Lei have been made as long as people have lived on the Hawaiian islands, yet the flowers most visitors encounter—plumeria, jasmine, orchids—are relative newcomers. Plumeria, for instance, originates from Central America and has only thrived in Hawaiʻi since 1860. This article traces the practice from its pre-contact roots through its modern evolution, examining the materials, techniques, and cultural protocols that distinguish a genuine lei from a souvenir. It also covers where to learn the craft, how to choose a lei for a specific occasion, and the conservation challenges facing native plants today.
More than 100 plant taxa in Hawaiʻi are already extinct, and at least 90 percent of the state’s dry forests have been lost to invasive species, wildfires, and urban development.
Lei were not always decorative accessories. Early Polynesian voyagers carried traditions including customs around lei, which were used for religious rituals, worn by chiefs (aliʻi), and believed to be worn by deities (akua) when they assumed human form. The materials—flowers, leaves, shells, seeds, nuts, and feathers—carried specific meanings tied to the islands’ native ecosystems. That connection has frayed over time. French botanist Charles Gaudichaud-Beaupré visited in 1819, and in the century that followed, native plants became harder to find. Lei makers increasingly relied on introduced plants like plumeria and jasmine (pīkake), a shift that reshaped what a “Hawaiian lei” looks like today.
Lei making is a living tradition, not a static craft. The flowers you see at airport stands are often non-native, and many contemporary makers actively avoid using threatened native species like ʻōhiʻa lehua. If you want to understand the practice beyond the souvenir, seek out a workshop or a maker who sources locally and can explain the difference.
Understanding Lei: Materials, Techniques, and the Shift Away from Native Flora
Lei are made of flowers, leaves, nuts, feathers, fruit, seeds, and shells—nearly any natural material can be incorporated. The techniques vary as widely as the materials: twisting, bending, folding, opening, or closing parts of the plant. A single lei might use buds, stems, petals, or leaves, and the choice of technique affects both the appearance and the longevity of the finished piece. Thicker leis, for example, are preferred for graduations or farewells because they hold up better during a full day of wear.
The shift from native to introduced plants is not a footnote—it is central to understanding the craft today. Oʻahu-based lei maker Skye Kaululani’ikeaomalamalama Rhoden notes that it is a common misconception that flowers like plumeria used in iconic leis are native. Hawaiʻi has been called the “Endangered Species Capital of the World,” with more than 200 plant taxa considered to have 50 or fewer individuals remaining in the wild. Makers like Kawaihili Uyeshiro, founder of Ko Kawai Lei, refrain from using ʻōhiʻa lehua to help nurture populations of the threatened plant, which is currently being devastated by a fungal disease known as Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death. Others, like Wileen Ortega of Tita’s Lei Loke LLC, rarely pick flowers from the mountain, instead sourcing from local growers or growing native flora in their own backyards.
of Hawaiʻi’s dry forests have been lost to invasive species, wildfires, and urban development, directly impacting the availability of native lei materials.
For visitors, this means the lei you buy at a stand in Chinatown—made from pīkake, tuberose, or orchids—represents a practical adaptation, not a break from tradition. The craft has always evolved with available materials. What matters more than the flower’s origin is the intention behind the giving. As one maker explained when declining payment for a lei, making leis is a way to show aloha done purely from the heart.
Where to Experience Lei Making: Workshops, Vendors, and Cultural Sites
Lei Day and the Politics of Protocol
May 1 marks the 96th Lei Day, a celebration born in 1929 after the toppling of the Hawaiian Kingdom and under U.S. annexation. The Hawaii Territorial Legislature designated specific colors and flowers for each island—Hawaiʻi Island was given the color red (ulaula) and the flower ʻōhiʻa lehua. But Big Island-based entrepreneur Haunani Miyasato says the island colors and flowers were not a traditional Hawaiian idea. Some contemporary practitioners, like Kawaihili Uyeshiro and her classmates at Ke Kula ʻo Nāwahīokalaniʻōpuʻu, will not be recognizing Lei Day on May 1 at all, viewing it as a colonial construct. For visitors, attending Lei Day events offers a window into these ongoing conversations about cultural ownership and authenticity, but it is worth knowing that the celebration is not universally embraced within the Hawaiian community.
