Surfing isn’t just a sport in Hawaii; it’s a way of life deeply intertwined with Hawaiian culture, history, and spirituality. It’s about connecting with the ocean, respecting its power, and honoring the traditions passed down through generations. From ancient ali’i (royalty) gliding on wooden boards to modern-day surfers chasing massive swells, the spirit of surfing remains a vital part of the Hawaiian identity.
The Ancient Roots of He’e Nalu: Surfing in Hawaiian History
Long before Captain Cook arrived in 1778, surfing, known as he’e nalu (wave sliding), was an integral part of Hawaiian life. It wasn’t just recreation; it was a display of skill, courage, and connection to the natural world. Chiefs and commoners alike participated, often using different types of boards that reflected their social standing. Ali’i (royalty) had longer boards, often made of koa wood, while commoners used shorter, more manageable boards from other types of local wood. These boards, sometimes exceeding 12 feet in length, were meticulously crafted and treated with reverence.
He’e nalu played a role in social rituals, competitions, and even dispute resolution. Matches between chiefs from different islands were serious affairs, sometimes determining land boundaries or settling rivalries. Skilled surfers held a prestigious position in the community, and their abilities were celebrated in chants and stories. Imagine the scene: vibrant feather cloaks worn by the ali’i, the rhythmic beat of drums, and the roar of the crowd as a surfer navigated a breaking wave with grace and power.
One of the most famous surfers of Hawaiian history was King Kamehameha I, who united the Hawaiian Islands. He was known not only for his military prowess but also for his surfing skills. His love for he’e nalu reflects the strong connection between leadership and the ocean in Hawaiian society.
Unfortunately, with the arrival of missionaries in the 19th century, traditional Hawaiian practices, including surfing, were suppressed. Considered frivolous and immodest, surfing was discouraged, and its practice dwindled. However, the spirit of he’e nalu never truly died out. Dedicated individuals kept the tradition alive, paving the way for its resurgence in the 20th century.
The Duke Kahanamoku Legacy: Reviving the Spirit of Surfing
The revival of surfing as a prominent sport and cultural symbol is largely attributed to Duke Kahanamoku. Born in Honolulu in 1890, Duke was a five-time Olympic medalist in swimming and a passionate surfer. He used his platform to promote surfing around the world, demonstrating its beauty and athleticism to audiences who had never seen it before.
Duke’s worldwide tours, showcasing his surfing prowess in places like Australia and California, sparked a global interest in the sport. He became known as the “Father of Modern Surfing,” not because he invented the sport, but because he single-handedly popularized it on an international scale. More than just a talented athlete, Duke was an ambassador for Hawaiian culture, sharing the spirit of aloha and the importance of respecting the ocean.
To this day, Duke Kahanamoku’s legacy endures. His statue stands on Waikiki Beach, a constant reminder of his contribution to surfing and Hawaiian culture. The annual Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championships, though discontinued, left an indelible mark on competitive surfing. The Duke Kahanamoku Foundation continues his work by supporting young athletes and promoting Hawaiian culture. He is a symbol of the enduring connection between surfing and the Hawaiian identity.
The Aloha Spirit: Surfing with Respect and Harmony
Beyond the physical act of riding waves, surfing in Hawaii is deeply connected to the aloha spirit. Aloha is more than just a greeting; it’s a philosophy of love, compassion, and respect. When applied to surfing, it means respecting the ocean, the other surfers, and the traditions of the sport.
Here’s how the Aloha spirit translates into practical surfing etiquette:
- Respect the Ocean (Makai): The ocean is a powerful force, and approaching it with humility is paramount. This includes being aware of ocean conditions, respecting marine life, and avoiding polluting the waters. It also means acknowledging the inherent risks involved in surfing and not pushing your limits beyond your abilities.
- Share the Waves (Hui): Surfing is a communal activity, and sharing waves is essential. The surfer closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. Dropping in on another surfer, which is riding a wave in front of you, is a serious breach of etiquette and can lead to dangerous situations.
- Respect the Locals (Kama’aina): Hawaiian surf breaks often have a strong local presence. Showing respect to the local surfers is crucial. This means observing their customs, acknowledging their expertise, and not being overly aggressive in the lineup. Remember you are a guest in their home.
- Maintain Cleanliness (Malama ‘Aina): Protecting the environment is a vital part of the aloha spirit. This includes picking up trash, using reef-safe sunscreen, and avoiding any activities that could harm the delicate marine ecosystem.
Ignoring these principles can lead to resentment and conflict in the water. Embracing the aloha spirit not only makes surfing more enjoyable for everyone but also helps preserve the cultural integrity of the sport. It’s about being a mindful and respectful participant in the surfing community.
The Language of Surfing: Hawaiian Terms to Know
To truly appreciate surfing in Hawaii, it’s helpful to learn some basic Hawaiian terms related to the sport. Using these terms not only shows respect for the culture but also enhances your understanding of the surfing experience.
- He’e Nalu: As mentioned earlier, this means “wave sliding” and is the traditional Hawaiian term for surfing.
