My partner and I were planning an escape to the Big Island of Hawai’i, a much-needed break from the everyday. Our trip, spanning from late December into January, would last a glorious 13 days. The itinerary was loosely sketched: eight days soaking up the sun and laid-back vibe of the west side, specifically Kona, followed by five days immersed in the dramatic volcanic landscapes of the east side. We envisioned days filled with the iridescent dance of tropical fish beneath crystal-clear waters, the thrill of exploring hidden depths, invigorating hikes through lush forests, and, of course, the ritualistic pleasure of savoring many cups of Kona coffee. Fresh, vibrant tropical fruit was also high on our culinary priority list. However, one particular adventure kept circling in my mind, a challenge that simultaneously excited and concerned me: summitting Mauna Kea via the Visitor Information Station (VIS) towards the end of our trip. We planned to dive at the beginning of our journey, ensuring a safe interval before considering high-altitude endeavors.
A Familiarity with High Altitudes
Living in Colorado means that high altitudes are a part of my regular rhythm. Hiking, climbing, snowboarding, and skiing are not just hobbies; they are integral to my lifestyle. I’ve spent countless hours in thinner air, my body accustomed to the demands of elevation. This isn’t my first encounter with tropical islands boasting snowy peaks either. Years ago, I worked as a field biologist in Taiwan, an experience that introduced me to the unique juxtaposition of lush, warm lowlands and cold, towering summits. Consequently, I generally don’t worry about altitude sickness or unpredictable weather conditions. My body, I’ve found, tends to adapt well.
The Solo Ascent: A Lingering Question
My primary concern, however, was the prospect of hiking alone. My partner, while equally enthusiastic about our Hawaiian adventure, doesn’t share my affinity for high-altitude treks. Their comfort zone lies closer to sea level, which meant that if I were to attempt Mauna Kea, it would be a solo endeavor. This isolation, combined with the recent onset of menopause, which I acknowledge might subtly shift my energy levels and overall fitness, became a point of contemplation. In Colorado, the standard routes to most summits are bustling with fellow adventurers. There’s a comforting sense of community, even when hiking solo, knowing that others are on the same path. This led me to wonder: Is the Mauna Kea trail typically deserted? Would a solo hike to the summit, especially a few days after diving, be an acceptable risk?
Mauna Kea: The Journey to the Summit and Back
The journey to the summit of Mauna Kea is an experience unlike any other. It begins at the Visitor Information Station (VIS), located at a bracing elevation of approximately 9,200 feet (2,800 meters). The air here already feels crisper, the sunlight more intense, a prelude to the dramatic changes awaiting further up. From the VIS, the unpaved Mauna Kea Summit Trail steadily ascends, a path carved through landscapes that feel almost otherworldly. This isn’t your typical lush Hawaiian hike. Instead, you’re traversing volcanic terrain, a stark, often barren expanse of cinder cones, lava rock, and sparse, hardy vegetation. The trail itself is roughly 6 miles (9.6 kilometers) one-way to the summit from the VIS, making it a 12-mile (19.2-kilometer) round trip. While these distances might not sound daunting to an experienced hiker, the elevation gain is significant, climbing over 4,000 feet (1,200 meters) from the VIS to the summit at 13,803 feet (4,207 meters). This translates to a challenging ascent that tests both physical endurance and mental fortitude.
The trail’s surface can be loose and rocky in places, varying from packed cinder to larger, unstable scree. Trekking poles are highly recommended to aid with stability and reduce impact on your knees, especially during the descent. Planning for the weather is paramount. Even on a seemingly clear day, conditions on Mauna Kea can shift rapidly. Temperatures at the summit can plummet below freezing, even during the day, and high winds are common, capable of making a seemingly pleasant hike feel brutally cold. Layers are not just advisable; they are essential. I would pack a waterproof and windproof outer shell, insulated layers, warm gloves, a hat, and sturdy hiking boots. Sun protection is equally critical at this elevation; the sun’s rays are much more intense, so sunglasses, sunscreen, and a wide-brimmed hat would be non-negotiable.