Workshops and Makers on Maui and Oʻahu
Britney Alejo-Fishell, founder of Haku Maui, holds lei-making workshops at her boutique in Makawao. These sessions cover basic techniques and the stories behind different flowers, and they provide a structured way to learn without the pressure of a formal class. On Oʻahu, Jill Harunaga makes vibrant, one-of-a-kind lei and started making mini lei to celebrate her children’s milestones with flowers from her yard. Her work is not typically available through a workshop format, but her approach—using what is immediately available—reflects the resourcefulness at the heart of the craft. For a deeper dive, Meleana Estes’ book Lei Aloha: Celebrating the Vibrant Flowers and Lei of Hawaiʻi documents the work of multiple makers and provides context on the cultural significance of specific plants.
Airport and Chinatown Vendors
Since the 1940s, lei vendors have been setting up shop at the Honolulu airport. The tradition of greeting arrivals with a lei dates back further—with the advent of the steamship era in the mid-1800s, lei vendors lined the pier along Aloha Tower. Today, airport stands offer convenience, but the quality and freshness vary. Sophia’s lei business, passed down through three generations, is one of the more reliable options. In Chinatown, lei stands sell gifts made from fresh flowers such as pīkake, tuberose, or orchids. These are often more affordable than airport options and allow you to see the flowers before buying. The limitation: Chinatown vendors operate on variable hours, and some close by early afternoon.
If you are buying a lei at the Honolulu airport, look for vendors near the baggage claim areas on the ground level—the stands in the main terminal tend to have higher turnover and fresher stock. On Oʻahu, Chinatown vendors on Maunakea Street typically have the best selection before 11 a.m.
Practical Planning: Timing, Etiquette, and What to Avoid
Lei are traditionally worn and given as gifts for funerals, graduations, weddings, and birthdays. The occasion determines the style: a single-strand open lei is appropriate for most events, while a closed (haku) lei is more formal and often reserved for weddings or ceremonies. The crown flower, the late Queen Liliʻuokalani’s favorite, is sometimes used in leis for formal occasions, though it is less common today. Stephanotis is often recognized as the Hawaiian wedding flower, but its strong fragrance can be overwhelming in enclosed spaces.
| Occasion | Recommended Lei Style | Common Flowers |
|---|---|---|
| Graduation | Thick, double-stranded | Plumeria, orchid, ti leaf |
| Wedding | Closed (haku) or single-strand open | Stephanotis, crown flower, puakenikeni |
| Funeral | Single-strand, subdued colors | Ti leaf, maile, white plumeria |
| Birthday | Bright, mixed colors | Pīkake, tuberose, crown flower |
When receiving a lei, the protocol is straightforward: lei are placed over recipients’ shoulders, usually followed by a hug and a kiss on the cheek. Never refuse a lei—it is considered disrespectful. If you are allergic to flowers, it is acceptable to wear it briefly and then remove it, but do not hand it back to the giver. When traveling, keep the lei in a plastic bag with a damp paper towel to extend its life, and never wear a lei that you plan to take out of state without checking agricultural restrictions—most fresh flower leis are subject to inspection.
Leis made with ʻōhiʻa lehua are increasingly rare due to Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death, a fungal disease that has killed hundreds of thousands of native trees. If a vendor offers a lei made with ʻōhiʻa lehua, ask where the flowers were sourced. Harvesting from wild populations contributes to the spread of the disease.
On the Ground: Etiquette, Sourcing, and the Ethics of Giving
How to Choose a Lei Maker
The best lei makers are often those who grow their own materials or source from local growers. Puanani Anderson-Fung, a researcher from the University of Hawai’i’s Hawaiian Ethnobotany & Conservation program, notes that her favorite lei is one made by her husband using three strands of green ti leaf and lauaʻe leaves—a reminder that the most meaningful leis are not always the most elaborate. When buying from a vendor, ask where the flowers come from. A maker who can name the grower or the specific garden is likely more connected to the craft than one who cannot.
