Island
Hopper
GUIDES

Tapa Cloth: A Canvas of Hawaiian Heritage

In early Hawaiʻi, the rhythmic thud of wooden beaters striking bark on anvils could be heard long before a village came into view — a soundscape so distinctive that different beating patterns once signaled the approach of a chief or the outbreak of war.

The women who made kapa — Hawaiian barkcloth — turned the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree into fabric for clothing, bedding, burial shrouds, and ceremonial regalia. By the early 1800s, manufactured cloth introduced by European and American traders and missionaries had largely replaced it. Production dwindled. The sound nearly vanished.

Yet kapa did not disappear. A revival rooted in the Hawaiian Renaissance of the 1960s and 70s brought practitioners back to the wauke groves, the soaking pools, and the carved beaters. Today a small but determined network of artists across Hawaiʻi and the mainland United States is re-learning, re-teaching, and re-imagining what kapa can be. This article traces the practice from its material origins through its near-erasure to its current moment — not as a museum artifact, but as a living, contested, evolving art form.

Emily’s Take

Kapa is not a single fixed tradition but a practice shaped by environment, skill, and worldview — and its revival involves real disagreement about how much it should change. What follows is a look at the process, the people, and the unresolved questions at the heart of Hawaiian barkcloth today.

Variant / EraPrimary MaterialPrimary UsesStatus Today
Traditional Hawaiian Kapa (pre-1800)Wauke (paper mulberry); also māmaki, ʻuluClothing (malo, pāʻū), bedding, burial shrouds, ceremonial dress, room dividersNearly ceased by mid-1800s; knowledge held in museum collections and family memory
Contemporary Hawaiian Kapa (1970s–present)Wauke (cultivated and harvested by practitioners)Wall hangings, ceremonial pieces, contemporary garments (hats, scrunchies), art installationsActive revival; practiced by a growing network of artists; acquired by institutions like the Smithsonian NMAI
Pacific Tapa (broader tradition)Paper mulberry, breadfruit, banyan (varies by island group)Clothing, ceremonial exchange, ritual objectsPracticed across Polynesia, Melanesia, and parts of Southeast Asia; each region has distinct techniques

The making of kapa is a months-long process that begins not at the beating bench but in the soil.

From Wauke to Woven Fiber: The Making of Kapa

Kapa begins with the wauke — the paper mulberry tree (Broussonetia papyrifera), brought to Hawaiʻi by early Polynesian settlers. The plant is harvested when it reaches six to ten feet tall. The outer bark is stripped away, and the white fibrous inner layer — the bast — is soaked, often in seawater, to soften the fibers. Roen Hufford, an NEA National Heritage Fellow from Molokaʻi, insists that anyone learning kapa from her must first understand how to cultivate wauke. “All of this starts with the land,” she has said. She maintains two large wauke patches on her farm, one first planted by her mother, master lei maker Marie Leilehua McDonald.

The soaked bark strips are laid on a wooden anvil — called an iʻe kuku in Hawaiian — and struck with a carved wooden beater. The beater spreads and thins the fibers, interlacing them into a soft, felted sheet. The final beating pass uses a beater with an intricately carved surface that leaves behind a watermark — a pattern unique to the maker. At Haleakalā National Park in 2023, practitioners Didi Krause and Poha Kanakaʻole demonstrated how these watermarks personalize each piece, reflecting the maker’s environment and experience.

Sheets are joined while wet using natural adhesives from plants such as arrowroot or taro, then sun-dried. Decorating follows: designs are painted freehand, rubbed over carved boards, or applied through stencils. Pigments come from volcanic clays, mangrove bark, and soot — producing browns, blacks, and reds. Patterns often carry meaning: family lineage, island identity, or stories from nature.

Practical tip

If you visit a kapa demonstration — such as those held at Haleakalā National Park or during the Smithsonian Folklife Festival — ask about the watermark on the finished piece. Practitioners are often glad to explain what their chosen pattern represents and how it connects to their personal or family history.

Sound, Spirit, and Status

Kapa was never merely fabric. In pre-contact Hawaiʻi, the ʻouʻou — the sound of the beater on the anvil — was a form of communication. The Smithsonian Folklife Festival has documented that a group of fifty people pounding kapa could transmit sound across roughly two miles, and different rhythms signaled events such as the approach of a king or the outbreak of war. The beating was women’s work, often done communally, and the sound was so ubiquitous that travelers heard it long before they saw a settlement.