- Hana Hou: This means “do it again” or “one more time.” You might hear this shouted from shore when someone performs an impressive maneuver.
- Mauka: This means “toward the mountain.” It’s used to describe direction relative to the sea.
- Makai: This means “toward the ocean.” It’s the opposite of mauka.
- Kama’aina: This means “local” or “native-born.” It’s important to respect the kama’aina at each surf break.
- Ohana: This means “family,” but it extends beyond blood relations to include close friends and community members. The surfing community often feels like an ohana.
- Pau Hana: This refers to “after work” usually used for a celebratory gathering or drink after a day’s work.
- Shaka:This is a hand gesture, pinky and thumb extended, commonly used to signal “hang loose,” “okay,” or “right on.” It is the ultimate symbol of Hawaiian expression.
By incorporating these terms into your surfing vocabulary, you’ll not only sound more knowledgeable but also demonstrate a genuine appreciation for the Hawaiian language and culture.
Best Surf Spots in Hawaii: A Guide for All Levels
Hawaii offers a wide range of surf spots, from gentle beginner waves to challenging big-wave breaks. Knowing where to go based on your skill level is crucial for a safe and enjoyable experience. Let’s break them down by island, focusing on Oahu, Maui, and Kauai:
Oahu
- Waikiki: Perfect for beginners, Waikiki’s gentle, rolling waves are ideal for learning to surf. There are numerous surf schools and board rental shops along the beach. A two-hour group lesson usually costs between $80 and $120. (Directions: Easily accessible from almost anywhere in Honolulu.)
- Canoes: Part of Waikiki. It is one the most famous surf spots for beginners.
- North Shore (Winter Months): During the winter months (November to February), the North Shore comes alive with massive swells. Famous breaks like Banzai Pipeline, Sunset Beach, and Waimea Bay attract the world’s best surfers. These breaks are only for experienced big-wave riders.
- Banzai Pipeline: Sharks are frequent in the ocean, so be aware during your surfing and research!
- Sunset Beach: It is known for its powerful waves which can break in shallow waters, making it a dangerous spot for inexperienced surfers.
(Directions: Take HI-83 W from Honolulu, approximately 1-hour drive).
- Haleiwa: A more mellow spot on the North Shore, suitable for intermediate surfers. (Directions: About a 5-minute drive past the Banzai Pipeline.)
Maui
- Lahaina: Offers several beginner-friendly breaks, particularly in the summer months. (Directions: Located on the west side of Maui.)
- The Cove Park: Consistent, gentle waves are ideal for beginners and longboarders. Surf lessons are available. Parking can be limited, especially during peak season. Rental shops are across the street for any gear needed. (Directions: Found in Kihei.)
- Honolua Bay (Winter Months): A world-class point break offering long, smooth rides. Best suited for intermediate to advanced surfers. (Directions: Located on the northwest coast of Maui, about a 20-minute drive from Kapalua.)
- Jaws (Peahi) (Winter Months): Only for the most experienced big-wave surfers, Jaws is a legendary break known for its towering waves. It’s a spectacle to watch, but definitely not for beginners. (Directions: Very remote. East of Pauwela off of the Hana Highway on Maui’s North Shore. Best viewed by boat or helicopter.)
Kauai
- Poipu Beach: Offers gentle waves suitable for beginners, especially in the summer. (Directions: Located on the south shore of Kauai.)
- Hanalei Bay (Summer Months): A beautiful bay with several surf breaks suitable for different skill levels. (Directions: Located on the north shore of Kauai.)
- Kekaha: A long sandy beach along the west coast of Kauai. Great for beginners and longboarders as there’s plenty of space. (Directions: Head west from Highway 50).
- Polihale State Park: Known for its wild beauty and powerful waves. Recommended for advanced surfers only. (Directions: You will need to drive down a bumpy dirt road. Proceed with caution.)
Important Note: Before venturing out to any surf spot, always check the local surf report and be aware of the ocean conditions. Talk to local surfers or lifeguards for advice on the best and safest spots for your skill level.
Beyond the Waves: How Surfing Shapes Hawaiian Culture
The influence of surfing extends far beyond the beach in Hawaii. It has permeated various aspects of Hawaiian culture, from art and music to fashion and tourism. The imagery of surfing, with its vibrant colors and dynamic movements, is a recurring theme in Hawaiian art and design.
Music plays a significant role in the surfing lifestyle. From traditional Hawaiian chants celebrating the ocean to contemporary surf rock, music sets the mood and reflects the spirit of surfing. Many Hawaiian musicians draw inspiration from the ocean and surfing in their compositions. Listen to local Hawaiian radio stations or browse the music section in local stores to discover some surfing-inspired tunes.
Surfing has also significantly shaped the tourism industry in Hawaii. Waikiki Beach, with its iconic waves and surf schools, is a major tourist destination. Many visitors come to Hawaii specifically to learn to surf or to experience the surfing culture. However, it’s important to remember that tourism should be conducted in a way that respects the local culture and environment. Support local businesses, learn about Hawaiian traditions, and be mindful of your impact on the island.
