Jost Van Dyke is more than just the home of the legendary Soggy Dollar Bar. While painkillers and chilling on White Bay are certainly highlights, this tiny island packs a punch of authentic Caribbean charm, hidden adventures, and local experiences that most tourists miss. Forget the typical brochure – I’m giving you the inside scoop, a local’s guide to truly experiencing Jost Van Dyke, beyond the beach.
Exploring Great Harbour: The Heart of JVD
Most people arrive in Jost Van Dyke at Great Harbour, and it’s worth spending some time exploring. Beyond being the main entry point, it’s also a hub of activity, especially in the evenings. You’ll find several restaurants, bars, and shops lining the harbor. One of my favorite spots is Corsairs Beach Bar & Restaurant. This place is legendary, known for its potent rum punches and lively atmosphere. Keep an eye out for their nightly specials – they often have live music or themed nights. The prices are reasonable for the BVI, with entrees averaging around $20-$35. To get there, simply walk along the main road that hugs the harbor; you can’t miss it! Another good option for a laid-back lunch is Foxy’s Tamarind Bar, well-known for its Sunday BBQ and relaxed vibe. Foxy’s holds a special place in BVI culture.
Don’t just stick to the main drag, though. Take a wander further into the ‘town’. You’ll find local shops selling handmade crafts, and you can often get a glimpse into the daily life of Jost Van Dyke residents. Look for Miss Hazel’s place for excellent patties and local treats. While you’re walking around Great Harbour, keep an eye out for the local boat builders. They still construct wooden boats in the traditional way using techniques passed down through generations. This is a truly authentic BVI experience and demonstrates the island’s rich maritime heritage.
If you arrive late in the day, check in with your accommodation and quickly explore this area while getting some dinner. This will give you a solid starting point for exploring the rest of the island.
White Bay: Beyond the Soggy Dollar
Okay, let’s address the elephant in the room: the Soggy Dollar Bar on White Bay. Yes, it’s a must-do. Ordering a Painkiller cocktail (invented here, by the way!) while waist-deep in the turquoise water is practically a rite of passage. However, White Bay has so much more to offer than just one bar, no matter famous it is. The Soggy Dollar Bar boasts that they sell over 2 million Painkillers each year, and its fame and history date back to the 1970s.
First, walk. Don’t just stay planted in front of the Soggy Dollar. Explore the entire length of White Bay. Each bar has its own personality and slightly different vibe. Hendo’s Hideout offers a more upscale dining experience with delicious seafood. Ivan’s Stress Free Bar is known for its rustic charm and laid-back atmosphere, with campsites available, and Gertrude’s Beach Bar offers a more local feel. One Love Bar & Grill, easily identified by its brightly painted exterior, offers beach games, a family-friendly vibe and great Caribbean food. Each bar offers its interpretation of the Painkiller, so it’s worth trying a few to find your favorite.
Second, go early or late. White Bay gets incredibly crowded during the day, especially when cruise ships are in port. Arrive before 10 am or after 4 pm to experience the beach with fewer crowds. Sunsets on White Bay are spectacular, so sticking around for the evening is a fantastic idea. You will find that the tone completely changes from what is it like in the day time. It is quieter, calmer and more romantic.
Third, take a hike. At the eastern end of White Bay, you’ll find a trail that leads to Sandy Cay, a small, uninhabited island. The hike is relatively easy and offers stunning views of White Bay and the surrounding islands. Alternatively, you could charter a small boat to take you there. Sandy Cay is perfect for snorkeling and swimming, and it’s a great place to escape the crowds.
Keep in mind that White Bay can get rough when the weather changes. Pay attention to the lifeguard warnings and exercise caution when swimming. The current can be surprisingly strong.
Little Harbour: A Taste of Old JVD
If you are looking for a more secluded and authentic experience, head to Little Harbour. This quiet bay is home to just a few family-run restaurants and bars, offering a glimpse into old Jost Van Dyke. You can reach Little Harbour by car (rental jeep recommended due to the steep hills) or by boat. Many water taxis offer service between Great Harbour and Little Harbour. Prices vary, but expect to pay around $10-$15 per person each way.
