Molokai, often called the “Most Hawaiian” island, offers a unique travel experience, starkly contrasting with the bustling tourist hubs of Oahu, Maui, and Kauai. Here, life moves at a slower pace, deeply rooted in Hawaiian traditions and a profound connection to the ‘aina (land). It’s a journey back in time, where you can witness a more authentic side of Hawaii, far removed from the commercialism and crowds. This article unveils must-see spots, practical tips, and essential knowledge for an unforgettable Molokai adventure.
Getting to Molokai: A Choice of Pathways
Reaching Molokai is an experience in itself. You have two primary options: by air or by ferry. Flying is typically the quicker and more common choice. Both Mokulele Airlines and Southern Airways Express offer frequent flights from Honolulu (HNL) and other Hawaiian islands to Molokai Airport (MKK) in Ho’olehua. Flight durations are short, usually under 30 minutes from Honolulu, making it a convenient option. Prices vary depending on the time of year, but expect to pay around $70-$150 each way. Book in advance, especially during peak season, to secure the best rates.
Alternatively, the Maui-Molokai Ferry used to provide passenger services from Lahaina, Maui, but unfortunately, the ferry service has been suspended indefinitely until further notice. It’s always a good idea to check with the ferry company or local sources for the most up-to-date information.
Exploring Kaunakakai Town: The Heart of Molokai
Kaunakakai is Molokai’s main town, a charmingly laid-back place that epitomizes the island’s slow pace. Stroll down Ala Malama Avenue, the main street, and you’ll find a handful of local shops, restaurants, and the island’s only movie theater. Don’t expect high-end boutiques or chain stores; instead, embrace the local vibe and browse the small grocery stores for fresh produce and local snacks. A must-stop is Kanemitsu’s Bakery, famous for its “hot bread,” a warm, doughy loaf served late at night with various fillings. The line can be long, but the experience is a Molokai tradition. Prices for hot bread range from $8-$15, depending on your chosen filling.
For lunch, try Molokai Drive Inn for some ono (delicious) local plate lunches. This no-frills eatery serves up generous portions of kalua pig, laulau, and other Hawaiian favorites at very reasonable prices (around $10-$15 per plate). Grab a picnic table and enjoy your meal while soaking in the relaxed atmosphere of Kaunakakai.
Halawa Valley: A Journey to Paradise
Halawa Valley, located at the eastern end of Molokai, is a truly magical place. This lush, remote valley is home to Moaula Falls, a magnificent waterfall cascading into a refreshing pool. Getting there is part of the adventure. The drive along Kamehameha V Highway (Highway 450) is incredibly scenic, but also winding and narrow in places. The road ends at Halawa Beach Park, where you’ll need to hike to the falls.
The hike to Moaula Falls is about 4 miles roundtrip and takes approximately 2-3 hours, depending on your pace. It’s essential to go with a guided tour, as the trail crosses private land and can be challenging to navigate independently. Several local guides, like Greg Solatorio from Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike, offer tours that not only take you to the falls but also share the history and cultural significance of the valley. Tour prices typically range from $75 to $125 per person and often include transportation from Kaunakakai. This isn’t just a hike; it’s an immersive cultural experience. Remember to wear sturdy shoes, bring plenty of water, and be prepared to get muddy.
Kalaupapa National Historical Park: A Story of Resilience
Kalaupapa National Historical Park is a poignant reminder of Hawaii’s past. From 1866 to 1969, this isolated peninsula served as a settlement for people afflicted with Hansen’s disease (leprosy). Today, it’s a place of reflection and remembrance. Getting to Kalaupapa requires either flying on a small nine-passenger plane with Makani Kai Air or hiking down a steep, 3.5-mile trail. Hiking requires a permit and is usually done in conjunction with a mule ride tour.
Most visitors opt for the mule ride with Kalaupapa Mule Tour. The mule ride down the cliffs is an experience in itself, offering stunning views of the rugged coastline. Once in Kalaupapa, you’ll be guided through the settlement, learning about the history of the community and the lives of those who lived there. The tour typically lasts about 6 hours and costs around $250 per person, including flights. Reservations are essential, often months in advance, due to limited availability.