Kapa also carried mana — spiritual power — from the plants and the hands that worked it. The color and design of a garment indicated social standing and clan affiliation. Each family or clan used distinct patterns, making kapa a recognizable marker of identity. It was used in births, marriages, deaths, and as exchange gifts in formal gatherings. The cloth held the life force of its materials and makers.

Watch out for

A common outsider misconception is that kapa is simply “bark paper” or a rough precursor to woven fabric. In fact, well-made kapa is soft, durable, water-resistant, and warm — a sophisticated textile that required specialized botanical knowledge, years of practice, and an understanding of the spiritual dimensions of the work. It was not a substitute for cloth; it was cloth, on its own terms.

The Long Revival

After European contact, manufactured cloth — cheaper and faster to produce — displaced kapa for everyday use. By the mid-1800s, production had largely stopped. Knowledge was preserved in museum collections, in the memories of elder practitioners, and in the patterns passed down within families.

The Hawaiian Renaissance of the 1960s and 70s changed that. A broader reclamation of Hawaiian language, hula, and traditional arts included a renewed interest in kapa. Practitioners turned to historical records, museum specimens, and the knowledge of elders to reconstruct techniques. The revival was not about freezing the practice in the past; it was about bringing it back to life in the present.

Today that revival is visible in multiple forms — from the free weekly kapa hui that Roen Hufford hosts at her home on Oʻahu to the contemporary art installations of Lehuauakea, whose kapa piece “Puka Komo ‘Ekahi: Portal to Grant Permission” was acquired by the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian in 2024. The question is no longer whether kapa will survive, but what it should become.

E
What strikes me about the kapa revival is how differently each practitioner answers that question. For Roen Hufford, the emphasis is on the land-based process — students must learn to grow wauke before they can beat it. For Malia Peoples in Seattle, the goal is accessibility: making kapa bucket hats and scrunchies that let people wear the tradition in daily life. Neither approach is wrong, but the tension between them — closed knowledge vs. open sharing, ritual purity vs. adaptation — is the real story of how traditions stay alive.
— Emily Carter

Contemporary Kapa: Four Practitioners, Four Visions

The current generation of kapa makers includes artists working in very different contexts, yet they share a commitment to the material and its cultural roots.

Roen Hufford
NEA National Heritage Fellow · Molokaʻi / Oʻahu
Born in 1950 on Molokaʻi, Hufford studied art at the Pratt Institute and the University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa. She learned lei making from her mother, Marie Leilehua McDonald, and later expanded into kapa under the guidance of Malia Solomon, Puanani Van Dorpe, and Moana Eisle. In 2023 she was named an NEA National Heritage Fellow. She hosts a weekly kapa hui at her home, teaching the full process from farming wauke to decorating with natural dyes — all free of charge. She once delayed a large commission because the wauke was not ready for harvest, telling a student whose dye experiment changed after drying: “The kapa is still alive. That’s what life is about.” roenhufford.com
Lehuauakea
Interdisciplinary Artist · Hawaiʻi / Oregon
Lehuauakea grew up in Pāpaʻikou on the Big Island and moved to Oregon at age 14, where they experienced pressure to assimilate. They first encountered kapa while studying abroad and taught themself the craft, later apprenticing with master practitioner Wesley Sen. Their work centers the reclamation of māhū identity — a traditional Hawaiian third-gender role that was stigmatized under colonial rule. Their kapa piece “Puka Komo ‘Ekahi: Portal to Grant Permission” (2024) was acquired by the Smithsonian NMAI. They have also partnered with HOSH to create Pride kapa designs that center Native Hawaiian communities rather than Western Pride imagery. lehuauakea.com
Malia Peoples
Community-Based Artist · Seattle
Malia Peoples is a South Seattle–based artist who creates contemporary garments from traditional kapa — including bucket hats and scrunchies. She serves as the Indigenous Pasifika storytelling artist in residence at Hummingbird Indigenous Family Services. She teaches kapa making at street fairs, libraries, and museums, and has demonstrated at events such as What’s Good Fest and the Othello Park International Festival. Peoples is open about the limitations of her work: kapa is not suitable for extended water use, and she has not yet learned the traditional techniques for making it fully water-resistant. She has long-term goals of helping develop kapa as a small industry again. Hummingbird Indigenous Family Services
Kumu Micah Kamohoali‘i
Hula Teacher & Textile Artist · Oʻahu
A Native Hawaiian hula teacher and fashion designer, Kamohoali‘i led a kapa pounding demonstration at the 2018 Smithsonian Folklife Festival. He learned kapa from ancestors spanning multiple generations and combines traditional techniques with contemporary fashion design, creating garments that use historical patterns on modern fabrics. He has said, “There’s more to kapa than meets the eye.” His work is available through his design label. dbkamohoalii.com

Context and Comparison: Traditional Roots, Contemporary Branches

The table below compares how kapa was used and understood before contact with how it functions today. The contrasts reveal not decline but transformation — and the debates that come with it.

