Seychelles offers far more than just stunning beaches; its culinary scene is a vibrant tapestry woven from Creole, French, Indian, and African influences. Forget the predictable tourist menus and plunge headfirst into a world of fresh seafood, fragrant spices, and unique local ingredients that will tantalize your taste buds and leave you craving more.
The Real Taste of Creole Cuisine
Creole cuisine is the heart and soul of Seychellois food, and it’s markedly different from what you might expect. It’s not just about seafood (although that’s a big part of it!), but also about the way the food is prepared and the ingredients used. The emphasis is on fresh, locally sourced produce and spices, creating dishes that are both flavorful and healthy.
One of the best places to truly experience authentic Creole flavors is at a local family-run restaurant. These establishments are often tucked away and unassuming, but the food is incredible. Think of these as “Mums” kitchens—there are lots of variations. Forget fancy décor; focus on the aromas wafting from the kitchen and the friendly chatter of locals enjoying their lunch. Many are simply called “Take Away”, and you see them with a long queue. Don’t be dissuaded as they are very popular.
For a truly immersive experience, consider joining a Creole cooking class. Several local chefs offer classes where you can learn to prepare traditional dishes like grilled fish with Creole sauce, octopus curry, and breadfruit chips. It’s a hands-on way to understand the ingredients and techniques that make Creole cuisine so special. You might learn about “pwason griye”—whole fish grilled with Creole spices, served with a vibrant sauce made from tomatoes, onions, garlic, and Scotch bonnet peppers. The heat from the peppers adds a welcome kick, balanced by the sweetness of the tomatoes and the aromatics of the onions and garlic. You can locate these cooking classes through local information centres or online forums frequented by expats.
Beyond the Tourist Traps: Finding Authentic Eats
Venturing beyond the main tourist areas is key to discovering Seychelles’ hidden culinary gems. While the resorts and beachfront restaurants offer convenient dining options, they often cater to a broader palate and may not showcase the true essence of Creole cuisine.
Victoria Market: Start your culinary adventure at the Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market, also known as the Victoria Market. It’s a bustling hub of activity, where local fishermen, farmers and vendors gather to sell their wares. Here, you can find the freshest seafood, exotic fruits and vegetables, and a variety of spices that are essential to Creole cooking. It’s a great place to people-watch, soak up the local atmosphere, and pick up some ingredients to try your hand at preparing a Creole meal back at your accommodation. You can also find small food stalls serving local snacks like samousas (similar to samosas) and bann zis (banana fritters). Try going early in the morning (before 9 am) to witness the busiest period and get the best selection. The market is located in the heart of Victoria, easily accessible by bus or taxi.
Roadside Stalls: Keep an eye out for roadside stalls selling homemade snacks and drinks. These stalls often offer the most authentic and affordable culinary experiences. You might find grilled corn on the cob, fresh coconut water, or homemade cakes and cookies. These aren’t easy to find. They tend to be sporadic, but when you do find one, be sure to stop.
Local “Take Aways”: “Take Away” spots are abundant in Seychelles; they are local eateries serving pre-made Creole dishes at incredible prices. They are perfect for lunch, offering portions such as Grilled Fish, Fish Curry, Chicken Curry, Lentils, and Rice, all for around SCR 75 – 125 (approximately $6 – $10 USD). These establishments are extremely popular. Don’t be surprised by long lines for a quick, reasonably priced, authentic meal.
Must-Try Dishes in Seychelles
Here are some essential dishes to try during your culinary exploration of Seychelles:
Grilled Fish with Creole Sauce: As mentioned earlier, this is a staple of Creole cuisine. The fish is typically marinated in a blend of spices and grilled to perfection, then served with a vibrant Creole sauce. The sauce is the key, and each chef has their own unique recipe, but it usually includes tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, and Scotch bonnet peppers. Look for restaurants that offer fresh caught Fish of the Day.
Octopus Curry: Known locally as “curry zourit,” this dish is a true delicacy. The octopus is slow-cooked in a rich and flavorful curry sauce until it’s incredibly tender. The curry typically includes coconut milk, tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, and a blend of spices like turmeric, cumin, and coriander. It’s often served with rice or breadfruit.
Breadfruit Chips: Breadfruit is a staple crop in Seychelles, and it’s prepared in many different ways. One of the most popular is breadfruit chips. The breadfruit is thinly sliced and fried until golden and crispy. They’re typically seasoned with salt and pepper, and they make a great snack or side dish. This isn’t found in upscale restaurants, but rather in local establishments or roadside stalls.
Lentil Stew: Lentil stew, or “dholl,” is a comforting and flavorful dish that’s often served as a vegetarian option. The lentils are simmered with coconut milk, tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, and a variety of spices. It’s a hearty and satisfying meal, and it’s often served with rice or bread.
Shark Chutney: Shark chutney, known as “chatini rekin,” is a rather unique local delicacy. It’s made from boiled shark meat that is shredded and cooked with bilimbi (a sour fruit), onions, ginger, garlic, and spices. It has a tangy and slightly sour flavor, and is often served as a condiment or side dish. It’s an acquired taste, but adventurous eaters should definitely give it a try. Shark meat used to be easily accessible. Now, it can become scarce depending on fishing restrictions—ensure its available before ordering.