Harris’ Place is a must-visit in Little Harbour. Harris himself is a local legend, and his restaurant is known for its delicious lobster and friendly atmosphere. Call ahead to reserve your lobster (essential!) because they sell out quickly. The prices are reasonable, and the experience is unforgettable. Another popular spot is Abe’s By The Sea, offering everything from lunch & dinners to drinks and parties on specific days (including Lobster Fungi Night on Wednesday). If you’re looking for a tranquil escape, consider staying overnight at one of the small guesthouses in Little Harbour. Little Harbour has several mooring balls if you arrive by boat, or anchor off the beach and dinghy in to shore.
Little Harbour is perfect for a leisurely lunch, a quiet swim, or simply relaxing and soaking up the Caribbean atmosphere. It’s a world away from the hustle and bustle of White Bay, and it’s a wonderful place to connect with the local culture.
Diamond Cay: Exploring the Bubbly Pool
Diamond Cay, located on the eastern end of Jost Van Dyke, is another gem worth exploring. It’s accessible by boat or by hiking from the eastern end of Great Harbour. The main attraction here is the Bubbly Pool, a natural jacuzzi formed by waves crashing over the rocks. The water is often fizzy and bubbly, hence the name.
The hike to the Bubbly Pool is moderate, taking about 30-45 minutes from the eastern edge of Great Harbour. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water, as the trail can be rocky and uneven. Alternatively, take a boat or dinghy to the harbor on the north side of Diamond Cay and walk across the island to get to the Bubbly Pool. The pool itself can be dangerous during rough seas, so check the conditions before you go. If the waves are too high, it’s best to admire it from a distance. When it is safe, the Bubbly Pool is an incredible experience, offering a unique and memorable way to cool off.
After your swim in the Bubbly Pool, grab a drink or a bite to eat at the Foxy’s Taboo restaurant and bar on Diamond Cay. It’s a sister location to the main Foxy’s in Great Harbour. Here you can kick back, enjoy the fantastic view, and relax. This is also a great location to get a little more shade than on White Bay, since there are many larger trees.
Sandy Ground: A Quieter Beach Escape
Located on the southern side of Jost Van Dyke, Sandy Ground is a quiet beach offering calm waters and picturesque scenery. It’s a great option if you’re looking to escape the crowds of White Bay but still want a beautiful beach experience. The main bar and restaurant on Sandy Ground is called Coco Loco. Walk along the beach and enjoy the views of the neighboring islands. Due to its location, Sandy Ground offers amazing sunsets. The waters here are typically very calm, making it an excellent swimming beach for children.
Sandy Ground is accessible by car or taxi from Great Harbour, but the road is unpaved and winds inland a little, so allow approximately 30 minutes reach there. Many people stop at Sandy Ground on their way to or from Little Harbour and the east end of the island.
Snorkeling and Diving Around Jost Van Dyke
The waters around Jost Van Dyke are teeming with marine life, making it a fantastic destination for snorkeling and diving. Several dive operators are based in Great Harbour, offering trips to nearby reefs and wrecks. If you are PADI certified, then you can experience some truly world-class diving nearby. One of the most popular dive sites around is the Wreck of the Willie Thornton, a sunken freighter that attracts a variety of fish and coral. Another great option is Diamond Rock, known for its vibrant coral gardens and abundant marine life. Several companies like Kilbrides Sunchaser Scuba offer trips to these sites.
If you prefer snorkeling, there are plenty of options closer to shore. Sandy Cay offers excellent snorkeling opportunities, with clear water and colorful fish. White Bay also has some decent snorkeling spots, especially around the rocky points at either end of the beach. You can bring your own snorkeling gear or rent it from one of the shops in Great Harbour. The visibility is generally very good, and you can expect to see a variety of fish, coral, and other marine creatures.
Always check the weather conditions before you go snorkeling or diving, and be aware of any currents. Also, be mindful of the coral, since it takes many years to form. Avoid touching or stepping on the coral. Wear reef-safe sunscreen to protect the delicate marine environment. To determine whether your existing sunscreen is reef-safe, look for products which are “non-nano” and “mineral” ones containing zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
Hiking and Exploring Inland
While Jost Van Dyke is known for its beaches and bars, it also offers some great opportunities for hiking and exploring inland. Several trails crisscross the island, offering stunning views and access to secluded beaches and bays.