DimensionTraditional Kapa (pre-1800)Contemporary Kapa (2020s)
Primary makersWomen, often working in community groupsMen and women, including artists trained outside family lines
Scale of productionHousehold and community level; every village had practitionersIndividual artists and small collectives; no commercial industry
AudienceFamily, clan, local communityArt galleries, museums, cultural festivals, online buyers
Role of the makerLaborer and tradition-bearer within kinship systemArtist, educator, cultural advocate, sometimes entrepreneur
Relationship to the pastContinuous, generational transmissionReconstructed from museum collections, historical records, and elder knowledge
Degree of innovationPatterns evolved slowly within clan conventionsDeliberate experimentation with forms (hats, art installations, Pride designs)

One unresolved tension runs through this table: how much should kapa change? Some traditional practitioners expect the practice to remain closed and strictly faithful to pre-contact methods. Others, like Malia Peoples, argue that making kapa accessible to a wider audience — through contemporary garments and public workshops — is essential for its survival. Peoples has said that some traditional kapa makers disagree with her approach. This debate is not a sign of weakness; it is the normal work of a living tradition.

Worth knowing

The 2025 exhibition E Ola Ke Kahua O Ka Hana Kapa: The Foundation of Kapa Making Thrives at the Kahilu Theatre on Hawaiʻi Island showcased the work of multiple contemporary practitioners, including pieces that explicitly addressed the tension between preservation and innovation. Kahilu Theatre exhibition page

Key Takeaways

  • Kapa is a sophisticated textile made from the inner bark of the wauke tree through a months-long process of soaking, beating, joining, and decorating.
  • The practice carries spiritual significance (mana) and was historically used for communication, status marking, and ceremonial exchange.
  • After near-erasure following European contact, kapa has been revived since the 1970s through the Hawaiian Renaissance and the work of dedicated practitioners.
  • Contemporary kapa makers disagree about how much the tradition should adapt — a productive tension that keeps the practice alive rather than frozen.

A quick heads up — some links here are affiliate links. If you buy through them, it costs you nothing extra but earns IslandHopperGuides a small commission. Honestly, that’s a big part of what funds the travel and research that goes into guides like this one. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — and I really do appreciate the support.

Questions Readers Ask

Is kapa the same as tapa?

Kapa is the Hawaiian term for barkcloth; tapa is the more widely used term across the Pacific, originating from Tahitian and other Polynesian languages. The techniques and materials vary by island group — Hawaiian kapa is distinguished by its use of fermentation, watermarks, and bold natural pigments. The two terms are often used interchangeably outside Hawaiʻi, but within the islands, kapa is preferred.

Can I buy real kapa, and how do I know it’s authentic?

Yes, but authentic kapa is rare and expensive — a single sheet can take months to produce. Look for work sold directly by practitioners such as Roen Hufford or through galleries that represent Hawaiian artists. Machine-made imitations from synthetic fibers are common; genuine kapa has an uneven surface, visible fiber texture, and the distinctive watermark from the final beating. Malia Solomon’s site offers guidance on storage and care.

Is kapa making only for Native Hawaiians?

Kapa is a Kanaka Maoli (Native Hawaiian) tradition, and many practitioners emphasize that it should be learned within a cultural framework that includes Hawaiian language, protocol, and relationship to the land. However, some artists, like Malia Peoples, teach hands-on techniques at public community events as a way of sharing the practice widely. This is one of the active debates within the kapa community: who should have access to the knowledge, and under what conditions.

Why did kapa production stop in the first place?

Manufactured cloth introduced by European and American traders and missionaries in the late 1700s and early 1800s was cheaper, faster to produce, and became associated with prestige and modernity. Kapa production declined rapidly. Additionally, the Hawaiian population was devastated by introduced diseases, which disrupted the intergenerational transmission of knowledge. By the mid-1800s, kapa making had effectively ceased as a widespread practice.

