Planning your first sailing trip to the British Virgin Islands (BVIs)? Smart move! This archipelago is a sailor’s paradise, offering stunning turquoise waters, consistent trade winds, and sheltered anchorages perfect for beginners. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to make your BVI sailing adventure unforgettable, focusing on specific spots and practical tips.
Choosing Your BVI Base and Charter Company
Your BVI adventure starts with selecting a base. Two main options stand out: Tortola and St. Thomas (US Virgin Islands). While St. Thomas offers more airline options, Tortola puts you right in the heart of the BVIs. If flying into St. Thomas, consider the ferry to Tortola – a scenic way to begin your trip. The ferry from Charlotte Amalie to Road Town, Tortola, typically takes around one hour, operated by companies like Native Son Ferry or Inter Island Boat Services. Booking ahead, especially during peak season, is crucial.
Several charter companies operate in the BVI, offering bareboat (you captain yourself) or crewed charters. Popular choices include The Moorings, Sunsail, and Dream Yacht Charter. For a first-timer, consider a smaller catamaran (around 40-45 feet) – they’re easier to handle and offer plenty of space. Check reviews online and ask for recommendations from experienced sailors. Don’t hesitate to ask the charter company about their recommended itineraries for first-timers. They often have pre-planned routes that showcase the best spots and are manageable for less experienced sailors.
Cost Considerations: Chartering a boat can range from $4,000 to $15,000+ per week, depending on the size, age, and type of boat, and the time of year. December to April is the high season, with correspondingly higher prices. Don’t forget to budget for provisioning (food and drinks), mooring fees (around $30-$50 per night), cruising permits (around $4 per person per day), and fuel. A typical week-long bareboat charter for a family of four could easily cost $7,000-$12,000, excluding flights.
Essential Paperwork and Preparation
Before you set sail, ensure you have all the necessary paperwork. A valid passport is a must. If you plan to operate the boat yourself (bareboat charter), you’ll need proper sailing certifications. Many charter companies require an International Certificate of Competence (ICC) or equivalent. Check with your chosen charter company about their specific requirements well in advance.
Pack light! Space on a sailboat is limited. Bring quick-drying clothes, swimwear, sunscreen (reef-safe is essential!), a hat, sunglasses, and sailing gloves. Water shoes are also a good idea for walking on docks and beaches. Seasickness medication is a must-have, even if you don’t usually get seasick – the BVI waters can sometimes be choppy. Download offline navigation apps like Navionics or iSailor on your tablet or phone. While chartplotters are standard on most charter boats, having a backup is always wise.
Day 1: Setting Sail from Tortola and Norman Island’s Treasure
After checking in and familiarizing yourself with your boat, it’s time to set sail! A good first destination is Norman Island, just a short hop from Tortola. Norman Island is rumored to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Treasure Island,” and it’s easy to see why.
The Caves: This spot is a must-do. Snorkel or dive in the clear waters of the caves, teeming with colorful fish and fascinating rock formations. The caves are marked with mooring balls, so grab one and enjoy the underwater spectacle. Be aware that the caves can get crowded, especially during peak times. Arrive early (before 10 am) or later in the afternoon (after 3 pm) to avoid the crowds.
The Bight: This sheltered anchorage on Norman Island offers calm waters for swimming and relaxing. Willy T’s floating bar, a BVI institution, is located here. However, be mindful that Willy T’s can be lively, and some may find the music and atmosphere boisterous. If you prefer a quieter evening, consider anchoring further away or visiting during the day.
Dinner Tip: Dine aboard your boat tonight. Enjoy your first BVI sunset with a meal you prepared yourself. It’s a great way to unwind after a day of travel and boat familiarization.
Day 2: Jost Van Dyke – White Bay and Soggy Dollar Bar
Day two brings you to Jost Van Dyke, home to the famous White Bay and the Soggy Dollar Bar. The sail from Norman Island to Jost Van Dyke is relatively short and straightforward, perfect for building confidence. The windfinder.com website is a great resource to get the detailed weather forecasts, critical in order to make sound decisions on your overall itinerary.
White Bay: This idyllic beach is the epitome of Caribbean paradise. Anchor offshore (be mindful of the shallow waters) and swim or dinghy ashore. Be prepared for crowds, especially during the day. The sand here is powdery soft, and the water is crystal clear. Grab a “Painkiller” cocktail at the Soggy Dollar Bar – it’s their signature drink!
Soggy Dollar Bar: No trip to the BVI is complete without a visit to this legendary beach bar. The name comes from the fact that patrons used to swim ashore with wet dollar bills to pay for their drinks. Expect a lively atmosphere, delicious cocktails, and stunning views. Be aware that prices can be higher here than at other bars in the BVI.