One of the most profound aspects of the Mauna Kea trail is the solitude. Unlike the bustling trails of Colorado’s popular peaks, Mauna Kea’s summit trail sees significantly fewer hikers. While you are unlikely to be completely alone for the entire duration, long stretches without encountering another soul are quite possible. This solitude can be both a blessing and a challenge. It offers an unparalleled opportunity for contemplation, a deep connection with the stark beauty of the landscape, and a sense of profound accomplishment. However, it also means that self-reliance is paramount. There are no aid stations or regular patrols on the trail. Carrying sufficient water (at least 3-4 liters per person), high-energy snacks, a first-aid kit, and a headlamp (even if you plan to be down before dark, unforeseen delays can occur) is not just good practice; it’s a necessity.
The ascent typically takes anywhere from 4 to 8 hours, depending on individual fitness levels and acclimatization. The descent can be quicker but still demands careful footing, often taking 3 to 5 hours. Starting early in the morning is crucial to allow ample time to complete the hike before sunset, especially given the increased risk of getting lost or injured in the dark. The views from the summit are breathtaking, offering panoramic vistas of the Big Island, the surrounding ocean, and, most famously, a clear view of the astronomical observatories that crown the peak. It’s a humbling experience to stand at such a high point, witnessing the curvature of the Earth and the vastness of the sky.
Navigating Altitude and Physiological Changes
My extensive experience with high altitudes in Colorado has taught me the importance of acclimatization, even for those who are generally comfortable at elevation. While I wouldn’t consider myself overly worried, the dive earlier in the trip adds a layer of complexity. General guidelines suggest a 24-hour surface interval after multiple dives before ascending to high altitudes, and for serious decompression sickness risk, some sources recommend even longer. We were planning for a few days in between, which should mitigate the immediate risks, but it’s still something to keep in mind. The physiological changes associated with menopause are also a consideration. While I’ve maintained my fitness, I’ve noticed subtle shifts in recovery times and energy levels. These aren’t deterrents, but they reinforce the need for careful self-monitoring, listening intently to my body’s signals, and being prepared to turn back if I feel unwell.
The Mauna Kea Summit Trail is known for being challenging due to its high altitude and exposed nature, but it’s not technically difficult in terms of scrambling or vertical climbing. However, the consistent incline and loose footing demand a good level of cardiovascular fitness and strong legs. Adequate hydration before, during, and after the hike is crucial, as dehydration can exacerbate altitude sickness symptoms. I would also plan to spend at least an hour at the VIS to begin the acclimatization process before starting the hike. This gradual ascent can make a significant difference in how the body handles the extreme elevation.
Considering the solitude of the trail, the potential for rapid weather changes, and the cumulative effects of altitude and physical exertion, certain precautions become even more critical when hiking solo. Carrying a reliable communication device, like a satellite messenger or a fully charged cell phone (though service can be spotty), is a wise safety measure. Informing someone of my exact plans, including my estimated return time, is absolutely essential. While I am comfortable with solo hiking on familiar, well-trafficked trails, the unique environment of Mauna Kea, combined with my post-menopause body and the recent diving activities, makes these preparatory steps even more non-negotiable.
Safety First: Mitigating Risks on the Mountain
The question of whether it’s “too big of a risk” to hike solo revolves around a careful assessment of personal preparedness and external factors. My comfort with solo hiking stems from years of experience in mountainous terrain. I understand the importance of carrying the 10 essentials, knowing how to navigate, and being able to assess and respond to changing conditions. However, Mauna Kea presents a unique set of challenges that warrant extra caution. The extreme altitude, the remote nature of the trail, and the potential for rapid weather shifts mean that self-rescue or assistance arriving quickly might not be feasible.
Before even setting foot on the trail, I would meticulously check the weather forecast for the summit. The conditions at sea level on the Big Island are often a stark contrast to those high up on Mauna Kea. I would also take the time to hydrate thoroughly for several days leading up to the hike. On the day of the hike, I would start early, allowing myself ample time to complete the round trip before dark. This also offers a buffer for any unforeseen delays or if I need to move at a slower pace due to altitude effects.