One of the most popular hikes is the trail to the Bubbly Pool, as mentioned earlier. Another great option is the hike to the top of Jost Van Dyke Peak, the highest point on the island. The trail is steep in places, but the panoramic views from the top are well worth the effort. You can see virtually all of the British Virgin Islands on a clear day from Jost Van Dyke Peak. To find the trailhead, ask a local to point you in the right direction. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and bring plenty of water, as the hike can be strenuous.
As you explore the island, keep an eye out for the local wildlife. Jost Van Dyke is home to a variety of birds, lizards, and other creatures. You might even spot a wild donkey or two. It’s a great way to experience the natural beauty of the island and get away from the crowds, just don’t wander onto someone’s property. Much of the island interior is privately owned.
Getting Around Jost Van Dyke
Jost Van Dyke is a small island, but getting around can be a bit tricky. There are no taxis or public transportation, so you’ll need to rely on other options.
Walking: The main areas of Great Harbour and White Bay are easily walkable. This is the best way to explore these areas and soak up the atmosphere.
Car Rental: Renting a jeep is a good option if you want to explore the entire island at your own pace. Several rental agencies are based in Great Harbour. Keep in mind that the roads are unpaved and can be steep and bumpy in places, so a 4×4 vehicle is recommended. Expect to pay around $75-$100 per day for a jeep rental.
Water Taxi: Water taxis are a convenient way to get between Great Harbour, White Bay, Little Harbour, and other locations around the island. You can usually find water taxis waiting in Great Harbour, or you can ask your hotel or guesthouse to arrange one for you. Prices vary depending on the distance, but expect to pay around $10-$15 per person each way.
Hitchhiking: Hitchhiking is common on Jost Van Dyke, and it’s a great way to meet locals and get around on a budget. Just stick out your thumb and wait for someone to stop. However, use your common sense and only hitchhike with people you feel comfortable with.
Where to Stay on Jost Van Dyke
Jost Van Dyke offers a variety of accommodation options, from luxury villas to budget-friendly guesthouses. The majority of accommodations are located in Great Harbour and White Bay, but you can also find some options in Little Harbour and other areas around the island.
Luxury Villas: If you’re looking for a luxurious experience, consider renting a villa on Jost Van Dyke. Several villas offer stunning views, private pools, and all the amenities you could ask for. Expect to pay upwards of $500 per night for a luxury villa.
Guesthouses: Guesthouses are a more affordable option, offering simple but comfortable accommodations. Many guesthouses are family-run and offer a more personal experience. Expect to pay around $100-$200 per night for a guesthouse room.
Hotels: The Sandcastle Hotel on White Bay is an excellent boutique option. Similarly, the Ocean View Villa, Guest House & Apartment Rentals also offers excellent value and well appointed rooms.
Camping: If you’re on a tight budget, consider camping on Jost Van Dyke. Ivan’s Stress Free Bar on White Bay offers campsites for a reasonable price. Camping is a great way to experience the natural beauty of the island and save money on accommodation.
It’s best to book your accommodation in advance, especially during peak season (December to April). Jost Van Dyke is a popular destination, and the best places tend to fill up quickly.
Eating Like a Local: Must-Try Foods on Jost Van Dyke
No trip to Jost Van Dyke is complete without trying some of the local cuisine. The island offers a variety of delicious dishes, from fresh seafood to hearty stews.
Lobster: Lobster is a must-try on Jost Van Dyke. Many restaurants serve fresh lobster, grilled, steamed, or prepared in a variety of other ways. Be sure to try Harris’ Place in Little Harbour.
Conch Fritters: Conch fritters are a popular snack in the BVI, and Jost Van Dyke is no exception. These crispy, savory fritters are made with conch meat, vegetables, and spices. Find these at most restaurants and bars.
Fungi: Fungi (pronounced “foon-jee”) is a traditional Caribbean dish made with cornmeal and okra. It’s often served as a side dish with fish or meat. It’s also the dish element of the popular BVI weekend dinner of Fish and Fungi.
Rotis: Rotis are a type of flatbread filled with curried meat or vegetables. They’re a popular lunch option in the BVI and are both filling and flavorful.
Fresh Fish: Given it is an island, fresh fish is nearly certain to be a good dinner choice. Ask the waiter about the “catch of the day” at your restaurant of choice.
