Ready to hang ten? Hawaii, with its consistent swells, warm waters, and stunning beaches, is the perfect place to learn to surf. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to catch your first wave in paradise, from choosing the right board to understanding ocean safety.
Before You Paddle Out: Essential Prep
Learning to surf isn’t just about hopping on a board and hoping for the best. A little preparation goes a long way in making your experience safe, enjoyable, and successful. Think of it as setting the foundation for a lifelong love affair with the ocean.
Finding the Right Surf School or Instructor
While you could try to teach yourself, enrolling in a surf school or hiring a qualified instructor is highly recommended, especially for beginners. They’ll provide you with crucial foundational knowledge, including ocean safety, paddling techniques, and how to pop up correctly. Look for schools that are certified and instructors who are experienced and CPR/First Aid certified. Some popular options include:
Hans Hedemann Surf School: Known for their experienced instructors and locations on Waikiki Beach and the North Shore. Expect to pay around $80-$120 for a group lesson and $150-$250 for a private lesson.
Star Beachboys: A Waikiki institution offering lessons for all ages and skill levels. Group lessons are typically around $75-$100.
North Shore Surf School: Located in Haleiwa, this school specializes in lessons on the North Shore’s legendary waves (suitable for beginners when conditions are right). Prices are similar to Waikiki schools.
Check online reviews, compare prices, and inquire about instructor qualifications before making your choice. A good instructor will not only teach you how to surf but also instill respect for the ocean.
What to Wear and Bring
Comfort and sun protection are key. Here’s a checklist:
Rashguard or Surf Shirt: This helps prevent chafing and protects you from the sun. Long-sleeved rashguards offer the best protection.
Swimsuit: Choose a comfortable swimsuit that won’t ride up or fall off while you’re paddling.
Sunscreen: Opt for a reef-safe sunscreen with a high SPF (30 or higher) and apply it liberally to all exposed skin. Reapply every two hours, especially after being in the water.
Hat or Visor: Protect your face and eyes from the sun.
Sunglasses: Wear sunglasses with UV protection, ideally with a strap to keep them from falling off.
Water Bottle: Staying hydrated is crucial, especially in the Hawaiian sun.
Towel: A quick-drying towel is ideal.
Water Shoes (Optional): Helpful if you’re surfing on a reef break or if you have sensitive feet.
Dry Bag: To protect your valuables from water and sand.
Understanding Ocean Conditions and Safety
Ocean safety is paramount. Before you even think about paddling out, take the time to assess the conditions and understand potential hazards. Pay attention to:
Surf Report: Check a reliable surf report like Surf-Forecast.com or Magicseaweed.com to get information on wave height, swell direction, wind conditions, and tide.
Rip Currents: These powerful currents can pull you away from shore. Learn to identify them (look for choppy, discolored water) and know how to escape (swim parallel to the shore until you’re out of the current, then swim back to shore). The United States Lifesaving Association offers excellent resources on rip current safety.
Local Knowledge: Talk to lifeguards, surf instructors, or experienced surfers to get insights into the specific conditions at the beach you’re planning to surf. They can provide valuable information about hazards, currents, and the best spots to paddle out.
Respect the Ocean: The ocean is a powerful force. Never underestimate its strength and always be aware of your surroundings. If you’re unsure about the conditions, don’t go out.
Choosing the Right Equipment
Your surfboard is your most important piece of equipment. As a beginner, you’ll want a board that is stable, easy to paddle, and forgiving. Soft-top boards (foam boards) are ideal for beginners because they are buoyant, relatively inexpensive, and less likely to cause injury.
Surfboard Size and Type for Beginners
Generally, a longer board will be more stable and easier to paddle. Look for a soft-top board that is at least 8 feet long. Some surf schools provide boards as part of the lesson, so check before renting separately. If renting, expect to pay around $20-$40 per day for a soft-top board. Hard-top boards are great, but don’t start with them!
Leashes and Other Accessories
A leash is essential. It attaches your surfboard to your ankle, preventing it from drifting away after you wipe out. Make sure the leash is the correct length for your board (usually about the same length as the board) and in good condition. You might also consider wax to provide traction on the board’s surface. Wax is inexpensive, typically costing around $3-$5 per bar. Apply it evenly to the area where you’ll be standing.
The Fundamentals: Paddling, Popping Up, and Stance
Now for the fun part! Before you attempt to catch a wave, you need to master the basics of paddling, popping up, and your stance.