Throughout the ascent, I would pay close attention to my body. Any signs of acute mountain sickness (AMS) – headache, nausea, dizziness, fatigue – would prompt me to stop, rest, and re-evaluate. Descending is the only cure for AMS, and I am prepared to turn back if necessary. The summit is not worth risking my health or safety. Having a detailed map and compass, in addition to a GPS device or a reliable navigation app on my phone, would also be crucial. While the trail is generally well-defined, visibility can drop quickly in fog or snow, making navigation challenging.
Moreover, the remote nature of the trail means that self-sufficiency is paramount. I would pack enough food and water for a full day, along with extra layers of clothing, a first-aid kit, and an emergency shelter. While the chances of needing an emergency shelter are low, being prepared for the unexpected is a hallmark of responsible solo hiking. Knowing that my partner would be back at a lower elevation on the island, fully aware of my plans and expected return time, would also be a crucial safety net. This ensures that if I were to become overdue, someone would initiate a search or notification process. Ultimately, the decision to undertake a solo hike on Mauna Kea would be a calculated risk based on my extensive experience, careful planning, and a deep respect for the mountain’s power.
FAQs
What is the best time of year to hike Mauna Kea?
The best time to hike Mauna Kea is generally during the dry season, from May to October, when the weather tends to be more stable and snowfall is less likely. However, clear days and good conditions can be found year-round. Always check the summit weather forecast before planning your hike.
Do I need a 4×4 vehicle to reach the Mauna Kea VIS?
No, the Visitor Information Station (VIS) is accessible by any vehicle type via a paved road. However, if you plan to drive beyond the VIS directly to the summit, a 4×4 vehicle is required due to the unpaved, steep, and often rugged road conditions.
How long does it take to hike to the summit of Mauna Kea from the VIS?
The hike from the VIS to the summit is approximately 6 miles (9.6 kilometers) one-way, with an elevation gain of over 4,000 feet (1,200 meters). Most hikers take between 4 to 8 hours for the ascent and 3 to 5 hours for the descent, depending on their fitness level and acclimatization.
Are there any facilities or water sources on the Mauna Kea Summit Trail?
No, there are no facilities, restrooms, or water sources directly on the Summit Trail itself. All necessary supplies, including at least 3-4 liters of water per person, snacks, and a first-aid kit, must be carried with you. Restrooms and water are available at the VIS.
What are the risks associated with hiking Mauna Kea?
The primary risks include acute mountain sickness (AMS) due to the extreme altitude, rapid and unpredictable weather changes (including high winds, freezing temperatures, and snow), and the exposed, remote, and often solitary nature of the trail. Proper acclimatization, preparation, and self-reliance are crucial for a safe hike.
Your Mauna Kea Adventure Awaits!
My decision to hike to the summit of Mauna Kea from the Visitor Information Station came down to a meticulous balance of preparation, respect for the mountain, and a deep understanding of my own capabilities. The Big Island offers an unparalleled blend of vibrant ocean life and dramatic volcanic landscapes, and the chance to stand atop its highest peak, looking out over a sea of clouds, is an experience that promises to be profoundly memorable. The trail, with its stark beauty and challenging elevations, calls to the adventurer in me. If you’re considering a similar journey, let this narrative inspire you to meticulously plan your adventure. Research the conditions, pack wisely, ensure you are acclimatized, and most importantly, listen to your body. Mauna Kea is a formidable peak, and approaching it with humility and thorough preparation will ensure a safer and more rewarding experience. Are you ready to embrace the challenge and witness the breathtaking panoramas from the summit of Mauna Kea?
References List
Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station Guidelines
Wilderness Medical Society Practice Guidelines for the Prevention and Treatment of Acute Altitude Illness
American Academy of Underwater Sciences Standards for Scientific Diving
National Park Service High Altitude Safety Information
Physical Review Letters Journal, relevant to atmospheric conditions at high altitudes
