The Seychelles might conjure images of fresh seafood plucked directly from the turquoise waters, but beyond the grilled fish, a vibrant and surprisingly diverse plant-based culinary scene awaits adventurous eaters. From rustic Creole curries bursting with locally grown vegetables to innovative international dishes that celebrate the island’s abundant fruits, vegetarian and vegan food in the Seychelles is far from an afterthought – it’s a delicious adventure in itself.
Exploring the Creole Vegetarian Landscape
Creole cuisine is the heart and soul of Seychellois food, and while meat and fish often take center stage, the foundation is built on fresh, local produce. Many traditional Creole dishes are naturally vegetarian or can easily be adapted, making it easier to find plant-based options than you might initially expect. The key is to ask and be open to trying new things!
One of the most accessible and satisfying options is vegetable curry. Creole curries are rich, flavorful stews packed with coconut milk, spices like ginger, garlic, turmeric, and chili, and a medley of vegetables. Expect to find pumpkin (marrow in Creole), eggplant (bringelle), breadfruit (friyapen), okra (kalalou), and green papaya, all simmered to tender perfection. Every family has their own curry recipe, so the taste can vary significantly from place to place. Don’t be surprised if the same dish tastes completely different at two restaurants.
Lentil soup (soup di lentiy) is another staple. Often served as a starter or a light meal, it’s a hearty and flavorful soup made with red lentils, vegetables, and aromatic spices. It’s a fantastic, affordable option easily found in local eateries and even some higher-end restaurants.
Rice is the indispensable side, and often comes with a generous serving of chutney. Some common chutneys include papaya chutney, pumpkin chutney and even a green mango chutney. These aren’t usually very spicy, but packed full of flavour. A word of caution; although most chutneys contain no meat some also contain fish, so be sure to enquire. Also, ask your server what dishes are cooked using ghee, a type of clarified butter.
To find these authentic Creole dishes, venture beyond the tourist resorts. Explore local Creole restaurants, often family-run establishments tucked away in villages. For instance, on Mahé, consider visiting restaurants in Beau Vallon or Anse Royale – ask locals for their recommendations! On Praslin, try small restaurants near Baie Sainte Anne jetty. These places are likely to offer more affordable and authentic meals than restaurants inside large hotels. Expect to pay anywhere from 150 to 300 Seychellois Rupees (SCR) for a main course at these locations, depending on the restaurant and meal.
Navigating Menus and Communicating Your Needs
While many restaurants are becoming increasingly aware of vegetarian and vegan diets, printed menus may not always explicitly list plant-based options. Don’t be afraid to ask your server about vegetarian or vegan alternatives to dishes on the menu. Specify that you don’t eat meat or fish and inquire about the ingredients used in sauces and stocks. The Creole culture is incredibly accommodating, and chefs are often happy to adapt dishes or create something special for you. Asking “Do you have any vegetarian options?” or “Can you make this dish without meat/fish?” is a great starting point.
Restaurants with Dedicated Vegetarian/Vegan Options
Several restaurants in the Seychelles are explicitly catering to vegetarian and vegan diners, offering dedicated menus or a significant selection of plant-based dishes. These establishments often incorporate international flavors and modern culinary techniques, presenting a fresh perspective on vegetarian and vegan food.
On Mahé, La Plaine St. André, home to the Takamaka Rum Distillery, offers some vegan options on their menu, including salads, curries, and innovative vegetable dishes. It is a pricey option for dining out but the site is picturesque and worth visiting. Expect to pay upwards of 400 SCR for a main course and be sure to reserve online in advance. This is a great spot to enjoy Creole food in a sophisticated dining environment.
For a more casual (and affordable) option, many hotels and guesthouses now also offer vegetarian and sometimes even vegan dishes as part of their buffet breakfast or dinner. Check with your accommodation in advance to see what’s available.
Supermarkets and Self-Catering
If you prefer to cook your own meals, supermarkets in the Seychelles have a decent selection of fresh produce, including local fruits and vegetables grown on the islands. Larger supermarkets like STC Hypermarket on Mahé or Kreol Services on Praslin are your best bet for finding a wider range of ingredients, including tofu, plant-based milk (often soy), and imported vegetarian products. Markets, however, offer the freshest produce and generally at better prices. Remember to clean your produce very carefully to remove anything that may have been accidentally picked up from the ground.