Johnny Cakes: These delectable little breads are usually served as a breakfast item. They are small, round and fried. They are traditionally served with butter, jam or cheese and are great with coffee or tea. Look for these at local bakeries.
Don’t be afraid to venture beyond the tourist restaurants and try some of the local eateries on Jost Van Dyke. You’ll often find the best food at the most unassuming places.
Essential Tips for Visiting Jost Van Dyke
Here are a few essential tips to help you make the most of your trip to Jost Van Dyke:
Bring Cash: Many businesses on Jost Van Dyke do not accept credit cards, so it’s essential to bring cash. US dollars are widely accepted. You should also have a sufficient amount of small bills available.
Pack Light: You won’t need a lot of clothes on Jost Van Dyke. Pack light, comfortable clothing, swimwear, and sunscreen.
Bring Bug Spray: Mosquitoes and other insects can be a nuisance on Jost Van Dyke, especially in the evenings. Be sure to bring bug spray to protect yourself.
Respect the Local Culture: Jost Van Dyke is a small, close-knit community. Be respectful of the local culture and traditions. Don’t be afraid to say hello and strike up conversations with the locals. They’re usually happy to share their knowledge of the island.
Learn a Few Phrases: While all islanders speak English, learning a few basic phrases in the local dialect can go a long way. A simple “good morning” or “thank you” in the local dialect will be appreciated.
Slow Down: Jost Van Dyke is a place to relax and unwind. Slow down, take your time, and enjoy the laid-back pace of life. The “island time” is a real thing. Embrace it!
By following these tips, you’ll be well-prepared for your trip to Jost Van Dyke and can look forward to a truly unforgettable experience.
FAQ Section
What is the best time to visit Jost Van Dyke?
The best time to visit Jost Van Dyke is during the dry season, which runs from December to April. The weather is generally sunny and dry during this time, with temperatures in the mid-80s. However, this is also the peak season, so expect higher prices and more crowds. The shoulder seasons (May-June and September-November) can also be a good time to visit, with fewer crowds and lower prices. The hurricane season runs from June to November, so be sure to check the weather forecast before you go.
How do I get to Jost Van Dyke?
The easiest way to get to Jost Van Dyke is to fly into Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS) on Beef Island, Tortola. From there, you can take a ferry to Jost Van Dyke. Several ferry companies offer service between Tortola and Jost Van Dyke, including New Horizon Ferry and Inter Island Boat Services. The ferry ride takes about 30-45 minutes. Alternatively, you can take a private water taxi from Tortola to Jost Van Dyke; it is a faster though usually more expensive way to travel.
Is Jost Van Dyke safe?
Jost Van Dyke is generally a safe island to visit. However, as with any travel destination, it’s important to take precautions to protect yourself from theft and other crimes. Be aware of your surroundings, don’t leave your belongings unattended, and avoid walking alone at night in poorly lit areas. Overall, Jost Van Dyke is a friendly and welcoming island, and you should feel safe and comfortable during your visit.
What should I pack for Jost Van Dyke?
When packing for Jost Van Dyke, remember to bring light, comfortable clothing, swimwear, sunscreen, and bug spray. You’ll also want to bring cash, a hat, sunglasses, and comfortable walking shoes. If you plan on snorkeling or diving, you can bring your own gear or rent it on the island. A waterproof bag or case for your phone and camera will also come in handy.
Are there ATMs on Jost Van Dyke?
No, there are no ATMs on Jost Van Dyke. Be sure to bring enough cash to cover your expenses while you’re on the island.
Is there internet access on Jost Van Dyke?
Yes, many hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants on Jost Van Dyke offer Wi-Fi access. However, the internet connection can be slow and unreliable, especially during peak season. If you need a reliable internet connection, consider purchasing a local SIM card or using a mobile hotspot.
References
- Soggy Dollar Bar Official Website
- British Virgin Islands Tourism Board
- Scuba diving certification from PADI.
- New Horizon Ferry timetable
- Inter Island Boat Services timetable
Ready to ditch the ordinary and dive into the real Jost Van Dyke? Don’t just visit, experience. Book that flight, pack your bags, and prepare for an adventure that goes way beyond the Soggy Dollar. The warmth of the people, the untouched beauty, and the genuine island spirit are waiting. What are you waiting for? Start planning your Jost Van Dyke escape today!
