Poi. It’s more than just a food in Hawai’i; it’s a cultural cornerstone, a symbol of connection to the ‘āina (land), and a unique culinary experience that every visitor should try. This guide dives deep into the world of poi, exploring its significance, different varieties, where to find the best poi on each island, and how to truly appreciate its nuanced flavors.
Poi: A Taste of Hawaiian History
Poi, at its heart, is simple: pounded cooked taro root mixed with water. But within that simplicity lies a history stretching back centuries. The Native Hawaiians cultivated taro (kalo) as their primary staple food. The process of making poi, from planting and harvesting the taro to pounding it into a smooth paste, was imbued with ritual and respect. Families often had their own secret techniques passed down through generations, influencing the texture and taste of their poi.
For Hawaiians, poi wasn’t just sustenance; it was a connection to their ancestors. Taro, according to Hawaiian creation stories, is the elder brother of mankind. This kinship underscores the profound reverence for this plant and its significance in their culture. Eating poi, therefore, is a way of honoring that connection and participating in a living tradition.
Understanding the Nuances of Poi
The taste and texture of poi can vary dramatically, and this is part of its charm. Freshly made poi, often referred to as “sweet poi,” has a subtly sweet flavor that comes from the natural sugars in the taro. As it ages and ferments, it becomes more tart and tangy. This fermentation is a natural process, and the sourness is a sign of live cultures developing, much like in yogurt or sourdough bread.
The consistency of poi also matters. Some prefer a thicker, almost dough-like poi, while others prefer a thinner, more fluid consistency. This is often determined by the amount of water added during the pounding process. Traditional poi is pounded by hand with a stone pounder (pōhaku kuʻi ʻai) on a wooden board (papa kuʻi ʻai), but today, electric poi pounders are also commonly used, particularly for commercial production.
One of the most common ways to categorize poi is by its “day” designation: 1-day poi, 2-day poi, 3-day poi, and so on. This refers to how many days the poi has been fermenting. One-day poi will be the sweetest, and the sourness increases with each passing day. Many locals prefer the tang of 3-day or 4-day poi, while visitors might find the milder sweetness of 1-day or 2-day poi more palatable. Experimenting with different ages is key to finding your personal preference.
Experiencing Poi: More Than Just a Side Dish
Poi is traditionally eaten with the fingers, similar to how one might eat Ethiopian food with injera. This method allows you to truly feel the texture of the poi and control the amount you take with each bite. While using utensils is perfectly acceptable, trying it the traditional way offers a deeper connection to the culture.
Poi is rarely eaten on its own. It’s designed to complement other dishes, acting as a neutral canvas to balance the flavors of salty and savory foods. Traditionally, it’s served with dishes like kalua pig (roasted pork), lomi salmon (salted salmon with tomatoes and onions), and pipikaula (dried beef). The blandness of poi helps to cleanse the palate between bites of these richer foods. For example, the smoky, salty flavor of kalua pig is beautifully offset by the cool, subtle sweetness of freshly made poi.
Beyond traditional accompaniments, poi can also be enjoyed with contemporary dishes. It pairs well with grilled fish, stews, and even poke. The key is to find dishes that offer a contrasting flavor profile that the poi can balance. Think of it like rice – it goes well with virtually anything! But is rice traditional to the culture of Hawai’i? No! So, try it with authentic food.
Finding the Best Poi on Each Island
Each island in Hawai’i offers unique opportunities to experience poi. Here’s a island-by-island breakdown:
O’ahu: A Variety of Options
O’ahu, being the most populous island, offers the widest range of options for finding poi. Here are a few recommendations:
Waiahole Poi Factory: Located on the windward side of O’ahu, near Kaneohe, this is a classic spot for authentic Hawaiian food, including freshly made poi. They often have live Hawaiian music and cultural demonstrations, making it a great place to immerse yourself in the culture. Expect to pay around $5-7 for a small bowl of poi. Getting there requires driving along Kamehameha Highway, enjoying the scenic coastline. Parking can sometimes be limited, especially during peak hours, so be patient. They’re open daily but check their website for specific hours.
Helena’s Hawaiian Food: This humble, no-frills restaurant in Kalihi has been serving up traditional Hawaiian fare for decades and is renowned for its authentic poi. Be prepared for a wait, as it’s a popular spot with locals. Their poi is often served with dishes like kalua pig and short ribs. Prices are very reasonable, with poi costing around $4-6. Helena’s is located in a residential area and can be a bit tricky to find, so use GPS. Parking is limited, and it’s cash-only, so come prepared.
Highway Inn Kaka’ako: This establishment has locations on O’ahu, with one in Kaka’ako and one in Waipahu. A favorite among locals and visitors alike, Highway Inn has been serving authentic cuisine since 1947 with some of the best poi around. Check out their menu here.
Various Farmers Markets: Many farmers markets around O’ahu, especially those on the weekends, will have vendors selling freshly made poi. This is a great way to support local farmers and get a taste of authentic, handcrafted poi. Prices vary, but you can usually find small portions for sampling. Check local listings for farmers market schedules and locations.
Maui: Island Delights
Maui offers a more laid-back experience, and while the poi options might be fewer than on O’ahu, the quality is excellent. Here are some places to try:
Star Noodle: While not exclusively a Hawaiian restaurant, Star Noodle in Lahaina offers a unique take on poi, incorporating it into some of their dishes. This provides a modern twist on a traditional ingredient. Check out the menu here.
Hana Farms Roadside Stand: If you’re driving the Road to Hana, be sure to stop at Hana Farms. They often have fresh poi available, along with other local treats. This is a great way to experience poi in a beautiful, natural setting. Prices are generally reasonable, and you’re supporting local agriculture.
