Crafting Leis: A Beautiful Hawaiian Tradition

Walk into any Hawaiian airport on a busy arrival day and you will see them: garlands of plumeria, orchid, and maile draped over travelers’ shoulders, smiles all around. Most visitors experience the lei as a warm welcome, a souvenir photo, a fragrant thank-you. But the practice of making and giving leis carries weight far beyond the tourist greeting. In Hawaiian tradition, a lei is not merely decorative. It is a living expression of aloha — love, respect, connection — and its crafting involves techniques passed down through generations, specific plant materials chosen for their meaning, and protocols that many visitors never learn. This article explores what a lei actually is, where its traditions come from, how they have changed, and what it means to participate in that tradition today — whether you are wearing one, giving one, or learning to make one yourself.

Each of these lei types represents a different relationship between maker, material, and occasion. The table above is a starting point, but in practice, lei makers often combine materials and adapt techniques. The same flower can carry different meanings depending on context, and regional traditions across the islands introduce further variation.

From Ancient Voyagers to Modern Revival

The earliest leis in Hawaii were brought by Polynesian voyagers who arrived in the islands centuries before European contact. These settlers created garlands from the plants they found — leaves, vines, seeds, and flowers — using them in religious offerings, as markers of rank, and as personal adornment. The Wikipedia entry on lei notes that the practice was widespread across Polynesia, with each island group developing its own materials and styles. In pre-contact Hawaii, certain leis were reserved for aliʻi (chiefs) or used in ceremonies at heiau (temples).

That changed dramatically in the 19th century. Western contact brought new flowers — plumeria, for instance, is native to Central America and arrived in Hawaii only in the 1800s — along with new social structures and a decline in many traditional practices. Missionaries discouraged what they saw as pagan adornment. By the late 1800s, lei-making had faded from public life in many communities.

The revival began in the early 20th century, driven by Hawaiian cultural advocates who saw the lei as a symbol of identity worth preserving. In 1927, writer and artist Don Blanding proposed a dedicated day to celebrate the lei. His idea gained traction, and in 1929, Lei Day was officially recognized, celebrated on May 1 each year. Blanding described it as “a return to the old ways, a return to a simpler way of life, when people worked with their hands and made beautiful things for one another.” Today, Lei Day events include concerts, hula performances, flower shows, and public lei-making workshops across the islands. It remains one of the most visible ways the tradition is kept alive and taught to new generations.

The Four Techniques of Lei Making

Lei makers distinguish four primary techniques, each suited to different materials and occasions. Understanding these methods is essential for anyone attending a workshop or trying to identify what kind of lei they are wearing.

Each technique demands different skills and tools — scissors, needles, thread, and a steady hand. Workshops typically provide all materials and guide participants through one or two methods. The choice of technique often depends on what is blooming, what the lei is for, and who is making it.

What a Lei Says — Symbolism by Flower and Color

The meaning of a lei is not fixed. It shifts with the flowers used, the colors chosen, the occasion, and the relationship between giver and receiver. That said, certain associations are widely recognized across the islands.

Plumeria leis, with their sweet fragrance and vibrant colors, are often given as a general expression of welcome or affection. But plumeria also appears in funerary contexts — the flowers are commonly planted in cemeteries, and some families associate them with honoring the dead. This dual meaning is a good example of why context matters. A plumeria lei at a graduation says something different from one placed on a grave.

Orchid leis carry connotations of luxury and rarity. White orchids symbolize purity and innocence; pink orchids represent love and femininity. Maile leis, woven from the fragrant leaves of the native maile vine, are strongly associated with unity and are a traditional element of Hawaiian weddings. Fern leis, more understated, suggest elegance and a quiet connection to the forest.

Color also carries weight. Bright, warm shades — yellow, orange, pink — are associated with joy and celebration. White conveys purity, respect, and sometimes mourning. Darker hues, like deep red or purple, can indicate passion or honor. These meanings are not rigid rules, but they are widely enough understood that choosing a color with intention matters.

Lei Day and the Living Tradition

Lei Day, celebrated every May 1, is the most public expression of lei culture in Hawaii. It began as a proposal by Don Blanding in 1927 and was formalized by the Territory of Hawaii in 1929. The holiday coincides with May Day, but its focus is specifically Hawaiian — a celebration of the lei as art form, cultural practice, and symbol of aloha.

Events vary by island but typically include lei-making demonstrations and workshops, hula performances, live music, and contests for the most creative or traditional lei. Schools often participate, with students learning to make leis as part of the curriculum. For visitors, Lei Day offers one of the best opportunities to see the range of materials and techniques in one place and to try making a lei under the guidance of experienced practitioners.

