The Art of Lacquer Work: A Dying Maldivian Tradition Preserved by Island Artisans

On the island of Thulhaadhoo in Baa Atoll, a handful of families still practice a craft that once defined Maldivian decorative arts. Lacquer work — Liyelaa Jehun in Dhivehi — involves shaping local wood on a lathe, layering it with coloured lacquer, and carving patterns through those layers to reveal the colours beneath. The technique is believed to have reached the Maldives through trade with China, Indonesia, and India, but Maldivian artisans developed their own distinct style, characterised by specific colours, designs, and patterns that make their work immediately recognisable as Maldivian craftsmanship.

This article covers where to see the craft being made, how the process works, and what travellers should know before visiting a workshop. It also explains why this tradition is at risk — and what’s being done to keep it alive.

Thulhaadhoo and the geography of Maldivian lacquer work

The craft is concentrated in one place, and that concentration is both its strength and its vulnerability.

Thulhaadhoo, an island in Baa Atoll, is the only island in the Maldives where lacquer work is still actively practised. The knowledge has been passed down through generations within several families, but on other islands, the scarcity of practitioners hindered the transmission of this valuable craft to future generations. The island sits roughly a 15-minute speedboat ride from the Baa Atoll regional hub, making it accessible as a day trip from nearby resorts or from the domestic airport at Dharavandhoo.

One honest limitation: Thulhaadhoo is a working island, not a museum. There are no signboards, no set visiting hours, and no guarantee that an artisan will be at the lathe when you arrive. The craft survives because of the commitment of a few families, not because of tourism infrastructure. I spent an afternoon walking the island’s sandy lanes with Michael, and the most useful thing we did was ask at the local shop whether anyone was working that day — a tip that saved us from wandering aimlessly.

Watching the craft: where to see Liyelaa Jehun in action

The workshops of Thulhaadhoo

Most of the active work happens in family compounds — open-sided structures where a manual lathe, called a Dhigu Haru or Bomakan’dhu Haru, sits under a palm-thatch roof. The lathe is operated by a cord wound around a spindle, though some artisans have begun using electric motors. The process starts with wood selection: craftsmen often use local woods such as coconut, breadfruit, or palm. The wood is shaped on the lathe, then layered with natural lacquer to prepare a smooth surface.

What you’ll actually see is slow, deliberate work. The artisan applies several layers of lacquer in various colours — historically black, red, and yellow — allowing each to solidify before the next goes on. The yellow hue was derived from Fashurisseyo, a Maldivian herbal medicine, while the red colour was achieved using a substance called Uguli. Black pigments are obtained by heating a ceramic tile with an oil lantern and collecting the resulting black tar. In recent times, some artisans have chosen to use oil colours due to their wider range of options and easy accessibility.

The carving and polishing stage

Once the lacquer coating is complete, the artisan uses a sharp implement to carve or etch intricate designs — often without prior planning — revealing the vibrant underlying layers in a technique known as Laa Negun. The designs primarily feature floral motifs, exhibiting a slight abstract quality and deviating from native Maldivian flora, potentially inspired by patterns observed in Chinese ceramics. After carving, the surface is polished using dried coconut leaves or dried banana leaves, depending on the artisan’s preference.

What gets made

Traditionally, lacquer work was used to decorate wooden containers for spices and jewellery, walking sticks, bowls, ornamental boxes gifted during weddings, and decorative items for mosques and homes. Today, artisans still produce these items, and they serve as popular souvenirs and cultural symbols for visitors. The President of Maldives has presented a traditional wooden vase, crafted using the esteemed Liye-Laa-Jehun technique, as a gift to the Prime Minister of India. If you’re looking to buy, expect to pay more for pieces with multiple colour layers and fine carving — those take days to complete.

Practical planning for a lacquer work visit

Getting to Thulhaadhoo requires some planning, but the logistics are straightforward once you know the options.

Domestic flights from Male to Dharavandhoo run several times daily. From the airstrip, speedboats to Thulhaadhoo are easy to arrange through local guesthouses. If you’re staying at a resort in Baa Atoll, ask the concierge about arranging a visit — some resorts include cultural excursions in their activity programmes.