Visiting Kalaupapa is a deeply moving experience. Out of respect for the residents and the history of the place, visitors are expected to be mindful and respectful. Photography is allowed, but avoid photographing any patients without their explicit permission.
Pala’au State Park: Panoramic Views and Natural Wonders
Pala’au State Park offers breathtaking panoramic views of Molokai’s north shore, including the Kalaupapa peninsula. It’s an easily accessible park, located about 5 miles north of Kaunakakai. The park features several scenic overlooks, picnic areas, and hiking trails, making it a great place for a leisurely afternoon.
One of the park’s highlights is the Phallic Rock, a natural rock formation believed to possess fertility powers. Hawaiian women traditionally visit this site to pray for blessings. Another attraction is the Kalaupapa Lookout, offering stunning views of the peninsula (weather permitting). The park is free to enter and is open daily. Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy the natural beauty of Molokai from this vantage point.
Papohaku Beach Park: One of Hawaii’s Largest Beaches
Papohaku Beach Park, located on Molokai’s west end, boasts one of the largest white-sand beaches in Hawaii. Stretching for approximately 3 miles, this pristine beach offers plenty of space to spread out and enjoy the sun and surf. The water can be rough at times, especially during the winter months, but it’s generally safe for swimming and snorkeling, particularly during the summer. Keep an eye on the lifeguard flags and heed any warnings.
The beach park features picnic tables, restrooms, and showers, making it a comfortable place to spend the day. Bring your own beach chairs, umbrellas, and sunscreen, as there are no rental facilities available. Sunset at Papohaku Beach is a must-see. The colors of the sky reflecting on the sand create a truly magical experience.
Exploring the East End Beaches
While Papohaku gets the attention for size, Molokai’s east end has some smaller, more intimate beaches to explore. These are generally best at low tide when the reef protects the shoreline and creates calmer waters. One of the popular beaches along this stretch is near mile marker 20. Head east from Kaunakakai and you’ll find a variety of spots to stop, relax, and perhaps snorkel (conditions permitting).
Remember that the currents can be strong and there’s limited lifeguard presence, so always exercise caution. But for those seeking solitude and calm waters, these beaches offer a peaceful escape.
Understanding Molokai’s Culture and Respecting the ‘Aina
Traveling to Molokai is about more than just seeing the sights; it’s about experiencing the culture and respecting the “aina” (land). Molokai is a deeply traditional island, and visitors are expected to be mindful of local customs and values. Asking permission before entering private property is essential, as much of the island is privately owned. Dress modestly when visiting churches or cultural sites. Support local businesses and artists whenever possible. Most importantly, be respectful of the land and the ocean. Pack out all your trash, avoid disturbing the natural environment, and be mindful of water conservation.
Engage with the local community by attending cultural events or volunteering with community organizations. Learn a few basic Hawaiian phrases, such as “aloha” (hello), “mahalo” (thank you), and “pono” (righteousness). By showing respect for the culture and the land, you’ll not only have a more enriching travel experience but also contribute to preserving the unique spirit of Molokai.
Where to Stay: Accommodation Options on Molokai
Molokai offers a range of accommodation options, from hotels and condos to vacation rentals and bed-and-breakfasts. However, don’t expect large resorts or luxury hotels. The accommodations here are generally more modest and reflect the island’s laid-back character.
Hotel Molokai is one of the most well-known hotels, offering oceanfront rooms and a relaxed atmosphere. Prices range from $200-$350 per night, depending on the type of room and time of year. Several condo rentals are available in Kaunakakai and on the west end, offering more space and amenities for families or groups. Vacation rentals can be found through websites like Airbnb and VRBO, with prices varying depending on the size and location of the property. For a more personal experience, consider staying at a bed-and-breakfast, where you’ll have the opportunity to interact with local hosts and learn more about the island.
Camping is also an option, but permits are required. Contact the Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) for information on camping locations and permit requirements. Keep in mind that facilities are limited, so come prepared with all your own supplies.
