cosmoledo and Astove where sandflies are active.

Local Etiquette and Customs

Seychellois French Creole is the lingua franca, though English is widely spoken in all Blue Safari properties. Tipping is appreciated but not expected; a 10 percent service charge is often added to bills at the lodge. The Outer Islands operate on a relaxed pace—meal times are posted but flexible, and schedules revolve around tides and weather rather than clock hours. Visitors should respect the “one island, one resort” policy by not wandering into staff-only areas or construction zones, which are clearly marked.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Seychelles Outer Islands

Can I visit the Outer Islands independently without a resort package?

No. The IDC’s “one island, one resort” policy means each inhabited atoll has a single accommodation operator, and the only way to stay overnight is through that operator’s package. Day trips are not available because flights are scheduled for multi-night stays and there are no public ferries to the Outer Islands.

The upside of this restriction is that you will never share the reef with another boatload of tourists. The downside is that you cannot compare prices or choose a different lodging style—the package is the only option.

How much does a trip to the Outer Islands cost?

Blue Safari does not publish rates publicly, but a multi-night package including flights from Mahé, accommodation, meals, and guided activities typically starts well above $1,000 per person per night. The 29-key Alphonse Island Lodge is the most expensive option; the temporary eco-pods on Cosmoledo are slightly more affordable but operate on a shorter season.

Budget travellers should note that the Waldorf Astoria on Platte Island and the Cheval Blanc on Mahé represent the high end of the market, but the Outer Islands properties charge a premium for isolation rather than luxury finishes.

Is the diving worth the logistical hassle?

The reef at Astove drops vertically 900 metres and remains one of the world’s least-explored dive sites. Jacques Cousteau filmed The Silent World here in 1956. The Aldabra Group hosts some of the planet’s largest seabird colonies and one of the largest green turtle breeding populations in the western Indian Ocean.

The trade-off is that weather can cancel dives at short notice. The southeast trade winds from May to September offer the best visibility but also create surge on the drop-off wall. Divers should have intermediate experience and comfort with drift conditions.

What happens if a flight is cancelled due to weather?

Blue Safari coordinates all inter-island transfers, so they manage rebooking. During the northwest monsoon (November–March), squalls can ground the Beechcraft jet for 24–48 hours. Guests are accommodated at the lodge at no extra cost, but the missed activity time is not refunded.

Travel insurance that covers weather-related itinerary changes is strongly recommended. The Outer Islands are not a destination with flexible backup options—there are no alternative flights or boat services.

Can I see giant tortoises on the Outer Islands?

Yes. Astove’s abandoned copra plantation has giant tortoises roaming freely, and the UNESCO-protected Aldabra atoll is home to more than 150,000 giant tortoises. Visitors to Astove can walk among them without the crowds found on Curieuse Island in the Inner Islands.

For a more structured encounter, the giant tortoise habitat on Curieuse Island is accessible from Praslin and offers a ranger-led experience that is easier to reach than Astove.

Sources and further reading

Exploring Seychelles’ Outer Islands, Some of Earth’s Last Truly Wild Places. Condé Nast Traveler, 2024.

Exploring the Outer Seychelles, the Galápagos of the Indian Ocean. Condé Nast Traveller Middle East, 2024.