Still, the relationship between tourism and lei-making remains contested. Some practitioners argue that the commercial sale of leis at airports and hotels has reduced the practice to a transaction, stripping it of the intentionality that giving a handmade lei requires. Others see tourism as the reason the tradition survived — without demand from visitors, the economic incentive to maintain large-scale lei-making might have disappeared. Both positions have merit, and the tension between them is part of the living tradition.

Techniques and Traditions Across the Islands

Lei-making is not uniform across Hawaii. Different islands have access to different plants, different histories of migration and settlement, and different local customs that shape how leis are made and used.

These regional differences matter. A lei made on the Big Island from lehua blossoms carries a different ecological and cultural story than a lei made on Oʻahu from imported orchids. Neither is “more authentic” — but understanding where a lei comes from adds a layer of meaning that is easy to overlook.

Questions Readers Ask

Can anyone learn to make a lei, or is it reserved for Hawaiians?

Anyone can learn. Workshops across the islands welcome beginners of all backgrounds. The skill is taught as a cultural practice, not a secret knowledge — but instructors expect participants to treat the materials and the tradition with respect.

Learning from a Hawaiian practitioner in a community setting is different from buying a prefabricated lei at a hotel gift shop. The workshop experience includes stories about the plants, the techniques, and the occasions that give leis their meaning.

Is it rude to refuse a lei?

Yes, refusing a lei is generally considered disrespectful. If you have a reason — severe allergies, for instance — it is better to accept it briefly and then set it aside gently rather than refuse outright. Do not remove the lei in front of the giver, as that signals rejection.

If you receive a lei you cannot wear, a simple “Mahalo, I will treasure it” and placing it carefully on a bag or seat is acceptable.

Do leis have to be made of flowers?

No. Leis can be made from leaves (maile, fern), shells (pūpū), seeds (kukui), nuts, feathers, vines, fabric, or even paper. The term refers to the form — a garland worn around the neck, head, wrists, or ankles — not the material.

Shell leis, in particular, are valued as heirloom pieces and can last for generations with proper care.

What does a closed lei (no opening) mean?

Some traditions associate closed leis — those that form a complete circle with no break — with funerary or memorial contexts, symbolizing the cycle of life and death. However, this is not a universal rule. Many closed leis are given at celebrations.

If you are unsure, ask the giver or the workshop instructor. The safest approach is to assume a closed lei carries the same positive intent as an open one unless told otherwise.

How do you preserve a lei after an event?

For fresh flower leis, mist the lei with water, place it in a sealed plastic bag, and refrigerate. It will last one to three days. For longer preservation, hang the lei in a dry, shaded place to air-dry, or press individual flowers in a book.

Shell and fabric leis require no special care — store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

The Enduring Practice of Giving and Receiving

What makes a lei more than a flower necklace is the act of giving. The giver typically places the lei over the recipient’s head, often accompanied by a kiss on the cheek or a hug. The recipient bows slightly to receive it — a gesture of humility and respect. Taking the lei off in front of the giver, or letting it fall to the ground, is seen as a rejection of the aloha it represents. These protocols are not rigid formalities; they are the social grammar that turns a garland into a meaningful exchange.

Leis also connect people to place. The plants used — whether native ʻōhiʻa lehua, introduced plumeria, or carefully cultivated orchids — carry the ecological story of the islands. Choosing local, seasonal materials supports the environment and honors the tradition of using what the land provides. Many workshops emphasize sustainable harvesting and encourage participants to think about where their materials come from.

If you are curious about how broader Hawaiian values connect to practices like lei-making, the concept of pono — balance, righteousness, harmony — offers a useful lens. Understanding the significance of pono in Hawaiian life helps situate lei-giving as one expression of a much larger ethical framework, one that emphasizes reciprocity, respect for resources, and the health of community relationships.

Sources and further reading

Wikipedia. “Lei (garland).” 🔗

This Week Hawaii. “What Makes Hawaiian Lei So Special? Understanding Their History and Cultural Meaning.” 🔗

NPI Fund. “Hawaiian Leis: Understanding Their Rich Tradition, Cultural Symbolism, and the Art of Lei Making.” 🔗

NPI Fund. “Local Culture: Lei Day and the Art of the Hawaiian Lei.” 🔗

Related reading on IslandHopperGuides

From Kapu to Aloha: Understanding the Evolution of Hawaiian Law and Society — Traces the shift from traditional kapu systems to modern Hawaiian legal and social structures.

The Language of Aloha: A Deep Dive into the Hawaiian Language and Its Revitalization — Explores the revival of ʻŌlelo Hawaiʻi and its connection to cultural identity, relevant to understanding how traditions like lei-making are sustained.