Forget the luaus and the resort buffets for a minute. Hilo, on the eastern side of the Big Island, is quietly cultivating a food scene that’s authentic, innovative, and intensely local. It’s a place where you can find everything from fresh poke bowls bursting with flavors you’ve never encountered to family-run restaurants serving up generational recipes with a whole lot of aloha. This is where you ditch the crowds and experience the real taste of Hawaii.
A Culinary Journey Begins: Downtown Hilo Delights
Downtown Hilo is a great starting point, a charming mix of historic buildings and vibrant street art that sets the stage for the culinary adventure ahead. Think less Waikiki glam and more old-school Hawaiian charm. Parking can be a bit tricky, especially during peak hours, so be prepared to circle the block or use one of the public parking lots available. Walking around is honestly the best way to soak it all in anyway!
Pineapples Restaurant: A Waterfront Gem
Pineapples Restaurant, right on the waterfront, offers stunning views of Hilo Bay and a menu packed with island favorites with a creative twist. The atmosphere is casual yet upscale, perfect for a relaxed lunch or a romantic dinner. I particularly recommend their fresh catch of the day, prepared with local ingredients. Think macadamia nut-crusted mahi-mahi or seared ahi tuna with a lilikoi (passion fruit) glaze. Expect to spend around $30-50 per person for a satisfying meal, depending on your choices. The cocktails are also noteworthy, featuring tropical fruits and locally distilled spirits.
Hilo Farmers Market: A Feast for the Senses
No trip to Hilo is complete without a visit to the Hilo Farmers Market. This isn’t just about buying produce; it’s an experience. Located at the corner of Kamehameha Avenue and Mamo Street, the market is open every Wednesday and Saturday. But trust me, Saturday is the day to go, that’s when the market is buzzing with the most vendors and the widest variety of goods. Here, you can sample exotic fruits you’ve never even heard of, browse handmade crafts, and, most importantly, indulge in some incredible local food.
I usually start my journey with a fresh juice from one of the vendors. The combinations are endless, but I often go for a blend of pineapple, guava, and ginger. Don’t be afraid to ask for samples – most vendors are happy to let you try before you buy. After juice, I make my way over to the food stalls. You’ll find everything here, from plate lunches to freshly baked pastries. Look for the vendors with the longest lines, as they usually have the best food. Be sure to grab a plate lunch. These typically come with rice, macaroni salad, and your choice of protein. Cost for a plate lunch is likely to be around $10-15. Don’t forget dessert! You can find everything from mochi to haupia pie. The market is also a great place to find unique souvenirs, like locally made jams, honeys, and coffee.
Pro Tip: Bring cash! While some vendors may accept credit cards, cash is still king at the Hilo Farmers Market.
Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill: A Taste of Local Comfort
If you’re looking for something a bit more upscale, Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill is the perfect spot. Their menu features Pacific Rim cuisine with a focus on fresh, local ingredients. Jackie Rey’s is located slightly outside the main downtown area, on Kilauea Avenue. It’s a popular spot, so reservations are highly recommended, especially on weekends. The ambiance is warm and inviting, with a rustic-chic décor.
Their Kalua Pig Quesadillas are a must-try, as is the fresh catch prepared to your liking. The prices are a bit higher than some of the other options on this list, expect to spend around $40-60 per person for dinner, but it’s worth it for the quality of the food and the service. They have a great wine list and some creative cocktails as well. It’s the ideal place for a special occasion dinner or a memorable evening out.
Beyond Downtown: Hidden Gems in Hilo’s Outskirts
Hilo’s culinary delights extend far beyond the downtown area. Venture a little further afield and you’ll discover hidden gems that are worth the drive.
Ken’s House of Pancakes: A Breakfast Institution
Ken’s House of Pancakes is a Hilo institution, famous for its gigantic pancakes and its 24/7 service. This is the kind of place where you can roll in at 3 AM and still get a stack of pancakes the size of your head. It’s a no-frills diner with a classic Hawaiian vibe, located on Kanoelehua Avenue, just a short drive from the airport. Don’t expect fancy décor or gourmet ingredients, and expect a wait if you go during peak times. But do expect generous portions, friendly service, and a taste of old-school Hilo.
The pancakes are obviously the star of the show, and they come in a variety of flavors. I’m partial to the macadamia nut pancakes, but the banana pancakes are also a popular choice. They also serve a full menu of other breakfast and lunch items, including omelets, sandwiches, and plate lunches. Prices are extremely reasonable, making it a great option for a budget-friendly meal. Come hungry!
Miyo’s Japanese Restaurant: Authentic Japanese Flavors
Miyo’s Japanese Restaurant is a local favorite that serves up authentic Japanese cuisine at affordable prices. It’s a small, unassuming restaurant located on Waiānuenue Avenue, not far from Rainbow Falls, that’s consistently packed with locals. The menu is extensive, featuring everything from sushi and sashimi to udon and donburi. The quality of the fish is excellent, and the dishes are prepared with care and attention to detail.
The sushi is a great value, especially the lunch specials. Expect to spend around $20-$30 per person for a satisfying lunch or dinner. It’s a BYOB establishment, so feel free to bring your own beer or wine. Miyo’s is the perfect place to go for a casual, authentic Japanese meal that won’t break the bank.
Two Ladies Kitchen: Mochi Madness
If you have a sweet tooth, you absolutely must visit Two Ladies Kitchen. This small, family-run business is famous for its exquisite mochi, a Japanese rice cake that’s soft, chewy, and incredibly delicious. Two Ladies Kitchen is located on Manono Street, and it’s easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. They’re known for their strawberry mochi, but they have other flavors as well. I suggest going early, as they often sell out of their most popular flavors by late morning. You can buy mochi individually or in boxes, and they make a fantastic gift.