Surf culture has spread beyond Hawaii through fashion & music. The ‘surf’ t-shirt originated from the surfer culture of Hawaii. Surf brands such as Quiksilver and Billabong became popular internationally. Surf rock became prevalent from artists like the Beach Boys. The popularity of surfing has popularized surf rock and surf themed apparel all over the world.
How to Get Started: Learning to Surf the Hawaiian Way
If you’re visiting Hawaii and want to learn to surf, you’re in for a treat! Here are some tips for getting started:
- Take a Lesson: The best way to learn to surf is by taking a lesson from a qualified instructor. Many surf schools offer lessons for beginners, covering the basics of paddling, popping up, and wave riding. Look for schools that emphasize safety and respect for the ocean.
- Start Small: Don’t try to tackle big waves right away. Start with small, gentle waves on a longboard. As you gain confidence and skill, you can gradually move to smaller boards and bigger waves.
- Practice, Practice, Practice: Surfing takes time and practice. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t get it right away. Keep practicing, and you’ll eventually get the hang of it.
- Be Patient: Learn how to read the water. The water might seem calm at any beach, but there are rip currents and other dangers that exist!
- Respect the Ocean: Always be aware of your surroundings and respect the power of the ocean. Never surf alone, and always check the local surf report before heading out.
- Rent a Board: Most surf schools and surf shops offer surfboard rentals. Prices vary depending on the type of board and rental duration, but you can typically rent a longboard for around $20-$30 per day.
- Be Prepared: Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a rash guard, and plenty of water to stay hydrated.
Remember, learning to surf is more than just a physical activity; it’s an opportunity to connect with the ocean and experience the aloha spirit. Embrace the challenge, have fun, and enjoy the ride!
Staying Sustainable: Protecting Hawaii’s Oceans
The health of Hawaii’s oceans is crucial, not just for surfing but for the entire ecosystem. As surfers, we have a responsibility to protect the waters we love. Here are some ways you can help:
- Use Reef-Safe Sunscreen: Many conventional sunscreens contain chemicals that can harm coral reefs. Choose reef-safe sunscreens that do not contain oxybenzone or octinoxate.
- Reduce Plastic Consumption: Plastic pollution is a major threat to marine life. Reduce your use of single-use plastics by bringing your reusable water bottle, shopping bags, and utensils.
- Dispose of Trash Properly: Never litter on the beach or in the water. Always dispose of your trash in designated receptacles.
- Support Sustainable Businesses: Support businesses that are committed to protecting the environment. Look for eco-friendly hotels, restaurants, and surf shops.
- Participate in Beach Cleanups: Join a local beach cleanup to help remove trash and debris from the shoreline. Many organizations host regular cleanups, providing a great way to give back to the community.
- Educate Others: Share your knowledge with others and encourage them to adopt sustainable practices. By working together, we can protect Hawaii’s oceans for future generations.
FAQ Section
What is the best time of year to surf in Hawaii?
The best time to surf depends on your skill level and the type of waves you’re looking for. Winter (November to February) is known for big waves, especially on the North Shore of Oahu. Summer (May to September) offers gentler waves, ideal for beginners, particularly on the south shores of most islands.
Do I need to be a strong swimmer to surf?
Yes, being a competent swimmer is essential for surfing safety. You should be comfortable swimming in the ocean and able to handle yourself in rough water. If you’re not a strong swimmer, consider taking swimming lessons before learning to surf.
What should I wear surfing?
Wear a rash guard or wetsuit top to protect your skin from the sun and prevent chafing. In warmer months, board shorts or a swimsuit are sufficient. During colder months, a full wetsuit may be necessary.
How much does it cost to learn to surf in Hawaii?
A two-hour group surf lesson typically costs between $80 and $120. Private lessons can range from $150 to $300. Surfboard rentals usually cost around $20-$30 per day.
Where can I rent a surfboard in Hawaii?
Surfboard rentals are widely available at surf shops and surf schools near popular beaches. In Waikiki, you’ll find numerous rental options along Kalakaua Avenue. The price depends on the type of board and rental duration, but you can typically rent a longboard for around $20-$30 per day.
References
Kampion, Drew. Stoked: A History of Surf Culture. General Publishing Group, 1998.
Warshaw, Matt. The Encyclopedia of Surfing. Harcourt Brace, 2005.
Finney, Ben R., and James D. Houston. Surfing: A History. Pomegranate Communications, 1996.
Booth, Douglas. Australian Beach Cultures: The History of Sun, Sand and Surf. Frank Cass, 2001.
“Duke Kahanamoku Biography.” International Swimming Hall of Fame.
Ready to embrace the Hawaiian way of life? Don’t just visit Hawaii; experience it. Book a surf lesson, learn about its culture, and immerse yourself in the aloha spirit. Respect the ocean, honor the traditions, and discover the joy of riding the waves. Your adventure awaits!