Local Luaus: Many luaus on Maui will feature poi as part of their buffet. This is a convenient way to sample poi along with a variety of other traditional Hawaiian dishes. Prices for luaus vary, but they typically include entertainment and a full meal. Research different luaus to find one that suits your preferences and budget.
Kaua’i: The Garden Isle’s Offerings
Kaua’i, known as the “Garden Isle,” boasts fertile land perfect for growing taro. Here are some spots to find poi on Kaua’i:
Hanalei Taro & Juice Co.: Located in Hanalei, this family-owned business grows their own taro and makes fresh poi daily. They also offer other taro-based products, such as taro burgers and chips. This is a great place to experience poi directly from the source. Prices are reasonable, and the location is picturesque. The location is on a taro farm, offering a unique insight into the process of growing taro.
Various Farmers Markets: Like O’ahu, Kaua’i has several farmers markets where you can find local vendors selling poi. Check local listings for schedules and locations. Look for farmers markets in towns like Kapa’a and Waimea.
The Plantation House Restaurant: This fine-dining establishment actually has poi on the menu and it’s a perfect way to experience it in an elevated setting. Check out the menu here!
Hawai’i Island (Big Island): A Taste of Tradition
The Big Island has a strong connection to Hawaiian traditions, and you can find authentic poi in several locations:
Waipio Valley: While getting into Waipio Valley can be challenging (requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle or a guided tour), it’s home to several taro farms. Some farmers sell poi directly from their farms. This is the most authentic way to experience poi, as you’re buying it directly from the people who grow the taro. Contact local tour operators for information on visiting taro farms in Waipio Valley.
Tex Drive In: Famous for its malasadas, Tex Drive In in Honoka’a also serves poi. This is a convenient stop if you’re exploring the Hamakua Coast. Prices are reasonable, and it’s a popular spot for locals and tourists alike.
Kuhio Grille: Located in Hilo, this establishment features traditional Hawaiian Cuisine and the perfect place to get some poi while on the Big Island. Find more information here.
Beyond the Taste: Respecting the Culture
When trying poi, it’s important to do so with respect for the culture. Remember that poi is more than just food; it’s a symbol of Hawaiian identity and a connection to the past. Here are a few tips:
Learn about the history and significance of poi. Understanding its cultural context will enhance your appreciation for this unique food.
Support local businesses. Buy poi from local farmers or restaurants that are committed to preserving Hawaiian traditions.
Be open to trying different varieties. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different ages and consistencies of poi.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions. If you’re unsure how to eat poi or what to pair it with, ask the server or vendor. They’ll be happy to share their knowledge and recommendations.
Don’t waste poi. Treat it with respect and only take what you can eat.
Making the Most of Your Poi Experience
Here are some practical tips to ensure you have a memorable poi experience:
Go early. Many of the best poi spots sell out quickly, especially on weekends.
Bring cash. Some smaller establishments may not accept credit cards. It is always a good idea to have some cash on hand when traveling throughout Hawai’i.
Be patient. Especially at popular restaurants, there may be a wait. Relax and enjoy the atmosphere.
Consider a food tour. Several food tours on each island will include poi as part of the itinerary. This is a great way to sample poi and learn about other local dishes.
Check online reviews. Before visiting a restaurant, check online reviews to see what other people have said about their poi.
Ask the locals. The best way to find hidden gems is to ask the locals for their recommendations. Often times they’ll tell you places that only locals frequent.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does poi taste like?
The taste of poi varies depending on its age. Freshly made poi is subtly sweet, while older poi is more tart and tangy. The flavor is often described as bland, but this is intentional, as it’s meant to complement other dishes. The taste is subjective and can be an acquired taste, but most people familiar with the flavor say it’s similar to a plain yogurt or taro taste.
How do you eat poi?
Traditionally, poi is eaten with the fingers. Scoop a small amount of poi with your index and middle fingers and use it to gather other foods, such as kalua pig or lomi salmon. You can also use utensils if you prefer.
How do you store poi?
Poi should be refrigerated. Freshly made poi will last for a few days in the refrigerator. As it ages, it will become more sour, but it is still safe to eat.
Is poi healthy?
Poi is a healthy food that is high in carbohydrates, fiber, and vitamins. It is also gluten-free and low in fat. It’s a great source of energy. However, due to its high carbohydrate content, individuals monitoring their blood sugar should consume it in moderation.
Where can I buy poi online?
While some companies may ship poi, it’s generally best to purchase it fresh from a local source in Hawai’i. Shipping poi can be expensive and affect its quality.
Can I make poi at home?
While it’s possible to make poi at home if you don’t live in Hawai’i, finding the right type of taro can be a challenge. It’s best to source fresh taro from an Asian supermarket or a specialty food store before attempting to make some at home.
Is poi vegan and gluten-free?
Yes, poi is naturally vegan and gluten-free, as it is made from taro and water only.
Why is poi important to Hawaiian culture?
Poi is not just food for Hawaiians; it is a staple that connects them to their ancestors through both the food and the creation story, and is a source food and sustenance. This underscores their significance in the culture and daily lives of native Hawaiians.
References
University of Hawai’i Sea Grant College Program.
Amy Brown, Author and Associate Professor, Department of Human Nutrition, University of Hawai’i, Manoa.
Ku’ualoha Ho’omanawanui, Academy of Hawaiian Culture and Language.
Ready to Dive In?
Now that you have a comprehensive guide to poi, it’s time to embark on your own culinary adventure in Hawai’i. Seek out the local spots, embrace the unique flavor, and connect with the rich cultural heritage that poi represents. Don’t be afraid to ask questions, try different varieties, and most importantly, enjoy the experience. Your taste buds (and your understanding of Hawaiian culture) will thank you for it. Aloha, and happy poi tasting!