It’s cash only, and it’s not the place to take photographs. Just enjoy the mochi! Expect to pay around $2-3 per piece of mochi, depending on the flavor. It’s a little bit of heaven in every bite.
Venturing Further: Puna’s Culinary Adventures
For a truly unique culinary experience, take a drive down to the Puna district. This is a region known for its lush rainforests, volcanic landscapes, and its counter-culture vibes. The food scene here is just as eclectic and interesting.
Uncle Robert’s Awa Bar and Farmers Market: A Taste of Old Hawaii
Uncle Robert’s Awa Bar and Farmers Market is a must-visit destination in Kalapana. Every Wednesday night, this lively market comes alive with food vendors, live music, and a vibrant community atmosphere. It’s a true taste of old Hawaii, where you can relax, socialize, and enjoy some delicious local food. Awa, pronounced ‘ava, is a traditional Hawaiian drink made from the root of the kava plant. It has a mild sedative effect and is often used in ceremonies and social gatherings.
You’ll find a wide variety of food vendors at Uncle Robert’s, from traditional Hawaiian dishes to international cuisine. Grab a plate lunch, sample some local snacks, and wash it all down with a shell of awa. Remember that it is technically illegal to sell homemade food. Take everything with a grain of salt and enjoy! The atmosphere is festive and welcoming, making it a great place to meet locals and learn about Hawaiian culture. The entire area was destroyed by the Kilauea eruption, and is slowly coming back to life. Bring cash, and expect crowds. It’s an evening you won’t forget!
Pahoa Village: A Step Back in Time
Pahoa Village is a charming town that feels like it’s been frozen in time. The main street is lined with colorful buildings, eclectic shops, and a variety of restaurants. It’s a great place to wander around, soak up the atmosphere, and grab a bite to eat. Pahoa has a great mix of restaurants, from Thai to Italian to Hawaiian. Many utilize locally grown produce from local farms, giving you a true taste of Puna.
Parking can sometimes be challenging in Pahoa, especially during peak hours. Bring cash as some smaller establishments don’t take cards. Take your time, wander into shops, and enjoy the unique atmosphere.
Lava Zone Coffee Shack: Coffee with a View
One hidden gem to seek out is the Lava Zone Coffee Shack. It’s a little outside of Pahoa, close to the new black sand beach where lava entered the ocean in 2018. This tiny coffee shack offers stunning views of the volcanic landscape. They serve locally grown coffee, tea, and light snacks. It’s the perfect place to stop for a caffeine fix and take in the raw beauty of the Puna district. While there, talk story with the owners and learn so much about the region.
Tips for Exploring Hilo’s Food Scene
- Embrace the local culture: Talk to the vendors, ask about the ingredients, and learn about the history of the dishes.
- Be prepared to try new things: Don’t be afraid to step outside your comfort zone and sample some of the more unusual local delicacies.
- Bring cash: Many smaller establishments, especially at the farmers markets, prefer cash transactions.
- Make reservations: If you’re planning to dine at a popular restaurant, especially on weekends, it’s always a good idea to make a reservation.
- Respect the environment: Dispose of your trash properly and be mindful of the fragile ecosystem.
- Be patient: Service in Hawaii can sometimes be a bit slower than what you’re used to. Relax, enjoy the atmosphere, and embrace the slower pace of life.
Cost Considerations
Hilo’s food scene offers something for every budget. You can enjoy a delicious and affordable meal at the farmers market or at one of the many plate lunch establishments. Mid-range restaurants will typically cost around $30-50 per person, while upscale dining experiences can range from $50-80 or more. Keep in mind that prices can vary depending on the season and the availability of local ingredients.
Getting Around
Hilo is a relatively small town, and getting around is fairly easy. Renting a car is the best way to explore the surrounding areas, especially if you’re planning to visit the Puna district. Public transportation is available, but it’s not very frequent or reliable. Taxis and ride-sharing services are also available, but they can be expensive. Walking is a great way to explore downtown Hilo, and it allows you to discover hidden gems that you might otherwise miss.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the best time to visit Hilo?
The best time to visit Hilo is during the shoulder seasons (April-May and September-October), when the weather is pleasant and the crowds are smaller. The summer months (June-August) can be hot and humid, while the winter months (November-March) can be rainy. However, Hilo is beautiful year-round, so any time is a good time to visit.
What is a plate lunch?
A plate lunch is a staple of Hawaiian cuisine. It typically consists of rice, macaroni salad, and a protein, such as kalua pig, chicken katsu, or teriyaki beef. It’s a quick, affordable, and satisfying meal.
What is poi?
Poi is a traditional Hawaiian dish made from the pounded taro root. It has a slightly sour taste and a sticky texture. It’s often eaten with kalua pig or other Hawaiian dishes.
What are some must-try Hawaiian foods?
Some must-try Hawaiian foods include kalua pig, poke, laulau, haupia pie, and shave ice.
Are there vegetarian or vegan options in Hilo?
Yes, there are several vegetarian and vegan options in Hilo. Many restaurants offer vegetarian versions of traditional Hawaiian dishes, and there are also dedicated vegan and vegetarian restaurants.
Is it safe to drink the tap water in Hilo?
Yes, the tap water in Hilo is generally safe to drink. However, some people prefer to drink bottled water.
References
- Hilo Farmers Market Official Website
- Pineapples Restaurant Menu
- Ken’s House of Pancakes History
So, are you ready to ditch the tourist traps and embark on a culinary adventure in Hilo? Come explore the vibrant flavors, meet the passionate chefs, and discover the hidden gems that make Hilo’s food scene so special. It’s an experience that will tantalize your taste buds, nourish your soul, and leave you with memories to last a lifetime. Start planning your Hilo culinary journey today and get ready for a truly authentic taste of Hawaii!
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