He’e Nalu: Surfing’s Ancient Roots and Hawaiian Royal Traditions
In 1779, when British explorer Captain James Cook’s crew first witnessed people riding waves on wooden boards off the coast of Kealakekua Bay, they recorded it as a curious amusement. What they saw was he‘e nalu — a practice far older than any European contact, embedded in Hawaiian society as a spiritual, political, and physical discipline. The word itself translates to “wave sliding,” but the act carried weight that modern surfing, for all its global reach, has largely shed. This article investigates what he‘e nalu meant in pre-contact Hawai‘i, how it was transformed by colonization, and what remains of