Beyond the Beach: Explore Hawaii’s Upcountry Culinary Scene

Forget the Mai Tais and luaus; Hawaii’s culinary adventure extends far beyond its pristine beaches. Tucked away in the volcanic slopes, misty valleys, and rolling farmlands of the “Upcountry,” you’ll discover a dining scene that’s as unique and diverse as the islands themselves. It’s a journey into local flavors, farm-to-table experiences, and a sense of community that will redefine your Hawaiian vacation.

Upcountry: A Culinary Canvas

What exactly do we mean by “Upcountry”? Think of it as the higher elevation areas of the Hawaiian islands, primarily on Maui and the Big Island. In Maui, that encompasses places like Kula, Makawao, Pukalani, and Ulupalakua. On the Big Island, you’ll find it around Waimea (Kamuela), Volcano, and parts of Kona. These regions boast cooler temperatures, rich volcanic soil, and a thriving agricultural scene, all of which contribute to the exceptional food you’ll find there. Forget the tourist traps – this is where the locals eat, and where you can truly taste the authentic flavors of Hawaii.

The Kula Experience: Maui’s Agricultural Heart

Kula, on Maui, is arguably the star of the Upcountry culinary scene. Imagine driving along the winding Crater Road, surrounded by fields of lavender, strawberries, and onions, with panoramic views that stretch all the way to the West Maui Mountains. The air is crisp, the light is golden, and the food is simply divine.

Kula Lodge Restaurant: This mountaintop restaurant offers breathtaking views and a menu that perfectly blends classic Hawaiian cuisine with modern techniques. Its rustic charm, complete with a crackling fireplace, makes it a perfect spot for a romantic dinner or a cozy lunch after exploring Haleakala National Park. The price range is generally $30-$60 per entree. I recommend booking your table in advance, especially for sunset views. Their pan-seared opakapaka (Hawaiian pink snapper) is a must-try, showcasing the freshness of local seafood. To get there, simply follow the Haleakala Highway (Highway 37) and turn onto Kula Lodge Drive. The lodge is well-signposted.

Kula Bistro: A more casual, family-friendly alternative to Kula Lodge, Kula Bistro offers equally impressive views and delicious food. They’re known for their wood-fired pizzas, pasta dishes, and fresh salads. The atmosphere is relaxed and inviting, with indoor and outdoor seating options. Perfect for a light lunch or dinner. Prices are moderate, ranging from $15-35 per entree. My kids loved their pizza, and my wife raved about the salad with Kula strawberries. Getting there is easy, as it’s located centrally in Kula on Kekaulike Avenue (Highway 377), right across from the Kula Hardware store.

MauiWine at Ulupalakua Ranch: Beyond the incredible views and history of the ranch itself, MauiWine offers a truly unique tasting experience. They are very well known for their unique pineapple wines made with Maui Gold pineapples. Their tasting room offers flights showcasing their range of wines, as well as a delightful bistro with light bites designed to complement the wines. You can order cheese plates, charcuterie boards, and small salads that will tantalize your taste buds. Prices for wine flights range from roughly $20-$40, while the bistro menu is reasonably priced. I strongly recommend booking your tasting in advance, as it gets busy. Their specialty pineapple sparkling wine is something you won’t find anywhere else. It’s a memorable experience that combines history, beautiful landscapes, and unique winemaking.

Ali’i Kula Lavender Farm: While not strictly a dining experience, Ali’i Kula Lavender Farm offers lavender-themed treats and beverages that make it a worthy culinary stop. Sip on lavender tea, sample lavender scones, or indulge in lavender ice cream while wandering through the fragrant fields. It’s a sensory experience that’s both calming and delicious. Lavender tea and scones are a steal at around $5-10. The gift shop also offers an array of lavender-infused culinary products, from honey to spices, perfect for taking a piece of Upcountry flavor home with you. To get here from Kula Marketplace, head Northwest on Kula Highway for approximately 3.5 miles. Check their website for their opening hours.

Makawao: A Paniolo Town with Global Flavors

Just a short drive from Kula, Makawao is a charming paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) town with a surprisingly diverse culinary scene. Here, you’ll find everything from traditional Hawaiian food to innovative fusion cuisine.

Komoda Store and Bakery: A Makawao institution since 1916, Komoda Store is famous for its stick donuts, cream puffs, and other baked goods. Be prepared to wait in line, especially on weekends, but trust me, it’s worth it! The prices are incredibly reasonable, with most items costing just a few dollars. Their stick donuts are legendary – crispy on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside, and dusted with sugar. It’s located right in the heart of Makawao on Baldwin Avenue. Get there early; they often sell out of popular items.

Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli: A touch of Italy found in the heart of paniolo country. Casanova offers a range of classic Italian dishes made with fresh, local ingredients. The atmosphere is lively and festive, and the wine list is extensive. The restaurant can be quite expensive, with entrees ranging from $30-$60. The deli, however, offers more affordable options like sandwiches and salads. Their homemade pasta is superb, and the tiramisu is heavenly. Plus, they often host live music events. Located on Makawao Avenue, it’s hard to miss.

Polli’s Mexican Restaurant: This family-owned restaurant has been serving up authentic Mexican food in Makawao for decades. Their portions are generous, their prices are reasonable, and their margaritas are strong. It’s a popular favorite among locals, and is the perfect place to relax after a day of hiking or shopping. A casual encounter at Polli’s will generally cost between $15-30 per entree. Don’t leave without trying a mango margarita. It’s located on Makawao Avenue, a few doors down from Casanova.

Big Island’s Upcountry Delights

Moving over to the Big Island, the Upcountry culinary scene takes on a slightly different character, influenced by its vast landscapes, active volcanoes, and unique agricultural practices.

Merriman’s Waimea: Located in the cooler climate of Waimea (Kamuela), Merriman’s is a Big Island institution, celebrated for its commitment to farm-to-table cuisine and its breathtaking views of the Kohala Coast. Their menu features fresh, local seafood, grass-fed beef, and a variety of seasonal vegetables. It’s definitely a splurge, with entrees ranging from $40-$80, but the experience is well worth it. The ambiance is elegant yet relaxed, and the service is impeccable. Reservations are essential, especially for dinner. Their Mai Tai is legendary, and the lilikoi (passion fruit) cheesecake is out of this world. It’s located in the Opelo Plaza in Waimea.

Village Burger : This gem of a restaurant tucked away in Waimea serves up the best burgers on the island– some say in all of Hawaii. What makes their burgers so special? They are made with locally sourced grass-fed beef and produce from local farms. Their menu features a selection of handcrafted burgers, local pupus, gourmet fries, and handcrafted shakes. Prices are very reasonable for this type of quality; expect to pay around $15-25 per person. This is a perfect way to fuel up on the way to or from another Big Island adventure. They are conveniently located on Mamalahoa highway.

Volcano House Restaurant: For a truly unique dining experience, head to Volcano House, located right on the rim of Kilauea volcano. The Rim restaurant offers stunning views of the active caldera, especially at night, while the Uncle George’s Lounge. The menu features both traditional Hawaiian dishes and international cuisine. Dinner at The Rim will cost you around $40-$75 per entree, while dining in Uncle George’s Lounge is the more affordable option. Their kalua pig is excellent, and the lava flow cocktail is a must-try. Reservations are highly recommended, especially if you want a table with a view. Obviously, it’s located within Volcanoes National Park, so you’ll need to pay the park entrance fee.

Kona Coffee Farms: A visit to the Big Island isn’t complete without exploring the Kona coffee region. Many coffee farms offer tours and tastings, allowing you to sample some of the world’s finest coffee and learn about the process from bean to cup. Tours and tastings are usually free. Some farms also have cafes where you can enjoy coffee drinks and light snacks. I recommend going to a smaller, family-run farm for a more personal experience. A Kona coffee ice cream float on a hot day is pure bliss. Kona coffee is definitely where you’ll wake up to the Aloha spirit.

The Farm-to-Table Philosophy

At the heart of the Upcountry culinary scene is a deep commitment to farm-to-table dining. Chefs work closely with local farmers and ranchers to source the freshest, highest-quality ingredients. This not only supports local agriculture but also ensures that the food you’re eating is bursting with flavor and nutrients. You’ll find menus that change seasonally, reflecting the availability of local produce. This dedication to local sourcing is what makes Upcountry dining so special and so authentic.

For example, in many upcountry restaurants, you might see “Kula Onions” listed on the menu. This designates that the restaurant is sourcing their onions from Kula farms, renowned for their sweetness and mild flavor. Look for similar designations for other ingredients, such as “Maui Gold Pineapple” or “Waimea Tomatoes.” Embrace these details; they signifies the culinary experience you are engaging in.