Satini: Satini is a generic designation for vegetable chutneys and salads. There are lots of variations – Mango satini, papaya satini, pumpkin satini, breadfruit satini, etc. It comes in different flavors such as sweet, savory and very hot. So you can request based on your preference.
Ladob: Ladob is a traditional Seychellois dessert made with sweet potatoes or breadfruit cooked in coconut milk, sugar, nutmeg, and vanilla. It’s a rich and creamy dessert that’s perfect for satisfying your sweet tooth. There are typically two versions of Ladob. One savory version with breadfruit, the other one sweet version with ripe plantains combined with coconut milk, nutmeg, and vanilla. You can use either one based on your needs.
Exploring Local Drinks
No culinary journey is complete without sampling the local beverages. Seychelles offers a variety of unique drinks that are worth trying.
Coconut Water: This is an obvious and refreshing choice, especially on a hot day. Fresh coconut water is readily available from roadside vendors. Look for the vendors with the tallest stack of coconuts. Ask them to open them up right in front of you.
SeyBrew Beer: SeyBrew is the local beer, and it’s a crisp and refreshing lager that’s perfect for pairing with Creole food. It’s widely available in restaurants, bars, and supermarkets.
Takamaka Bay Rum: This is the local rum, and it’s made from sugar cane grown on the islands. It comes in several varieties, including white rum, dark rum, and spiced rum. It’s a popular ingredient in cocktails, and you can also try it neat or on the rocks.
Kalou: Kalou, or palm wine, is a traditional alcoholic beverage made from the sap of coconut palm trees. It’s a fermented drink with a slightly sweet and tangy flavor. It’s not as readily available as other drinks, but you may be able to find it in some local villages or at cultural events. It is important to find a reputable local producer. Improperly brewed Kalou can be harmful and, in some cases, deadly from the high concentration of methanol. Kalou is also called toddy, tuba, white toddy, and palm toddy.
Local Fruit Juices: Take advantage of the abundance of tropical fruits available in Seychelles and try some of the local fruit juices. You can find juices made from mangoes, passion fruit, guava, and other exotic fruits. These are often freshly squeezed and make a refreshing and healthy drink.
Dining Etiquette and Local Customs
When dining in Seychelles, it’s helpful to be aware of some basic etiquette and local customs.
Dress Code: The dress code in most restaurants is casual, especially during the day. However, some of the more upscale restaurants may require smart casual attire in the evening. It’s always a good idea to check the dress code beforehand.
Tipping: Tipping is not always expected in Seychelles, but it’s always appreciated for good service. A tip of 10-15% is customary in restaurants.
Greetings: When entering a restaurant or shop, it’s polite to greet the staff with a simple “Bonjour” (good day) or “Bonsoir” (good evening). This shows respect and appreciation for their hospitality.
Conversation: Seychellois people are generally very friendly and welcoming. Don’t be afraid to engage in conversation with the locals and ask them about their culture and cuisine. You might learn some interesting facts and get some valuable recommendations.
Restaurant Recommendations
Here are a few specific restaurants to consider for an authentic culinary experience:
Marie Antoinette Restaurant (Victoria, Mahé): This is one of the oldest and most iconic restaurants in Seychelles, serving traditional Creole cuisine in a historic setting. The restaurant is located near the city center. Its location is very close to other local attractions, such as museums and national monuments. Try the fish dishes and their well-known fruit bat curry (seasonal).
La Plage Restaurant (Beau Vallon, Mahé): Located directly on Beau Vallon beach, La Plage offers a romantic setting and serves delicious seafood dishes with a Creole twist. It’s a little more upscale, but the views and the food are worth the splurge. You have a clear view of the Indian Ocean whilst savouring your food.
Chez Batista (Takamaka, Mahé): This beachfront restaurant is known for its fresh seafood, grilled meats, and relaxed atmosphere. It’s a great place to enjoy a casual lunch or dinner with your toes in the sand. The family-run eatery offers some of the island’s best grilled seafood, served in a relaxed, outdoor setting.
Delplace Restaurant (Port Launay, Mahé): Delplace Restaurant is on the western coast of Mahé. Known for its excellent Creole and international cuisine, Delplace is a great spot for a sunset dinner. The restaurant offers a diverse menu, from seafood platters to vegetarian options.
Restaurant Paradisier (Praslin): This restaurant serves some of the best Creole food on Praslin. You can ask for a set menu featuring the best of Creole cuisine if you have problems choosing. The atmosphere is simple and inviting – a true home-style cooking experience.
Coco Rouge (Praslin): Coco Rouge offers a laid-back dining experience serving Creole cuisine. The outdoor seating area makes it a great spot for a casual dinner. The restaurant is in walking distance of the famous Anse Volbert/Côte D’Or. It features a daily rotating buffet for lunch, offering a wide array of Creole dishes. For dinner, the restaurant operates à la carte.
Planning your Culinary Trip
Here are some tips to help you plan your culinary trip to Seychelles:
Do Your Research: Before you go, research local restaurants and food stalls online. Read reviews and ask for recommendations from other travelers. You can start with official tourism website or travel forums.