Paddling Techniques
Paddling is your primary means of propulsion. Lie flat on your board, positioned slightly forward so that the nose of the board is just above the water. Use long, smooth strokes, reaching forward with your arms and pulling the water back towards your hips. Keep your head up and look forward to see where you’re going. Alternate your strokes to maintain balance and avoid veering off course. Practice this on flat water before you attempt to paddle into a wave. A good paddling technique will also conserve energy.
The Pop-Up: From Lying Down to Standing
The pop-up is the transition from lying down to standing on your board. There are several techniques, but a common one is the “two-step pop-up”:
1. Paddle into the wave: As the wave approaches, paddle hard to match its speed.
2. Place your hands: When you feel the wave lifting you, place your hands flat on the board, roughly under your chest.
3. Push up and bring your feet forward: Push up with your arms and simultaneously bring your feet forward, placing them where your hands were. Your feet should be shoulder-width apart and centered on the board.
4. Bend your knees and keep your balance: Bend your knees to lower your center of gravity and maintain your balance. Look forward in the direction you want to go.
Practice the pop-up on land until it becomes second nature. This will give you a head start when you’re in the water.
Finding Your Stance: Regular or Goofy?
Your stance refers to which foot you place forward on the board. “Regular” stance means your left foot forward, while “goofy” stance means your right foot forward. If you’re not sure which stance is natural for you, try this simple test: have someone gently push you from behind. The foot you naturally step forward with to catch yourself is likely your front foot. Experiment in the water to fine-tune your stance.
Catching Your First Wave
This is the moment you’ve been waiting for! Catching your first wave is an exhilarating experience. Start with smaller, gentler waves. As you become more comfortable you can try bigger ones.
Reading the Waves
Learn to read the waves. Look for waves that are starting to break gently, forming a smooth, rolling face. Avoid waves that are already breaking steeply or are too powerful. Position yourself so that you’re paddling parallel to the approaching wave. This will give you time to judge its size and speed.
Timing and Positioning
Timing is everything. Start paddling a few strokes before the wave reaches you to build up momentum. As the wave catches you, paddle hard to match its speed. You should feel the wave lifting you. At this point, execute your pop-up. Don’t hesitate and don’t think to much. Just do it!
Riding the Wave: Basic Maneuvers
Once you’re standing, focus on maintaining your balance and steering. Bend your knees and keep your eyes focused in the direction you want to go. To turn, lean slightly in the direction you want to go, using your body weight to steer the board. Start with small turns and gradually progress to more advanced maneuvers.
Best Beaches for Beginner Surfers in Hawaii
Hawaii offers a variety of beaches that are ideal for beginners. Here are a few of the most popular options:
Waikiki Beach, Oahu
Waikiki is perhaps the most famous surf spot in Hawaii and is perfect for beginners. The waves are gentle and consistent, and there are plenty of surf schools and board rental shops. Canoes and Queens are two popular breaks within Waikiki, known for their soft, rolling waves. Expect crowds, especially during peak season.
Getting There: Waikiki is easily accessible from Honolulu International Airport (HNL). Take a taxi, shuttle, or bus. Public transportation options are available. Parking can be very limited and expensive.
Cost: Surfboard rentals range from $20-$40 per day. Surf lessons start at around $75-$100 for a group lesson.
Kuhio Beach, Oahu
Also located in Waikiki, Kuhio Beach is protected by a seawall, creating a calm, predictable surf break. This makes it an excellent spot for beginners, especially children. The waves are gentle and the water is shallow.
Getting There: Same as Waikiki Beach.
Cost: Similar to Waikiki Beach.
Poipu Beach, Kauai
Poipu Beach on Kauai offers a great learning environment with mellow waves and beautiful scenery. The south shore of Kauai generally has calmer conditions than the north shore, especially during the summer months. Brennecke’s Beach, adjacent to Poipu, is also great for boogie boarding.
Getting There: Fly into Lihue Airport (LIH) and rent a car. Poipu Beach is a short drive from the airport. Parking is available.
Cost: Surfboard rentals and lessons are available in Poipu, with prices comparable to Waikiki.
Lahaina, Maui
Lahaina on Maui’s west side provides gentle waves well-suited for beginners. Several surf schools operate in the area, offering lessons and board rentals. The waves are generally smaller and less powerful than those on Maui’s north shore.
Getting There: Fly into Kahului Airport (OGG) and rent a car. Lahaina is a drive from the airport. Parking may be limited.
Cost: Surfboard rentals and lessons are available in Lahaina with similar prices to other regions.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Learning to surf involves trial and error, but avoiding these common mistakes can speed up your progress:
Not Paddling Hard Enough:
One of the most common mistakes is not paddling hard enough to match the wave’s speed. This will prevent you from catching the wave and can lead to frustration.
