Hawaii is the undisputed birthplace of surfing, a sport deeply intertwined with the islands’ culture and history. Generations of legendary surfers have carved their names into the annals of wave-riding, mastering the powerful breaks that dot the Hawaiian coastline. From the mellow rollers of Waikiki to the towering swells of Jaws, these iconic spots have witnessed countless moments of innovation, courage, and sheer stoke. This article will explore some of those legendary surfers and the iconic spots where they made history.
North Shore: Pipeline – The Proving Ground
No discussion of Hawaiian surfing legends is complete without mentioning Pipeline (also known as Ehukai Beach Park), on Oahu’s North Shore. This spot, a mere stone’s throw from Sunset Beach, is infamous for its thick, barreling waves that break dangerously close to a shallow reef. Surfing Pipeline requires a unique combination of skill, courage, and local knowledge. It’s not a wave for the faint of heart, regularly putting even the most experienced surfers to the test. The wave is known for breaking in both left and right directions, often called Backdoor Pipeline for a right breaking wave. The wave has been known to break from 2ft all the way to over 20ft.
Legends like Gerry Lopez, known as “Mr. Pipeline,” made their names here. Lopez’s calm, almost meditative approach to riding the tube at Pipeline defined an era of surfing style. His influence can still be felt today, with many surfers emulating his smooth, controlled style in heavy conditions. Then there’s the late Andy Irons, who engaged in epic battles with Kelly Slater at Pipeline, marking some of the most intense and captivating contests in surfing history. His raw power and aggressive style contrasted sharply with Slater’s polished technique, making their head-to-head matchups legendary.
Cost: Access to Ehukai Beach Park is free. However, parking can be a challenge, especially during peak season (November-February). There are a few paid parking lots nearby, typically charging around $10-$20 per day.
Directions: Take Kamehameha Highway (Highway 83) north from Haleiwa towards Pupukea. Ehukai Beach Park (Pipeline) is located between Sunset Beach and the Banzai Pipeline.
Recommendations: If you’re not an experienced surfer, do not attempt to surf Pipeline. Instead, observe the action from the beach and appreciate the skill and bravery of the surfers. Check the surf report diligently before heading out. Sites like Surfline provide detailed forecasts, including wave height, swell direction, and wind conditions.
Sunset Beach: Power and Size
Sunset Beach, also on the North Shore, is another legendary spot known for its powerful waves and big-wave surfing heritage. In contrast to the intense, barreling nature of Pipeline, Sunset offers a more open-faced wave typically known for its long board surfers. This wave breaks further out from shore, requiring surfers to paddle long distances and possess exceptional paddling strength. Sunset is famous for its intimidating size and its ability to hold massive swells. Sunset is known for being a right breaking wave but will sometimes break left.
Surfers like Peter Cole and Jeff Hakman were pioneers at Sunset Beach, pushing the limits of what was possible in big waves. Their fearless charges and innovative techniques paved the way for future generations of big-wave riders. Nowadays big wave surfers like John John Florence and Jamie O’Brien are pushing the sport at this location. Sunset Beach hosts major surfing competitions, including the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, solidifying its status as a premier surfing destination. Watching a big-wave contest at Sunset is an awe-inspiring experience, showcasing the raw power of the ocean and the incredible skill of the athletes.
Cost: Access to Sunset Beach is free. Parking can be limited, especially during contests and large swells. Arrive early to secure a spot.
Directions: Sunset Beach is located on Kamehameha Highway (Highway 83), further north from Pipeline. It’s well-signed and easy to find.
Recommendations: Again, if you’re not experienced in big waves, Sunset Beach is best observed from the shore. Bring binoculars to get a better view of the action. Similar sites like Magicseaweed also provide insightful wave information.
Waimea Bay: The Ultimate Big-Wave Arena
Waimea Bay, just a short drive from Sunset and Pipeline, represents the pinnacle of big-wave surfing. This spot is famous for “The Eddie,” officially known as the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Invitational, a prestigious competition held only when waves reach a minimum of 20 feet. Waimea Bay is often surfed when sizes are over 20ft. When Waimea breaks, it draws crowds from all over the world to witness this spectacle.
Eddie Aikau, a legendary lifeguard and surfer, embodied the spirit of Waimea Bay. He was known for his selfless bravery and his willingness to risk his own life to save others. His legacy lives on through “The Eddie,” which honors his memory and celebrates the courage and skill of big-wave surfers. Surfers like Clyde Aikau (Eddie’s brother) and Bruce Irons made history at Waimea Bay, demonstrating incredible skill and bravery in these challenging conditions.
Cost: Access to Waimea Bay is free. Parking is extremely limited during large swells and “The Eddie” competition. Arrive very early (before sunrise) to have any chance of securing a spot.
Directions: Waimea Bay is located on Kamehameha Highway (Highway 83), between Sunset Beach and Haleiwa. Look for the iconic Waimea Bay sign.
Recommendations: Respect the ocean and the lifeguards. If you’re near the shore, pay attention to the flags and any warnings. During large swells, the shorebreak at Waimea can be dangerous, even for experienced swimmers. Please ensure you have enough water, and other necessities. When the Eddie goes make sure you give yourself enough time to get to waimea.
South Shore: Waikiki – The Cradle of Surfing
While the North Shore grabs headlines with its monstrous waves, Waikiki, on Oahu’s South Shore, holds a special place in surfing history as the birthplace of the sport. The gentle, rolling waves of Waikiki are perfect for beginners and longboarders, offering a forgiving environment to learn and enjoy the art of wave riding. The waves break on top of a soft reef causing very gentle slow waves.