Best time to visit

The dry season (November to April) is the most comfortable time to visit any island in Baa Atoll, but the workshops operate year-round. The craft itself is indoor work, so rain doesn’t stop it — but boat transfers can be cancelled in rough weather during the wet season (May to October). If you’re visiting during the wet season, build in a buffer day.

Costs and local friction

There is no entry fee to watch artisans work. Purchasing a piece directly from the maker is expected if you spend significant time in the workshop — prices vary widely depending on size, complexity, and number of colour layers. A small bowl might cost around 200–400 Maldivian Rufiyaa (£10–20), while a large carved vase can run several thousand Rufiyaa. Cash is essential; there are no card facilities on Thulhaadhoo.

On the ground: what to know before you go

Packing and preparation

Thulhaadhoo is a local island, not a resort island. Dress modestly — shoulders and knees covered — especially if you plan to enter any homes or workshops. Sun protection is essential for the boat ride and the walk across the island. A reef-safe mineral sunscreen is a good choice, given the marine environment you’ll cross to get there. Bring water and snacks; there is one small shop on the island, but selection is limited.

Local etiquette

Ask before taking photographs. Some artisans are happy to be filmed; others prefer not to be distracted while working. If you’re invited into a family compound, remove your shoes at the entrance. A simple “Shukuriyaa” (thank you) goes a long way. For more on local customs, read our guide to Maldivian etiquette for travellers.

The challenge of preservation

Like many traditional crafts, Liyelaa Jehun faces the challenge of survival in a modern economy. With fewer young artisans learning the skill, there is a risk of losing this craft. Efforts by cultural organisations and local artisans are helping to keep it alive, but the numbers are stark: Thulhaadhoo is the only island where the craft is still actively practised. The knowledge is held within a handful of families, and without deliberate transmission to the next generation, it could disappear within a few decades.

Thulhaadhoo visitor questions

How long does it take to make a lacquered bowl?

A small bowl with two or three colour layers and simple carving takes about two to three days, including drying time between coats. More complex pieces with multiple colours and fine detail can take a week or longer. The drying time between layers is what stretches the process out.

Can I buy lacquer work outside Thulhaadhoo?

Yes, but most pieces sold in Male souvenir shops are mass-produced or imported. Authentic Thulhaadhoo lacquer work is noticeably heavier, has sharper colour transitions at the carved edges, and often carries a small maker’s mark. If you want the real thing, buy directly from the artisan on the island.

Is lacquer work suitable as a gift?

Absolutely — lacquered items are traditionally given as wedding gifts in the Maldives and are considered a mark of Maldivian artistry and heritage. A small bowl or jewellery box makes a meaningful, portable souvenir. Just wrap it carefully; the lacquer surface can scratch if knocked against hard objects.

What happens if no artisan is working when I visit?

It happens. The craft is not a daily performance. If nobody is at the lathe, you can still see finished pieces in some family homes — ask around. The island itself is worth a walk: sandy lanes, local houses, and a pace of life that feels a long way from the resort scene. Pair the trip with a visit to nearby outer atoll cultural sites to make the journey worthwhile regardless.

Is the craft dying out?

Yes, and that’s the honest answer. With fewer young artisans learning the skill, there is a real risk of losing this craft. The tension is that tourism creates demand for souvenirs, but the slow, meticulous process doesn’t scale to meet that demand. Buying directly from Thuladhoo’s families is the most direct way to support its survival.

One last thought

The same technique used to decorate beams in 17th-century coral stone mosques is now being kept alive by a handful of families on one small island. That’s not a nostalgic detail — it’s a reminder that the Maldives has a material culture that predates resorts by centuries, and it’s still here if you know where to look. For a deeper dive into the islands’ cultural layers, our piece on Dhivehi storytelling traditions traces another thread of that heritage.

Sources and further reading

Liyelaa Jehun: The Art of Lacquer Work in the Maldives. Dhivehi Raajje, 2023.

Gleaming Traditions: Maldivian Lacquer Work. Pradhanmantri Sangrahalaya, 2024.

Liyela Jehun: Traditional Maldivian Lacquer Work. Maaldif, 2024.