Navigating Molokai: Rental Cars are Essential
Having a rental car is essential for exploring Molokai. Public transportation is limited, and many of the island’s attractions are located off the beaten path. Several rental car companies operate at Molokai Airport (MKK), including Avis and Budget. It’s highly recommended to reserve your car in advance, especially during peak season, as availability can be limited.
Be aware that some rental car companies restrict driving on certain unpaved roads, particularly on the east end towards Halawa Valley. Check with your rental car company about any restrictions before venturing off the main roads. The roads on Molokai are generally well-maintained, but they can be narrow and winding in places. Drive carefully and be mindful of pedestrians and cyclists.
Gas stations are limited on Molokai, so it’s a good idea to fill up whenever you have the chance. There are a few gas stations in Kaunakakai. Prices are typically higher than on other islands, so factor that into your budget.
Food on Molokai: A Taste of Local Flavors
Molokai’s food scene is all about local flavors and fresh ingredients. Don’t expect to find fancy restaurants or gourmet cuisine. Instead, embrace the simple, authentic food that reflects the island’s culture.
As mentioned earlier, Kanemitsu’s Bakery is a must-try for its “hot bread.” For lunch or dinner, try one of the local plate lunch spots, such as Molokai Drive Inn or Hiro’s Ohana Grill, serving up generous portions of kalua pig, laulau, and other Hawaiian favorites. For fresh seafood, check out the local fish markets or try your luck at catching your own. Several charter companies offer fishing trips, providing an opportunity to reel in some of Molokai’s famous fish.
If you’re looking for groceries, there are a few small supermarkets in Kaunakakai, offering a limited selection of fresh produce, meats, and other supplies. The Saturday Market in Kaunakakai is a great place to find locally grown fruits and vegetables, as well as handmade crafts and souvenirs.
Essential Tips for Visiting Molokai
- Book in advance: Flights, accommodation, and rental cars often fill up quickly, especially during peak season.
- Pack appropriately: Bring comfortable shoes for hiking, sunscreen, insect repellent, and a hat.
- Bring cash: Many small businesses on Molokai don’t accept credit cards.
- Respect the culture: Be mindful of local customs and traditions.
- Be prepared for rain: Molokai can be wet, especially on the east end.
- Disconnect and relax: Molokai is a place to slow down and enjoy the natural beauty.
FAQ Section
What is the best time to visit Molokai?
The best time to visit Molokai is during the shoulder seasons (April-May and September-October), when the weather is pleasant and the crowds are smaller. Summer (June-August) can be hot and humid, while winter (November-March) can be rainy.
How much does it cost to visit Molokai?
Molokai is generally more affordable than other Hawaiian islands, but costs can still add up. Expect to spend around $150-$300 per day, per person, depending on your accommodation choices, activities, and dining preferences. This estimate includes flights, accommodation, rental car, food, and activities.
Is Molokai safe for tourists?
Molokai is a very safe island with a low crime rate. However, it’s always wise to take precautions and be aware of your surroundings. Lock your car doors, don’t leave valuables unattended, and avoid walking alone at night in unfamiliar areas.
What should I wear on Molokai?
Casual, comfortable clothing is appropriate for most occasions on Molokai. Pack lightweight shirts, shorts, swimwear, and a light jacket or sweater for cooler evenings. If you plan on hiking, bring sturdy shoes and long pants.
Are there any restaurants with ocean views?
While Molokai doesn’t have many “fancy” restaurants, the Hotel Molokai has a restaurant with a lovely ocean view. Otherwise, pack a picnic and find your own perfect ocean view spot!
References
- Mokulele Airlines Website
- Southern Airways Express Website
- Kalaupapa Mule Tour Website
- Hotel Molokai Website
- Avis Rental Car Website
- Budget Rental Car Website
Ready to experience the real Hawaii? Molokai is waiting to embrace you with its untouched beauty and genuine aloha spirit. Ditch the crowded resorts, leave the tourist traps behind, and embark on an adventure that will connect you with the land and its people in a way you never thought possible. Book your flight, pack your bags, and prepare to be captivated by the magic of Molokai – the “Most Hawaiian” island, where time slows down and memories last a lifetime. Don’t just visit Hawaii; truly experience it.
