Kalaupapa: History opens its doors again.

On a Thursday morning in late June, about two dozen residents of Molokaʻi gathered at the Pālāʻau State Park trailhead. They weren’t there to hike. They were there to block it — a protest against the National Park Service taking over public tours of Kalaupapa National Historical Park without, they said, any community consultation. The blockade lasted 15 minutes. No arrests were made. But the message landed: the next chapter of access to one of Hawaiʻi’s most restricted places was off to a contested start.

Kalaupapa sits on a remote peninsula on Molokaʻi’s north shore, cut off from the rest of the island by towering sea cliffs. For more than a century, it was a government-mandated isolation settlement for people with Hansen’s disease, commonly known then as leprosy. Today it’s a National Historical Park, but it remains one of the hardest places in Hawaiʻi to visit — by design, by geography, and by law. After a five-year pandemic closure, tours restarted in September 2025. Then, within months, the operator died, the NPS stepped in, protests followed, and everything paused again.

This article covers what happened with the reopening, what a visit actually involves, how the patient-resident system worked, and what comes next for this fragile, significant place. If you’re weighing whether to go — and whether you can — here’s what the research and recent events tell us.

The Protest and the Pause

The protest at the Pālāʻau trailhead wasn’t spontaneous. Walter Ritte, a longtime Molokaʻi activist, organized it. About two dozen residents joined him to block the start of NPS-run tours that were scheduled to begin July 9, 2026, with reservations opening June 26. Ritte told reporters that the community had no voice in how many people would be allowed into Kalaupapa or what changes the NPS was making. “What concerns us is we have no voice in the National Park,” he said.

Keani Rawlins-Fernandez, a Maui County Council member, put it more bluntly: “To me the dangerous thing is these tours were started up without any community consultation.” The NPS responded by announcing a temporary pause of future public tours while reassessing visitor access feasibility. The ranger-led tours that were supposed to debut — $20 per person plus a small processing fee, running Thursdays and Saturdays with a daily cap of 100 visitors — went on hold before a single group descended the trail.

The pause leaves a familiar question hanging over Kalaupapa: what does it actually take to get there?

The Tour Experience

The all-day Kalaupapa Saints Tour cost $21 per person and required hiking up to eight miles on the Kalaupapa Pali Trail. That trail drops roughly 1,700 feet in elevation over narrow, uneven terrain, and conditions are hot, humid, and variable. It’s strenuous — the park service doesn’t sugarcoat that. The visitor cap was reduced to 30 people per day last year, and no one under 16 is allowed to enter the settlement for any reason.

Once you’re on the peninsula, there are no restaurants, shops, or visitor services. You bring everything you need for the day. Privacy rules are strict: you cannot photograph patient-residents or their property without written permission. The other way in is by air — fly-in tours land at Kalaupapa Airport, which sits right on the peninsula. That option avoids the hike but still requires a permit and adherence to the same access rules.

The Patient-Resident System

For decades, public access to Kalaupapa depended entirely on authorization from a living patient-resident. That wasn’t a park service policy — it was federal law. Commercial tour companies on the peninsula must be owned by former patients who live there, and that arrangement stays in place until no more are interested.

Meli Watanuki was that person. A former Hansen’s disease patient who lived in the settlement, she ran Kalaupapa Saints Tours in partnership with Seawind Tours. After the pandemic shut everything down in March 2020, it was Watanuki who restarted commercial tours on September 24, 2025. Demand was immediate — seats sold out fast. “I wanted to create a tour that not only shares the history, but also honors the people who lived it,” she said. “This is my home, my story, and my gift to future generations.”

Watanuki died in May at age 92. Her estate shut down the tours three weeks later. About a week after that, the NPS announced it would launch its own ranger-led tours — the ones that are now paused. Before the pandemic, there had been two patient-owned tour operations. Today there are none.

Future Access and Transition

The situation right now is unsettled. The Hawaii Department of Health has said the Kalaupapa Saints Tour can keep operating through the end of 2026, but the estate isn’t running it. The NPS is working with Watanuki’s estate and other tour operators to find a path forward. A 1995 lease agreement between the park service and the Department of Hawaiian Homelands requires that Native Hawaiians be given the next opportunity to run commercial tours on DHHL-owned park lands. That lease adds another layer to the transition.

Nearly 10,000 acres currently owned by the state Department of Land and Natural Resources are expected to be absorbed by the NPS. And the clock is ticking on the patient-resident era: the last surviving patient is expected to die within about a year. After that, Kalaupapa will become part of Maui County. State policies that have governed the settlement will dissolve, and management will turn over entirely to the National Park Service.