Consider staying in self-catering accommodation to give yourself the freedom to prepare your own meals. Many guesthouses and apartments offer kitchen facilities. This is especially helpful if you have specific dietary requirements or want to save money on eating out.
Seychellois Fruits and Vegetables: A Treasure Trove
The Seychelles boasts an incredible array of fresh fruits and vegetables, many of which you may not have encountered before. Exploring these local ingredients is a crucial part of the vegetarian/vegan culinary experience.
Breadfruit (friyapen): This starchy fruit is a staple in Seychellois cuisine. It can be boiled, baked, fried, or grilled and has a mild, slightly sweet flavor, not dissimilar to potatoes. It’s often used in curries, soups, or simply served as a side dish. Breadfruit chips are a tasty snack, too, though they aren’t always easy to find in shops.
Eggplant (bringelle): A versatile vegetable used in curries, stews, and gratins. Creole cuisine often prepares eggplant in a creamy tomato-based sauce.
Pumpkin (marrow): Different varieties of pumpkin are grown in the Seychelles. It’s often found in curries, soups, and desserts like pumpkin pie. It can be grilled, boiled or steamed. The pumpkin flavour is often quite mild, and more akin to eating butternut squash than more strongly flavoured gourds. This makes it an excellent ingredient for curries as it tends not to overpower the other flavours.
Okra (kalalou): This slightly slimy vegetable is a common ingredient in Creole stews and soups. It has a unique flavor and texture that some people love and others find challenging. A great way to cook okra is to stir fry with garlic and onions in very hot oil, to avoid the slimy texture.
Green Papaya: Before it ripens into the sweet orange fruit, green papaya is used as a vegetable in Creole cuisine. It has a mild flavor and a slightly crunchy texture, similar to a courgette. It’s often used in salads, curries, or as a side dish.
Mangoes: The Seychelles has many varieties, and they’re at their best from November to March. If you are there during this period, you will never be short of fresh, delicious mangoes on the side of your plate!
Passion Fruit: One of the best-smelling and tasting fruits, passion fruit are almost impossible to find in the supermarkets, but will grow in the wild. It is at its best from April to June.
Star Fruit: Another very common fruit across the island. It is usually available at an affordable price at supermarkets, and a delicious addition to salads or fruit plates.
Tips for Finding Local Produce
To experience the best of Seychellois fruits and vegetables, visit local markets. The Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market in Victoria (Mahé) is a bustling hub where you can find fresh produce directly from local farmers. Keep in mind that opening hours can vary, and the market is generally busiest on Saturday mornings. Many side stalls operate outside of the market too, so it can be busier than it first appears. On Praslin, check out the market in Baie Sainte Anne. These markets provide the most authentic experience of local produce and culture.
Roadside stalls are another great option. Farmers often set up small stalls along the roadsides, selling fruits and vegetables directly from their gardens. This is an excellent way to support local farmers and find the freshest ingredients.
Veganizing Your Seychellois Experience
Being vegan in the Seychelles requires slightly more planning and communication than being vegetarian, as many traditional Creole dishes contain eggs or dairy products. However, with a bit of effort, you can certainly enjoy a delicious and fulfilling vegan experience.
Hidden Ingredients to Watch Out For
Be aware of these common ingredients that might be used in Creole cuisine and are not vegan:
- Ghee (clarified butter): Used in some curries and breads.
- Honey: Used as a sweetener in some desserts and drinks.
- Dairy Milk: May be used in some curries, desserts, and hot beverages. Request coconut milk as a substitute.
- Eggs: Check for eggs in breads, cakes, and baked goods. Some Creole desserts also contain eggs.
Vegan-Friendly Substitutions
Here are some ideas of what to ask for as replacements:
- Ghee: Ask for oil instead of ghee in curries or breads. Coconut oil is a good option.
- Dairy Milk: Request coconut milk in curries, coffee, or tea.
Snacks and Desserts
Vegan snack options are quite limited in the Seychelles, however, the supermarkets usually have fresh local fruit available, like bananas, passion fruit, mangoes and starfruit. The local cassava crisps are also usually vegan, but always check the label.