Great Harbour: For dinner, consider moving your boat to Great Harbour on the other side of Jost Van Dyke. This harbor offers a more sheltered anchorage and several excellent restaurants. Foxy’s Tamarind Bar is a local institution, offering delicious Caribbean cuisine and live music.
Anchoring Tips: Jost Van Dyke can get busy, especially in White Bay. Arrive early to secure a good anchoring spot. Be sure to check your anchor is firmly set before leaving your boat unattended. If you’re unsure about anchoring, consider grabbing a mooring ball (if available) or anchoring further offshore.
Day 3: Sandy Cay and the Beauty of Cane Garden Bay
After the buzz of Jost Van Dyke, head to Sandy Cay, a tiny, uninhabited island owned by Laurance Rockefeller. This gem is perfect for a peaceful escape.
Sandy Cay: This small island is like stepping into a postcard. Palm trees sway in the breeze, and the sand is pristine white. Snorkel in the surrounding reefs, explore the island’s trails, or simply relax on the beach. There are no facilities on the island, so bring everything you need with you, including water and snacks. Remember to take all your trash with you to help keep this paradise clean.
Cane Garden Bay: In the afternoon, sail to Cane Garden Bay, another beautiful bay on Tortola. This bay offers a sheltered anchorage and several beach bars and restaurants.
Myett’s Garden and Grill: This beachfront restaurant offers delicious Caribbean cuisine and live music. It’s a great place to enjoy a sunset dinner. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly, making it a perfect spot for families. Be aware that Myett’s can get crowded, especially on weekends. Consider making a reservation in advance.
Callwood Rum Distillery: If you’re interested in learning about rum production, visit the Callwood Rum Distillery, one of the oldest continuously operating pot distilleries in the Caribbean. However, reviews are mixed. Some visitors find it charming and authentic, while others are disappointed by the limited tour and tasting options. Decide based on your interest in rum and historical sites.
Windward Side Concerns: Be mindful that Cane Garden Bay can be exposed to swells, particularly during certain wind conditions. Check the weather forecast before deciding to anchor here. If the forecast calls for strong winds or northerly swells, consider anchoring in a more sheltered location.
Day 4: Exploring the Baths of Virgin Gorda
No BVI sailing trip is complete without a visit to The Baths on Virgin Gorda. This natural wonder is a must-see.
The Baths: This unique geological formation features giant granite boulders, creating stunning grottos, pools, and tunnels. Explore the Baths by swimming, snorkeling, and hiking through the boulders. Arrive early (before 9 am) to avoid the crowds, as The Baths can get incredibly busy, especially when cruise ships are in port. Pay the entrance fees upon arrival. Wear sturdy water shoes, as the rocks can be slippery. The trail through the Baths can be challenging for those with mobility issues.
Devil’s Bay National Park After exploring The Baths, consider hiking to Devil’s Bay National Park for a quieter beach experience. This beautiful bay is accessible via a short trail from The Baths. The beach is less crowded and offers excellent snorkeling opportunities.
Top of the Baths Restaurant: After your adventures, enjoy a meal with a breathtaking view at the Top of the Baths Restaurant. While the restaurant is on the pricier side, the view is worth it. They serve a variety of dishes, from fresh seafood to burgers.
Mooring Field Madness: Securing a mooring ball at The Baths can be challenging. Arrive very early or be prepared to anchor further away and dinghy in. Be respectful of other boaters and follow the instructions of the park rangers. Remember that anchoring is prohibited in certain areas. Listen to the radio chatter by other boats to understand availability and options.
Day 5: Anegada – Lobster and Tranquility
Day five takes you to Anegada, the only coral island in the BVI. Anegada offers a different experience from the other islands – it’s flat, less crowded, and known for its pristine beaches and delicious lobster.
The Passage: The sail to Anegada is longer and requires careful navigation due to the surrounding reefs. Consider hiring a local pilot to guide you into the anchorage, especially if you’re not comfortable navigating shallow waters. However, the NOAA charts are very detailed, updated on schedule and readily available.
Loblolly Bay: This stunning beach on Anegada’s north shore is a must-visit. Relax on the white sand, swim in the crystal-clear water, and enjoy the peace and quiet. The snorkeling here is also excellent. Cow Wreck Beach Bar is located on Loblolly Bay.
Anegada Reef Hotel: Enjoy a delicious lobster dinner at the Anegada Reef Hotel. Anegada is famous for its lobster, and this hotel serves some of the best on the island. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak season. You can order it grilled, steamed, or in a variety of other preparations.