Popping Up Too Late: Delaying your pop-up will cause you to lose your balance and fall. Practice your pop-up on land so that you can execute it quickly and efficiently when you’re in the water.
Looking Down: Looking down at the board throws off your balance and makes it harder to steer. Keep your eyes focused in the direction you want to go.
Surfing Waves That Are Too Big: Starting with waves that are too big can be dangerous and discouraging. Begin with smaller, gentler waves and gradually progress to bigger ones as you gain confidence and skill.
Ignoring Ocean Safety: Never underestimate the importance of ocean safety. Be aware of rip currents, check the surf report, and respect the power of the ocean.
Etiquette in the Water
Surfing has its own set of unspoken rules. Following these guidelines will help you avoid conflicts and maintain a positive vibe in the water:
Right of Way:
The surfer closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. Don’t drop in on someone who is already riding the wave.
Don’t Snake: “Snaking” is when you paddle around someone who is positioned closer to the peak and attempt to steal their wave. This is considered very rude.
Paddle Wide: When paddling back out to the lineup, paddle wide around the breaking waves to avoid getting in the way of surfers who are riding them.
Apologize If You Drop In: If you accidentally drop in on someone, apologize immediately. A sincere apology can go a long way in diffusing a potentially tense situation.
Respect the Locals: Be respectful of local surfers and the local culture. They have been surfing these waves for years, so show them the respect they deserve. Don’t be afraid to ask them for advice or tips.
Share the Waves: If you catch a lot of waves, consider giving some to others. Sharing the waves is a sign of good sportsmanship and helps to create a more positive atmosphere in the water.
Progression: From Beginner to Intermediate
Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can start working on more advanced skills. This involves refining your technique, experimenting with different types of boards, and surfing more challenging waves.
Shortboard Transition:
Once you feel comfortable on a longboard, you can begin to experiment with shortboards. Shortboards are more maneuverable but less stable than longboards. Start with a “funboard” (a mid-length board) before transitioning to a shorter board.
Turning Techniques: Once confident stand up, lean and turn, work on refining. There are tons of tutorials online to help, such as those found on SurferToday .
Learning About Ocean Knowledge: The more you know about swells, winds, tides and other ocean conditions, the better you become at taking advantage of what the ocean is offering. There are tons of resources online dedicated to such learning.
FAQ Section
What is the best time of year to learn to surf in Hawaii?
The best time to learn to surf in Hawaii depends on which island you’re visiting. Generally, the south shores of the Hawaiian Islands tend to have calmer conditions during the summer months (May to September), making them ideal for beginners. The north shores are known for their big winter swells, which are best left to experienced surfers. However, even during the winter, there are days when the north shore is calm enough for beginners, especially with the guidance of a qualified instructor.
How long does it take to learn to surf?
There’s no single answer to this question, as it depends on several factors, including your fitness level, coordination, and how often you practice. Some people are able to stand up on their first wave, while others may need several lessons before they feel comfortable. With consistent practice, you can expect to be riding waves on your own within a few weeks or months. A lot depends on weather! So also be patient with it.
Do I need to be a good swimmer to learn to surf?
Yes, it is essential to be a confident swimmer to learn to surf. You should be comfortable swimming in the ocean and able to tread water for a reasonable amount of time. However, you don’t need to be an Olympic swimmer. As long as you can swim comfortably and know how to handle yourself in the water, you can learn to surf safely. That’s why having a surf instructor nearby is very helpful!
Is surfing dangerous?
Surfing can be dangerous if you’re not careful. Like any water sport, you risk drowning. You must also be aware of hazards such as rip currents, rocks, and other surfers. However, with proper instruction, precautions, and respect for the ocean, you can minimize the risks and enjoy a safe surfing experience.
What is reef-safe sunscreen and why should I use it?
Reef-safe sunscreen is sunscreen that does not contain chemicals that are harmful to coral reefs, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate. These chemicals can damage coral DNA, disrupt their growth and reproduction, and contribute to coral bleaching. Using reef-safe sunscreen helps protect these fragile ecosystems and is required by law in some areas of Hawaii. Look for sunscreens labeled “reef-safe” or “mineral-based” that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as the active ingredients.
References
United States Lifesaving Association. Rip Current Safety.
SurferToday. Learn How to Carve a Surfboard.
Surf-Forecast.com Web Service.
Magicseaweed.com Web Service.
Ready to take the plunge? Learning to surf in Hawaii is an unforgettable experience. With the right preparation, instruction, and a healthy dose of stoke, you’ll be riding waves and enjoying the beauty of the Hawaiian Islands. Don’t wait any longer, book that lesson, wax up that board, and get ready to catch the ride of your life! Aloha!
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