Beyond the Plate: Ethical Considerations
Traveling as a vegetarian or vegan in the Seychelles also presents an opportunity to consider the environmental and ethical impact of your food choices. Supporting local farmers, choosing sustainably sourced produce, and reducing food waste can contribute to a more responsible and sustainable tourism experience.
Supporting Local Farmers
Whenever possible, choose to buy produce from local farmers. This helps support the local economy and reduces the carbon footprint associated with importing food from overseas. Look for roadside stalls or visit local markets to buy fresh produce directly from farmers.
The Seychelles Agricultural Agency (SAA) actively promotes sustainable farming practices and supports small-scale farmers. By supporting these farmers, you are contributing to a more sustainable food system.
Reducing Food Waste
Be mindful of food waste when eating out or preparing your own meals. Order only what you can eat, and if you have leftovers, ask if you can take them with you. When preparing your own meals, plan your menus carefully to minimize food waste. Composting is not widely practiced in the Seychelles, so reducing waste is particularly important.
Responsible Dining
Consider environmental and animal welfare when making food choices. Choose restaurants that prioritize local ingredients and sustainable practices.
The Seychelles Sustainable Tourism Label (SSTL) is a voluntary certification program that recognizes tourism businesses that are committed to sustainable practices. Look for restaurants and accommodations that have been awarded the SSTL label.
Practical Tips for Planning Your Trip
Here are some practical tips to help you plan a successful vegetarian or vegan trip to the Seychelles:
- Research restaurants in advance: Look for restaurants with vegetarian or vegan options or those known for accommodating dietary restrictions. Check online reviews and menus before you go.
- Learn basic Creole phrases: Knowing a few basic Creole phrases, such as “I am vegetarian/vegan” or “Do you have vegetarian/vegan options?” can be helpful when communicating with locals.
- Pack essential snacks: If you have specific dietary needs, consider packing essential snacks from home, especially if you are traveling to smaller islands where options may be limited.
- Stay in self-catering accommodation: This gives you greater control over your meals and allows you to prepare your own vegetarian or vegan dishes.
Sample Itinerary
Here’s a sample itinerary to plan some dining options into a trip:
- Day 1: Arrive in Mahé. Settle into accommodation. Visit Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market in Victoria for fresh fruits and vegetables. Prepare a fresh salad for lunch. Then, dinner at La Plaine St. André to enjoy local cuisine.
- Day 2: Beach Day. Pack some fruit, salad and water. Stop into a market on the way home for ingredients to make vegetable curry at your accommodation.
- Day 3: Day trip from Mahé to Praslin. Visit Baie Sainte Anne market. Book lunch or dinner at one of the restaurants near the jetties. Take the catamaran ferry.
FAQ Section
What is the local currency in the Seychelles?
The local currency is the Seychellois Rupee (SCR). While major credit cards are widely accepted in tourist areas, it’s a good idea to have some cash on hand for smaller establishments, local markets, and transportation.
Is English widely spoken in the Seychelles?
Yes, English is one of the three official languages of the Seychelles, along with Creole and French. You should have no problem communicating with locals in English.
What is the best time to visit the Seychelles?
The Seychelles has a tropical climate and is generally warm and humid year-round. The best time to visit depends on your preferences. The months of April-May and September-October are considered the shoulder seasons and offer pleasant weather with lower rainfall.
Are there any vegetarian/vegan cooking classes in the Seychelles?
While dedicated vegetarian/vegan cooking classes may not be widely advertised, you can inquire with local chefs or guesthouses about the possibility of arranging a private cooking lesson. This can be a great way to learn about Creole cuisine and prepare plant-based dishes.
References
Seychelles Sustainable Tourism Label website
Seychelles Agricultural Agency (SAA) website
So, are you ready to embark on a plant-based paradise in the Seychelles? Don’t let the initial perception of a seafood-centric destination deter you – the islands are brimming with delicious vegetarian and vegan possibilities waiting to be discovered. Pack your bags, brush up on your Creole phrases, and prepare for a flavorful adventure that will tantalize your taste buds and leave you with unforgettable memories.