Navigation Considerations: Navigation around Anegada requires extreme caution. Local knowledge is invaluable. Consider using a GPS chartplotter with up-to-date charts and a depth sounder. Be aware of the currents and tides. The area is often described as a bit of a nautical “obstacle course,” so be ready to test your focus and skills.
Day 6: Guana Island and Marina Cay: Seclusion and Sunset Views
After the remote beauty of Anegada, head back towards Tortola and explore Guana Island and Marina Cay.
Guana Island: Only explore if you manage to secure prior permission to visit! Guana Island is a private island reserve focusing to conserve nature with limited day visitors allowed. If you are lucky enough to be allowed, take some time to enjoy wonderful beaches and trails. Strict rules apply, adhere to them.
Marina Cay: This tiny island is home to a Pusser’s Rum Company store and restaurant. Climb to the top of the island for panoramic views of the surrounding islands. Enjoy a Pusser’s Painkiller cocktail while watching the sunset. The food at the restaurant is decent, but the views are the main attraction. Some find the experience a little too “touristy” but the views are undeniable.
Diving Opportunities: The waters near Marina Cay offer excellent diving opportunities. Several dive sites are located nearby, including the Chikuzen wreck, a popular spot for advanced divers.
Day 7: Back to Base and Fond Farewells
On your final day, sail back to your charter base in Tortola. Allow plenty of time for refueling, cleaning, and checking out. Reflect on your incredible BVI sailing adventure and start planning your next trip! Take inventory the night prior as to make sure that you account for everything that came with the charter in order to avoid any unwelcome charges.
Important Considerations for BVI Sailing
Weather: The BVI enjoys a tropical climate with consistent trade winds. The best time to sail is during the dry season (December to April), when the weather is sunny and the humidity is low. However, the BVI is also prone to hurricanes during the hurricane season (June to November). Check the weather forecast regularly and be prepared to adjust your itinerary if necessary.
Provisioning: You can provision your boat in Tortola at supermarkets like Riteway or Bobby’s Marketplace. Consider pre-ordering your groceries online and having them delivered to your boat. This will save you time and hassle. Some islands, like Virgin Gorda and Jost Van Dyke, also have smaller grocery stores, but the selection may be limited.
Water Conservation: Water is precious in the BVI. Conserve water by taking short showers, using sparingly while washing dishes, and repairing any leaks promptly.
Respect the Environment: Help protect the BVI’s pristine environment by using reef-safe sunscreen, avoiding single-use plastics, and properly disposing of waste. Never anchor on coral reefs.
Cruising Permits and Fees: The BVI National Parks Trust enforces permit requirements as of July 1, 2024 with the introduction of a user-friendly online platform. These fees help preserve the islands’ natural beauty.
FAQ Section
What sailing experience do I need to bareboat charter in the BVI?
Charter requirements vary by company but generally, you will require an ICC or RYA Day Skipper certificate. You will also need to provide a sailing resume outlining your experience and qualifications. Some companies may require a practical checkout sail with one of their instructors before you are allowed to take the boat out on your own. Be honest about your experience – it’s better to err on the side of caution.
What is the best time of year to sail in the BVI?
The best time is from December to April, during the dry season. The weather is sunny, the humidity is low, and the trade winds are consistent. However, this is also the peak season, so expect higher prices and more crowds.
How much does it cost to charter a boat in the BVI?
The cost varies depending on the size and type of boat, the time of year, and the duration of the charter. Generally, you can expect to pay between $4,000 and $15,000+ per week for a bareboat charter.
Do I need to tip the crew on a crewed charter?
Yes, it is customary to tip the crew on a crewed charter. A typical tip is 15-20% of the charter fee. Check with your charter company about their specific tipping recommendations.
What should I pack for a BVI sailing trip?
Pack light, quick-drying clothes, swimwear, sunscreen (reef-safe), a hat, sunglasses, sailing gloves, water shoes, and seasickness medication. Don’t forget your passport and sailing certifications.
Is it safe to drink the water in the BVI?
It’s generally not recommended to drink the tap water in the BVI. Most charter boats provide bottled water, or you can purchase it at local supermarkets. Be sure to fill your water tanks carefully when provisioning the boat, and follow the instructions about the quality of the water from the charter company.
References
Windfinder
NOAA Charts
BVI National Parks Trust
Ready to set sail on the adventure of a lifetime? The British Virgin Islands await, promising unforgettable moments and breathtaking scenery. Don’t delay – start planning your BVI sailing trip today! Contact your charter company, book your flights, and prepare for an experience you’ll cherish forever. Fair winds and following seas!
Explore Places to Stay in BVI
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