Be Adventurous: Don’t be afraid to try new things and step outside of your comfort zone. The best culinary experiences often come from unexpected places.
Learn Some Basic Creole: Knowing a few basic Creole phrases can go a long way in making a connection with the locals and enhancing your dining experience. Simple phrases like “Bonzour” (Good morning/day) and “Mersi” (Thank you) will be appreciated.
Book in Advance: Popular restaurants, especially those in tourist areas, can get busy, especially during peak season. It’s always a good idea to book in advance to avoid disappointment.
Consider the Season: Certain fruits and vegetables are seasonal in Seychelles, so the availability of certain dishes may vary depending on the time of year. You might be surprised by the local fruits on offer.
Cost Considerations
The cost of dining in Seychelles can vary greatly depending on the type of restaurant and the dishes you choose. Tourist-oriented restaurants can be quite expensive, but you can find affordable options by eating at local eateries and “take aways.” Budget at least SCR 500-1000 (approximately $40-$80 USD) per day for food, but this will vary based on your specific choices.
Street food and local “take aways” are the most wallet-friendly way to sample Seychellois cuisine, with meals often costing under SCR 150 (around $12 USD). Mid-range restaurants offer a mix of Creole and international dishes, with main courses ranging from SCR 250 to 500 (approximately $20 to $40 USD). Fine dining restaurants and resorts can charge upwards of SCR 700 (approximately $55 USD) or more per dish.
Navigating Transportation
Getting around Seychelles is relatively easy, but it’s important to plan your transportation in advance, especially if you’re planning to visit restaurants that are located outside of the main tourist areas.
Buses: The local bus system is an affordable and convenient way to travel around Mahé and Praslin. Buses run frequently and cover most of the islands. The bus fare is a flat rate of SCR 7 (approximately $0.50 USD) per ride.
Taxis: Taxis are readily available in Seychelles, but they can be more expensive than buses. It’s always a good idea to negotiate the fare before getting into a taxi. You can find taxi stands at the airport, in Victoria, and at major hotels.
Rental Cars: Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore the islands at your own pace. However, be aware that the roads can be narrow and winding, and driving can be challenging in some areas. You’ll need an international driving permit to rent a car. Expect to pay around SCR 500-1000 (approximately $40-$80 USD) per day for a rental car.
Ferries: Ferries are the main mode of transportation between the islands. Cat Cocos operates high-speed ferries between Mahé, Praslin, and La Digue. The ferry ride from Mahé to Praslin takes about one hour and costs around SCR 1000 (approximately $80 USD) per person. Book ferry tickets in advance, especially during peak season.
Practical Examples
Let’s imagine a day of culinary exploration on Mahé:
Morning: Start with a visit to the Victoria Market to browse the local produce and sample some fresh fruit. Grab a samousa from one of the food stalls for a quick and cheap breakfast (around SCR 20).
Lunch: Head to a local “take away” spot for a traditional Creole lunch of grilled fish with rice and lentils (around SCR 100). Ask the staff for their recommendation on their popular local cuisines.
Afternoon: Participate in a Creole cooking class to learn how to prepare some of your favorite dishes (around SCR 600 – 800 per person).
Evening: Enjoy a sunset dinner at La Plage Restaurant in Beau Vallon, savoring fresh seafood and Creole flavors while enjoying the stunning ocean view (around SCR 800 – 1200 per person).
FAQ
What is Creole cuisine?
Creole cuisine is a fusion of African, French, Indian, and Asian culinary traditions, characterized by the use of fresh, local ingredients, flavorful spices, and slow-cooking techniques.
Where can I find authentic Creole food in Seychelles?
The best places to find authentic Creole food are at local family-run restaurants, roadside stalls, and at the Victoria Market.
What are some must-try dishes in Seychelles?
Some must-try dishes include grilled fish with Creole sauce, octopus curry, breadfruit chips, lentil stew, shark chutney, and Ladob.
What is the local beer in Seychelles?
The local beer is SeyBrew, a crisp and refreshing lager.
Is it safe to drink the tap water in Seychelles?
While treated, it’s generally recommended to drink bottled water, especially if you have a sensitive stomach. Bottled water is readily available in shops and restaurants.
What should I wear when dining in Seychelles?
The dress code is generally casual, but some upscale restaurants may require smart casual attire in the evening.
Is tipping customary in Seychelles?
Tipping is not always expected, but it’s always appreciated for good service. A tip of 10-15% is customary in restaurants.
References
- Seychelles Tourism Board Official Website
- Insight Guides: Seychelles
- Lonely Planet: Seychelles
Ready to embark on your own Seychellois culinary adventure? Ditch the all-inclusive buffet and dive headfirst into the vibrant world of Creole flavors. Talk to locals, explore hidden eateries, and don’t be afraid to try something new. Your taste buds (and your Instagram feed) will thank you for it. This is more than just a vacation; it’s a chance to savor the soul of Seychelles, one delicious bite at a time. Book that flight, pack your appetite, and get ready for a culinary experience you won’t soon forget!
