Kapa, the Hawaiian bark cloth, is far more than just fabric. It’s a tangible connection to the past, a living art form that embodies the ingenuity, skill, and spiritual beliefs of the Hawaiian people. From the meticulous cultivation of wauke (paper mulberry) to the rhythmic beating of wooden implements, every step in kapa making is infused with cultural significance and a deep respect for the natural world.
The Heart of Kapa: Wauke and Other Plants
The journey of kapa begins with the wauke tree, also known as the paper mulberry. This wasn’t native to Hawaii; ancient Polynesian voyagers brought it with them, recognizing its potential. Cultivating wauke was an art in itself. The trees were carefully nurtured, often in lo’i (irrigated terraces), and regularly pruned to encourage long, straight shoots ideal for kapa production. Unlike cotton or linen, kapa isn’t woven. Instead, the inner bark of wauke is stripped, prepared, and then felted together through a process of beating.
While wauke was the primary material for most kapa, other plants were sometimes incorporated to add strength, texture, or variations in color. Māmaki, a relative of the nettle family, was frequently blended with wauke, particularly for heavier kapa. The bark of ʻulu (breadfruit) could also be used, although it was less common. Even the sap of certain trees was utilized as glue or dye.
From Tree to Textile: The Kapa Making Process
Let’s walk through the steps involved in creating kapa. Imagine yourself alongside the kapa makers, learning the ancient techniques:
- Stripping and Soaking: First, mature wauke branches were harvested. The outer bark was carefully scraped away, leaving the smooth, pliable inner bark. This inner bark was then soaked in water to soften it and make it more workable.
- Beating: This is where the magic really happens. The soaked strips of bark are laid out and beaten with wooden beaters, called iʻe kuku. These beaters weren’t just simple tools; they were often crafted with intricate designs and considered family heirlooms. The beating process flattened the bark, spread it out, and most importantly, felted the fibers together, creating a cohesive sheet. The longer and more meticulously the bark was beaten, the finer and stronger the kapa became.
- Felting and Layering: Several layers of beaten bark were often combined to create thicker, more durable kapa. These layers were adhered to each other through continued beating and sometimes with the help of a natural adhesive made from plant sap.
- Drying: The newly formed kapa was then laid out in the sun to dry. This could take several days, depending on the weather.
- Decorating: Once dried, the kapa was ready to be decorated. This was often done using stamps carved from bamboo or gourds, dipped in natural dyes.
The iʻe kuku deserves special mention. These beaters came in various sizes and shapes, each designed for a specific purpose. Some were smooth for initial flattening, while others had grooves and ridges that created distinctive patterns on the kapa’s surface. The sound of the beaters, a rhythmic thwack-thwack-thwack, was a familiar sound in Hawaiian villages. You can find examples of these beaters in museums like the Bishop Museum in Honolulu. Examining these tools gives you a real appreciation for the artistry and skill involved.
The Rainbow of Kapa: Natural Dyes and Decoration
Kapa wasn’t just about texture; it was also about color. Dyes were derived entirely from natural sources, showcasing the Hawaiians’ deep understanding of their environment. Here’s a glimpse into the palette of kapa:
- Yellow: ʻŌlena (turmeric) provided a vibrant yellow.
- Red: ʻAlaea (red clay) mixed with plant juices created various shades of red. The noni fruit also produces a reddish-brown dye.
- Black: Charred plants, mud, or even the ink of the heʻe (octopus) were used to create black dyes.
- Brown: Various barks and roots yielded different shades of brown.
The process of dyeing was meticulous. The kapa was often soaked in a mordant (a substance that helps the dye adhere to the fabric) before being immersed in the dye bath. Multiple applications of dye were common to achieve the desired intensity of color. The patterns on kapa were just as important as the colors. Geometric designs, plant motifs, and even representations of gods and ancestors were stamped or painted onto the cloth. The symbolism varied depending on the intended use of the kapa.
For example, a kapa worn by a chief might feature designs that reflected his rank and lineage, while a kapa used for religious ceremonies might be adorned with images of deities. The patterns were often applied using carved bamboo stamps or freehand painting. Some of the most elaborate kapa, like the lei kapa (kapa banners), were true works of art, taking months to complete.
Kapa in Hawaiian Society: More Than Just Clothing
Kapa played a central role in the daily lives of the Hawaiian people. It was used for everything from clothing and bedding to ceremonial objects and even writing surfaces. Different types of kapa were made for different purposes, each with its own specific characteristics.