Can I see kapa being made today?

Yes. Public demonstrations occur at cultural festivals, national parks, and museums. Haleakalā National Park has hosted kapa beating demonstrations. The Smithsonian Folklife Festival featured kapa in 2018. Roen Hufford’s weekly kapa hui on Oʻahu is open to all ages and skill levels, free of charge. For those planning a trip to Hawaiʻi, cultural tours often include visits to artists’ studios and opportunities to see the process firsthand.

The Unfinished Cloth

Kapa is not a relic. It is a practice that has survived colonization, depopulation, and the near-total loss of its material culture — and it is now being remade by people who refuse to let it become a footnote. The sound of the beater on the anvil, once nearly silent, is audible again in farm workshops, museum galleries, and community festivals from Honolulu to Seattle. What kapa will become in the next generation is not yet decided. That uncertainty is not a problem to solve; it is the condition of a living tradition.

For a closer look at how the Hawaiian Renaissance reclaimed this and other practices, read our guide to the roots of Hawaiian barkcloth making.

Sources and further reading

Christina Ayson-Plank. “Hawaiian Kapa with Roen Hufford.” Smithsonian Center for Folklife & Cultural Heritage, 2026. 🔗

Jenny “Jeta” Tang. “The Stories We Fight to Preserve.” Civil Beat, 2026. 🔗

“Tapa Cloth: How Pacific Island Barkcloth Is Made and Used.” Traditional Culture Blog. 🔗

“Home: Kapa Beating.” National Park Service, Haleakalā National Park, 2023. 🔗

“Hawaiian Kapa Bark Cloth.” Smithsonian Folklife Festival, 2018. 🔗

Related reading on IslandHopperGuides

Discovering the Cultural Significance of Kapa in Hawaii — Explores the deeper meanings and protocols behind kapa as more than just cloth.

Hawaiian Tattooing: The Deep Cultural Significance of Kakau — Another traditional Hawaiian practice that was nearly lost and is now being revived.

Explore Places to Stay

Feel free to zoom in and out of the map to explore the area and find the best place to stay for your trip.

Facebook
Twitter
LinkedIn
Email

Emily Carter

I’m Emily Carter, a travel writer who’s on the road most of the year—sometimes with my husband Michael and our kids, Lily and Ethan, and other times traveling solo so I can focus closely on one place. When you travel with me through my writing, you’ll notice I move slowly, walking local streets, stopping at markets, and paying attention to how a place really feels once you’re there.When I’m traveling with my family, I’m always thinking about what will work well for you if you have kids, and what often gets overlooked. When I’m on my own, I spend more time in neighborhoods, along coastal paths, or in historic areas where daily life unfolds naturally. I focus on practical details, everyday food, and real experiences, so you know what you’ll actually see, hear, and experience when you arrive.

And oh, I may earn a small commission from affiliate links, which helps support the site at no extra cost to you. Thanks for the support!

Leave a Reply

Readers'
Top Picks

Exploring The Ahupua’a System And Its Cultural Significance

The ahupuaʻa system was a traditional Hawaiian land management practice that divided land into pie-shaped wedges running from the mountains to the sea. This ingenious system ensured resource management, community sustainability, and a deep connection between the people and their environment, reflecting the core values of Hawaiian culture. Understanding

Read More »

The Language of Aloha: Understanding the Power of Hawaiian Phrases

The Hawaiian language, ‘Ōlelo Hawaiʻi, is much more than just words; it’s a vibrant expression of Hawaiian culture, philosophy, and connection to the land. Learning key Hawaiian phrases offers invaluable insights into the values and traditions that shape the spirit of Aloha. Understanding these phrases allows you to engage

Read More »

Kapa: The Art of Hawaiian Fabric Making

Kapa is far more than just fabric; it embodies Hawaiian culture and history. This unique textile, crafted from the bark of the wauke plant, has served diverse purposes in Hawaii for centuries, ranging from everyday clothing to sacred ceremonial items. Venture into the captivating world of kapa, where tradition

Read More »

Ancient Heiau: Exploring Hawaii’s Sacred Temples and Their Legacy

Kānaka ʻŌiwi (Native Hawaiians) built heiau — often translated as “temples” or “places of worship” — that ranged from simple fishing shrines of stacked coral to massive stone platforms covering acres. At Puʻukoholā Heiau on Hawaiʻi Island, an estimated 600,000 workers passed stones hand-to-hand from Pololū Valley, 20 miles

Read More »