Viewing from Above

For visitors to Molokaʻi who can’t secure a permit or don’t want to commit to the hike, Pālāʻau State Park topside offers a clear view of the Kalaupapa Peninsula from the cliff edge. It’s free, drive-up accessible, and doesn’t require any permit. You won’t set foot in the settlement, but you’ll see the same dramatic geography — the sea cliffs, the peninsula jutting into the Pacific, the sense of isolation that defines the place. It’s not the same as being there, but it’s a meaningful alternative when the doors below are closed.

Access and Permits

Getting into Kalaupapa has always been the hard part, and the current uncertainty makes it harder. Here’s what’s non-negotiable when tours are running: you must be at least 16 years old, you must be on an authorized tour, and you must hold a Kalawao County entry permit issued by the Hawaii Department of Health through your tour operator. The permit is bundled into the reservation — there’s no separate application process for individual visitors.

Hike or Fly

The two ways in are the Kalaupapa Pali Trail (eight miles round-trip, 1,700 feet of elevation change, hot and humid) or a flight into Kalaupapa Airport. The hike is demanding and not recommended for anyone with knee issues, low fitness, or a fear of heights on narrow uneven trails. Fly-in tours cost more but skip the physical toll. Both options require the same permit and age restrictions.

What to Bring

There are no services on the peninsula — no food, no water, no shops. You carry in everything you need for the day, including sun protection, plenty of water, and any snacks or lunch. Sturdy hiking shoes are essential for the trail option. And remember the privacy rules: no photographing residents or their property without written permission.

Current Status

As of the most recent reporting, NPS ranger-led tours are paused while the park service reassesses feasibility. The Kalaupapa Saints Tour permit runs through the end of 2026 but the tour isn’t currently operating. If you’re planning a trip to Molokaʻi specifically to visit Kalaupapa, have a backup plan — Pālāʻau State Park overlook, other Molokaʻi hikes, or shifting your itinerary to another island. Getting to Molokaʻi itself requires an interisland flight, so check our interisland flight comparison for options on getting there.

Before You Go — Kalaupapa

Can I visit Kalaupapa on my own?

No. All visitors must be on an authorized tour with a valid Kalawao County entry permit. Independent access is not allowed.

Why is the minimum age 16?

The age restriction is set by the Hawaii Department of Health as part of the permit system. It applies to everyone, regardless of the tour operator.

Is the hike really that hard?

Yes. Eight miles with 1,700 feet of elevation change on uneven, narrow trail in humid conditions. The park service describes it as strenuous. Plan accordingly or choose the fly-in option.

What happens after the last patient dies?

Kalaupapa will become part of Maui County. State policies that have governed the settlement will dissolve, and the National Park Service will take over full management. The timeline is estimated at about one year from now.

Can I see Kalaupapa without a tour?

Yes — from the Pālāʻau State Park overlook topside. It’s free, requires no permit, and gives you a view of the peninsula from above. It’s a good fallback if tours aren’t running.

History Opens Its Doors, One Step at a Time

Kalaupapa has always been a place apart — isolated by law, by geography, and by the painful history it holds. The recent reopening felt like a turning point, but the protest and pause show that opening those doors is never straightforward. The transition from patient-owned tours to NPS management is still being worked out, and the community’s voice is still finding its place in the process. For now, the peninsula remains what it has always been: a place you can’t just show up to. You have to earn it, wait for it, or settle for the view from above. And maybe that’s fitting — some doors open slowly, and some stories ask for patience before they let you in. For more on traveling in Hawaiʻi with intention and respect, read how to experience Hawaiʻi authentically.

References

Lyte, Brittany. “Protest Delays National Park Service’s Reopening of Kalaupapa Tours.” Honolulu Civil Beat, July 2026. ↗

“Kalaupapa Just Lost What Made Tours Possible — Now What?” Beat of Hawaii, 2026. ↗

“Kalaupapa National Historical Park Prepares to Reopen with Public Hiking Tours.” The Traveler, 2026. ↗

National Park Service. “Kalaupapa National Historical Park — Guided Tours.” ↗

If you’re planning a trip to Molokaʻi and want to make the most of your time, check out our guide to planning a Hawaiʻi vacation on a realistic budget, our comparison of rental car companies in Hawaiʻi for getting around the island, and our picks for family-friendly adventures across the islands — even if Kalaupapa itself isn’t on the itinerary this time.