- Clothing: The most common use of kapa was for clothing. Men wore loincloths (malo) made of kapa, while women wore skirts (pāʻū). The quality and decoration of the kapa reflected the wearer’s social status.
- Bedding: Kapa was used to create comfortable and warm bedding. Multiple layers of kapa were often sewn together to make quilts and blankets.
- Ceremonial Uses: Kapa played a crucial role in religious ceremonies and rituals. Kapa cloths were used to wrap sacred objects and were offered as gifts to the gods.
- Writing: Before the arrival of Western writing systems, Hawaiians used kapa to record genealogies, historical events, and other important information. Dyes made from berries or other natural sources provided the “ink” for these early forms of writing.
Kapa wasn’t simply a material; it was imbued with mana, spiritual power. The process of making kapa was considered a sacred activity, and the finished product was treated with respect. Damaged kapa was never simply discarded; instead, it was often returned to the earth in a respectful manner.
The Decline and Revival of Kapa Making
With the arrival of Western missionaries and traders in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, kapa making began to decline. Imported textiles, which were cheaper and easier to produce, gradually replaced kapa as the primary material for clothing and other uses. The traditional knowledge of kapa making was almost lost.
However, in recent decades, there has been a resurgence of interest in kapa making. Dedicated artists and cultural practitioners are working to revive the ancient techniques and ensure that this important part of Hawaiian heritage is preserved for future generations. You can see this revival happening at cultural centers and through workshops offered across the islands. Some artisans are even experimenting with new ways to incorporate kapa into contemporary art forms, blending tradition with innovation.
Experiencing Kapa Today: Where to See and Learn
If you’re traveling to Hawaii and want to learn more about kapa, there are several places where you can see examples of kapa, learn about the kapa making process, and even try your hand at making your own kapa.
- Bishop Museum (Honolulu, Oahu): This museum has an extensive collection of Hawaiian artifacts, including a wide variety of kapa. You can see examples of kapa clothing, bedding, and ceremonial objects, and learn about the history and significance of kapa making. Cost: General admission is around $25 for adults. Directions: Located at 1525 Bernice St, Honolulu, HI 96817.
- Polynesian Cultural Center (Laie, Oahu): The Polynesian Cultural Center offers a variety of cultural demonstrations, including kapa making. You can watch skilled artisans demonstrate the different steps in the kapa making process and learn about the history and cultural significance of kapa. Cost: Admission varies depending on the package, but expect to pay upwards of $80. Directions: Located in Laie, on the north shore of Oahu.
- Various Art Galleries and Craft Fairs: Keep an eye out for local art galleries and craft fairs that feature the works of kapa makers. These are great opportunities to see contemporary examples of kapa art and to meet the artists who are keeping the tradition alive. Prices for kapa art will vary widely depending on the size, complexity, and materials used.
- Kapa Workshops: Several organizations and individuals offer kapa making workshops. These workshops typically last from a few hours to a few days and provide hands-on instruction in the different aspects of kapa making. A quick online search for “kapa making workshop Hawaii” will yield current offerings. Prices range from $50 for a short, introductory class to several hundred dollars for a multi-day intensive. One example to look up is the work of Roen Hufford of Kapa Queen.
When visiting these sites, be sure to ask questions and engage with the artisans. They are passionate about sharing their knowledge and preserving this important cultural tradition. Remember to treat kapa with respect, as it’s more than just a textile; it’s a tangible link to the rich history and culture of Hawaii.
The Cost of Kapa: Appreciating the Labor and Art
It’s important to understand that genuine, traditionally made kapa is not inexpensive. The labor-intensive process, the use of natural materials, and the artistry involved all contribute to its value. When you purchase kapa art or attend a kapa making workshop, you’re not just buying a product or experience; you’re supporting the preservation of a vital cultural tradition and honoring the skills of the kapa makers.
Prices for kapa can range from a few dollars for a small sample to hundreds or even thousands of dollars for a large, intricately decorated piece. Be wary of extremely low prices, as this may indicate that the kapa is not authentic or that it was made using unsustainable practices. Ask the seller about the materials used, the process of making the kapa, and the cultural significance of the designs.