The Etiquette of Giving and Receiving
Lei are not purchased casually. When giving a lei, present it with both hands and make eye contact. The lei should be placed over the recipient’s head so it rests on their shoulders. If you are giving a lei to someone of higher status—a teacher, a elder, or a chief—it is customary to bow slightly as you place it. When receiving, do not remove the lei in front of the giver. It is also considered poor form to wear a lei that someone else has given you to a different event without permission.
- Ask vendors where their flowers come from—makers who grow or source locally are more likely to use sustainable practices.
- Never refuse a lei, and never remove it in front of the person who gave it to you.
- If you want to learn the craft, book a workshop with a known maker like Britney Alejo-Fishell on Maui rather than relying on hotel activities.
Frequently Asked Questions About Lei in Hawaiʻi
Can I take a lei home with me from Hawaiʻi?
Fresh flower leis are subject to agricultural inspection when leaving the state. Most commercial leis made with plumeria, orchid, or ti leaf are allowed, but leis containing soil or certain native plants may be confiscated. The safest option is to wear the lei during your flight and leave it in Hawaiʻi.
Dried or artificial leis are not restricted and make a practical souvenir. Some makers, like those featured in Meleana Estes’ book Lei Aloha, sell dried versions that retain the shape and color of the original flowers without the agricultural risk.
What is the difference between a kui lei and a haku lei?
A kui lei is strung—flowers are pierced and threaded onto a cord, creating an open, flexible strand. A haku lei is braided or woven, with flowers and leaves incorporated into a base of ti leaf or other fibrous material. Haku leis are more structured and last longer, but they are also more labor-intensive and expensive.
For a first-time buyer, a kui lei is the more practical choice. It is lighter, easier to wear, and less likely to fall apart during a day of activities. Haku leis are better reserved for formal events where the lei will not be subjected to much movement.
Is it disrespectful to wear a lei if I am not Hawaiian?
No, but context matters. Receiving a lei as a gift is always appropriate—refusing one is the disrespectful act. Wearing a lei you bought for yourself is less common but not offensive, provided you understand the significance of the flowers and the occasion. The tension arises when leis are treated as costume accessories rather than meaningful gifts.
If you are attending a luau or a cultural event, wearing a lei given to you at the event is fine. Wearing a lei you bought at a souvenir shop to a casual dinner, however, may read as performative. Let the occasion guide your choice.
Why are some leis so expensive?
Price reflects labor, material scarcity, and skill. A single haku lei can take two to three hours to complete, and the flowers used—particularly native species like ʻōhiʻa lehua or maile—are increasingly difficult to source. Leis made with imported flowers like plumeria are cheaper because the materials are abundant and the labor is less intensive.
The tradeoff is longevity. A cheap lei made with plumeria may wilt within a day, while a well-made ti leaf or maile lei can last a week with proper care. If you want a lei that will survive a multi-island trip, pay for quality materials and construction.
What should I do with a lei after I receive it?
Wear it for the duration of the event or occasion. After that, you can hang it to dry in a cool, dark place—many people keep dried leis as mementos. If the lei is made with biodegradable materials like ti leaf or flowers, it can be returned to the earth by burying it or placing it at the base of a tree.
Never throw a lei in the trash. In Hawaiian tradition, discarding a lei carelessly is seen as a sign of disrespect, both to the giver and to the plants that were used to make it. If you cannot keep it, find a way to return it to the land.
Closing
The tension between tradition and adaptation runs through every strand of a lei. The flowers may have changed—plumeria from Central America, jasmine from Asia—but the act of giving remains rooted in the same principle that guided early Polynesian voyagers: a gift offered without expectation, made from what the land provides. That continuity, more than any specific flower or technique, is what makes the practice worth understanding. For a deeper look at how these values extend beyond lei making, the concept of ʻohana and its role in daily Hawaiian life offers a natural next step.
Sources and further reading
Lei Day in Hawaiʻi: native plants, history, and the politics of tradition. National Geographic, 2025.
The endearing art of lei making in Hawaiʻi. HAWAIʻI Magazine, 2024.
The cultural richness of lei making. Ke Alakaʻi, Brigham Young University–Hawaiʻi, 2024.
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