Duke Kahanamoku, the “father of modern surfing,” popularized surfing in Waikiki and around the world. He was an Olympic swimming champion and a true ambassador for the Hawaiian culture. He demonstrated his surfing prowess to the world and taught many how to surf. Many surfers and visitors come back to get in the water at Waikiki. Other legends like Buffalo Keaulana and Rabbit Kekai also hailed from Waikiki, contributing to the area’s rich surfing heritage.
Cost: Renting a surfboard in Waikiki typically costs between $20 and $30 per hour. Surfboard lessons are also available, ranging from $80 to $150 for a private lesson.
Directions: Waikiki is easily accessible from anywhere in Honolulu. Take Kalakaua Avenue towards Diamond Head and look for the beaches.
Recommendations: Take a surf lesson if you’re a beginner. Several surf schools operate along Waikiki Beach, offering instruction for all skill levels. Consider taking an outrigger canoe ride for a unique perspective of Waikiki Beach and the surrounding coastline.
Maui: Jaws (Peahi) – Monster Waves
Moving to the island of Maui, Jaws (also known as Peahi) is another big-wave spot that attracts only the most elite surfers. Located on the north shore of Maui, Jaws is infamous for its colossal waves that can reach heights of 70 feet or more. Surfing Jaws requires specialized equipment, including tow-in surfing techniques, where jet skis tow surfers into the massive waves. The location is also known for its very strong winds, which require special fin set ups for the surfers and safety teams.
Laird Hamilton is arguably the most famous surfer to conquer Jaws. He pioneered tow-in surfing techniques and redefined what was possible in big-wave riding. Surfers like Kai Lenny and Billy Kemper have also dominated Jaws, pushing the boundaries of performance and innovation. Nowadays Jaws is surfed multiple times a year. The wave is one of the biggest wave that can be surfed in the world.
Cost: There’s no direct cost to access Jaws, but you won’t be surfing it without significant investment in equipment (jet skis, specialized surfboards, safety gear) and expertise.
Directions: Jaws is located on the North Shore of Maui, near Peahi. It’s best accessed by four-wheel-drive vehicle and a considerable hike down a cliff. Note that access can be tricky and dangerous. It is best to call a local that can guide you down to the spot.
Recommendations: Unless you’re an experienced big-wave surfer with tow-in experience, Jaws is best observed from a safe distance. Several vantage points along the cliffs offer spectacular views of the wave during big swells.
The Importance of Respect and Local Knowledge
Surfing in Hawaii comes with a deep responsibility to respect the ocean and the local culture. The waves are powerful, the reefs are sharp, and the currents can be treacherous. Therefore, following a few principles and tips can take you a long way:
Respect the Locals: Hawaiian surf breaks are sacred places, and local surfers often have priority. Observe the lineup, wait your turn, and avoid dropping in on other surfers.
Know Your Limits: Don’t attempt to surf waves that are beyond your skill level. Be honest about your abilities and choose spots that are appropriate for your experience.
Heed Warnings: Pay attention to lifeguard warnings and flags. Red flags indicate dangerous conditions, and it’s best to stay out of the water.
Protect the Environment: Avoid stepping on the reef, polluting the water, and disturbing marine life. Leave the beach cleaner than you found it.
Learn About Hawaiian Culture: Take the time to learn about the history of surfing and its significance in Hawaiian culture. Respect the traditions and customs of the islands.
Other Notable Surf Spots
While the spots mentioned above are some of the most famous, Hawaii has many other incredible surf breaks. Here are a few more to consider:
Haleiwa: A popular spot on the North Shore, known for its consistent waves and beginner-friendly conditions.
Laniakea: Another North Shore gem, known for its mellow, longboarding waves and abundant sea turtles. It is a turtle sanctuary.
Canoes: This Waikiki break is very gentle and great for first time surfers.
Honolua Bay: A sheltered bay on Maui’s west coast, offering long, glassy waves during the winter months.
Poipu Beach: On Kauai’s south shore, offers a variety of waves suitable for all skill levels.
FAQ Section
What is the best time of year to surf in Hawaii?
The winter months (November-February) are generally considered the best time for experienced surfers, as the North Shore experiences large swells. The summer months (May-September) offer calmer conditions and are ideal for beginners, particularly on the South Shore.
Do I need a wetsuit to surf in Hawaii?
Generally, no. The water temperature in Hawaii is warm year-round, typically ranging from 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. However, some surfers may prefer to wear a rash guard or a thin wetsuit top for sun protection.
Where can I rent a surfboard in Hawaii?
Surfboard rentals are readily available at most beaches and surf shops throughout the islands. Waikiki, Haleiwa, and Lahaina (Maui) are particularly popular spots for finding rentals.
Are there any dangers I should be aware of while surfing in Hawaii?
Yes. The most common dangers include strong currents, sharp reefs, and potentially dangerous marine life (such as sharks and jellyfish). It’s crucial to assess the conditions before entering the water and to swim or surf with a buddy.
How do I show respect to local surfers?
Observe the lineup, wait your turn, and avoid dropping in on other surfers. Be friendly and courteous, and acknowledge the local surfers who have priority at the break. Respect the local culture and traditions.
References
Warshaw, Matt. The Encyclopedia of Surfing. Harcourt, 2003.
Kampion, Drew. Stoked: A History of Surf Culture. Gibbs Smith, 2003.
Young, Nat. The History of Surfing. Palm Beach Press, 2010.
Ready to experience the magic of Hawaiian waves? Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting out, there’s a break waiting for you in the Aloha State. But remember, respect the ocean, respect the locals, and always surf within your ability. Book your trip, grab a board, and make your own history on the iconic waves of Hawaii. Start planning your Hawaiian surf adventure today!