Kapa Today: Contemporary Expressions
The art of kapa is evolving. While traditional techniques are being preserved, contemporary artists are also exploring new ways to incorporate kapa into their work. You might find kapa used in sculpture, jewelry, fashion, and other art forms. This fusion of tradition and innovation is helping to keep kapa relevant in the 21st century and ensuring that its legacy continues to thrive.
One fascinating trend is the use of kapa in contemporary fashion. Designers are incorporating kapa into clothing and accessories, creating unique and stylish pieces that celebrate Hawaiian culture. These designs often blend traditional kapa patterns with modern silhouettes and fabrics, creating a distinctive and eye-catching look.
Tips for Respectful Kapa Appreciation:
Here are a few tips to keep in mind when interacting with kapa, whether you’re viewing it in a museum, purchasing it from an artist, or participating in a workshop:
- Handle with Care: Kapa is a delicate material, so handle it with care. Avoid touching it unnecessarily, and be careful not to snag it on anything.
- Ask Questions: Don’t be afraid to ask questions about the kapa. The artisans are usually happy to share their knowledge and insights.
- Be Respectful of Cultural Protocols: If you’re participating in a kapa making workshop or ceremony, be sure to follow any cultural protocols that are in place. This might include removing your shoes or offering a blessing before beginning your work.
- Support Sustainable Practices: When purchasing kapa, choose vendors who use sustainable practices and who are committed to preserving the environment.
- Learn About the Meanings: Try to learn about the meanings behind the designs and patterns on the kapa. This will deepen your appreciation for the art form and its cultural significance.
FAQ Section:
What is the difference between kapa and tapa?
While both kapa (Hawaiian) and tapa (used in other Polynesian islands) refer to bark cloth, there are some distinctions. The specific plants used, the beating tools, and the decorative techniques can vary from island to island. However, the basic principle of felting bark fibers together remains the same.
How can I care for kapa?
Kapa is a delicate material and should be handled with care. Avoid washing it unless absolutely necessary. If you must wash it, use a mild soap and cold water, and gently hand wash it. Do not put it in the dryer. Instead, lay it flat to dry. Store kapa in a dry, dark place, away from direct sunlight.
Is it okay to buy kapa as a souvenir?
Yes, it is okay to buy kapa as a souvenir, but make sure you are purchasing it from a reputable source that supports sustainable practices and respects the cultural significance of kapa. Be aware of the high cost of authentic kapa due to its labor intensive process.
Can I make kapa at home?
Yes, you can try making kapa at home, but it requires access to the necessary materials (wauke bark, specialized beaters, natural dyes), as well as knowledge of the traditional techniques. Attending a workshop is highly recommended before attempting to make kapa on your own. Start with safe and easily accessible bark for practice first.
How do I know if kapa is authentic?
Authentic kapa is made from natural materials and crafted using traditional techniques. The texture, weight, and patterns will vary depending on the materials and techniques used. Ask the seller about the origin of the kapa and the processes used to create it. If possible, compare it to examples of kapa in museums or cultural centers.
What is the significance of the designs on kapa?
The designs on kapa can have a variety of meanings, depending on the intended use of the kapa and the cultural context. Some designs represent plants, animals, or other natural elements, while others are symbolic representations of gods, ancestors, or historical events. Learning about the meaning of the designs can deepen your appreciation for the art of kapa.
References:
- Kaeppler, Adrienne L. The Fabrics of Hawaii (Non-Printed Bark Cloth). University of Hawaii Press, 2010.
- Buck, Peter H. (Te Rangi Hiroa). Arts and Crafts of Hawaii. Bernice P. Bishop Museum Special Publication 45. Bishop Museum Press, 1957.
- Cox, Halley G., and William Davenport. Hawaiian Sculpture. University of Hawaii Press, 1988.
- Ellis, William. Journal of William Ellis: Narrative of a Tour Through Hawaii, or Owhyhee. Hawaiian Gazette Co., Ltd., 1917.
The art of kapa is a living testament to the ingenuity, creativity, and cultural richness of the Hawaiian people. It is a reminder of the deep connection between humans and the natural world, and a celebration of the enduring power of tradition. This isn’t just about preserving a craft; it is about keeping a culture alive. So, next time you have the opportunity, delve into the world of kapa. Explore its textures, colors, and stories. By doing so, you become part of the ongoing effort to honor and perpetuate this vital legacy. Visit a museum, attend a workshop, or simply take the time to learn more about this remarkable art form. Help keep kapa alive for generations to come!