More Than Just Food: The Upcountry Vibe

Upcountry dining isn’t just about the food; it’s about the entire experience. It’s about the slower pace of life, the stunning scenery, and the warm hospitality of the people who live there. It’s about connecting with the land and the culture in a meaningful way. When you dine Upcountry, you’re not just eating a meal; you’re immersing yourself in a unique and authentic part of Hawaii.

Don’t be afraid to strike up a conversation with your server or the restaurant owner. They’re often happy to share stories about the local area, the farmers they work with, and the history of their restaurant. You might even get some insider tips on other hidden gems to explore in the Upcountry. Remember to adhere to the local customs and traditions, and reciprocate their Aloha spirit. Respect for the land is very important to the people that live there, so treat it with reverence.

Driving between restaurants in Upcountry is just as much a part of the adventure. The roads can be winding and narrow, but the views are breathtaking. Be sure to take your time, pull over at scenic overlooks, and soak it all in. Keep an eye out for roadside fruit stands selling fresh produce, homemade jams, and other local treats. These are great spots to support local farmers and sample some unique Hawaiian flavors.

Make sure to plan your trip in advance, as some Upcountry restaurants may have limited hours or be closed on certain days. It’s a good idea to call ahead or check their website to confirm their hours of operation. Also, keep in mind that the weather in Upcountry can be unpredictable. Be prepared for cooler temperatures, especially in the evenings, and bring a light jacket or sweater. Rain is also common, so pack an umbrella or raincoat.

Practical Tips for Planning Your Upcountry Culinary Adventure

Now that you’re ready to dive into the Upcountry dining scene, here are some practical tips to help you plan your culinary adventure:

Rent a Car: Having your own transportation is essential for exploring Upcountry, as public transportation is limited. A SUV is recommended in some areas where roads, typically to get to farms, are better suited to a 4-wheel drive.
Book in Advance: Popular restaurants, especially those with stunning views, can get booked up quickly. Make reservations well in advance, especially if you’re traveling during peak season.
Dress Comfortably: While some Upcountry restaurants are more upscale, the overall vibe is relaxed and casual. Dress comfortably and wear layers, as the weather can be unpredictable.
Bring Cash: Some smaller establishments, like roadside fruit stands, may not accept credit cards. It’s always a good idea to have some cash on hand.
Pace Yourself: There’s so much to see and do in Upcountry that it’s easy to get carried away. Pace yourself and don’t try to cram too much into one day. Allow time to slow down, savor the food, and enjoy the scenery.
Respect the Land: The land in Upcountry is precious and sacred to many. Be mindful of your impact on the environment, and leave no trace behind.
Talk to Locals: Locals are a wealth of information about the best places to eat, the hidden gems to discover, and the local customs to respect. Don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations.

FAQ Section

Here are some frequently asked questions about Upcountry dining in Hawaii:

What is the best time of year to visit Upcountry?

The best time to visit Upcountry is during the shoulder seasons (April-May and September-October), when the weather is pleasant and the crowds are smaller. However, Upcountry is beautiful year-round, so any time is a good time to visit.

Are there vegetarian or vegan options available in Upcountry restaurants?

Yes, most Upcountry restaurants offer vegetarian or vegan options. However, it’s always a good idea to check the menu in advance or call ahead to confirm.

Is Upcountry dining expensive?

Upcountry dining can range from affordable to expensive, depending on the restaurant. There are plenty of casual eateries and cafes that offer reasonably priced meals, as well as upscale restaurants that cater to a more discerning clientele.

Is it safe to drink the tap water in Upcountry?

Tap water in most Upcountry areas is generally safe to drink. However, if you’re concerned, you can always purchase bottled water or bring your own reusable water bottle and fill it up at your hotel or vacation rental.

Are there mosquitoes in Upcountry?

Yes, mosquitoes can be present in Upcountry, especially in wetter areas. It’s a good idea to wear insect repellent, especially in the evenings.

What should I pack for a trip to Upcountry?

Pack comfortable clothing, layers, a light jacket or sweater, an umbrella or raincoat, sunscreen, insect repellent, and comfortable walking shoes.

References

MauiWine Official Website
Kula Lodge Restaurant Official Website
Merriman’s Waimea Official Website
Volcano House Official Website

So, ditch the tourist traps and venture beyond the beach. Experience the true flavors of Hawaii in the enchanting Upcountry, and your Hawaiian vacation will elevate into a meaningful encounter with Aloha. Ready to embark on your Upcountry culinary adventure? Then book your trip, rent a car, make reservations, and prepare to be amazed by the deliciousness that awaits. Your taste buds will thank you!